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Chrysler 300M

17071737576507

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    sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Anyone put a hitch on their M? I shudder to think of it, but if someone found a clever way to hide one it would help me solve a bike transporation issue.

    Thanks in advance

    -Mike
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    denvermdenverm Member Posts: 358
    I saw one this morning on the back of an LHS. It looked just like the one in Av's photo. Don't know if all LHS's have it, or if this was an add-on.
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    rogor2krogor2k Member Posts: 385
    The Chrysler accessories catalog has one. Says it does not protrude beyond the bumper/fascia. 1-1/4" hitch receiver and tows up to 2000 lbs. List for the 300M is $238.25
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    bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    On tinting the windows. I agree with a figure of about $160 for a good shop to do it. Mike is also right on checking what the law in your state says on the % of light that must go through it. KY requires 35% except limos can be a lot darker. I opted to go with 35% in the visual areas of the side and back window but had a chrome on the lower 1/3 of the windows that fades to grey as it approaches head level. It can be seen on the photos Roger posted for me at #3232. I don't thing the darker tinting will necessarily get you stopped in and of itself, but it is a great pretext for the cop to use to stop the car and poke around for other violations. That is probably why Fuzzywuzzy got stopped in FLA. The car was "too hot" looking, and the cop was probably looking for drug runners and used the tint as a pretext to stop the car. When he saw nothing he wrote the ticket for tinting. Sad, but probably true.
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    phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    yeah i did it the other day just use some dental floss and 'saw' behind em....
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    funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    What's left behind on the car after you "saw" off the emblems?
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    kpm61kpm61 Member Posts: 35
    What brand and weight dose DC put in the 2001 300M ?
    How long did everyone run the factory oil ?
    When is it best to start useing synthetic oil ?

    Kevin
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    jgranatajgranata Member Posts: 70
    along those same lines...can someone tell me how
    difficult it is to remove and replace the oil filter on the 3.5...is it done from the top or the
    bottom and does the vehicle need to be raised if
    it's done from the bottom?...
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    beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Whoever asked, the Onyx Green is a lighter shade than the Shale Green. I have seen it on a Sebring and two T&C's. Here are the links:

    Sebring LXI

    T&C LXI

    T&C LX
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    denvermdenverm Member Posts: 358
    I first changed my oil at 3,750 (and same interval since). I don't use synthetic oil, but lots of folks do.

    It's quite difficult to get the filter off, UNLESS you use a plastic/nylon filter removal tool (slips onto the end of the filter, then you put a ratchet on it to turn it and the filter). It's easy with that tool.

    I remove the filter from under the car, without raising the car. The oil drain bolt is on the right side of the engine, not far behind the front frame, and it points sideways (toward the leading edge of the right front tire). Some people have had trouble removing the drain bolt, so make sure you use a good-fitting wrench!
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    beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    In addition to the Onyx Green information I posted above, the new Light Almond color is also available on the 300M. I'm not exactly sure what it looks like, but if you go to carsdirect.com and select the 300M and then click on colors, you will see all the current shades plus the two new ones.


    Carsdirect.com

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    scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
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    funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Any recommendations on how best to be rid of the sticky patches without damaging the paint?
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    rklassrklass Member Posts: 133
    A great product for removing leftover adhesive is "3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner", part #08984.
    It's safe on your car's finish, and does a terrific job removing tar spots too.
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    forresthforresth Member Posts: 34
    Last night in the chat at 300Mclub.org I asked if 30k was to much for a 2001. I have checked the TMV price from Edmunds, and several other online buying sites and this price doesn't look too high.

    SO... What do you think a fair price is for a 2001 with the perf. pack, 4 CD (360 watt-11 sp), moonroof, chrome over Al wheels, and side impact bags should be?

    The 30k price is OTR price after all taxes, tags and rebates. Please respond soon 'cause I got the buying bug BAD and I might buy at a Memorial Day tent sale .
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    easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    also, although I havent tried it on a car, I believe WD-40 will remove the residue--
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    ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    parked my M today and tried to lock it from about 10 feet away. Zero reaction.

    Tried my chin technique, it did not help either. The remote only worked when I was litterally on top of the car.

