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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • winter123winter123 Posts: 2
    Thank you midnight_stang for the suggestion
    how about adding stp gas treatment to the gas tank. is it going to hurt anything?
  • goldrangergoldranger Posts: 54
    I had a 90 2.3 5sp that some folks really thought was a diesel when idling in neutral. That trans uses atuo trans fluid and was light weight. I did replace the pilot bearing when I did the clutch, but the noise continued as soon as it warmed up. Is your quiet when cold? When I sold mine it had 174,000 miles on it and was still strong. I just lived with it. Have a 01 4.0 5sp auto now with 16K and love it. (except gas mileage)
  • p51dp51d Posts: 1
    Don't laugh! I have a 1989 2.3l/ 5 speed with 248,000 miles on it. The water pump failed 2,000 miles ago. It ran hot to the point of seizing up when the clutch was depressed. Miraculously no water found in the oil nor is it losing any any where else. With summer here I began running the air conditioner and it now runs hot to the point of boiling over which means no a/c. The radiator was rebuilt 2 years ago. The repalcemant water pump was from a discount place. I've installed a new clutch fan and thermostat from Ford.Good anti- freeze and hoses. Still runs hot when the a/c is turned on after about fifteen minutes. Is there any hope????
  • New waterpump, thermostat and radiator amounts to about half of all the water passages in the engine. You may want to think about flushing and cooling the entire system, especially the engine to get out any deposits internally.

    You should probably also think about installing an aftermarket electric fan on the radiator. You can even buy some that come with temperature sensors so they turn themselves on when a certain temp is reached in the radiator. However a full time fan would only keep the engine cooler, and the drawback would be it takes a bit longer to warm up. I think that is much better than boiling over, though...
  • I recently purchased a 99 Ranger with only 19K miles on it and it seems to sag in the rear a little , It is a Super-cab model with the 3.0 six in it. It also is the flairside XLT. Has anyone out their ever noticed this on their truck. It is not a previously wrecked truck for I knew the original owner. I have recently found out there are some TSB's out on this problem but as of this writing I have not been able to see what they say or see the possible causes or fixes.
    The TSB numbers are 99-3-7 Issued FEB. 99 Titled Suspension - Left Rear of Vehicle Seems Low and 00-10-06 Issued May 00 Titled Leaf Springs - Vehicle sits Low in Rear.
    Anyone with any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • ranger96ranger96 Posts: 16
    Im in the process of buying a 1996 Ranger. It has 67,000 miles. The check engine light(he said it is nothing to do with the engine) is on and so is the airbag light. The person that im buying it from said he was going to turn of the light but it cost 100.00 dollars. Is it commom for the lights to go on?Is it sapose to go on at 60,000 miles?And they are selling the truck for 5,500.00 dollars is it too cheap?
  • You can turn off the light yourself, just disconnect the battery for half a day. That will reset the computer to factory programming. However the engine light will probably come on again soon. It usually means there is a sensor that needs replacing, not that there is a mechanican problem(probably). At 60,000 sounds like a good time for an oxygen sensor(s), PCV valve, etc.

    So forget paying him the 100 bucks. And get your codes pulled from the computer after reseting it. The codes should tell you what's up, even if you get a mechanic to pull the codes before you buy it.
  • ranger96ranger96 Posts: 16
    I just heard that you have to change the timing belt at 60,000 miles is this true?If I do need to change it how much is it going to cost. And if the timing belt breaks is it the type that will make the valves and stuff break? THANKS
  • Get a haynes (or chiltons) book if you want to do it yourself. It should cost about 50 bucks or so, all parts and about 1-2 hours to do.

    The good thing about the ford 2.3l is that there is no valve to piston interference. That is, if the timing belt does break, the valves should not hit the pistons and you will stall. However damage can occur from the half second of random timing events before the engine shuts down (i.e. Combustion stroke with intake valve open)

    I believe a reasonable estimate for a professional replacement should be around 200 or 300 dollars tops.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    all Rangers have steel timing chains, no rubber belts, I4 and V6.
  • I haven't taken the timing cover off a v6, but I know all ranger 4 cylinders have belts.
  • goldrangergoldranger Posts: 54
    My 90 2.3 had a belt, which I had changed @ 90K. The old belt had cracks on the teeth side of the belt. It was time, think I paid $230 at the Ford store, also included a thermostat while they were in there. My 2k1 4.0 v6 has three chains. Don't how long they will last.
    Good luck
  • Hey everyone I was wondering if someone could answer this question for me... I own a 2000 Ranger Trailhead edition, it came from the factory with a 3 inch lift and bigger tires, made to look like a 4x4 without actually being one. Well the lifted look has grown old to me and I want to take the lift off so I can lower the truck using an airbag suspension system. What my question is is what type of lift is on the truck? Will I have to replace a bunch of suspension parts to return the truck to stock height, or is it only a matter of removing a few blocks? Thanks for you help!
  • wallywallawallywalla Posts: 26
    Does anyone have any problems with the Torsen rear in this truck? I'm considering a purchase but now I've heard some reports of recalls and stop production on this FX4 at the plant since April. Anyone having problems with this limited production truck? The automatic transmission trucks are not affected.
  • truckdude1truckdude1 Posts: 88
    Hey Everyone!
    Well we just bought our Son a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 Litre engine and Automatic transmission. We found out that it was a leased vehicle and it has 48,699 miles. It seems to run well, but is it normal for the 3.0 engine to be quite noisy at acceleration and the front suspension seems quite loose as in going over a speed bump it is bouncy. Please let us know how your 3.0 liter engine is treating you and how reliable they are! By the way it was 12,000 $ good or bad deal?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    The 3.0 liter engine is famous for ping under acceleration: very normal for that truck. (Premium fuel will help). The "bounce" is an inherent part of the truck's nature: those stiff torsion bars in the front will "jitter" a lot more than a coil spring will (it is tough for stock shocks to control the rebound of a twisting steel bar)..IMHO, this is THE weakpoint in the design of the Ranger. It is probably the "bounciest" small truck you can buy (i.e. very heavy suspension on a light truck body = "jitter"). If Ford could imporve the ride, they would have a real winner.
    Also, look underneath and see if you have a steel (rusted to heck) or alloy (silver) driveshaft. If you got the aluminum version, that means it was replaced by the previous owner, which is your good luck (many of the earlier steel ones were poorly machined and caused nasty floorbaord vibration). Good luck; it should run 200 000 miles with little trouble.
  • The 3.0l was revised for 2002 just for the above reasons... to quote "The torque profile of the 3.0L has been modified to provide better driveability, improved fuel economy and towing capability."
  • Hello All,

