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Comments
My present tooling level would see me be able to handle 100% of the mechanical demands on your Mini, and somewhere in the 70%-80% of the computer, and especially software oriented issues that the dealer can. It would cost me well over $20K to close that gap, which BTW would have the benefit of also granting me the same capability with BMW. The cost to renew each year after the initial investment would then run some $7K a year. The real problem is there would never be enough of them for me to justify that additional expense if I chose to open the shop back up full time.
There's the warranty work, and then there is the repair work.
The problems that arise from warranty work are more often than not, more the creation of the car manufacturer and the dealership owner than the dealer's technicians.
The problems that arise from repair work, either at the dealership or at an independent shop are more often than not, the product of poor communication on the part of the shop and unrealistic expectations on the part of the car owner. And of course, there is that certain percentage that we chalk up to greed, incompetence, or both.
The auto repair business is evolving rapidly and the only bright future I see for anyone who enjoys life as an auto technician is to specialize.
To draw a crude parallel, the GP in the medical field makes the least money and is the least content, whilst the medical specialists seem to fare a good deal better.
The picture that I would need them to paint for me is exactly what is going on when the symptom generally occurs. I want to rule in, or rule out if engine torque/vibration is a factor which would tend to indicate if a wiring harness abrasion is plausible or not.
I would advise against any speculation of a potential charging system issue or similar possible cause until testing provided data that would guide someone in that direction. To answer the question as asked however it would seem unlikely, very unlikely.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://papers.sae.org/2013-01-1298/
As to this quote in the paper:
"Original equipment (OE) catalytic converters are designed to last the life of properly tuned and maintained vehicles. "
All I can say for Mini owners is: DON'T WE WISH
Thanks for the thoughts on the fuse popping at 4500 rpm. I will convey these questions to the owner because I'm very curious about this problem. It's one of those weird car events that is intriguing to solve.
I'd say that was about average (or better) that most any industry, except perhaps for physicians who typically have three years of clinical residency.
That Wyotech place was a diploma place - the feds were shutting the parent company down last year when they filed banko and completely shut down all their "campuses".
Do you want your kid to do hard physical labor for $14 an hour or code for $14?
The second comment has this gem: "Most shops still pay based on the flat rate system which should be illegal."
I'm looking forward to the class action suits by owners of cars under warranty who can't get their cars fixed timely at the dealer due to lack of techs.
Robotic plug and play may have to be the future, wrenching seems like time intensive dead end.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Here is what that poster needs to do for the first step of the analysis of his vehicle problem. You won't find this in a book. Nobody has ever taught to do this.
Which fuse are you pulling to shut this down? How accurate is your voltmeter? The reason I ask that is the first step of this is to prove if you are opening the circuit that is using false power, or the one that is creating the false power to keep the car running.
First identify which fuse block terminal is the one that feeds power to the fuse key on engine off. (KOEO) With the problem occurring you need to measure across the fuse contacts with your volt meter's lowest setting. You will get a very small voltage, something on the order of 4.0mv ( .0040) or less in most cases. What is important for this first step is the polarity of the voltage in relationship to which connection for the fuse gets normal system power. Put the positive lead of your meter to the connection that should have power and the negative lead to the one that the fuse protects. Now is your meter reading a positive voltage, or a negative voltage?
A positive voltage means that power is being input to that fuse from another circuit that shares the same output from the ignition switch. A negative voltage indicates that the problem is being created by a failure on that protected circuit. This starts to narrow down which circuits need to be tested further and which ones don't.
On the other hand, charging a good and regular customer to just tell them what the CEL means is outrageous. It must take all of 3 minutes to plug in a scanner and say "P0456. No biggie...you can take the kids to school and come back next week and we'll look into it".
I don't understand why you wouldn't tag onto someone's coattails. That's what dealer techs do - there's a non-stop flow of information about issues and how people have figured out ways to fix the issues. Some of those tech notes wind up being TSBs. Seems kind of negligent not to see if a similar problem has a fix, especially if it's something the tech hasn't seen before. Wouldn't that be part of the diagnostic process?
For the indy shops, Alldata is full of tech tips that mechanics send in.
Also, the indy shops that specialize in different makes often do referrals back and forth, and if they are close enough, freely exchange tools or literature. Naturally, this doesn't occur among strangers.
As far as only being able to rely on TSB's or answers from another source do we have to link GM's Stabilitrak complaints here? Or any of the other threads and posts that describe multiple visits, and parts replaced that failed to fix a given vehicle no matter how many times it was the answer on others? Tossing parts like that is where tagging someone else's coat tails leads. Expecting someone to do that discourages the tech from being disciplined and finding their own way.
