The dealer had the same problem when I was having mine replaced -- at least one arrived all bent up.
Once you take the trim off -- is it reusable? I'd be interested in your old driver's side rear if you'd be willing to part with it (if it comes off without bending of course). That's the only one the dealer did not replace for me and unfortunately, also the only one someone with an SUV put a slight dent in.
It's very rare that I see other M's in the same parking lot as me. Yesterday I went to Sports Authority and there were 2, a 99 or 00 Deep Slate and a brand new Steel Blue '02 across from each other. I parked next to the steel blue. A few minutes later I looked out the window and someone had parked a white 01 on the other side of me -- so there were 4, possibly one from each model year. I was in the store for awhile and they were all there when I left. Never saw any of the owners (sorry I didn't have any club wiper cards on me). I suspect they were parking there for soccer games taking place across the street. It was kinda neat seeing them all there. No mods at all (including tinted windows) on the other 3. Not even Zaino shine (my M even outshined the new one!).
Don't you feel naked without a supply of wiper cards? I've got some in my visor and I carry some in with my business cards. I think you can pretty much tell, by just looking at the car, who should have one and who is not interested in the club. Dirty chrome wheels is a tipoff to me. I mean real dirty. You can tell if they like/love their M just by looking at it. Clean M, mods, out of the way parking space gets card. Sometimes I lurk around until they return to check 'em out. It's called profiling nowadays. One of these days somebody will call the cops on me.LOL Rick/Geezer300M
Well, those that don't read our club board might have missed the scare I had this weekend. I did a simple thing like change my diff and tranny fluid and car drove fine. The next day, limp-in mode, stuck in 2nd gear. Determined to fix myself, I bought new replacements for those high failure rate speed sensors many have complained about and put them in. In 30 mins I was done and back to normal. I pulled the TCM fuse during the job to clear the trouble code in the TCM. If you change your own oil, you can change these sensors. My failure was the input sensor, as the speedo was still working while I was stuck in 2nd gear. I changed both for preventative reasons and hoping it would fix the car.
Hey, check this one out! It's a Platinum & Agate 99' with PHP, the upgraded stereo, and maybe something else. Mileage? Only 8,951 miles!! I'm guessing it may have been an older lady's Sunday church car or something.
Thanks to Roger, I installed the side markers this afternoon. It took me longer than usual but the job is done. I put the 300M decals on the black plastic piece by the rear passenger door windows. I think it looks great there. A word of caution, don't try using a belt sander to remove any rough edges. I will need to replace one of my decals, and I have no idea what they cost.
Thank's again Roger for the markers and both you and Scotian deserve accolades for the directions. They work great!!!!!!
Glennbp, no pics, sorry. The sensors are on the drivers side of the tranny. They require a 1" socket to remove and have an electrical connector with two wires. The input sensor is the one closest to the front, while the output sensor is maybe 6 inches further back. Look just above where the cooling lines connect on the side. There's just enough room to get your hand in there between the exhaust cat converter and the cooling line. I used a screwdriver to assist with the clip on the electrical connector, then a 1" socket with extentions on a 1/2" rachet to remove the sensor. It's in snug, not overtight, as the sensors have an o-ring seal. They are above the fluid level so no fluid drains out when removed.
I use a 6" grinder to remove the rear flange, it does a fast job, and the curveature of the wheel makes sure only the flange is ground down. Although one slip and be dangerous.
contrary to what some believe I think it turned out very well. It's not obnoxious at all. Now my BIKE CARRIER is obnoxious. lol. Here's the link if you didn't get there already:
Thx for the info on the blinking lights problem. I don't know if the headlights blink, as it hasn't happened at night yet. I do know that the dashboard LED and trip computer readout lights blink. Based on that I'm inclined to think it may be the 2nd item you mentioned (the body control module) rather than the headlight switch. But I'm just guessing when it comes to these electrical gremblins. Anyway, thx again.
did you have to raise the car to get to the sensors?
sounds like a fairly easy repair---probably a good idea to at keep one on hand if you're traveling any distance---is one more prone than the other to fail?
$17? I got ripped for $23.35 each. This is why I wanted to fix this and not let the dealer do it. Maybe I'll order one from oem-car-parts to have as a spare for the road trips, plus in case my mom's Concorde decides to fail.
Yeah you need to get under the car, from the front, to change the sensors. I drove the car on Rhino ramps. You can get them at K-mart/Walmart/Advance Auto. The repair is easy, just a little tight space to work in.
