That's too funny. I don't mind having a loaner, because it gives me a chance to drive something different (I always have liked the Beetles) while my car's in the shop. It's also cool to be able to put mileage on someone else's car for awhile instead of mine. Since my car has been in the shop (not out yet either), I have put a total of 2000 miles on the loaners I have had. I am going to Chicago in a week, so maybe I will be lucky and be able to take the loaner instead of my car. We shall see. I know I will be bringing the Beetle to MAPP, which sucks. I really, really wanted to show my Jetta to you all. I will bring pics though, if that helps.
Turns out the rattle in the dashboard was a loose screw in the side defroster vent. I heard the noise coming from there, but didn't say anything about it because I was not sure.
Everyone always said I had a loose screw, and it took a VW mechanic to finally find it after all these years!
48 000 km is pretty dang close to 30 000 miles. I thought the air filter was due pretty much after 2 years, I just wanted to double check. Thanks Meade...Now take off, eh?
But I must admit, for 12 bucks, I'm gonna be changing my air filter every 10,000 miles! You wouldn't believe how dirty mine was. Even completely clogged in one corner. You'd think I'd been off-roading in my Protege. Couldn't believe ANY air was making it to the engine. There were some nasty little critters in there too! Poor bugs ...
Actually the other reason was, and this is gonna sound weird, that I felt like my Pro wasn't breathing as well as it could when I've taken it out for a drive the last week or so. I keep on meaning to check the air filter, but keep on forgetting.
I hesitated for a few months because I thought there was more to it than what there is. (My previous vehicle, a 1994 B2300, required a stupid socket driver to remove the air filter housing.) You just unsnap two clips, pull open the housing, slip the old one out, wipe out the housing, and slip the new one in. Took all of two minutes in the driveway. And they even left enough slack in the MAF sensor harness so I didn't have to unplug anything!
That's all I thought it would be. I was actually thinking of changing to a K&N filter just for a little difference in sound in the engine..not that I don't like the engine now. Just a little change would be interesting to try.
No different than any of the other cars I've had in the winter....meaning that when you first start it, it sounds like the head is going to blow right off the engine. Clatter, clatter, clatter. I hear some people call this the Protege "death rattle". I call it normal as my Prelude and Integra both sounded horrid when cold.
I don't think so. My pro is pretty quiet when I turn the engine on. And, like I said, I listened to that file somebody had posted....it was highly noticeable.
Ok....I'm not sure what a valve train clatter sounds like, but my car doesn't make any unusual bangs, hisses, etc. What does a valve train clatter sound like anyway???
The death rattle I heard (in that file) was absolutely brutal. It sounded like the car was shaking apart. I know I don't have that for sure.
Depends on how dusty it is around you. I usually replace mine every 10-12,000 miles. The manual says to inspect every 15,000 and replace every 30,000, but there's a lot of construction dust and pollen around here. Apparently, Meade is surrounded by swarms of bugs.
I do notice one end gets dirtier first. Since I'm cheap, I turned the filter around and replaced it when it looked evenly dirty. Probably not the best thing for performance.
And believe me, after owning a B2300 built by Ford, I KNOW what valve clatter sounds like. Plagued me the whole time I owned the piece of junk. And no, neither the 2000 ES nor the 2002 Protege5 do it at startup or any other time. For that matter, neither of my 92s did either. Maybe it's related to humidity or something -- it's very humid down here in Virginia.
It's very humid here in the summer too. My car doesn't "clatter" that bad, but you can hear it. Pro-fan, valve train clatter sounds kinda like a diesel engine and should only happen for a couple seconds immediatly after you start it. I don't know how Meade's car doesn't do it, maybe Meade has some kind of super duper oil pump that gets oil to the head nano seconds after the engine is fired.
I would ask that question over in the "store bought waxes Part II - No zaino posts" forum here at Townhall. They have some very knowledgeable people over in that area of TH.
In regards to the low fuel light, mine comes on with about 8 L left in the tank.