    I later realized that the M was parked under some high voltage lines (I could hear the "grasshopper sound" coming from the wires).

    That probably had something to do with the remote range.
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    panda11panda11 Member Posts: 5
    Okay guys, I need help, AGAIN. In #3473 fuzzywuzzy told me to make sure they use ATF+4 fluid. When I asked the service guy what he used, he said something like "Mopar MP3" (I forget exactly). I mentioned the ATF+4 and he said that in the Chrysler specs book it says the Mopar and that is what they go by. I found TSB #21-16-99 "New Automatic Transmission Fluid Usage (ATF+4 Type 9602)" listed on alldata (I did not see a way to order just that one bulletin). Does anyone know what this TSB says, or how I can obtain a copy? I am picking the car up tomorrow (Friday) and need the specifics to back me up.

    Also, there are two pieces of leather on the driver's seat that have cracking on the entire piece, and I asked this be replaced under warranty. They refused, saying it is normal wear and tear. I say it isn't. (The car is garage kept 100% of the time when not on the road, not even in an office parking lot 8 hours day/5 days week, as I work out of my home.) It is only those two pieces, nowhere else. They said the only thing they could do would be have a Chrysler rep look at it the next time they were in. I said okay, let's do that. He said the visits were never scheduled and that they never knew when one was to be there (did I mention that I purchased the car from this 5* dealer and that it is 50 miles from my home?). Suggestions???
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    lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    There was talk about the range of the remotes awhile back. I had a couple of times that the remote seemed to not work. I took apart the remote to check the condition of the batteries w/a volt meter. What I found was that the membrane switches used in the remote have an extremely small electrical contact area. The contact area is the same size for the larger lock and unlock buttons as it is for the smaller panic and trunk buttons. I noticed that the unlock and lock buttons need to be pushed directly on the silk screened area of the buttons, if you hit them off center the membrane swithes will not make contact and the function will not work. Being aware of this fact I have had very little trouble w/the remote; if I do not get a response from the remote, I just reposition my finger on the remote and it then works!

    I recall reading that Chrysler now has a new remote, mine is an early 2000 model. The power lines could definetly interfere w/the remote though.
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    jgoodsonjgoodson Member Posts: 30
    I had the same problem with my 5* dealer. I had the transmission serviced and they replaced the fluid with ATF3. The service manager questioned the need for ATF4 until I showed him the reference in the owner's manual which specifically says to use only ATF4. They changed it out to ATF4. Show him what the owner's manual says - he will have a hard time argunig with it.
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    scotianscotian Member Posts: 1,064
    Die-cast replicas has a very nice Chrysler Atlantic, but no 300M (I think they might have a 300C model). If enough of us request a 300M replica...


    http://www.playingmantis.com/jl/contact_us.php

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    300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I saw a Gran Prix that could be reground into a 300M from Hot Wheels :)
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    300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I ordered a wing (the same as in the front grill) for $18 including shipping from OEM_car_parts.com.
    I used Shoe Goo to attach it. The sucker is on there for good. Plus it gives you time to make adjustments.
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    sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    That car shouldn't cost you a dime over $29k, and I bet you can get it for $500 less than that. I plugged your information into Carsdirect.com and their system quoted me $29,092 after $2,500 rebate. You should do the same thing before you do anything else. That will give you a point of reference for negotiation with the dealer. Carsdirect will actually deliver the car to your door at that price. Also, do yourself a HUGE favor and go to www.carbuyingtips.com and read everything they have to say. Go to the dealer totally armed with information. I got my '01 M for $5,000 off MSRP by going in armed with information on the dealer's cost, service contracts, financing already set-up, trade-in value known, etc.