From what I read, it's the input speed sensor that fails more often. The Intrepid board was pretty unanimous on that from all the posts.
I would very much assume it was, as all 99' PHP cars came with the silver 16" Medallion wheels and it says it has Michelins "with a lot of tread left", probably the original Pilots.
Like I said, probably an old lady's Sunday church car. You know what's weird to me? Around here(southern Delaware) there are M's everywhere. Usually, if it's a 99' or 00', you can tell if it's a PHP or not (wheels & tires). Mostly, you see people in their 50's to 70's driving them. But, there are even more younger M drivers. And, as usual, most of the M's are non-PHP. I've found it quite odd that the "older" M'rs I tend to see are driving PHP-equipped cars, with the younger buyers having the soft M's.
You'd think it be the opposite, but it isn't. There's one I see sometimes driven by a guy in his mid 70's, that's a 00' Champagne on Camel w/PHP and the chrome Medallions. Another one I see quite often is a lady who appears to be in her 80's who has a 99' Stone White on Camel PHP M with a sunroof, usually with it open. She's always driving, her husband sitting comfortably in the passenger's seat. Of course, there are still more "soft" M owners, like our one neighbor (absolutely beautiful & immaculate 00' Lt. Cypress over Pearl Beige 00' non-PHP).
I could have sworn I saw Christine II sitting at a dealer in Pocomoke, VA 2 weeks ago when we were heading to Nags Head on vacation (had a great time, by the way). It was at a Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Dodge, Chrysler dealer, in with the used cars. The way I noticed it was that it was being "showcased", with it parked on one of those steep ramps out front of a dealer. Sparkling, freshly detailed look, Deep Slate, Chrome Razorstars, and what I could have sworn was chrome exhaust tips. That's what stuck out to me, as we had the only 00' I've ever seen with the 01'-02' exhaust system and chrome-tipped muffler (new, after the accident).
Coming back a week later, I didn't see it, but am still tempted to contact the dealer, just to be "curious".
Oh yeah, so far, I've only seen one Special around here or anywhere. Sitting in the dentists' a few months ago, I watched it pass by and stop at a red light. It was silver, I've never seen any of the other colors in person yet (except on other M's, Intrepids, Concordes, etc.).
I just got back from our local Valvoline oil change place and they had 3 different oil types to choose from. Regular oil, Synthetic oil, or Dura Blend oil (part real part synthetic). The guy there recommended the Dura Blend oil since my 300M only has 52,000 miles on it. He said the full synthetic oil is best for cars with high mileage. Since the full synthetic is $49.99 and the Dura Blend is $36.99 he's obviously not trying to scam me into a higher priced product.
Since I change my oil every 3000 to 4000 miles, I figure the Dura Blend is fine. Any thoughts?
The big advantage in synthetic oils is their ability not to break down with heat and time like petroleum based oils. If you are going to change oil every 3000 miles, and assuming you're not running at redline 90% of the time or off road racing, you could probably use baby oil and not have a problem (OK, I'm being facetious); but seriously, synthetics and to a slightly lesser extent, synthetic blends will provide superior lubrication over a much longer period of time. I have used Amsoil synthetic in 6 cars, old and new, for the past 10 years or so and I only change oil once per year (about every 12,000 miles) and have never had an oil related problem in any of my cars. Incidentally, Amsoil recommends oil changes yearly or every 25,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Well, mine did it yesterday morning (very early-still dark), but it was more going full bright, then back to normal. I had the body control module replaced about two months ago for an unrelated problem (although the "light show" made a very intermittent appearance before the change out). So...is the problem the light switch, dimmer, or the recycled BCM? I don't want to spend anymore time hoping they can fix it without breaking something else, so I will not do anything unless the problem become cronic.
I really believe you will solve the problem if you replace the headlight switch. I had the same problem, the dealer said he was sure it was the switch, that's what he replaced, it has worked perfectly ever since.
He explained that the switch had an intermittent open circuit which gives the BCM confusing signals as to the status of the headlights being on or off. When the circuit opens the BCM thinks the headlights are OFF and sets the panel lights to bright, when the circuit closes the BCM thinks the headlights are ON and sets the panel lights to dim. Since this is an intermittent condition, the effect is the light show.