Meade-I've waited until the last minute in hopes I could do both, but its not going to work out. Unfortunately I will not be able to attend MAPP this time around. I'm definately up for it in the fall if we decide to do it. I'm having a bachelor party for a friend that Saturday, and I was stuck with the date because its the only date he was free.
Also, the other part of what I wanted to say concerned Russell Mazda (and VW, Toyota, Subaru and BMW). I bought and have had my car serviced at Russell Mazda and had a good experience with the service department there on the Mazda side, even though it was just an oil change. I've also dealt with Congressional Mazda (they also sell VW's, what's up with that connection?!), and they're Mazda service is good as well.
My point, is that I think its the dealer more than the brand. You might get extra pampering if you drive a BMW, Mercedes, or Audi. But basically the Mazda and VW competes in a similar market currently, and I think its the dealership that makes the difference. Also, VW/Audi has taken quite a bit of flack for poor dealer networks. They've really been popular these last couple of years, and the dealerships can't keep up with the service demand. I just read that on an Audi enthusiast site, and it makes sense.
Also, mandatory pro content, its running great, and I washed and waxed it last weekend.
Try calling Meguiar's at (800) 347-5700. They have a help line (tech support) that I've found helpful in the past. Their products are pretty decent.
newcar31, chicagopro re: my rust bucket from awhile back. Two body shops said the same thing-brakedust corrosion from the roads. First I ever heard of that. Another bloody enviro-hazard to put up with. Two different suggestions from Meguiars. 1) Clay with Quick-Detailer and 2) Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner. A third from the body shop was rubbing compound (done by hand) followed by polishing compound followed by carnuba wax. Rubbing compound makes me real nervous, clay somewhat less nervous... Would someone who's used clay or rubbing compounds please advise me on these two products. Many thanks. Dennis
I've never actually used clay but as I understand it, the clay's function is to remove surface contaminants. If used correctly, it is non-abrasive.
A rubbing compound is used to remove light surface scratches/imperfections.
To use clay, you spray a lubricant (many prefer a quick detailer type of product)on the surface you are going to work on, and the lightly rub the clay over the surface, frequently folding it into itself to expose a clean surface. After you do this, feel the paint. It should be smooth to the touch, otherwise there is still surface contamination. You should at least wax after claying.
A rubbing compound is something I also hesitate to use and therefore haven't. I think it would be very easy to rub too much and get yourself into trouble (ie. create more scratches).
I went to the Mazda dealer near me and I saw a protege for the first time and now I want one. They had a silver ES with a manual, premium package, alarm, wheel locks, and 6 disc in dash changer. There was a sale price in the window that said $15,495. I went back the next week to test drive it and the sale sign was gone and the price of the car is now $20,000. And I got there 1 minute after they had closed so I didn't get to drive it. I have to sell my truck before I can buy a new car. But I don't want to pay $20,000 for this car. I am guessing that mazda had some kind of rebate and I was wondering if it is still going on and when it ends? I would really love this car it has everything I want. But I was looking for a used car in the $14,000 range and I don't want to pay any more than $15,500 for a car.
Steve, sorry to hear you can't make it. It's sad seeing a few of the folks I'm really fond of (you and Larry, to name a couple) not able to make it to the picnic. However, having done this three times now, I've learned it's just not possible to fit EVERYBODY'S schedule. Like I said yesterday, we've got just about twice as many cars and people as MAPP II last October, so it's gonna be fun. (Geesh, if we keep this rate going and MAPP IV has twice as many folks as this one, we're gonna have to start looking into renting convention centers ... ROFL!)
Paul ... (dare I bring this up -- Pat's "Meade & Paul Warning Light" just lit up, lol) -- sorry to hear the Jetta will be spending MAPP in the shop. Believe it or not (and I know you know I'm being honest for once), I really wanted to see your car to understand more why you're so passionate about it. Oh well, I've been wanting to take a closer look at the New (?) Beetle too. What color is the one you're driving? If it's yellow, my wife's gonna melt -- I had a hard time talking her out of one when we were shopping for the P5.
