Mazda Protegé

dinu01

But I put a 19" on the passenger side b/c my dealer did not have BOSCH in 20" size in stock. Works fine.

Before you buy, go check (just in case).

Dinu

maltb

driver's 21"
passenger 19"

mdaffron

... where you're going to buy your wipers. They'll have a little computer dealy there that you enter all your car info into and it'll spit out what you need.

Now, I haven't been following this Silly Blade discussion; if you're gonna buy them, don't TELL me they don't have a size computer for their hi-falutin' blades on their web site!

Meade

P.S. Malt, why should he go through the trouble of looking when he knows you'll do it for him?

the_big_h

i tried searching google and nothing good came out, what did you search with?

the_big_h

i'll just get 21" and 19" and be happy.... :-P

manavi

I routinely go about 50 miles when I see the low fuel light come on in my 01 ES.

the_big_h

because as soon as I posted about not able to find the size chart, I found it.

(open mouth, insert foot) :X

mdaffron

Funny, I just used Google and searched under the key words "Anco wiper blades."

Got this:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/anwipblad.html

It did the job nicely. 21 and 19.

Meade

mdaffron

Meade

maltb

Why isn't HTTP working on here anymore?

Go here: http://www.partsamerica.com/default.asp?BypassRedirect=True

the_big_h

i suck at the internet :-(

though I also found out the sizes for my RX-7 rear windshield wiper (22") :-)

mazdafun

Rear wiper, that is. It's so short, it's almost cute.

Got a Silblades for my wife's P5 for this spring the same time I got them for my cars.

mdaffron

Two days of the ins and outs of windshield wiper inserts.

Tomorrow's topic: Where you stash boogers when it's too cold or rainy to roll down the window.

Meade

the_big_h

not very useful for sedan owners, but what the hey

mdaffron

It applies to sedans too ...

Meade

P.S. So we're going from wiper inserts to wiper controls. I guess that's a step in the right direction.

the_big_h

since you need to somehow acquire a Euro-spec 626 wiper stalk for the sedans...

kinda difficult if you don't have connections, not to mention the extra shipping fees!

dinu01

Saw your PRO on MazdaDesign.net! Still looking good

Dinu

mdaffron

And it didn't amount to a whole lot.

Question for everyone: Are the Canadian 626s the Euro-spec sedans?

Meade

P.S. I do have connections. Got a few friends southeast of London who could help. Anyone for a group order?

meinrad

I think it's cool, so that's reason enough.

Plus Meade, I'm telling your wife so you'll have to put one in her P5!

mdaffron

dinu01

Cdn. 626s Euro-Spec? HA HA. I mean no

Dinu

mdaffron

I just typed out an entire message and hit "Post My Message," and it never posted. I think Raymond and I hit "Post" simultaneously and it ignored mine!

Here goes:

A friend of mine has a 2000 ES and wants to purchase the factory driving lights for it. His question: Have any of you done this (i.e. install them yourself)? Is it difficult? I would assume the appropriate pigtails and wiring harnesses are already in place, but I don't want to tell him to go for it and then find he has to take the kit to the dealer for an hour-long install job ...

Anybody know?

Meade
(Hitting "Post" sheepishly ...)

meinrad

maltb

The Kit (p/n 0000-8C-C01A about $230 from your local dealer miester) comes with an interior harness, switch, relay, exterior harness, intermediate harness, and lamps. I wouldn't think that it's a relatively easy job, but these things are never too difficult if you have a 6 pack and big hammer.

vocus

SpeedyPT put driving lights on his Protege himself I think. He has a 2000 ES.

fowler3

Have any of you had problems with the button on the seat belt wearing holes in your pants? I've had that danged button ruin five pairs of pants this summer. It rubs on the fabric putting holes in the fly. And don't make dumb comments about that, I'm serious. Pants cost money, add to the cost of ownership.

The pants look like I have been attacked by gay squirrels.

fowler3

P.S. Wonder if Pepboys sells a cover for seat belts? Webbing also has sharp edges.

protege_fan

2 words: Duct tape.

Hahaha! Seriously though, I've never had a problem with the button you're talking about. Sounds strange!

mdaffron

Then the button won't be over your fly anymore.



Meade

theparallax

mazdafun

Jim, you knew you were opening a can of worms.