All of your "successful shop" examples are nice but how many stories would be told if we talked to the employee's both present and past that worked to build someone else's dream?
Techs are being punished, cheated and harassed all of the time, all across the country and it needs to be brought out into the open in order to change things. Everyone notices the results, especially when it leads to force the techs to oversell in order to try and turn enough hours that they don't lose their jobs. Which of course when someone finally does complain and/or catch them it costs them their job anyway only to have someone new step into the same trap.
I don't know how people like Dave work with difficult problems. He's very smart, so I guess he does his best. I know he wouldn't charge if he failed. I suspect he picks and chooses, and is probably too generous with his time. Given what I see in his shop, I think he knows his strengths and weaknesses.
BTW, the polarity of the voltage drop across the fuse thing. I have never seen that discussed nor mentioned before. Electricity has been around a long time and understanding voltage drop in a circuit is a requirement for any electrical/electronics technician. We even use voltage drop across the fuse for parasitic drain testing to identify the circuit that has the draw, but that exact use that I posted this morning came out of the blue, right at the moment that I was thinking about that particular vehicle problem. I posted it as a technician training aid right after I wrote it here and it has created quite a stir among the educators that frequent the forum I posted it on.
Soooo, Doc's idea of checking the polarity of the current at the fuse pulled by the owner to stop the car was----a clever idea I thought--even though I didn't think of that part.
I had the notion that perhaps voltage was bleeding through a diode in the alternator. Hey, why not?
Searching for a similar problem, especially if it's new to me, would be way high up in my diagnostic flowchart.
You kind of make it sound like you reinvent the wheel every time someone pulls into the shop. I have this image of you pulling out your code reader to check the TPMS light (and charging someone shop time) when a casual glance at the tires will give you ample visual indication that one of them is flat.
Seems to me that if a car came in with a flat (my initial scenario), I'd check that before checking the sensors.
Now, if someone came in with the TPMS light on, I'm still going to check the tires first before hooking up a scan tool.
And if the light is on and all the tires are within spec (including the spare, if any) and nothing is throwing a code on my super-deluxe up to date factory reader, yeah, I think I'll log on and see if anyone else has experienced the issue before I run up a three hour diagnostic tab only to find out that some tech in Vermont already figured out that a pallet of bad sensors got sent to the factory for three weeks in June and fail without triggering a code and otherwise pass the usual tests in the flow chart.
That happens with real docs by the way. My wife had a doc look up skin conditions on Google to verify a diagnosis of lyme disease. I'd think it'd make more sense for a tech seeing a new problem to go online before getting deep in the diagnostic chart and going down every yes/no branch for an hour or two. If you don't tag onto someone's coattails, all that dogged persistence doing the diagnostics "by the book" either, as you said, gets you paid .3 hours - or the customer takes it in the shorts.
In the consumer computer world, it's a waste of time to read the manual. If I get a BSOD or want to know how to change Word to shrink-to-fit print mode, I get online because someone, somewhere has likely already experienced the problem and maybe has a fix. And computer setups are as unique as cars, if not more so - if you're online the advertisers can ID your specific computer just from the hardware components and software installed.
Seems like you said you get shops contacting you for help with the tricky stuff. Don't want to make assumptions but I assume you gather some info and ask the other tech if they checked x, y and z. That's the equivalent of "getting online".
Sooooo, I went online to see if anyone else has dealt more imaginatively with this issue, and lo and behold, there's a YouTube video with a guy tucking a piece of foam rubber behind the latch catch.
Could it be THAT simple I thought? I tried it. It works perfectly, and has continued to for two years.
Cost? Maybe .05 cents.
Ditto that with my Dodge Truck. The ABS light goes on and the speedometer quits. Hmmm....that can't be a coincidence.....go online, and found out about a speed sensor in the differential housing of all places. I even found a video that told me how to fix it, and what tools I needed.
Parts: $14 at Rockauto includes a new harness
Labor: 20 minutes
I am seriously....SERIOUSLY...considering building an older simpler car, like a Volvo 122S, and putting in vintage AC. I can fix anything on that car. I am a 100% fully qualified Volvo technician circa 1966! I will be the CarDoc of SU carburettors, pushrod engines, and ignition points.
Free at last! No more a hostage to computers and nanny gadgetry. My only homage to modern cars would be the basic safety features of seat belts and radials and better lighting.
Old cars drive... like old cars.
The new Tesla is has been revealed and it sounds like Elon is trying to stick to his $35,000 list price.