To all -- Paul and I like going nose to nose on stuff. I don't know why; maybe we're kindred spirits when it comes to a good debate. We aren't ever (at least I know I'm not) mad at each other. You oughta see some of the e-mails we send each other sometimes, at the same time we're duking it out here. In respect to the Member Agreement and our poor Pat who's trying to stop smoking (i.e. tension level running in the red, understandably), I am voluntarily moving our debates. We're gonna try the Protege Posse topic first, and if they don't like us there, we'll find somewhere else or maybe just go to private e-mails. Things are too fun here to mess up the Protege topic. We'll just have to watch how we communicate with each other, because it doesn't take much -- as you've probably noticed -- to start us up! The moment we see a need to debate, we'll post where we're taking it. So you can all come along and have a great time watching us.
Valve clatter -- nope guys, I'm honest. I specifically listened for it this morning. My engine starts very smoothly and quietly -- after the starter finishes its "ditditditdit" and it turns over, that is! You guys who are experiencing it aren't by chance starting your cars with your foot on the accelerator, are you? Just a thought --
One more thing, to those of you who are coming to MAPP -- we still have a few odds and ends -- not much -- that we need to bring. In particular, I need someone to volunteer to pick up and bring four or five packs of hot dogs. I'd get them, but I'm already bringing everything but the kitchen sink. There's a list of what's needed in the latest update on the Yahoo group (message number 2420). Thanks.
You wouldn't consider allowing a "Paul and Meade's Everything Automotive" topic in the Town Hall, would you? It would be great -- we'd be the Tom and Ray of the Town Hall! People would become members in droves! We'd be famous! We'd start a radio show!
Check out Edmund's TMV to price out a Pro. Sounds like they had a good sale price on it. The 20k sounds like MSRP (actually, a little higher, I think). I think Mazda still has 1,500 cash back OR 0% for 24 months. Some dealers heap on their own discount. And, if your employer offers the Ford X-plan, they likely offer the Mazda S-plan, which is a little under dealer invoice (which you can find on Edmund's as well).
Go back to the dealership and tell them you'll buy it for the sale price they had in the window before. If you say you'll buy it, they'd most likely sell it to you at that price. They were already willing to sell it at that price, so it's worth a shot.
The NB I am driving is white with grey leatherette interior. I wish I had my car back too, but I have not heard anything about it as of yet. I was going to bring my friend's '94 Cougar, but since you wanna see the NB I will bring it. But no pushing it in the river though!
I bought a Protege5 yesterday. Mazda has $600 rebate + $750 dealer cash. I paid 15400 for one with the old automatic, alarm, 6 CD changer, floor mats. If you prefer you can get 2.9% instead of the 750.
In addition to any other rebates Mazda is offering, Mazda also offers 500 for recent grads. A reminder about this type of rebate: it is from Mazda to you (not all are this way) and is therefore between Mazda and you (though typically it is taken out of the price of the car and given to the dealer in the end, technically speaking), so don't let that dealer push up the price of that car one bit just because of the rebate.
In my area (don't know about yours, but guessing it is similar), a Pro ES sedan should go for right around invoice. In other words, MSRP around here would be too much to pay, let alone $20,000! (IMO of course)
Here is a post from another forum I thought would be handy for all to see: 2.0L Engine Noise This is what Mazda has to say about it, I think we should push them to come up with a fix faster, come on it has been a problem since the middle of 2000! What do you think? I would like someone to explain the jargon that they use VTCS plates? what are there function? What does ECT stand for and what is its function? Also they use the term "believed" to be the problem which means they are not sure or are trying to limit their responsability!
The dealer noted the noise and gave me a bulliten from Mazda.
Category: B Piston Engine Repair Reference # 3562 Subject: 2.0L Engine noise with cold coolant temp
ALL 2.0L between 2001-2002 are affected
Customer may experience an engine rattle under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temps below 149 deg F and engine rpm's between 1500 to 2500.
Confirm noise only occurs within the VTCS ( Variable Tumble Control System) operation "valve closed" period (when ECT is below 149 deg F)
This noise is currently believed to be the result of the timing between VTCS plates "opening", and the ignition spark advanc command. This is an operating characteristic of this engine and no repair attempts should be made. Although the noise is present only during cold start up and disappears once the engine coolant reaches 149 degrees F, Mazda realizes that it is an annyance to some customers and its engineers are investigating possible countermeasures in an effort to address customer satisfaction.
