Chrysler 300M

rogor2k

Don't rule out the metallized film if you like the look. It has a very slight effect on radio reception. I can detect some difference on weak stations, but the strong stations boom right on through. And I live in a hilly, difficult reception area.

jedi_knight

So I'm going to take the plunge and order the PHG struts for my M. The parts manager that I deal with wants to get a PHG vin # so he can be sure he is ordering all the necessary parts. Would anyone with a 01 PHG equiped M be willing to email their vin # so I could use it to order the parts?

Or if thats too much, anyone know which digit in the vin# signifies the PHG package? Not sure if this would work but its worth a shot.

Thanks,

Keith

dustinnewton

SD-You know what? Those tips look like the chrome tips on the new Cadillac's. A LOT like them. Hmmmm.

Roger-Kinda bringing up a little South bashing, aren't you? Bubba and a banjo? If you're bashing Tennessee, then that's OK!! ;-)

dustinnewton

Do a Dogpile.com search for lx2145 (sdmike's exhaust tip model number) and the following is the only hit that comes back:

More fantastic latex apparel for women, brought to you by CyberHussy

URL: http://www.cyberhussy.com/latex6.html

The link is dead, BTW!

dustinnewton

I am also interested in the tips as well. If he can make up a set at areasonable price and is willing to ship them, I would probably be interested in a pair. Let us know what you find out.

sdmike2

See post #2350

99_300m_ric_va

Why does your dealer need a VIN number? Can he just get one from his lot of vehicles? He could probably also use his service database for a source.

Really, the parts database they use has computerized pics of the parts and he should be able to tell differences in PHG vs non-PHG struts.

Perhaps you need a smarter parts guy?

99_300m_ric_va

Guys checkout these links from the DodgeRTClub forums for some positive and very interesting results.

 http://www.dodgertclub.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000182.html

 http://www.dodgertclub.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000194.html

mrl859

Why don't you post a picture of the t-shirt?

sdmike2

what t-shirt?

300m_vt

What did you use to rid the interior rugs of road salt, if you don't mind my asking ?

malyel

Thanks for the info I checked with a local custom shop and they were impressed with your set up.

mrl859

This shirt:
"Roger - I sent you a shirt today as a sample of what I get produced here locally. You should have it in a couple of days."

sdmike2

that's my company polo shirt (not a club shirt) just to show Roger the type of shirt I can get through my channels.

ajpiii

Very interesting info about the TB, and the intake... Are you going to be the first to try it out on the M ?

After all I read one of their messages that said "300M's better look out" ... Can you believe the nerve heheh

intrepidspirit

Now that Chrysler has corrected the window motor problem, it seems like the armrest is the next issue. Mine cracked at less than 1000 miles. I thought it was a fluke, but I have heard of others, including an LHS.

I had my M in last week to replace the driver's armrest and interior door weatherstripping. They don't replace the armrest -- they replace the whole door panel. The new panels are different --they have a hole drilled in the rounded portion at the door opening. It looks like a screw should be inserted, but there is nothing inside to screw it to. The dealer is trying to get Chrysler to provide a filler for the hole.

It's not that bad -- its a pretty small hole and you only see it when the door is open, but I thought you should be prepared...

sibe

Yo IntrepidSpirit!
Thanx for the info. Just went to the www.carsdirect.com web site and the rebate shows $1k
with must take delivery before April 30. We got the 1k rebate through a convoluted deal involving a Chrysler dealer in Milwaukie, OR and a dodge delaer in Portland (since I had ordered from them before and have been very happy with Timberline Dodge). We started an invoice price of around 28k as I couldn't get them to take the damn 600 bucks rollback off ....The whole thing after rebate came to 29 and change (luxury pack, 17" rims, PHP, spoiler, bra, side impact a/b, traction control - not sure if that was part of the PHP, cargo liner, cargo net and last but not least those indispensable 4 hooks for the grcery bags - and of course for them to drive the vehicle to Seattle to place aboard a Matson ship. So all and all am reasonably happy with the price but of course if there was another grand to get off...let's not be silly about this right? 8-)

99_300m_ric_va

ajpii, I think so. I ordered a new stock throttle body this evening from oem-car-parts.com for the 184.00 and the gasket for 5.83. I'm going to look at it and see if I can grind and polish it to the 67-68mm opening.