    I have been looking at a '93 Ranger Extended Cab with a camper shell with 133,000 miles on it for my son. It is a single-owner. It has a manual transmission with a 4.0 liter V8 engine. The owner did tow a trailer quite a bit with the truck. Does anyone think of problems for which I should be particularly alert in this vehicle. Cosmetically, it is in good condition. Thanks, in advance, for any advice. I am not knowledgeable at all in this area.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    Got Timing belt AND serpentine belt for just under 300 bucks at a dealer at 65 thousand miles. Though 4-banger trucks are dogs, one of the nice things about a tiny engine fit in a space designed for a big engine is cheap labor costs.
  • takes all of about 5 minutes to change. :) And that includes parking the truck and popping the hood... :)
  • I found a 2000 3.0 V6/Auto Supercab 47,000 miles that is "Ford Certified" that the dealer wants $10,900. When I went to drive it, the battery was dead. The headlights had been left on since the switch was turned on in the dead truck. The salesguy jumped it off and we went on the test drive. The abs light stayed on and the o/d off light stayed on even if I pushed the o/d switch. The truck was clearly missing its shift points and lunged into gear every time we stopped or it upshifted. The salesguy thought that this problem was due to the computer resetting itself when the battery went dead. Any body have any thoughts on this situation? Otherwise the truck is clean except for some of the wiring covers and the shiny fireproof heatshield against the firewall look ragged and loose.
  • wscougarwscougar Posts: 1
    with a 2.9 Litre engine. I has been TROUBLE FREE with 181,500 miles on it since a short block replacement with about 81,00 miles on it. We bought it in '92 with about 48,000 miles and purchased a 50,000 extended warrenty. Well, fortunately, the short block replacement cost me a $50 premium which nothing compared to the $3,000 repair bill. Since then, I have had clear sailing with the truck and plan on replacing it with a new (or 2001) Ford F-150. Can't say enough about my experience with the Ranger. I certainly got my money's worth!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I doubt the problems you indicated with ABS and O/D would be caused by a dead battery.

    Tell the salesman to get the thing in the shop, and when these problems are fixed to give you a call, but not before.

    Bad upshifts might be 're-learning', but I don't know how much 'relearning' a 3L Ranger computer really does. This isn't a sports car....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Since the messages about chains verse belts for timing drive on 4 cylinder Rangers....

    I've looked at the maintenance schedule in the owners manual for my 1994. The only thing I see in the maintenance schedule was 'Inspect camshaft drive belt tension. 2.3 l only'. This was at 60,000 and 120,000 miles.

    I didn't see anything about belt replacement.

    Are you sure it has a belt?

    If so, then Ford seems to say it will run 120,000 miles without replacing.
  • image
    This is a 2.3l Turbo block, but the same design found in Ranger.

    The stock Ford 2.3l is an non-interferance engine*, without a specific maintenance interval on the timing belt. The 60,000 mile inspection is where that is determined.

    *-If the timing belt breaks, no damage should occur from piston to valve clearance.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    3.0 is a chain, 2.3 is a belt. But if belt snaps it doesnt cause problems. I got mine done at 65k with fanbelt just because I had the money at the time, knew it was recommended maintenance, and didn't know if Id have the money if and when it snapped. They're right though, there's no replacement interval recommended in the owner's manual. But dont go expecting 120 thousamd miles out of it.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    nothing like a picture for an answer! No more questions about that.

    What has to be taken off to get there, belts, fan, and a cover?
  • Remove fan, and pulley (if applicable)
    Remove Water pump pulley.
    Remove drivebelts
    Drain and remove upper radiator hose
    Remove thermostat housing and gasket
    Position 1st piston at top dead center on comp. stroke
    Remove crankshaft pulley and belt guide.
    Remove cover.

    That is the basics of getting to the belt, but is in no way the complete job thereafter.
  • need2knowneed2know Posts: 1
    I'm considering buying a Ranger PU, 1999 extended cab with 38K miles. The Dealer is asking $14,995. It's an extended cab, 4WD with a bed liner. Based on appearances seems to be in good shape (have not test driven). Any insight or recommendations on this make/model/year is appreciated.

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Sounds very high to me. I would think more in the range of $12,500.

    What motor does it have?

    Go to a bank or credit union and look at their used car book, the load officers will be happy to show it to you. It will give retail, loan, and wholesale values, for your area.

    There are links off here for looking up online used car values. Bear in mind the Kelly Blue Book values are ususally higher than you should actually pay. They almost always are overstated.
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