They offer 2 different styles for the 300M. I got one for my LHS and it looks great....color match (I had them paint it) is perfect. There were just 2 minor problems:
1) the spoiler didn't come with cool custom cut-out gaskets as featured in sdmike's install photos. SpoilerDepot ships the spoiler with strips of foam-rubber (I swear it looks just like storm door weather striping!) that you are supposed to cut and self stick to the outer edges of the spoiler pillars. I'm always concerned about water leaks so I just got some rubber gasket material and cut out my own custom gaskets, and then siliconed the sh-t out of the bolts!
2) my spoiler has an LED brake-light strip. There were no instructions as to the wire hook-up and their web-site has just "generic" wiring instructions. Following the web-site directions I tapped into the turn-signal circuit, but this was easily corrected. Didn't even use a VOM....just tried tapping an adjacent wire and it worked fine.
Bottom line: Paint is important. I can't paint myself. But I can make gaskets and and wire a simple circuit by trial and error. That's why I recommend Spoiler Depot, despite the problems. Plus they shipped on-time.
Glenbp, thanks for the reassurance on the oil. I'll stick with Dura Blend and if I accidentally go beyond 3 or 4 thousand oil change, I'll know it's not that big of a deal.
Toms99, thanks for the link for the wing. I actually decided to have the guy who's gonna install it get one from Chrysler. He works at a Ford dealer in the autobody department but can get wings for any car. He actually gets and paints many wings for the retail outlet Eastern Offroad so I'm confident he'll paint mine right. Especially since he saw my car over the weekend.
As for California Dream, they're gonna just send me my check back (since I paid COD) and they're gonna send the UPS guy to pick up their wing to return it. So the only thing I lost on the deal was time. At least I got that going for me
Just got back from a long (3300 miles) road trip (Denver to Sun Valley to San Francisco to Las Vegas to Denver). M performed flawlessly, but killed a LOT of bugs up front. It will take a fair amount of time tomorrow to clean it, methinks.
I won't lump all California drivers into this mini-rant, but it sure happened much more there than anywhere else: drivers just cruising in the left lane, utterly oblivious to faster cars coming up behind them (or just not giving a damn), often forming rolling roadblocks as they took their sweet time to pass another car at about two tenths of a mile-per-hour faster. I-5 south from the Bay Area was horrible (the right lane was consistently the passing lane for the faster cars, whenever there was a decent gap between cars in that lane), and I-15 to Las Vegas was also bad, even thought the traffic was lighter. I think many drivers have decided that if they aren't the absolute slowest vehicle on the road, it's easier (saves lane changes) to just stay in the left lane. Grrrrrr!
Doubt that I'll go back and plow through two weeks of posts. Nice flag shot, though, sdmike!
I change the filter twice a year. If you use an Amsoil or K&N Gold filter, this is well within their recommended limits. These filters cost a few bucks more, but they have anti-backwash valves and extended filtering capacity. I believe they recommend changes at 7500 miles unless you drive in very dirty or dusty conditions routinely.
glad you had a safe trip. The driving experience you had isn't uncommon...it's called "being too lazy to take off cruise control when you're passing at 1mph faster than the other car". Down here you get your butt run over.
Kosh, I change once a year too with Amsoil. Come on, get on the bandwagon, save some money and time. Use the best products and stay within the mileage limits or the 1 year timeframe. You can use a bypass filter system too and really save some wear on your engine. I have that on my 94 Dodge Ram, but finding a place to put that on the M is near impossible, so I haven't bothered.
The Amsoil oil filters are rated for 12,500 miles, so if you actually did 25,000 in one year, you would change oil filter twice a year. I've done this for many years. Right now, I seem to be only putting about 10-12K a year on my car, so I just change it all once a year, usually in the Spring. I do all the family's fleet in the same weekend, once each year.
Was cruising the Lorinser site [they of the $$$$ ground effects, etc. ] on the web and saw that they had some company cars for sale. One was the platinum M with all the Lorinser add-ons. No mileage [on request] but a price of about 47,000 Euros. I checked the conversion rate figuring that it might be a good deal, and that's when I learned that the conversion is about $46,000. It had all their bells, whistles, and ground effects, but that was a little steep. Course it is probably still in Germany too. I have been toying with adding a Lorinser roof wing, but they are pricey and not sure they come in factory colors, so additional painting may be involved on top of a $400+ price for the wing. Just dreamin.
I'll have to check this out further. I have to be cautious because of where I live. The temperature extremes promote condensation in the block in winter especially on short trips where the engine doesn't get fully warmed up. But the synthetic would make winter ops easier on the engine.