Sounds like I gotta remove the strut tower brace, cowl and wipers to get adequate access to the throttle body for removal and replacement.

Anyone suggest a bit to use on a dremel? I'll check with GR8WHT and see what he used to open his up.

Here's an excerpt from one of his posts from

http://www.dodgertclub.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000182.html

Well I installed the modified TB today and first impressions are as follows:

Off the line I had no problem laying down a nice black line! (smelled awfull though!) It seem a lot more alive from a stop and pulled strong all the way to 100mph (ran out of clear road).

Ran 3 0-60 times, it was a crude measurment as I had to do it myself so there is a reaction time in my fingers here.

Each run was 8 sec, but acounting for my delay and just using the console timer. I would say its in the 7 to 7.5 sec range. The runs were not in ideal conditions either (very windy)

I also reset the PCM in order for it to learn the new airflow. It will take a while for the pcm to fully adjust to the TB. (a few days of driving)

Seat of the pants, it pulls stronger, sounds better (growls).

Now the fun stuff, the swap!

In order to remove the TB its a detailed operation.

Tools-Good socket set and extension.

Full Torx driver set (TB uses Torx)

** disconnect battery**

1. Remove wiper arms, Socket under plastic caps(yep you have to)

2. Remove plastic cowl, Torx screws ** note where the screws came out off, they are different lengths.

3. Remove Strut Tower brace, 9 bolts, and disconnect washer nozzle hose from brace.

4. Now you can access the TB- remove air hose.

5. Remove TB support bracket bolt on underside of TB and loosen the 2 nuts on the Tranny holding that bracket. The TB is on plastic studs so you have to lossen the bracket.

6. Remove Throttle and Cruise cables, WOT and slide them out of the slot.

7. Remove 3 Torx blots holding the TB on

8. Disconnect TP and AIS connectors.

9. remove TB **its on studs so be carefull and watch the rubber gasket.

Install, reverse above.

Some pics of the TB: just put the url in your browser.

1. Stock TB with sensors

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653114

2.62mm stock bore

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653110

3. WOT stop, prevents 90 degree opening (86degrees)

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653107

4.Lower lip below the throttle plate 70 mm

throttle plate is 68mm dia.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653103

5.Narrowing of tb to 62 mm (metal to be removed)

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653098

6. TB after removing metal to 67 mm dia

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653095

7.another view of Throttle plate and boring.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653090

8. WOT stop modified to allow 90 degrees

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653087

9. Lower lip remmoved for smoother flow.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1062358&a=7846180&p=44653084

99_300m_ric_va

Please email webmaster@dreamspeed1.com with your thoughts and motivation to encourage Rich to build and supply 300M/Intrepid R/T performance parts.

Rich made this post on DodgeRTclub.com

This is Rich from DreamSpeed. I have been getting tons of emails from Intrepid and 300M owners looking for parts for their cars. I will be starting a few projects with an Intepid very soon but I need some feedback from you guys on what is currently available and who supplies it. I am not sure what there is currently available but I will be making a larger rear sway bar for it, possibly adjustable coilovers, and an air intake system. If there is anything else that you are interested in, let me know.
If you are not familiar with DreamSpeed, here is a little background. We are located in California on the Central coast. I pretty much only deal with the Stratus, cirrus, breeze, avenger and sebring cars at the moment. I own 3 Stratus's personally and I am in the process of building a 500hp Stratus. Most of my parts are simple bolts ons that anyone can install but I do have turbo kits and Superchargers on the way too. So know I would like to expand and start making parts for our big brother the Intrepid and the 300m. Any input will be appreciated.
www.dreamspeed1.com
805-735-8091

