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http://www.scale18.com
They state that the original is the one from the Walter P. Chrysler Collection. This is listed under upcoming releases...
Gauge rattles- I am the one with the rattle behind the gauges but it has not been fixed yet. Two dealers and three all-day visits but no fix in site for this problem. I finally contacted Chrysler about this problem but all they did was contact the dealer I had gone to twice already who now said that they were willing to take the entire dash apart to find where the noises(s) is coming from and/or what is causing it. I haven't had time to take the car back though and my wife who drives it mostly said that while annoying, the rattles would get worse if they took it apart. Ottowrkr said that it may be a screw that attatches the instrument panel to the cross-car beam and that it may have worked loose--not a for sure explanation but might be what is causing the noise.
Transmission- Mine shifts bad too and is always slipping and then grabbing the gear hard with a jump. Out on the road it also shifts poorly and is "the weakest link". I'll have to search for this TSB and if we ever have time, take this car back again.
Paint- There is chips all over and I continue to find more weekly when it is washed. I got the Chrysler touch-up paint and it was worth it. I also use the full Mopar 300M bra on long trips. Our Voyager seemed to have better paint because it had very few, if any chips and minimal scratches--the 300M's paint is very thin and on our deep slate car, the light gray primer shows when the paint is chipped. My mother's 99' Intrigue has a much thicker and richer coat of paint.
Others- The weatherstripping has shrunk badly and needs to be replaced. I have the Goodyear Eagle LS's that like to sing loud songs on the road but haven't had a problem with them yet. The upgraded stereo is great and does what it can to lessen the rattles.
Conclusion- Not a bad car but still not the best. Though, when it is shiny and clean, it looks magnificent!!
Solution, drill a small drain hole on each side. I looked at the size hole and location on the 2000 Concorde and duplicated this as best as I could. I don't remember what size drill bit, but I used a handheld cordless drill and very gingerly drilled the hole, hoping not to catch any wiring. I was able to stop as soon as I broke through the plastic.
No more waterfalls from the mirrors when I drive away after heavy rain or car washings.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=149171&a=12664054&f=0
Keith
Was getting a bit bummed earlier - I had just finished the Z1, and it started to rain. Was figuring I'd have to do the Z1 all over again but fortunately it stopped after a half hour.
Anyways - my dumb question. Someone asked me what I was using on my Silver 300, and I realized I wasn't sure how to pronounce it. It could be Zay-no, Zay-ee-no, or Zah-ee-no (I'm thinking the latter-sounds more Itallian).
BTW, the clay bar works great - I highly recommend it. Took off lots of grime that wasn't visible.
I spend way to much time in my car and spent enough money that the car should run smooth... My straight six JEEP runs like a Swiss clock with 105,000 .... Maybe ottoworker can give some guidance
1. Standard lub & oil.
2. Drivers seat moves on the seat track about 1/8".
3. Steering wheel shakes on braking from 40-50mph. (note, this one was squawked at Jan01 service, they said unable to duplicate)
4. Feels like there's a wheel not running true at very slow speeds.
5. At last 30K service in Jan01, service record states changed tranny fluid but it says they put in ATF+3. Relace with ATF+4. Also, I also said the tranny has never shifted smoothly and consistantly. (I squawk this one every time.)
Here's their results and my observations,
1. Completed.
2. SA said seat is within spec. When I asked what the spec was, SA couldn't answer but said he "compared" it to other 99 300Ms. So does everyone with a 99 have a seat that moves about 1/8" forward or backward on accelaration and braking?
3. Replaced front brake pads and turned rotors. This fixed steering shake problem. Front end has no shimmies and shakes now. Hope driving it that way for four months didn't screw something else up. I know the rotors were warped, but couldn't get SA or Chrysler to admit a problem, my cost $250.
4. Unable to duplicate. Seems to have been fixed with #3. Well duh... the rotors were warped.
5. Replaced tranny fluid with ATF+4 and did a reprogram of TCM. It shifts worse now. Especially in the up/down shift from 1st to 2nd in slow moving traffic. I wish they'd of just changed the fluid... that's all I asked them to do.
I'm now over 36K miles and any more work is gonna cost me the $100 deductible on the 7/100K extended warranty for each service visit.
I'm starting to seriously consider an Acura or Lexus trade.