I've been patiently waiting for a dry sump system where you replace a single cartridge that contains both the oil and filter. No mess, no fuss, and it takes 5 minutes to do - pull out, plug in.
as long as you realize you void any factory or extended warranty ---the A schedule I believe calls for every 7K mile oil change--the B schedule is every 3K miles which would apply to most vehicles I believe---If you had any engine problems you would have a tough time getting coverage---
Is your oil black when you change it once a year?--I would be more inclined to look at the color of the oil to determine whether a change is due. But I use regular oil at the moment and try to change it between 3K and 4K. I did once go as much as 6K between change using regular oil but dont like going that long. That alone would probably void warranty coverage as I live in the Northeast and therefore schedule B would probably apply. If you just once go over the recommended oil change interval , they could deny warranty coverage for engine failure. I may not purchase any extended warranty due to the fact that I already went over that interval at least once. I have 37K on my yr 2000 M.
Well, well, well. And things were going so nicely!
62k miles, perfect record, full dealer 60k service 1,000 miles ago. Driving along at 50 mph, it suddenly turned on all the dash lights and killed the engine. Drifted to a stop, not running.
Will crank, with dash lights all on, but only "pops" about every third revolution (consistently.)
New PCM and new fuel pump made no difference. Still won't start. Dealer is baffled.
OK folks, let's dispel some old myths and wives tales about engine oil. 1. Engine component failures attributed to lubrication qualities are exceedingly rare; even more rare during new car warranty periods. (This is, of course, unless you run your engine with very low or no oil at all!) 2. No warranty can be voided by following the OIL MFG recommendations for change intervals, filter requirements, etc. provided the oil meets or exceeds the vehicle mfgs. requirements, ie AP/SFI service. What's more is that the oil change intervals stated by the vehicle mfg are RECOMMENDATIONS based on your driving style and conditions. They are not warranty specific rules. If you have an engine part failure, the dealer must prove that it was an oil related failure vs the part failure itself which is far more often the case. 3. The color of your oil has very little if anything at all to due with an oil's lubricating qualities. Think about it; I could dye oil pitch black before using it and it would still be brand new oil with all the qualities it's supposed to have. The fact that oil changes color during service is because it's exposed to heat and environmental conditions. All modern oil filters remove particulate matter that can cause engine wear, but DO NOT remove the color saturation components from any oil. 4. HEAT HEAT HEAT is an oil's biggest enemy, NOT DIRT! The oil filters in existence today filter out almost all impurities measured in microns (millionths of an inch). (How many of you are old enough to remember changing the roll of toilet paper in your oil filter?!?) Heat breaks down petroleum based oils fairly rapidly. This is why every jet engine in the world uses synthetic oil! Synthetic oils do not break down anywhere near as much as petroleum based oils. Hence, the extended intervals.
The bottom line is use a full synthetic with an extended life filter and follow the OIL MFG recommendations. This will provide your vehicle with the best protection against oil related failures. PERIOD!
DenverM - that's about standard in most places. It pisses me off big time. I will say on the PA tpk it tends to be not as bad, and people do move out of the way, but still annoying as heck on the other roads.
That M on ebay almost def. has the php - I know someone noticed that the older folks have the php and the younger don't, I'll give the main reason - Sales reps are idiots! (sorry to those who know their cars, almost every one I have ever spoken to had no idea about the cars). So they are sold a car by color and other addons (like the wood, ch changer, etc...)
Trashman - you can order part 4805455AB for the logo. I've looked at several center caps (unfortunately still on the other cars and in trying to measure they don't look like they are the same size. The newer sebrings are actually a very large center that covers the lug nuts as well. The ones I think might work are the ones from the 16" chrome (the ones std on the 99/00 php). However, that part is the sticking logo which you can attach.
Congress in 1975 enacted the federal Magnuson-Moss Act to regulate written consumer product warranties. An examination of the law reveals warranties remain intact when AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants are used.
The law was meant to give consumers detailed information about warranty coverage before they buy.
Congress charged the Federal Trade Commission with creation of the specifics of the law.
The FTC set down three rules under the Act: the Disclosure Rule, the Pre-Sale Availability Rule and the Dispute Resolution Rule.
Those rules require warrantors to title their written warranty as either “full ” or “limited,” provide a single, clear and easy-to-read document that spells out certain information about coverage and ensure that warranties are available where the products are sold so that consumers can read them before buying.
In passing the Act, Congress meant to give consumers access to warranty information, let consumers comparison shop for warranties, encourage warranty competition and promote timely and complete performance of warranty obligations.