    Using the spreadsheet you can get at that website I figured that the MSRP on that car you're describing is about $33,400, with an invoice of around $31,000. If you simply took your rebate (assuming it's $2,500 where you are) off their invoice price you'd get down to $28,500. In that scenario the dealer makes their 3% holdback as profit, which is a more-than-fair $1,000. My dealer took a $250 profit because the stars were aligned (and I bought on the last day of the month). Another piece of advice...don't be afraid to walk out if you don't get what you want. Another dealer can usually get the exact same car you're looking at. Also, make sure the price is negotiated before you talk about trade-ins or financing. There's about 4 places they can make a profit, and it's in your best interest to not let them mix things together on you...like "here is what your payments will be", which hides the cost of the car, the trade-in value, and the interest rate into a blob that you can't unravel. Do it all one step at a time. :)

    Oh...another thing I'm glad I did was after getting the lowest cost from dealer #1 I called 3 other dealers and told them if they could beat the cost by $200 on the same car I'd buy it. When nobody would, I knew I was at the bottom. :)

    I hope this was helpful. This is a major purchase, don't go in uninformed and unarmed. Dealers sell cars every day and you're at a disadvantage right out of the blocks unless you do some homework.

    Mike
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    sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    ok..one last mod. On Monday I go in for my Llumar tint. In CA you can't tint the driver and passenger side windows at all, but I don't like the look of clear fronts and tinted backs. To ease the transition I've decided on putting 20% on the rear window and the back side, and 50% on the front sides. I hope the contrast, although not gigantic, will keep the cops off my rump. The five windows are costing me $199 with a lifetime guarantee. Of course, pictures will be taken (maybe even while they do it)

    Mike
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    300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Polished up the throttle body and installed it tonight. Fired up the car and it started and ran great. Will take it out tomorrow to do some testing and tranny relearning. Plus go shopping for even a better tranny cooler.
    I picked up some lovers off an old olds, may install them in the hood as an intake, in keeping with my lo profile look. I order some paint to do some touch up work, paint my lovers and a couple of other things I have found. I also have a old Ford Mustang hood scoop that I may try to trim down to fit the hood. My Idea is to use the scoop(s) for air intake and to cool the transmission. I will see which ever one system workes (and looks) the best.
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    300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    See, you got the bug. It is incureable:)
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    easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    the dealer used atf 3 when I brought my M in for a tranny change--and didnt flush it, just dropped pan which only changes about a third of the fluid. I made them redo it and they flushed the system completely and installed atf4--dont settle for less, your tranny calls for atf4--
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    easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    of that wing emblem on the car---would like to see it as I would consider doing that--also am considering putting the LHS 2" round emblems on the center of the wheels---I think race did this and they look very good--and race says they make his car gain at least 10 hp and .5 seconds on the quarter mile :-)

    Easyrider
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    sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Yeah, it's starting to look like that. ;) I'm actually considering removing all badging from the car. I've seen other models done that way and it looks very sharp. Not sure about the M though. Since I can always put them back on with Shoe Goo... :)
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    easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I believe you must mean louvers----not lovers---I havent made love on the hood of my car in many years :-)
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    ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    As of today the only new color is the onyx green, we have not painted any almond . I know you can get a minivan now in almond. Also the winged badge is for the LHS ,its official name is Winged Victory . I imagine you could take a hair dryer and heat it up to flatten it out as it does have a bow in it to fit the contour of the round trunk of the LHS. Yes it is only a sick on ,no holes need be drilled .WD-40 is great to remove sticker residue.
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    easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    could someone who owns a 2001 M , look up in the owners manual to see what type of tranny fluid they recommend--I read in the Allpar site that a new fluid was used for the 01's---is it different from atf4---