Rick
Keith
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1636231&a=12517014&p=47031550
I installed the new boush Plugs. I must say DC did something right in the this engine. The plugs are the easiest ones to change I have even seen. 2 T20 torx screws, unplug the connector, lift the coil, with the boot out, use a long extension, with a spark plug socket, & take the plug out. Took me a 1/2 hour to do. The old plugs were in ok shape. However I checked the gap, & they were out on all 6. My 300m says the gap should be .050. All the plugs were at .053. They were a light grey type of color, which is normal. No oil, or anything. The only thing I saw, & smelled was fuel on the plugs which should be normal also. I havn't had a chance to drive it yet, It's raining out, & I had to pick up my new...well used 94 Explorer I bought for towing purposes. No retest with the Jet module yet. Hopefully when I have time.
http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/index.html
Regards, Silver
Check it out here
Also something worth noting is look at those charts, they say base test came out at 174HP, that's at the wheels, and that would mean that the transmission eats up 31% of the HP! That is kinda parasitic. =\
Well, I'm gonna wait till all my exhaust parts get here and them I'm gonna see what that does for me.
Keith
http://community.webshots.com/album/12315199AybBnpLRmW
concord man: i paid $28K for my M and it has everything but php. I enjoy my tush warmer, and there are days when i enjoy the nice warmth on my lower back as i drive. For the most part, here in NY, our winter has been brutal and first thing 7 am in the morning, no tush is ever warm enuf without the warmer. i love my sound system. when i had the degrading pleasure of riding in someone's car without comparable sound, i'd rather listen to silence. as for looks, i have always said concord looks like someone spent too much time from the tail forward and when they got to the back, they threw their hands up in the air and said "we're done" and didn't look at how bulbous it looked. it's like a bad case of wart. i had the choice between concord, intrepid, and M, it was a no brainer, didn't think too long on this one.
Now, remember to toss out a fishing line while you ride in that boat.
silver: good to see you around.
russ: I CLEANED the interior of the car today!!! horay!!! after this nasty winter and the 5 kids, i spent 7 hours cleaning mary. tomorrow is going to be the exterior. then, it's coffee time for us! any thoughts on what i should say to the chrysler rep (if he ever calls me back) about the rotors?
Sleepy
Disclaimer- I hear this holds true for men also. Although I am not sure I believe it.
Lover
Ruski
who couldn't get the 2002 Acura TL-S out of his mind (must be fastdriver's influence) until he saw pictures of the 2002 Nissan Altima.
I too would like to see a bump shifting TSB if there is one.
Rick, I have also noticed a 1/8 inch or so shift of the seat upon hard breaking (haven't noticed it upon acceleration). I'm taking Big Red into the 5* in a couple of weeks to swap out the oil and check everything, and I'm going to have them look at the seat. I'll let you know what I find out..
-Mike
Mike
Also have the "bump" in tranny at around the 10 mph range when reaccelerating after slowing.
They are also changing my fluid again due to their using the atf 3 instead of the proper atf 4--only thing is they only drop the pan so only about 4 quarts get changed which is about a third of the fluid-so a good amount of atf 3 will remain--also have the seat movement occasionally--i think you can at least temporarily alleviate the prob by slightly changing the seat settings--
still love Lolita but the annoyances are mounting
Easyrider300M
Take another look at it
Concorde rear end
check out the rest of the site--very interesting
Your M looks great, who's springs did you use and how much did the lower the car? Are you going to run different wheels if so what size are you thinking of? Did the springs sacrifice the ride much hand how does it handle now.
Thanks
So 100 cured it? That must be why I never noticed a warping problem on my 300M
Where exactly did you drill the holes in the mirrors? I've wanted to do this since I got my M but was reluctant -- did not want to drill into motor mechanism.
On the Chrysler rep:
I told my area rep that this was my first-ever Chrysler product, and I was completely satisfied...except for the rotors. He authorized a "customer satisfaction" replacement of the rotors, and I paid for the new pads.
I thought that was fair.
Good luck!
The pivot point where the mirror folds most likely has a hole, and the water (in my thinking) drains from there... I haven't put the hose in there directly to check it out though...
It was indeed an annoyance with my '99.
-m
Exhaust Mod
Exhaust Mod
that mod would look a lot better on the M--should be a dual settup though---hey 300michael , can you work on that mod for us to see if it increases horsepower--one improvement it needs though is a chrome tip!
Extra weight (will hurt performance)
Extra drag (will be scraping the ground alot. even wourse then the front air dam)
Now the pluses.
your could take off the rear axels and, tires and have the tips come out the rear wheel wells. Put on rubber on the outside tips and you can use them as your rear tires (will help offset the extra weight issue.
You can easily clean the inside of the pipes of rust.