Seriously, you could probably use the shoulder pads sold for use on shoulder belts (Velcro or button fasteners) on the lap portion of the belt instead, but try to find or make a shorter one so your combo belt won't be hanging too loosely (as the pad won't retract into the spooler).

And if you decide to use tape (probably the cheapest route), use fabric tape instead of duct tape. At least it won't look so kludgy.

mdaffron

I thought that was a requirement for AARP membership, along with:

(1) 50 mph left-lane interstate driving

(2) Leaving turn signals on when not needed and not using them when needed

Hee Hee, just kiddin' with ya Jim! My Dad's not around to be the target of my lampoonery this time!

Meadeball

boggse

Meade,

I wonder if you and I experienced the same sort of issue with treadwear on our Dunlops. While mine were the SP Sport 5000m, I found that they wore very quickly and suddenly. Wear seemed normal up until about 14-15k miles, then it seemed I was eating through 1/32" per month, and I had to quickly determine whether or not to get them again. I probably would have made it to 20K if I hadn't gotten a screw in the sidewall. It sounded like you are having a similar experience with your SP Sport A2. My question is this. How are the SP Sport 5000 holding up on your P5?

fowler3

Thanks for the suggestions.

Probably could cut the shoulder belt cover shorter.
The part of the seat belt that has the button doesn't retract into the spooer. The button keeps the male part from falling to floor level between the seat and the door.

Meade, nix on gaining weight, I'm too happy having lost it. Use to be close to 200lbs, now 160lbs.

fowler3

alternator

I wonder if others have run into this tire problem: When I eventually replace my V-rated Potenzas I want a less expensive, less high-speed rated, more all-seasons tire. However, Sears and Osco employees are telling me that their company policy is that they will not supply and mount anything less than a V-rated tire on my Pro since that is what it came with! They imply they could be sued for doing such.

protege_fan

That would mean that they couldn't mount many types of winter tires. Sounds like crap to me. Kal-tire (local tire specialty store) installed my Nokian NRW's which are H-rated (IIRC)...just one rating below V.

the_big_h

since theoetically replacing the V-rated Potenzas with H-rated all-seasons would mean a potential safety hazard, if somehow a Protege owner is able to go beyond the 118(?)mph speed limit of the H-rated tires.

of course we all know a stock protege will never go that fast on its own power, so that's kinda moot point.

just go buy the tires yourself and have a local shop mount it for you :-)

protege_fan

My H-rated tires are "good" up to 210 km/h whereas V-rating is "good" up to 240 km/h. Not that substantial a difference IMO.

But seriously...I think they're trying to make more money off of you. V-rated tires would probably more expensive than a similar tire w/ a lower speed rating.

groovypippin

Wongpres just posted accurate photos of the Mazda3 sedan in the Mazda3 forum.

world_traveler

Hello.

I saw your Jan 17 post about changing your brakes. Reading your thread I think you did your first swap of front brake pads at 48,000km, isn't it?

I think my wife has just been had at the dealer garage. They told her that her front brakes were 85% finished (15% left) at only 28,000KM (or 18,000miles). She freaked at the 85% and asked them to change them costing her 300$.

Considering her smooth and safe driving attitude I do not think it is possible for her to have burned through her front brakes in 28,000km.

What do you guys think ? Any other similar experiences ?

Thanks !!!!!!

dinu01

Well mine needed to be changed ever since the car hit 35.000kms w/out a doubt, but I drove more carefully and was able to pull it longer.

I changed the front pads at 50.000kms, machined the rotors, flushed the brake fluid, adjusted the rear drums and handbrake.

Mine had 5-10%% left in them, so 15% left at 28,000KM (or 18,000miles) is not unreasonable. Does she rest her foot on the brakes? Does she drive 5spd and if so does she put it in neutral while coasting to a light, or downshifts? These different driving styles might account for some of the wear. Also, does she drive by herself or with other passengers? My PRO is 90%+ of the time driven with only one person on board (the driver).

Mazda service is not cheap by any standards ($82/hr!!!), but I don't mind paying a bit more considering we are keeping this car for the long haul hence the need to leave any doubts out of the service dept's mind if I even have a problem with it.