300michael

I have been on this too, but am waiting for hard numbers, a one second variance is pretty big. At best his mods are right in line with my numbers. I do like the idea of the throttle body change but I would use a hone tool to make it neat and clean. You can rent them at most shops. I first want to protect the transmission more, before doing anything to increase the engine power. If his numbers are accurate (according to the dyno testing) we should be able to have a 300M that will run at least 6.8 and 14.5 second quarter mile times.

sdmike2

300michael - wow!

ajpiii - I also caught that reference to M owners "watching out". Let me at em..

dustin - The caddy's have any part numbers that look like that? I'm stumped. Also, are you looking for just the tips or the full Y setup for each side? If you already have dual exhaust let me know what size pipe you're running so I can make sure that Ed gets you the right tip/pipe. I saw several different sizes of the same tip. In fact, if anyone wants me to coordinate anything with Ed at the muffler shop let me know. I'd be glad to help.

scotian

So they moved the drain holes from the new mirrors and put them in the new door panels -- wonderful!

dkrhardy

I'm an R/T owner ... don't throw anything OK? I've been reading this forum for about 8 months and finally decided I gotta speak up. I am the 2nd R/T to have the modified TB. The 1st was the GR8WHT, he did the work 1st. He did one for me and I'll tell you that his work (with a dremel, I think) is so good that the finish is far better than the factory casting. My engine is a "green" one, only 4,300 miles on it so I've yet to get the increase that all of you speak of at or about 6,000 miles. The initial throttle response with the new TB is much better, touch the pedal and you are off and away. Seat-o-the-pants dyno says more there than before. I used to get a chirp and a 1 foot mark, now a squeal and a 3 foot mark. This is a "green" engine, don't forget. AND I only did it yesterday so the PCM is still re-thinking the situation. It can only get better as it ages, PCM as well as the engine. Don't know if duals, like you folks are crazy about, would help more. :-) Seems to me that I read that a free exhaust helps at top end HP and a free intake helps more for low end torque. Not too sure and I'm not a real wrench head anyway. I enjoy reading your forum for the views on the LH cars as well as your modifications. I'll shut up now and continue to lurk. Don

fuzzywuzzy

So I posted on the RT board about this. I'll be happy to be the test mule for the 300M. I have 2 other cars, so if I blow the 300m up, it doesn't matter I was thinging about this last year, I even posted about it, but at the time the dealer was the only source for a TB. We will see what happens. I have already taken the TB off, & put it back on, so I know what I'm doing.

spankster

With the recent posts (especially SDMike's), I've overcome most of my fears about the exhaust mod. However, I still hesitate to join the faithful because of earlier reports, in Town Hall and elsewhere, that the replacement systems were subject to resonance problems at 1900 to 2100 rpms.

Has anyone identified causes and remedies for this? Does it continue to be a problem? If I can resolve this issue, I'm gonna need Ed Hanson to make me some tips. I believe he has set the new standard. Thanks for sharing, Mike.

rogor2k

Most of the serious problems with the cabin resonance are from those who didn't replace the stock collector muffler with the Magnaflow #12258. This alone removes almost all of the resonance.

If the remaining resonance is still to much for your taste (I like it, it's very subtle) there is another small Magnaflow cylindrical muffler that you can add behind the collector that will make the resonance even less, probably close to stock sound if that's what you want.

I have a bit of resonance between 1800 and 2100 RPM, but after the first couple of days, I don't even hear it any more. It is NEVER so loud that it drowns out the stereo, even at very modest volume levels.

Try it. You'll like it.

malyel

Any chance anybody with the dual set up has the ability to post an audio clip on the web. Maybe they could send it to the 300m club site and they could post it there. I would love to hear how it sounds under full throtle, at idle, etc.

scotian

I just bought a can of spray-on foaming carpet cleaner at the store, saturated the salt, brushed with a nylon brush, repeat, eventually suck the leftover away with a damp cloth (or else the salt just stays there, but in a different pattern).

sleepymw

scotian, i'm going to try that on the carpet.

have you also noticed on the windows and plastic parts of the windows that there are some nasty stuff stuck on there too? i know, this sound so ambiguous, so i'll try and explain. it appears to be salt and dirt mixed and it is stuck on the plastic. i tried washing it off, but no aviail. when it dries, i was able to some what use my fingernails (i know i know) to scrape it off some. but still, it can be noticable.

