Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Also my check engine light likes to comes on and stay on for awhile. It'll stay on for a couple days, then the light will go off for 3-4days. It dosen't come on while driving, It'll either stay on or go off like it should when I start my truck. The engine itself is running great, no problems there. Any suggestions?
Thanks..
Otherwise, if there is humming without the air cond runnning - probably the ICV (Idle Control Valve), think this is the name for it. This controls the idle speed. It's a black and silver cylinder on the side of the intake with two wires into it. Its a valve and solnoid thingie that meters air into the intake at idle. When it's dirty, it can hum. It can be removed (careful with the gasket), two screws, and the valve part cleaned with carb cleaner. Don't get this into the solnoid part.
When its dirty you will also have an unstable idle - too high or low or surging.....
Something to check anyway.
Other things to do, remove air snorkle from air box, replace intake tube with smooth metal, possible MAF modification or throttle body upgrade, upgaded spark plugs, new plug wires, underdrive pulleys, lower weight synthetic motor oil, port matching of head, header, and a cat-back exhaust.
With all of the above done, I think figures over 150 hp are reasonable, and it would feel like a new engine.
Since you already bought used, I would think you would not lose the kind of money as if you traded an almost-new 4 cylinder.
In my opinion, you have a 4 cylinder, and it will always be a 4 cylinder. If you are worried about the cost of power upgrades, I don't see you ever 'getting your money's worth' by pouring money and upgrades into a 4 cylinder. You really will not get anything back on them when you sell the truck. Many people will run from a truck with extensive mods, thinking it probably was abused also.
When looking at used Rangers, I drove a 4 cylinder - and it was seriously underpowered for me. I drove a 3L and thought that was a little more like it. I drove a 4L manual and burned the tires starting off. I said 'wooo' what's happening here. The salesman clued me in about Rangers having 2 V6's, which I didn't know. That's when I decided the 4L was for me.
Bottom line - If you want fast, buy fast. Don't try to build it, unless you have a lot of money you are willing to put into a vehicle and never get much of it back. And also remember, these are trucks, they are designed for torque, not speed. And milage will also be low since they are shaped like a rolling brick.
The manufactors of these devices lie, you will not get this kind of increase with whatever a 'chip' can do (mainly increase the timing advance, which may make it run hot. They usually recommend a 160 degree thermostat to conteract this. Which may put the engine management computer into 'open loop' process, especially in the winter, which will reduce milage.), minor increase in intake air flow, and minor increase in exhaust flow.
Save this money toward a 4L purchase in the three years you talk about.
Buy a 4L OHC which is a factory rated 205+ HP(something like this number). These are 2001 and later models, and they are much stronger than my 94 4L.
Have you ever looked at the exhaust ports, or your exhaust manifold? There is clear oportunity for improvement, but it will cost money and time.
But the point that should be brought up is if it is important to you. Yes, it's easier to start out with more cubic inches, and then you can do performance mods to add more power. This would be the best way to go, but if buying a new(er) truck is not feasible, then why not?
It is not just a small increase to your intake and exhaust. While it can start out that way, there is a sum whole to what you can do, and it can make a big difference over time. Plus some people just enjoy working on their truck, or trying something new. But you are right about the manufacturer claims. My 3.0l makes an advertised 154 horsepower. My gibson cat-back advertises 10-15 hp gain. I figure 5 horsepower is a safe and realistic claim, so I figure I'm at around 160 now (also with a airbox modification).
Also, jtc, remember I mentioned "Peak Horsepower, not mean or average horsepower" which is basically what you will be affecting. Its not like the 2.3l 4 cylinder can't be fast (Anybody remember the 84 SVO 2.3? While not the exact same block it was the same displacement)
But to answer your question JTC, it depends on the pipes you put on. I just put a Gibson cat-back on my truck and love it. Not much louder, but definitely more of a growl. Flowmasters would be more throaty, but it will still sound like a 4 cylinder. Hopefully other 2.3l owners will chime in with their experience with certain exhausts.
But also just remember that you will have a very stout 4 cylinder motor. My 1993 2.3l was still running great after 140,000 miles, and that included many years of teenage abuse.
That is exactly what I am saying - If you want fast, buy fast. If you don't you are going to pour money into what you initially bought to get fast. And many times you won't get as fast as if you spent that money to initially buy fast.
And I am not talking about people that like to work themselves on their vehicles. I personally understand the feeling of satisification that comes when you've done something successfully yourself, with your own hands.
But many of the people you see posting on these message boards can't do their own work. They are on a limited budget buying into a vehicle, but then are willing to feed additional money into it as time goes by. I just feel this is false economy all the way. If you can't buy fast at the first, save more money before you jump into the first purchase, then buy fast initially. You will always be ahead of the game - in my opinion.
And one thing is for certain, rear wings, stickers, lowering kits, body kits, cutting springs, and 500 pounds of audio/visual equipment does NOT make your car fast...
Or, open a savings account with that $200-500 at a Credit Union. Then, in three years, this Credit Union might be giving better loan rates than the dealerships (you can't beat their 0% right now, but who knows what the future holds). And, you've got that $500 + Interest (even a little will help) and maybe more because you've gotten into the practice of saving a little each payday....
And you will have a much better chance of BUYING FAST!
Keep this outlook for the next 35 years and you can have a nice retirement.