While the Magnuson-Moss Act does not require manufacturers to provide a written warranty, it provides specific rules when one is provided. Among those provisions, FTC regulations state: “(c) No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer’s using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection may be waived by the Commission if – ((1)the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and (2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.” ((42 U.S.C.2302(C))
That means your warranty stands when you use AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants.
Vehicle manufacturers recommend lubricants according to their viscosity grade and service classification. Any oil, whether it ’s conventional petroleum motor oil or synthetic, meeting the correct viscosity grade,5W-30 for example, and the current API SL and ILSAC GF-3 North American service classifications may be used without affecting warranty coverage. AMSOIL motor oils are recommended for use in applications requiring these specifications.
Furthermore, the practice of extending oil drain intervals does not void warranties. Original equipment manufacturers pay or deny warranty claims based on the findings of failure analysis. To affect the vehicle warranty, the lubricant must be directly responsible for the failure. If the oil didn’t cause the problem the warranty cannot be voided, regardless of brand or length of time in use.
Synthetic motor oil was introduced to the automotive public in 1972 by AMSOIL, INC., with the world ’s first API rated synthetic motor oil – specially formulated for long service and superior performance and protection to that of conventional oils.
Nearly 30 years ago, AMSOIL synthetics represented a vision of the future and technology ahead of their time. Since then, every major engine oil manufacturer has introduced synthetic oils of their own. To be sure, many original equipment manufacturers would like you to believe you can only use their products. However, it ’s a violation of the consumer protections set forth in the Magnuson-Moss Act, unless they ’re willing to provide you those products free of charge.
AMSOIL offers a warranty that covers the cost of repair or replacement of a proven mechanically sound engine damaged as a result of using AMSOIL synthetic motor oil. However, it has never happened. Thirty years of experience proves AMSOIL can be installed in any vehicle with complete confidence.
AMSOIL further backs its products with action when a Dealer or customer reports being told their warranty is voided if they use synthetics.
If you have heard from any member of a business that the use of AMSOIL Motor Oil or the practice of extending drain intervals will void warranties, send AMSOIL all the details including the name of the business, business owner or manager and the individual making the claims, in a signed and dated letter. Send the letter to the Technical Services Department at corporate headquarters and an AMSOIL representative will send them a letter explaining the facts.
Access to the complete Magnuson-Moss Act is available on the Internet by key words “Magnuson-Moss Act ” or “Federal Trade Commission.”
Not sure where Otto is, but he's already told us the 2003 changes. There isn't much, but here's what will be changed: -Graphite metallic paint available on all models, including the 300M Special(yes, there will be 03's) -4 CD Changer option in the dash is now a 6 CD changer -Sirius satellite radio is available with a "pod-like" transmitter mounted on the roof above the back window
That's basically it, so not much has changed. Like Graphite, want to play more CD's or like to have a satellite radio--get a 2003. If you could care less about those new things, go find yourself a new 02' M, with discounts averaging between $4,500 to $5,000 off right now, including Specials.
The 2003 model year will be a little shorter than usual, then the 2004 models will start, still the same LH-cars. Then, cutting the 2004 model year short, the plant will retool and the new LX cars will come out that fall. I'm fairly sure I got this all right!
Comments
Once you take the trim off -- is it reusable? I'd be interested in your old driver's side rear if you'd be willing to part with it (if it comes off without bending of course). That's the only one the dealer did not replace for me and unfortunately, also the only one someone with an SUV put a slight dent in.
Getting the Zaino in order for the Carlisle meet - should have time for a couple coats of Z5 and Z2
I think you can pretty much tell, by just looking at the car, who should have one and who is not interested in the club.
Dirty chrome wheels is a tipoff to me. I mean real dirty. You can tell if they like/love their M just by looking at it.
Clean M, mods, out of the way parking space gets card.
Sometimes I lurk around until they return to check 'em out. It's called profiling nowadays. One of these days somebody will call the cops on me.LOL
Rick/Geezer300M
Parts:
Mopar 4800878 Input Speed Sensor
Mopar 4800879 Output Speed Sensor
http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm8.showMessage?topicID=98.topic
Even I'd be interested!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1842254887
Thank's again Roger for the markers and both you and Scotian deserve accolades for the directions. They work great!!!!!!
