Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair



  • jcbonfjcbonf Posts: 1
    I drove my 1988 Pathfinder from San Diego to Phoenix in July, Started out around noon.(113 degree day) I was fully loaded (Wife and two kids) , and hauling a trailer full of camping gear. After flying across the desert at 85 MPH with no problems, I got home, and several hours later the left side passenger seat was a smouldering ruin. I replaced the vehicle with another 1988 pathfinder, but my wife is understandably nervous about more long trips. Any possible suggestions as to the cause?

  • Greetings to all, first time here for me.

    I just bought an '89 Pathy SE. Have been having a problem with it idling at 2k rpm at start then fluctuating between 1500 and 2000 rapidly after warmed up. I was thinking it might be a vacuum leak but have no idea for sure yet. Soon as I can get a service manual will be figuring it out, thought I would see if anyone knows alredy though.

    Love this truck even with that problem.
  • jfbclujfbclu Posts: 7
    I recently bought a used 2001 PF SE. My first question is it looks likes many other people have had a problem with the Bose in-dash CD changer. Mine worked for about a week and now shows the error 02 message and doesn't work. Since this is out of warranty I'm hoping there is an easy (cheap) fix for this. Also, the front windshield washer stopped working when the fluid level got low. I filled the washer fluid tank and the back washer works fine but the front one still doesn't work. I cleaned out the front jets but it made no difference. Is there a separate pump for the front or does the one pump work both the front and the back? I tried to locate the pump but couldn't find it without taking out the front right wheel well liner. Any suggestions for either of these problems? Thanks.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Bose CD: There is no fix except to send the unit back to Clarion to rebuild. I had that done. They just replace the whole radio unit and not just the CD changer. I have not heard of a possible DIY fixes. The dealer I think charges $1600 for the complete Bose radio so a aftermarket head unit would be a lot cheaper and a lot better. Bose speakers might have ohm compatibility issues, check out, they are really great at finding the perfect match and helping you install it.

    Washer Motors: At least your rear one works. It should be separate from front pump. I try to look into this. Try to check if the fuses are out and if anything is clogging the lines.
  • jfbclujfbclu Posts: 7
    Thanks, but can't say I'm too excited about the cost on the Bose. Sounds like getting something new might be a better option. Is there one or two pumps for the washer fluid and where the he@# at they? How do you get to them (or it as the case may be)?
  • I found this site in my travels to find info for my own problems. It might be of some interest to you. It may not be cheap but it could end up cheaper than a new cd player.
  • I have a 1997 PF 5 speed with 105 K miles. I want to keep it for a long while yet, but want to minimize the chances of getting stuck. It has recently had new timing belt, alternator, battery, clutch, muffler, struts, shocks, belts and hoses. I change the oil every 4K or so and it does not burn a drop. I recently got stuck for the first time ever when the alternator failed and I was running off the battery (strangely, the ABS idiot light came on but not the charging system light). I am trying to anticipate what might go wrong next and fix it before it happens. My guess would be trouble with the fuel system or cooling system (I do change the coolant and fuel filter every year). I was thinking of replacing the fuel pump, but saw a post suggesting that the pressure regulator is likely to go first. No sign of trouble at this stage with either component.

    Any thoughts - what's likely to go next on a vehicle with this many miles, and will it fail gradually or without warning?

    Thanks in advance to you auto experts out there.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Posts: 203
    Is it a straightforward job or does it require an experienced hand?
  • Hi- new member here- I own a 94 XE-V6, very reliable up to now. I went to start it yesterday & the dash/lights/radio/ came on, so I don't think it's the battery. There was a rapid machine-gun like noise(not loud)as long as I turned the key, then a hissing sound by the gas cap (rear pssgr side) for 5-10 secs after releasing the key. Alternator? Ignition? Help!