Otherwise, in 3 years you have a nasty, oily air filter and a rusted out exhaust which will probably detract from the resale value of your truck.
Yea, I know, this is your grandpaw talking to you...
But nothing too drastic or bank breaking because I am really curious and tempted to see what the 2005 (or 2006? remodel) of the Ranger will be. If Ford gets off their butt and finally puts in the 4.6l v8, you know what I'll be getting.
I have a '97 Mazda B-2300 (a Ranger) with 47,000 miles and can't get my AC to work. I'll turn on the AC and will hear it click in and then stop. 10 sec later it tries to kick in again and nothing.
Thank you!!
The fan is cracked and doesn't look to good. Will it fly apart and tear things up??
You truck is nearing 10 years in age, and even with relatively low milage, a bill for 79 bucks now (standard transmission flush and filter) beats a 1-2 grand bill for replacing or remanufacturing the transmission. I can't speak from any experience with synthetics, as I ran castrol GTX, and whatever mecron I could get for cheap. I would just go with periodic flushes, and use any mecron fluid. The dealership would definitely use what is required.
On your fan, it would be a good idea to replace it. I've seen one break apart on a sweat 50's thunderbird, and well, he fixed that, his radiator hoses, and his hood. You have an electric fan right? That should be an easy replacement from any autoparts store, just might have to rewire it from the factory harness/plug.
www.nhtsa.gov and www.alldata.com are two that come to mind.
Does anyone know what this package consists of? Are there blocks I could remove? Shock change?
what i need to know is:
what milage does the timing belt get changed?
is it a belt or chain?
is the engine the type that if the timing belt breaks then it harms the engine.
And I just checked my old Haynes manual. It is a belt.
was the bearings (4 wheel drive) I took it to the dealer and he said it was the lower ball joints. Has anybody had the same problem with this truck?
Was the driveshaft replaced due to vibration? What do you mean by chain drive rattle?
I'm sorry you've had a bad experience, but you are kidding yourself if you think your situation is the standard to which all Rangers (and all Fords) apply. I know you want to blow off some steam, but realistically, you are in the minority on this one.
Wijoco, i think you're also right about the guessing part. The exterior heat shields were coming off, the service kept putting new brackets on them to help stop the rattling. Since the shields are tack welded on they couldn't do anything, and they couldn't tell if there was a slight crack on the inside. I owned a Mercury Tracer for ten years and just sold it, it still runs great but that had really bad CATS and were replaced twice. So i didn't want to deal with another CAT problem on a Ford. Yeah, it's an automatic.
The driveshaft problem is a known problem that's listed on their TSB. They've changed the driveshaft to a new composite material and the new one has stopped the jerking on acceleration and decceleration.
The chain rattle is also listed on the TSB and i believe they are changing the guides. It seems like you guys know a lot more about cars and trucks than i do so my only best explanation is just a regurgitation of what the engineer said.
The EGR sensor was faulty and replaced as explained by the service guy, I'm not sure if the whole valve itself was replaced.
As for my feelings on Ford, their customer service is really bad and they have no real answers, no way on contacting the regional office to help with finding answers to problems. The customer service hotline just records your statements and or problems and just places a call to the dealership.
I have a Toyota Corolla as a commute car and their service is so much better. I had some simple issues and they went out of their way to have the problem fixed without lip service. They also noticed a problem with some of their records pertaining to the vin number and out of the blue called me to have everything rectified. They did all the leg work and i didn't have to go to the dmv.
Unclebob2, I have the same sound when steering extremely left or right and my research has found that it is a common problem. A friend of mine with a similar Ranger brought his in and while i'm not sure if it is the steeringstop, ball joint or the cv boot, the techs greased and sprayed lube over everything - seemed to work for him.
I had a 90 with the 2.3 and had belt changed @ 90K. It was still
in good shape but just starting to crack on the teeth side of the
belt. If you aren't hitting red line on each shift, I'd go for 75-85K.While you are that far into it, may want to change thermostat also, it's right there in the open while changing the belt.
good luck
goldranger
As far as the bed being tilted towards the front, I don't know. I've never noticed this, but doesn't mean it's not there. About the only thing you can check is the mounting points under the bed. There should be 3 pairs of bolts holding it in. Make sure there are no missing, or extra spacers that could be removed/added to alleviate the bed. Otherwise a slight tilt may be perfectly normal, as long as the bed still matches the body lines of the cab, I don't think there is much to worry about (other than water getting trapped.) Perhaps he can back in?
My question: Do any of y'all have the (new) 2.3 with 5-speed combo? What's your impression of the power? Any reliability issues? If I buy this one, it'll be used as a commuter vehicle with occasional trips to the flea market, not regular heavy hauling, and it'll be replacing both a '90 Nissan 240sx and an '83 Mercedes turbodiesel.
Stephen
somewhere in central Georgia
I recently bought a 2003 Passat GLX and the Ranger is still the vehicle I drive to work every day. It has been a real workhorse and a very useful hauling tool (all over California, Kentucky, Arizona and New Mexico).
Even though I can afford better now, I will probably replace my Ranger with another one when my truck finally dies. Sometimes I want a SUV or bigger truck, but my positive experiences with this truck make me loyal to the Ranger.
I know this is a "problem" board, but I wanted others to know that people have had great experiences with their Rangers.