Glennbp, no pics, sorry. The sensors are on the drivers side of the tranny. They require a 1" socket to remove and have an electrical connector with two wires. The input sensor is the one closest to the front, while the output sensor is maybe 6 inches further back. Look just above where the cooling lines connect on the side. There's just enough room to get your hand in there between the exhaust cat converter and the cooling line. I used a screwdriver to assist with the clip on the electrical connector, then a 1" socket with extentions on a 1/2" rachet to remove the sensor. It's in snug, not overtight, as the sensors have an o-ring seal. They are above the fluid level so no fluid drains out when removed.
http://community.webshots.com/album/41396245WINBwT
Thx for the info on the blinking lights problem. I don't know if the headlights blink, as it hasn't happened at night yet. I do know that the dashboard LED and trip computer readout lights blink. Based on that I'm inclined to think it may be the 2nd item you mentioned (the body control module) rather than the headlight switch. But I'm just guessing when it comes to these electrical gremblins. Anyway, thx again.
sounds like a fairly easy repair---probably a good idea to at keep one on hand if you're traveling any distance---is one more prone than the other to fail?
Yeah you need to get under the car, from the front, to change the sensors. I drove the car on Rhino ramps. You can get them at K-mart/Walmart/Advance Auto. The repair is easy, just a little tight space to work in.
From what I read, it's the input speed sensor that fails more often. The Intrepid board was pretty unanimous on that from all the posts.
Like I said, probably an old lady's Sunday church car. You know what's weird to me? Around here(southern Delaware) there are M's everywhere. Usually, if it's a 99' or 00', you can tell if it's a PHP or not (wheels & tires). Mostly, you see people in their 50's to 70's driving them. But, there are even more younger M drivers. And, as usual, most of the M's are non-PHP. I've found it quite odd that the "older" M'rs I tend to see are driving PHP-equipped cars, with the younger buyers having the soft M's.
You'd think it be the opposite, but it isn't. There's one I see sometimes driven by a guy in his mid 70's, that's a 00' Champagne on Camel w/PHP and the chrome Medallions. Another one I see quite often is a lady who appears to be in her 80's who has a 99' Stone White on Camel PHP M with a sunroof, usually with it open. She's always driving, her husband sitting comfortably in the passenger's seat. Of course, there are still more "soft" M owners, like our one neighbor (absolutely beautiful & immaculate 00' Lt. Cypress over Pearl Beige 00' non-PHP).
Just thought I'd share that!
Coming back a week later, I didn't see it, but am still tempted to contact the dealer, just to be "curious".
Oh yeah, so far, I've only seen one Special around here or anywhere. Sitting in the dentists' a few months ago, I watched it pass by and stop at a red light. It was silver, I've never seen any of the other colors in person yet (except on other M's, Intrepids, Concordes, etc.).
Since I change my oil every 3000 to 4000 miles, I figure the Dura Blend is fine. Any thoughts?
-vman
Good luck, Silver
He explained that the switch had an intermittent open circuit which gives the BCM confusing signals as to the status of the headlights being on or off. When the circuit opens the BCM thinks the headlights are OFF and sets the panel lights to bright, when the circuit closes the BCM thinks the headlights are ON and sets the panel lights to dim. Since this is an intermittent condition, the effect is the light show.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/38199629/43133912PIRRYF
http://www.spoilerdepot.com/Catalog.asp?A=10&S=1999-02%20300M&idModel=89&idB=
They offer 2 different styles for the 300M. I got one for my LHS and it looks great....color match (I had them paint it) is perfect. There were just 2 minor problems:
1) the spoiler didn't come with cool custom cut-out gaskets as featured in sdmike's install photos. SpoilerDepot ships the spoiler with strips of foam-rubber (I swear it looks just like storm door weather striping!) that you are supposed to cut and self stick to the outer edges of the spoiler pillars. I'm always concerned about water leaks so I just got some rubber gasket material and cut out my own custom gaskets, and then siliconed the sh-t out of the bolts!
2) my spoiler has an LED brake-light strip. There were no instructions as to the wire hook-up and their web-site has just "generic" wiring instructions. Following the web-site directions I tapped into the turn-signal circuit, but this was easily corrected. Didn't even use a VOM....just tried tapping an adjacent wire and it worked fine.
Bottom line: Paint is important. I can't paint myself. But I can make gaskets and and wire a simple circuit by trial and error. That's why I recommend Spoiler Depot, despite the problems. Plus they shipped on-time.
BTW- the install is easy. 30-minutes tops.