i'm meeting with russ today, so i'll show that to him, may be he has a clue, as we both live in the buffalo area.

then may be he can describe it for me some more.

ok. off to meet my coffee M-ate.

sleeps

sdmike2

I'll second what Roger is saying. I didn't try leaving the stock collector on so I don't have a point of comparison, but I don't notice ANY unwanted cabin resonance with my set-up. I get a low growl during acceleration, but I don't seem to get any unusual noise spikes anywhere in my RPM range. Maybe I'm not listening closely or maybe my slightly different set-up sounds different than what Roger has, but either way my similar fears have not materialized.

As for an audio recording, I'd have to hear from someone how they would recommend doing it. I would guess that the microphone used would have to be pretty sensitive because we certainly don't sound like downshifting tractor trailers. I'll experiment with my video camera and see if I can get both inside and outside videos/recordings and find a way to digitize them. Roger, if you find a good way to do this let me know.

Mike

sdmike2

Just a little more information...

At idle I don't hear the exhaust at all inside. I barely hear it outside.

Revving the engine provides an ever-so-slight increase in sound in the interior (to use Roger's 1=stock to 10=harley scale, I'd say it's a 2), and at the rear you get a raspy "rowwwr" that is pretty subtle. It's not the guttural growling you would expect, but more like a bobcat than lion.

Under load you hear a wonderful low growl, ranking about a 3 on the Roger scale) that increases in pitch as you "get on it". It's a beautiful soothing sound, not "headache inducing" like many open exhaust cars that I've been in...or even stock Camaro Z28's or SS's that scramble your brain at highway speeds. I haven't heard the exhaust from the outside during acceleration.. )

-Mike

sdmike2

Again to re-iterate what Roger said, Ed told me that if the car is too loud he can put another small cylindrical muffler behind the collector and make the car sound almost stock again. There is plenty of room to do this, and he recommened this approach rather than putting on tips with resonators. He said the good mufflers do a much better job of sound management with limited flow restriction, while the baffled tips (usually glass packs) have a 15% or so flow reduction and introduce a "hissing" sound to the system. I took his word on this one.

Mike

rogor2k

I tried running alongside while my wife drove so I could hear the exhaust from outside, but she lost me around 60 *grin*. I am going to try recording a short mpeg movie and see if I can capture the sound.

I'm outta here until the weekend, going to Lost Wages to win my down payment on the Hemi C.

Roger

sdmike2

If you disappear from here and start showing up on the Viper board I'll know you hit all lucky 7's on the Rio slots.

spankster

Very helpful, guys, as usual. Thank-you.

I'm gonna have to try this. I'm off to buy my RotoZip at lunchtime. Mike, do you know what material Ed uses as molding around the cutouts? It looks good, and I'm sure I can benefit from a "fudge factor".

-Russ

300michael

There is a slight drone or resonance at 1800-1900 on mine also, that was not there at first. Muffler shop checked it out and both mufflers are ok. As for the baffeled tips the combined openings are more then the 2.5 inch pipe. So if there is a restriction it is not at the tips.

laurasdada

My '99 300M hit 22,222 miles this morning. No issues to report, just a great car.
Quick trip to the casino Sunday, just trying to win monthly payment on the M. Came up a little short...Drove 80-100mph most of the way down I95. This car is built for high speed cruising. Overall, for the trip (170 miles, 80% highway) I averaged about 25.5 mpg.
Still at least 12 months before I start searching for my next car, I'm going to give the M to my wife to replace her '95 Saab 900 (also a fine car). What will you have for me, Chrysler????

300michael

You R/T owners are in the same boat we are. We all want just alittle more (OK,a lot more)power and performance out of our cars. The throttle body is a good start, along with intakes and exhausts. The only thing I wander is what effect the boring out the throttle body will have on gas mileage. I would hate giving it the gas and watching my gas meter go from full to empty in seven seconds.
My main concern continues to be the transmission though. The only thing that I have seen in this area is a larger cooler. If we could just cut the paricitic losses on the transmission, say to 20% we would get a large performance increase.
Keep lurking and join in once in a while too.