Sounds like they are trying to get away from a recall and a problem that will or will not (they don't know)cause damage during warranty!
jcilforever
I know for sure that I don't have the noise that they're talking about. I've read the complaints, and I would be going nuts if it afflicted my Pro.
What do you mean "if"? After reading the post above, it appears that all 2001-2002 vehicles are affected and if it doesn't affect ALL 2.0L vehicles, then something is wrong.
If only some of the 01-02's exhibit this problem, then that means there is something that needs correction. What would be the difference between the cars that do have the problem and those that don't? When you have the answer to that question, you have the solution to the "problem". See what I'm saying?
I see what you're saying...all I'm saying is that if you go through the forum and read the complaints, I know that I don't have what they're describing. It seriously sounds like a diesel engine or lawn mower...someone even complained that it lasted longer than 2 minutes.
If I have the problem (ie. I don't have the sound), then I'm happy!! That sound is utterly horrifying!
Comments
fowler3
Everyone always said I had a loose screw, and it took a VW mechanic to finally find it after all these years!
Wooo-hooo!!!! ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM
Meadeball
WHERE THE HECK DID EVERYBODY GO???
Meade
When is the air filter on the Pro due to be changed? 48 000 km? Can't recall off the top of my head.
Am I correct, hosehead?
;-)
Meade
Besides, I can't see how a nuclear winter could be that much worse than the regular winters in Canada.
Todd, you ever notice your Pro acting differently in your winters?
;-)
Meade
Meade
Meade
The death rattle I heard (in that file) was absolutely brutal. It sounded like the car was shaking apart. I know I don't have that for sure.
I do notice one end gets dirtier first. Since I'm cheap, I turned the filter around and replaced it when it looked evenly dirty. Probably not the best thing for performance.
Meade
Meade
Nuclear winter is when it snows for days, it's HOT, but the snow doesn't melt. Everything else does.
fowler3
I would ask that question over in the "store bought waxes Part II - No zaino posts" forum here at Townhall. They have some very knowledgeable people over in that area of TH.
In regards to the low fuel light, mine comes on with about 8 L left in the tank.
Also, the other part of what I wanted to say concerned Russell Mazda (and VW, Toyota, Subaru and BMW). I bought and have had my car serviced at Russell Mazda and had a good experience with the service department there on the Mazda side, even though it was just an oil change. I've also dealt with Congressional Mazda (they also sell VW's, what's up with that connection?!), and they're Mazda service is good as well.
My point, is that I think its the dealer more than the brand. You might get extra pampering if you drive a BMW, Mercedes, or Audi. But basically the Mazda and VW competes in a similar market currently, and I think its the dealership that makes the difference. Also, VW/Audi has taken quite a bit of flack for poor dealer networks. They've really been popular these last couple of years, and the dealerships can't keep up with the service demand. I just read that on an Audi enthusiast site, and it makes sense.
Also, mandatory pro content, its running great, and I washed and waxed it last weekend.
Steve
newcar31, chicagopro re: my rust bucket from awhile back. Two body shops said the same thing-brakedust corrosion from the roads. First I ever heard of that. Another bloody enviro-hazard to put up with. Two different suggestions from Meguiars. 1) Clay with Quick-Detailer and 2) Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner. A third from the body shop was rubbing compound (done by hand) followed by polishing compound followed by carnuba wax. Rubbing compound makes me real nervous, clay somewhat less nervous... Would someone who's used clay or rubbing compounds please advise me on these two products. Many thanks.
Dennis
A rubbing compound is used to remove light surface scratches/imperfections.
To use clay, you spray a lubricant (many prefer a quick detailer type of product)on the surface you are going to work on, and the lightly rub the clay over the surface, frequently folding it into itself to expose a clean surface. After you do this, feel the paint. It should be smooth to the touch, otherwise there is still surface contamination. You should at least wax after claying.
