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Comments
fowler3
Everyone always said I had a loose screw, and it took a VW mechanic to finally find it after all these years!
Wooo-hooo!!!! ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM
Meadeball
WHERE THE HECK DID EVERYBODY GO???
Meade
When is the air filter on the Pro due to be changed? 48 000 km? Can't recall off the top of my head.
Am I correct, hosehead?
;-)
Meade
Besides, I can't see how a nuclear winter could be that much worse than the regular winters in Canada.
Todd, you ever notice your Pro acting differently in your winters?
;-)
Meade
Meade
Meade
The death rattle I heard (in that file) was absolutely brutal. It sounded like the car was shaking apart. I know I don't have that for sure.
I do notice one end gets dirtier first. Since I'm cheap, I turned the filter around and replaced it when it looked evenly dirty. Probably not the best thing for performance.
Meade
Meade
Nuclear winter is when it snows for days, it's HOT, but the snow doesn't melt. Everything else does.
fowler3
I would ask that question over in the "store bought waxes Part II - No zaino posts" forum here at Townhall. They have some very knowledgeable people over in that area of TH.
In regards to the low fuel light, mine comes on with about 8 L left in the tank.
Also, the other part of what I wanted to say concerned Russell Mazda (and VW, Toyota, Subaru and BMW). I bought and have had my car serviced at Russell Mazda and had a good experience with the service department there on the Mazda side, even though it was just an oil change. I've also dealt with Congressional Mazda (they also sell VW's, what's up with that connection?!), and they're Mazda service is good as well.
My point, is that I think its the dealer more than the brand. You might get extra pampering if you drive a BMW, Mercedes, or Audi. But basically the Mazda and VW competes in a similar market currently, and I think its the dealership that makes the difference. Also, VW/Audi has taken quite a bit of flack for poor dealer networks. They've really been popular these last couple of years, and the dealerships can't keep up with the service demand. I just read that on an Audi enthusiast site, and it makes sense.
Also, mandatory pro content, its running great, and I washed and waxed it last weekend.
Steve
newcar31, chicagopro re: my rust bucket from awhile back. Two body shops said the same thing-brakedust corrosion from the roads. First I ever heard of that. Another bloody enviro-hazard to put up with. Two different suggestions from Meguiars. 1) Clay with Quick-Detailer and 2) Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner. A third from the body shop was rubbing compound (done by hand) followed by polishing compound followed by carnuba wax. Rubbing compound makes me real nervous, clay somewhat less nervous... Would someone who's used clay or rubbing compounds please advise me on these two products. Many thanks.
Dennis
A rubbing compound is used to remove light surface scratches/imperfections.
To use clay, you spray a lubricant (many prefer a quick detailer type of product)on the surface you are going to work on, and the lightly rub the clay over the surface, frequently folding it into itself to expose a clean surface. After you do this, feel the paint. It should be smooth to the touch, otherwise there is still surface contamination. You should at least wax after claying.
A rubbing compound is something I also hesitate to use and therefore haven't. I think it would be very easy to rub too much and get yourself into trouble (ie. create more scratches).
Paul ... (dare I bring this up -- Pat's "Meade & Paul Warning Light" just lit up, lol) -- sorry to hear the Jetta will be spending MAPP in the shop. Believe it or not (and I know you know I'm being honest for once), I really wanted to see your car to understand more why you're so passionate about it. Oh well, I've been wanting to take a closer look at the New (?) Beetle too. What color is the one you're driving? If it's yellow, my wife's gonna melt -- I had a hard time talking her out of one when we were shopping for the P5.
To all -- Paul and I like going nose to nose on stuff. I don't know why; maybe we're kindred spirits when it comes to a good debate. We aren't ever (at least I know I'm not) mad at each other. You oughta see some of the e-mails we send each other sometimes, at the same time we're duking it out here. In respect to the Member Agreement and our poor Pat who's trying to stop smoking (i.e. tension level running in the red, understandably), I am voluntarily moving our debates. We're gonna try the Protege Posse topic first, and if they don't like us there, we'll find somewhere else or maybe just go to private e-mails. Things are too fun here to mess up the Protege topic. We'll just have to watch how we communicate with each other, because it doesn't take much -- as you've probably noticed -- to start us up! The moment we see a need to debate, we'll post where we're taking it. So you can all come along and have a great time watching us.
Valve clatter -- nope guys, I'm honest. I specifically listened for it this morning. My engine starts very smoothly and quietly -- after the starter finishes its "ditditditdit" and it turns over, that is! You guys who are experiencing it aren't by chance starting your cars with your foot on the accelerator, are you? Just a thought --
One more thing, to those of you who are coming to MAPP -- we still have a few odds and ends -- not much -- that we need to bring. In particular, I need someone to volunteer to pick up and bring four or five packs of hot dogs. I'd get them, but I'm already bringing everything but the kitchen sink. There's a list of what's needed in the latest update on the Yahoo group (message number 2420). Thanks.
Everybody have a great day!
Meade
:-)
Meade
Oh, happy day.
--Dale
In my area (don't know about yours, but guessing it is similar), a Pro ES sedan should go for right around invoice. In other words, MSRP around here would be too much to pay, let alone $20,000! (IMO of course)
2.0L Engine Noise
This is what Mazda has to say about it, I think we should push them to come up with a fix faster, come on it has been a problem since the middle of 2000! What do you think? I would like someone to explain the jargon that they use VTCS plates? what are there function? What does ECT stand for and what is its function? Also they use the term "believed" to be the problem which means they are not sure or are trying to limit their responsability!
The dealer noted the noise and gave me a bulliten from Mazda.
Category: B Piston Engine
Repair Reference # 3562
Subject: 2.0L Engine noise with cold coolant temp
ALL 2.0L between 2001-2002 are affected
Customer may experience an engine rattle under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temps below 149 deg F and engine rpm's between 1500 to 2500.
Confirm noise only occurs within the VTCS ( Variable Tumble Control System) operation "valve closed" period (when ECT is below 149 deg F)
This noise is currently believed to be the result of the timing between VTCS plates "opening", and the ignition spark advanc command. This is an operating characteristic of this engine and no repair attempts should be made. Although the noise is present only during cold start up and disappears once the engine coolant reaches 149 degrees F, Mazda realizes that it is an annyance to some customers and its engineers are investigating possible countermeasures in an effort to address customer satisfaction.
Sounds like they are trying to get away from a recall and a problem that will or will not (they don't know)cause damage during warranty!
jcilforever
I know for sure that I don't have the noise that they're talking about. I've read the complaints, and I would be going nuts if it afflicted my Pro.
What do you mean "if"? After reading the post above, it appears that all 2001-2002 vehicles are affected and if it doesn't affect ALL 2.0L vehicles, then something is wrong.
Customer may experience an engine rattle
I think Mazda is saying that it only happens in the '01-02 engines, and in those engines it may happen in some.
If I have the problem (ie. I don't have the sound), then I'm happy!! That sound is utterly horrifying!