So many things to do, so little time to do them.

300michael

I hope both of you that you that you come back with more $$$$ then you took.
My 300M is comming up on it's three years too. I will be keeping my eye out on the market too, to see if any improvements come up, for the 2002 model year. I do wish Chrysler (Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymounth) had the same after market selection as say Ford, GM and even Honda.

malyel

Just got back from a local shop and they quoted me a price of $60 for the Dynomax 17739. Is this about right? They didn't have the exact price for the Magnaflow 12258 but guessed it would be around the same. Besides these two items and the tips and pipe that Ed sells for $100 each plus S/H will I need any more parts?
Mike, When you fill up your car what does your trip computer calculate total distance before you need more gas? Just wondering.

malyel

Has anyone ever contacted hennessey motorsports in Texas regarding 300m upgrades? I know they specialize in D.C. products and even work on PT's and Prowler's. I am sure there answer to the question of getting more power out of the 300m would be to put a viper engine in it but they might have some other insight. Here is a link to thier site. http://www.hennesseymotorsports.com/

fuzzywuzzy

Yes, They are no plans on testing any of there stuff on a 300M. I was told the headers would bolt to the engine, but would not fit in the engine compartment because of different configuration of the various parts of the car. They said the didn't test fit one, but it still wouldn't fit. That, & the very inflated prices make no sense for the 300M.

rklass

Yes, she has what looks like dried road salt/dirt that seems almost "bonded" to the rubber trim around the side windows. Anybody know what might dissolve the salt without harming the rubber and paint? Soap & water won't do it.
Also, anyone notice that the outside rubber trim strips at the base of the side windows is shrinking? Sleepy has gaps at both ends of these strips (2000, 26K miles).
One last thought: Some 2000 Ms, as well as the "00 and '01 Concorde have drain holes in the root area of the outside mirrors. Maybe one of us could make a template to drill holes in the '99-'01 M and the '01 Sebring sedan that uses the same mirrors.

sibe

To Laurasdada:
Check out the New Dodge Charger coming out for 2002...'nuff said.

sdmike2

Not sure what molding he used for the cutouts. I *do* know that he used to install it without adhesive, but it works better if you glue it in place. It looks like door edge guard molding to me.

-Mike

sdmike2

You'll also need the bent pipes that go from the DynoMax muffler to the tips. Roger got his from JC Whitney (Mandrel bent 12x12s, 2 1/2 inch) for about $12 each if I remember correctly. I just had Ed make them for me. The price on the muffler seems reasonable. I think the Magnoflow might be a little more expensive than the DynoMax but I'm not sure. My quote and invoice wasn't itemized. So, if I do the math right, you're looking at about $150 for the mufflers, $200 for the tip assemblies, and $25 for pipes. Add $100 for labor (welding, etc) and you come to the $475 that I paid for my system.

Also, yes, my trip computer (the 01) provides me miles to empty, spot MPG, average MPG, and other information.

-Mike

sdmike2

That wasn't your question. I'll check next time I fill the car up. I think it says something in the mid 200s.

Mike

rklass

The distance to empty computer will figure DTE based on the avg. MPG for the last tankfull.
If it was low, it man say 250 miles to empty on fillup, and if it was all highway miles, at 25 MPG or so, it may show a DTE of about 400 miles.

sibe

To Laurasdada:
Check out the New Dodge Charger coming out for 2002...'nuff said.

fuzzywuzzy

To open a past issue, I also wondered if my gas tank held 17 gallons. I can now say for sure it does hold at least 16.4, & most likly 17. I drove my 300M with the low fuel light on for 2 days. Mixture hw/city driving. I finally pulled into a gas station after my DTE said 4. Note it said 8, & then jumped up to 15, then slowly came back down to the 4 during the 2 days. I filled up, & $28 later(damm oil company's!) it took 16.4 gallons. Which seems to backup other posts about how the DTE gauge works. On HW trips mine will read alot higher on fillup, then when I drive normally.