    I washed the car yesterday- water in somewhere it shouldnt be?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    If it didn't turn over, the clicking is the starter solonoid trying to engage. You should notice everything else go off (any interior lights, radio, etc.) when you try to start it. The battery is indeed dead. It has enough "residual charge" to operate lights and the radio when you are not trying to start it. Charge the battery for a few hours and try to start it again.
  • It didnt turn over, I tried jumping it using my wife's Saturn, to no avail. I just replaced the XE-V6 battery in May. I do have a charger I'll set up & see what happens. But what explains the brief hissing from near the gas cap?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    The fuel tank pressurizes itself when the ignition is on. It is supposed to be released by a valve to the carbon filter. On my Pathfinder, it sort of moans.
  • Battery fully charged- it starts! Thanks pathstar1!
  • It is straight forward. I sprayed the sensor with "liquid wrench" to loosen some rust and the rest was just pressure applied with a wrench.
    It is a 3 wire sensor that runs along the transmission and ends to a connector on the right of the vehicle. Make sure the wires are tied away from the right exhaust pipe.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Now you know smaller cars can't really jump larger cars because their batteries do not have enough amps to draw from. Have your Pathy checked out at the place you bought the battery or Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. They will check your charging system for free. You might have a defective battery and hopefully not a bad alternator. Replace it under warranty if needed. Good luck!
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Sounds like you are the auto expert. I think you have everything covered as far as maintenance. As long as your fuel pump is taken care of (fuel filter, PCV valve changes, and fuel treament), it should last a long time. Your car is relatively new. I had '88 Nissan truck and sold it in 1999, it ran great. Only had the starter replaced.

    Now I have a 2001 Pathy w/ 37K with no mechanical problems at all.
  • I have a 1991 Pathfinder. It was in a front end collision, was still operational (radiator damage). Also had some body damage. Replaced radiator, fenders, etc... disconnected the battery, welded some, etc. Now will not run. Will start if gas is sprayed directly into the intake (via a spray bottle), but otherwise will not run on it's own. Checked pressure in the fuel rail - seems to be good according to specs in manual. I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this? It ran fine before the body work and radiator replacement.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    You mentioned welding and disconnecting the battery. Sounds like your computer may not be working. Check for blown fuses, both inside the engine bay and under the dash.
  • Hi we're in the market for our very first mid-size SUV. Contemplating buying new vs used. Anyone have any unbiased opinions on the Toyota 4Runner vs the Nissan Pathfinder? Also we're in Iowa and both vehicles seem to be in short supply. Can anyone recommend a good website to find both? Thanks.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    This discussion in SUVs would be the best place to ask comparison questions for those two models.

    03 4Runner vs QX4, Pathfinder, Other - Longevity and Quality

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • I got information from someone online, possible ignition coil, I changed ignition coil still no start, engine tries to start, but will not run, no codes in ECU, code 55 is normal Ecu operation, looking at service manual, tried different checks, spray fuel into intake and engine runs fine, fuel pressure while spraying fuel into intake meets specs, was reading in manual oil pressure sensor could cause no start problems, noticed while start attemp oil light in dash is not on, does oil pressure sending unit and dash light worked together, if it does could not find sending unit in manual location on engine, please contact me at or post a message on the board.
  • I've been experiencing a front end "clunk" on my '96- seems to be coming only from the right side. Reproducible by bouncing the right front end up and down, but I can't pinpoint the origin of the clunk. Sounded like a bum strut, replaced them but noise is still there. Can you clarify for me what you mean by sway bar linkage? You talking about the rubber bushings, or the linkage with the lower arms?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Check the link connecting the strut to the swaybar. (See pic here.) Also check the bushing on the swaybar itself, where it attaches to the frame. You may need to remove the plastic splash guard to access it. If there is wiggle room in any of these parts you should replace them.