So compare your invoice to mine:

The front pads were $95.
Machining the rotors and replacing the pads was a 2hr job@$82/hr=$164
Adjusting the rear drums and the parking brake was $41 (1/2hr)
Add $7 for the brake fluid and $11 for the lube kit, plus GST+PST and here's how I got all this done for $365.

I wanted to flush the brake fluid even if it's not required (it was dirty!), just like I did an AT and coolant flush at 48.000kms even though there's no mention of this in the service manual for another 48.000kms (coolant inspection at 96kms; no mention of the AT fluid ever being replaced).

Maybe I baby this car too much, but after so many great drives in it, how can I not?

Dinu

world_traveler

you changed the front brakes the first time at 35,000km and then at 50,000km ?

Thanks for the invoice info and extensive answer. I'll compare invices tomorrow (my wife forgot the invoice at her office !!)

dinu01

I wanted to change at 35.000kms but I drove easier (braked earlier; kept more distance than usually, etc) and the brakes were actually changed at 50.000kms (although I'm sure I was at 20% or so by 35.000kms).

Dinu

mazdafun

Disc brake pads are easy to check. Since they're new now, make a note of how thick they are. You can then "eyeball" the remaining life.

Also, rear pads wear more slowly than front pads as they don't work as hard during braking.

However, some have replaced theirs at that milestone.

I'm at 34,000 miles on my original set of pads. I ordered a set of new front pads. Going by them, I have over 30% left. I have rear drums, so I can't check them visually without taking off the drums, but with my '89 323, they typically needed replacement every other time I replaced the front disc pads. I usually brake easily, so I put little wear on my brakes.

world_traveler

Either my wife is dong something wrong with her brakes or she has been had by the garage.

We will try to figure that out....somehow....

world_traveler

34,000 miles is almost twice as much as she changed them at.....

35,000 miles seems to be a sweespot to change the initial set of pads I see. On my 4Runner I never changed the brakes in 4 years (60,000 km 36,000 miles) despite pulling a boat during the summer and sold it like that. My father in-law just changed his at 57,000km (34,200 miles).

I don't see a good reason why she should have changed them at 18,000 unless she is driving with her foot on the brakes, which I know she does not do....)

We have the ackward feeling she has been had..... its ackward because we cannot easily prove it....

The old cliché: women and garages...... Still true in 2003....

chicagopro

I had mine checked around 18K, was told that the fronts were at 65% (35% gone), and that the rear drums were at 85% (15% gone).

I try not to ride the brakes too hard, but I drive in heavy city traffic every day...lots of stop and go, etc.

FWIW.

P.S. I'm a girl.

fowler3

with the handbrake set? Even slightly?

fowler3

fowler3

need close supervision. Reminds me of a friend who asked me to check her car to see why it was so hot inside when she drove it. It was in the summer and about 85F (+29C). When I got in the car I asked her why she had the heater control levers set a certain way? She said she liked them that way, they looked "more balanced." The temp control was set to High. -- ON!

Her other problem was not being able to see anything from the righthand outside mirror. Same as the heater controls, she sighted both outside mirrors for "balance", the angles they sit out from the car.

That car is long gone. She took a shortcut through a field, rather than drive around a sharp curve, hitting a large bolder hidden in tall grass. Tore her tranny and exhaust system all-to-pieces.

fowler3

maltb

I can see that post attracting a little attention. Are you still up Dale?

browntrout

I think I had posted something about changing the pads. I changed my front pads at about 50000 km. I live in Montreal and there is ALOT of stop and go traffic so the brakes did get used alot. I don't do very hard stops, I'm pretty good on my brakes. I also don't ride them so I would think 28000 km is kinda abnormal. My brakes were starting to sqeak, the pads were down to the little thing on the side that makes noise so you change them. You probably have some more life left in them.

Anyways, I bough Hawk brake pads for 44$ US and my brother brought them here to me. He lives in NY. Canadian shops had them for about 95$ so they are as cheap or cheaper than Mazda. Mazda wanted 120$ here. Maching the rotors, cleaning the rear brakes, labour, etc was about 350 bucks plus tax. Anyways, I changed the pads myself. It is not very hard at all if you are a little mechanically inclined. Didn't bother to machine the rotors, they were not warped at all, no pedal pulsing at all. Just sanded them a little.