Toms99, thanks for the link for the wing. I actually decided to have the guy who's gonna install it get one from Chrysler. He works at a Ford dealer in the autobody department but can get wings for any car. He actually gets and paints many wings for the retail outlet Eastern Offroad so I'm confident he'll paint mine right. Especially since he saw my car over the weekend.
As for California Dream, they're gonna just send me my check back (since I paid COD) and they're gonna send the UPS guy to pick up their wing to return it. So the only thing I lost on the deal was time. At least I got that going for me
-vman
I won't lump all California drivers into this mini-rant, but it sure happened much more there than anywhere else: drivers just cruising in the left lane, utterly oblivious to faster cars coming up behind them (or just not giving a damn), often forming rolling roadblocks as they took their sweet time to pass another car at about two tenths of a mile-per-hour faster. I-5 south from the Bay Area was horrible (the right lane was consistently the passing lane for the faster cars, whenever there was a decent gap between cars in that lane), and I-15 to Las Vegas was also bad, even thought the traffic was lighter. I think many drivers have decided that if they aren't the absolute slowest vehicle on the road, it's easier (saves lane changes) to just stay in the left lane. Grrrrrr!
Doubt that I'll go back and plow through two weeks of posts. Nice flag shot, though, sdmike!
This is for those of you who want to clean or shine your tires without messing up your wheels.
http://www.amshield.com/
-vman
The Amsoil oil filters are rated for 12,500 miles, so if you actually did 25,000 in one year, you would change oil filter twice a year. I've done this for many years. Right now, I seem to be only putting about 10-12K a year on my car, so I just change it all once a year, usually in the Spring. I do all the family's fleet in the same weekend, once each year.
I'll have to check this out further. I have to be cautious because of where I live. The temperature extremes promote condensation in the block in winter especially on short trips where the engine doesn't get fully warmed up. But the synthetic would make winter ops easier on the engine.
I've been patiently waiting for a dry sump system where you replace a single cartridge that contains both the oil and filter. No mess, no fuss, and it takes 5 minutes to do - pull out, plug in.
Is your oil black when you change it once a year?--I would be more inclined to look at the color of the oil to determine whether a change is due. But I use regular oil at the moment and try to change it between 3K and 4K. I did once go as much as 6K between change using regular oil but dont like going that long. That alone would probably void warranty coverage as I live in the Northeast and therefore schedule B would probably apply. If you just once go over the recommended oil change interval , they could deny warranty coverage for engine failure. I may not purchase any extended warranty due to the fact that I already went over that interval at least once. I have 37K on my yr 2000 M.
EZ
62k miles, perfect record, full dealer 60k service 1,000 miles ago. Driving along at 50 mph, it suddenly turned on all the dash lights and killed the engine. Drifted to a stop, not running.
Will crank, with dash lights all on, but only "pops" about every third revolution (consistently.)
New PCM and new fuel pump made no difference. Still won't start. Dealer is baffled.
Ideas?
Ike, in Powhatan VA
1. Engine component failures attributed to lubrication qualities are exceedingly rare; even more rare during new car warranty periods. (This is, of course, unless you run your engine with very low or no oil at all!)
2. No warranty can be voided by following the OIL MFG recommendations for change intervals, filter requirements, etc. provided the oil meets or exceeds the vehicle mfgs. requirements, ie AP/SFI service. What's more is that the oil change intervals stated by the vehicle mfg are RECOMMENDATIONS based on your driving style and conditions. They are not warranty specific rules. If you have an engine part failure, the dealer must prove that it was an oil related failure vs the part failure itself which is far more often the case.
3. The color of your oil has very little if anything at all to due with an oil's lubricating qualities. Think about it; I could dye oil pitch black before using it and it would still be brand new oil with all the qualities it's supposed to have. The fact that oil changes color during service is because it's exposed to heat and environmental conditions. All modern oil filters remove particulate matter that can cause engine wear, but DO NOT remove the color saturation components from any oil.
4. HEAT HEAT HEAT is an oil's biggest enemy, NOT DIRT! The oil filters in existence today filter out almost all impurities measured in microns (millionths of an inch). (How many of you are old enough to remember changing the roll of toilet paper in your oil filter?!?) Heat breaks down petroleum based oils fairly rapidly. This is why every jet engine in the world uses synthetic oil! Synthetic oils do not break down anywhere near as much as petroleum based oils. Hence, the extended intervals.