    someone mentioned using amsoil synthetic tranny fluid--anyone here use this and are you happy with the shifting--I would think synthetic would hold up to heat better than regular fluid--But I wonder if it could cause leaks--any comments?
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    99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    I have the Amsoil Universal Transmission Fluid. I'm happy with the shifting, and the transmission should be running cooler and the fluid can take up to around 400 deg F without breaking down. Service life is about 3 times normal tranny fluid, so get it flushed in and don't worry about changing it for quite awhile to never. I figure I will trade for a 300N before I reach 100K anyways.
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    bbraddockbbraddock Member Posts: 46
    I'm taking my 2000 in to my 5* next week for some minor issues. I'd like to have them take the Chrysler lettering off the sides of the doors as they are fading as many of you have experienced. Will they just do it if I ask, or will they give me the go around? Also my car pulls to the right, and the steering wheel shutters when stopping from higher speeds. My door jam kick board has rust in the middle of it, and for the life of me I can't figure out where it is coming from. Another thing, you all talked about Zaino, I got some from Sal over the net, and have put a bunch of 2, 5 and 6 on. I thought the 5 was to help take scratches out. While the car looks great from 15 feet, I still have a bunch of view able scratches up close. If I'm going to Detroit this summer to meet some of you, and can't go with scratches! Any advise would be appreciated.
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    fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    The 00 manual says ATF4, & The 00 factory service manual says ATF4. Now for the early 99's the owners manual says ATF3. Howerver this changed midway through the 99 model year. DC now recommends ATF4 in all years. It sounds like your dealer is just reading the wrong info the computer is telling him. It also sounds like they don't care about your concerns. I would try to find another dealer.
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    fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    I don't have that problem with my Viper alarm.......& it remote starts too :)
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    fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    The price before TAX, Tag etc is what everyone goes by. What is that price? Then you can gauge a better felling as to if your getting a good deal.
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    rschellerrscheller Member Posts: 42
    According to the written service record, my 5* put ATF3 in my 99 at the 30K service this January. When I saw that, and told them they'd made a mistake and should have used ATF4, they checked and sure enough they replaced it with ATF4 at their cost. Of course it was a waste of my time again. The 300M is a great car, I just wish the dealer service lived up to it.

    Rick
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    fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    bbraddock-

    Zaino is great, but it's not a miracle polish. If you've taken your car to car washes, the Z5 may not be enough to hide all those scratches. That's why we all say to use the Zaino from DAY ONE! You may need several coats of Z5 to hide the damage. Then again, you might need the 3M swirl/scratch remover that NAPA store sells. Don't forget those 100%, Made in AMERICA white, cotton towels.

    fastdriver
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    jgranatajgranata Member Posts: 70
    in fairfield county connecticut there's a dealer
    advertising a 300m with sunroof and chrome wheels
    for 24490...don't know colors or number of cars
    available at that price...
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    fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    I cheat I use 100%, Made in AMERICA Blue cotton towels :)
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    fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    fuzzywuzzy-

    LOL... I have some of those too! I don't think the blue towel makes much difference on red anyway. I just know that my car always looks great with the Zaino on it.

    I made a movie of my car yesterday. I'll put the link in my profile if it will work. It's pretty funny. Seems to work better on slower MHz computers because the pics don't fly by so fast.

    Have a good weekend. DON'T speed! ;-)))

    fastdriver
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    bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    300Michael. Did the wing emblem part you ordered from OEM parts have to be bent or anything or was it flat enough to go right on? I went thru all the other Chrysler vans, etc. on their web site and could not find the wings emblem. If the front wing from the 300M grill will lie flat I may go with that if the dealer can't id a set of wings from looking at the pic Avalance sent me.
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    tj300mtj300m Member Posts: 31
    I have a Johnny Lightning "American Chrome" 1955 Chrysler c-300 dicast car. I could probably get my hands on a few more if anybody is interested.

    TJ
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    fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    9nafecar-

    As soon as I saw this screen name I KNEW it HAD to be you! LOL... I can't wait to take some new pics so I can make another movie! This weekend I'll do it when I'm in NH. Not supposed to rain there like it has been in CT since Tuesday!

    I know I have mentioned this before, but it still amazes me. When I had Christine, IF I saw ONE 300M around here a week, that was a lot. Now I see at least 2-3 a DAY! I STILL stare! ;-))

    fastdriver
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    avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    u gotta link on that bad boy?
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    avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    i'll take mucha mucha pics later, its raining out :(


    image

    no handle, muahahaahaha, i should be getting me selanoid kit in soon, but they are real tuff to put it, takes forever...oh yea, no accent line either, filled that in...

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    tj300mtj300m Member Posts: 31
    The Manual states:

    CAUTION- Using a transmission fluid other than ATF+4 may cause deterioration in transmission shift quality and/or torque converter shudder. Using a transmission fliud other than ATF+4 will result in more frequent fluid and filter changes."
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    tj300mtj300m Member Posts: 31
    WING!!!!!!!!!!!!
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