A rubbing compound is something I also hesitate to use and therefore haven't. I think it would be very easy to rub too much and get yourself into trouble (ie. create more scratches).
Paul ... (dare I bring this up -- Pat's "Meade & Paul Warning Light" just lit up, lol) -- sorry to hear the Jetta will be spending MAPP in the shop. Believe it or not (and I know you know I'm being honest for once), I really wanted to see your car to understand more why you're so passionate about it. Oh well, I've been wanting to take a closer look at the New (?) Beetle too. What color is the one you're driving? If it's yellow, my wife's gonna melt -- I had a hard time talking her out of one when we were shopping for the P5.
To all -- Paul and I like going nose to nose on stuff. I don't know why; maybe we're kindred spirits when it comes to a good debate. We aren't ever (at least I know I'm not) mad at each other. You oughta see some of the e-mails we send each other sometimes, at the same time we're duking it out here. In respect to the Member Agreement and our poor Pat who's trying to stop smoking (i.e. tension level running in the red, understandably), I am voluntarily moving our debates. We're gonna try the Protege Posse topic first, and if they don't like us there, we'll find somewhere else or maybe just go to private e-mails. Things are too fun here to mess up the Protege topic. We'll just have to watch how we communicate with each other, because it doesn't take much -- as you've probably noticed -- to start us up! The moment we see a need to debate, we'll post where we're taking it. So you can all come along and have a great time watching us.
Valve clatter -- nope guys, I'm honest. I specifically listened for it this morning. My engine starts very smoothly and quietly -- after the starter finishes its "ditditditdit" and it turns over, that is! You guys who are experiencing it aren't by chance starting your cars with your foot on the accelerator, are you? Just a thought --
One more thing, to those of you who are coming to MAPP -- we still have a few odds and ends -- not much -- that we need to bring. In particular, I need someone to volunteer to pick up and bring four or five packs of hot dogs. I'd get them, but I'm already bringing everything but the kitchen sink. There's a list of what's needed in the latest update on the Yahoo group (message number 2420). Thanks.
Everybody have a great day!
Meade
:-)
Meade
Oh, happy day.
--Dale
In my area (don't know about yours, but guessing it is similar), a Pro ES sedan should go for right around invoice. In other words, MSRP around here would be too much to pay, let alone $20,000! (IMO of course)
2.0L Engine Noise
This is what Mazda has to say about it, I think we should push them to come up with a fix faster, come on it has been a problem since the middle of 2000! What do you think? I would like someone to explain the jargon that they use VTCS plates? what are there function? What does ECT stand for and what is its function? Also they use the term "believed" to be the problem which means they are not sure or are trying to limit their responsability!
The dealer noted the noise and gave me a bulliten from Mazda.
Category: B Piston Engine
Repair Reference # 3562
Subject: 2.0L Engine noise with cold coolant temp
ALL 2.0L between 2001-2002 are affected
Customer may experience an engine rattle under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temps below 149 deg F and engine rpm's between 1500 to 2500.
Confirm noise only occurs within the VTCS ( Variable Tumble Control System) operation "valve closed" period (when ECT is below 149 deg F)
This noise is currently believed to be the result of the timing between VTCS plates "opening", and the ignition spark advanc command. This is an operating characteristic of this engine and no repair attempts should be made. Although the noise is present only during cold start up and disappears once the engine coolant reaches 149 degrees F, Mazda realizes that it is an annyance to some customers and its engineers are investigating possible countermeasures in an effort to address customer satisfaction.
Sounds like they are trying to get away from a recall and a problem that will or will not (they don't know)cause damage during warranty!
jcilforever
I know for sure that I don't have the noise that they're talking about. I've read the complaints, and I would be going nuts if it afflicted my Pro.
What do you mean "if"? After reading the post above, it appears that all 2001-2002 vehicles are affected and if it doesn't affect ALL 2.0L vehicles, then something is wrong.
Customer may experience an engine rattle
I think Mazda is saying that it only happens in the '01-02 engines, and in those engines it may happen in some.
If I have the problem (ie. I don't have the sound), then I'm happy!! That sound is utterly horrifying!