The bottom line is use a full synthetic with an extended life filter and follow the OIL MFG recommendations. This will provide your vehicle with the best protection against oil related failures. PERIOD!
That M on ebay almost def. has the php - I know someone noticed that the older folks have the php and the younger don't, I'll give the main reason - Sales reps are idiots! (sorry to those who know their cars, almost every one I have ever spoken to had no idea about the cars). So they are sold a car by color and other addons (like the wood, ch changer, etc...)
Trashman - you can order part 4805455AB for the logo. I've looked at several center caps (unfortunately still on the other cars
http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom1.shtml
Congress in 1975 enacted the federal Magnuson-Moss Act to regulate written consumer product warranties. An examination of the law reveals warranties remain intact when AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants are used.
The law was meant to give consumers detailed information about warranty coverage before they buy.
Congress charged the Federal Trade Commission with creation of the specifics of the law.
The FTC set down three rules under the Act: the Disclosure Rule, the Pre-Sale Availability Rule and the Dispute Resolution Rule.
Those rules require warrantors to title their written warranty as either “full ” or “limited,” provide a single, clear and easy-to-read document that spells out certain information about coverage and ensure that warranties are available where the products are sold so that consumers can read them before buying.
In passing the Act, Congress meant to give consumers access to warranty information, let consumers comparison shop for warranties, encourage warranty competition and promote timely and complete performance of warranty obligations.
While the Magnuson-Moss Act does not require manufacturers to provide a written warranty, it provides specific rules when one is provided. Among those provisions, FTC regulations state: “(c) No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer’s using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade, or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection may be waived by the Commission if – ((1)the warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and (2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.” ((42 U.S.C.2302(C))
That means your warranty stands when you use AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants.
Vehicle manufacturers recommend lubricants according to their viscosity grade and service classification. Any oil, whether it ’s conventional petroleum motor oil or synthetic, meeting the correct viscosity grade,5W-30 for example, and the current API SL and ILSAC GF-3 North American service classifications may be used without affecting warranty coverage. AMSOIL motor oils are recommended for use in applications requiring these specifications.
Furthermore, the practice of extending oil drain intervals does not void warranties. Original equipment manufacturers pay or deny warranty claims based on the findings of failure analysis. To affect the vehicle warranty, the lubricant must be directly responsible for the failure. If the oil didn’t cause the problem the warranty cannot be voided, regardless of brand or length of time in use.
Synthetic motor oil was introduced to the automotive public in 1972 by AMSOIL, INC., with the world ’s first API rated synthetic motor oil – specially formulated for long service and superior performance and protection to that of conventional oils.
Nearly 30 years ago, AMSOIL synthetics represented a vision of the future and technology ahead of their time. Since then, every major engine oil manufacturer has introduced synthetic oils of their own. To be sure, many original equipment manufacturers would like you to believe you can only use their products. However, it ’s a violation of the consumer protections set forth in the Magnuson-Moss Act, unless they ’re willing to provide you those products free of charge.
AMSOIL offers a warranty that covers the cost of repair or replacement of a proven mechanically sound engine damaged as a result of using AMSOIL synthetic motor oil. However, it has never happened. Thirty years of experience proves AMSOIL can be installed in any vehicle with complete confidence.
AMSOIL further backs its products with action when a Dealer or customer reports being told their warranty is voided if they use synthetics.
If you have heard from any member of a business that the use of AMSOIL Motor Oil or the practice of extending drain intervals will void warranties, send AMSOIL all the details including the name of the business, business owner or manager and the individual making the claims, in a signed and dated letter. Send the letter to the Technical Services Department at corporate headquarters and an AMSOIL representative will send them a letter explaining the facts.
Access to the complete Magnuson-Moss Act is available on the Internet by key words “Magnuson-Moss Act ” or “Federal Trade Commission.”
-Graphite metallic paint available on all models, including the 300M Special(yes, there will be 03's)
-4 CD Changer option in the dash is now a 6 CD changer
-Sirius satellite radio is available with a "pod-like" transmitter mounted on the roof above the back window
That's basically it, so not much has changed. Like Graphite, want to play more CD's or like to have a satellite radio--get a 2003. If you could care less about those new things, go find yourself a new 02' M, with discounts averaging between $4,500 to $5,000 off right now, including Specials.
The 2003 model year will be a little shorter than usual, then the 2004 models will start, still the same LH-cars. Then, cutting the 2004 model year short, the plant will retool and the new LX cars will come out that fall. I'm fairly sure I got this all right!