    Both parts are quite easy to replace yourself, if you're good with hand tools and are comfortable working on your truck yourself. The link requires a 17mm box wrench and an allen key to remove it. The swaybar bushing requires a bit more work because you have to place the truck on jackstands, but you need only remove 4 14mm bolts to replace the bushing.
  • Hi, all. New to board so forgive my double post. I'm looking at a 1997 fully-loaded Pathy with 4 WD and 76,000 miles for $6900. It is very clean. Checks out on Carfax. Runs well. Pep Boys visual inspection shows nothing major BUT the check engine light is on! And Pep Boys says that could mean ANYTHING and that diagnosis could cost several hundred dollars.

    Thing is, according to Edmunds and other sites, this truck is way below retail market by about $1500-3000. And it's being sold by a Ford dealer.

    I am SO tempted to take the risk but what I really want to know is is what do you think the odds are that it is something serious? I know nothing about its history at all.

    One more thing. The driver's side passenger door is really stiff. The vin on the door matches the vin on the dash. And I can't see anything to suggest that the door was repaired or replaced. There is no paint overspray, mismatch, etc. And the door doesn't creak or grown, it's just stiff. Any idea why?

    I am salivating over this truck, but I'm going to have to buy it as is. Want to decide in the next day or so. After 3 weeks of looking, this is the first nice one I've seen.

  • I just bought a really nice 2000 Pathfinder 4x4. Everything works really well on it except the power windows. All of them roll up and down very slowly, especially in cold weather.

    The reason why I am concerned about this is that I just had to spend 220.00 to fix a broken window motor on my 1990 Maxima. Is this a common problem with Pathfinders? Is there anything I should do about this, or just wait and see if it gets any worse?
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Without a visual inspection I can only hypothesize that it has been in a serious accident that left the frame damaged. Damaged enough to bend the frame which would result in a "stiff" door. If the rear or front end checks out ok then maybe it was hit from the side. Look underneath the car and pay particular attention to pieces or panels not fitting properly. Possibly not only the engine will be troublesome but the body and frame as well.

    Good body work can cover up an acident but will not completely hide one. Look for rust and pieces with paint overspray (underneath car). If the dealer knows about any damage then they would try to get rid of the car as quick as possible. They don't always tell the truth so take their explanations with a grain of salt.

    If you can live with slight damage then you can further negotiate a lower price (that would explain the already reduced price). Have the alignment checked out. Proceed with caution.

    I learned the hard way from a previous Nissan truck purchase. It ran fine but had problems that could not be fixed such as body rust and frame damage (really bad alignment, could not be fixed properly and all other problems stemming from frame damage)

    You can problably negotiate a Lemon Busters inspection if the dealer wants your business.

    Good luck.
  • Thanks for the advice, but 2 HOURS after I left the dealer--at 5:30 pm, it was sold! The salesman called and left me a message. I felt like I'd been punched in the stomach! It really did seem perfect except for the above, but I could not figure out why a dealer was selling so cheaply.

    It makes me feel a LOT better to think I avoided a problem as opposed to having walked away from a cream puff. The last thing my Negative Nelly sister said as I reluctantly pulled out of the lot was, "Relax! What do you think they're going to do, sell it tonight?" LOL!

    And I had had such a hard time finding trucks in my price range. Oh, well. I'm sure I'll find one eventually...
  • phil47phil47 Posts: 394
    Had the same problem on my 2001 LE. Dealer fixed it (adjusted regulator?) and it works great now. Try a search of this forum (or the main comment forum) for details.
  • Thanks for your advice. It's good to know that an adjustment can fix the problem.
  • drvicdrvic Posts: 1
    I own an 87 Pathfinder with a new problem! After a little fun in the desert using 4x4, I noticed a new noise after putting it back into 2... A rattling/grating noise. Put it back into 4, noise goes away. Took a look under the truck, and it looks like the half-shaft on the passenger side is very loose. I can move it up and down a bit and even in and out a bit. Is it broken, or missing some sort of retainer? I am fairly mechanically adept, just never ran across this one before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Sign In or Register to comment.