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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • goldrangergoldranger Posts: 54

    Be sure you get the crankshaft position sensor on correctly. that is important to the operation of everything....... in everyday driving I think 120K is to far.....but as the above states if it breaks it won't hurt the engine. just hope a big 18 wheeler isn't right behind you when it lets go

  • dave01978dave01978 Posts: 1
    $15k is not to bad i traded in a 99 2wd and got 12k for it with 70k miles depending on whats on the truck the one i traded in had bedliner,hard cover, bucket seats, dual media cd tape, all power,2.3 v4. im not sure what the one you are looking at has on it but the one we traded in they were asking 17k they sold it right away dont know what they got for it though. ithink you can prob talk them down to at least $13k i would shoot lower first and work you way up though, also if you are trading in get the apraisal done before negotiating other wise they will give you a good deal on the 99 but screw you on the trade in hope this helps Dave by the way got a 2002 ranger 4x4 xlt offroad package with the 4.0l v6 and loving it
  • 427435427435 Posts: 86
    I thought I would check this web-site as I and my son are planning on changing the timing belt on his wife's Ranger P.U. with airconditioning and a 5-speed. I bought a Chilton's manual but it's not very detailed. Couple of questions for anyone that's actually done this.

    Does the airconditioning condensor have to be moved and the radiator taken out?

    Is a puller needed to get the crank pulley off?

    Chiltons mentioned that the spring on the timing belt tightener wasn't enough to pretension the belt but didn't say what was. Does anyone have a Ford manual with better info?

    Anything else that I should know about?

    Thanks for any help.
  • The radiator and condenser do not need to be removed. Doing so will give you lots of room, but it really is not necessary.

    Again a puller is really helpful, but not completely required. I'd recommend using one so as not to damage the crank sensor or attaching hardware.

    I'm am not sure on the pretensioner. Maybe just a little prybar action?
  • nebula30nebula30 Posts: 20
    I've got a '99 Mazda B3000 ......3.0 Ltr of course.....with only 34,000 miles on engine light came on recently and a diagnostic showed that insufficent flow was detected through the EGR light turned off....but came back on today.....It of course is made by Ford and the egr valve has Ford name and part # on top of Question auto parts store has one listed for it, BUT will it have the same flow specs that the OEM valve has?? looks to be a very simple job to replace it but would like to know that I'm not wasting my time and money on buying one from a parts store rather than the dealership........appreciate any advise on this.......thanks
  • Greetings!

    I just recently took advantage of the generous 0% finance terms and switched my 3.0 Edge for a new 4.0 XLT Off Road (and lower payments). One of the attractions of the truck I selected was the Mach MP3 CD player and the capability to create my own CDs.

    So far I haven't been able to get a single MP3 CD to work with the unit. Has anyone here any info or experience with the Mach MP3? What works, what doesn't, anything may help to identify the issues.

    Thanks. Mike
  • I took a MP3 cd up to the dealership a while back, and it works just fine. A burned CDR, just straight .MP3 files, and asside from not picking up the inbedded tags, it played fine. Might try different media or software....

    nebula, most autoparts stores will carry a suitable replacement. Just make sure it is not a generic replacement, but one specifically designed for your truck/engine. If you go with a well known name (Autozone, O'Reilly, or Pep Boys in my area) you should be fine.
  • tukeanutukeanu Posts: 10
    Hi, I'm new here. I used this site (the Ranger v.s. Tacoma posts) to research a new vehicle purchase about two years ago. I bought a 2001 XLT ext. cab 4x4 Off Road fully loaded with the 4.0L sohc and 5 spd man trans. The deciding factors were rear doors and price, quality took a rear seat (no pun intended). After living through two nightmares (Ford and the dealership) I finally got my truck. After a year and a half of ownership there are still a few things not right with it and instead of reading all fourhundred and some posts here I thought I would just ask you guys about them and hope for some answers. The problems are as folows;
    -Loud clunk when A/C compressor engages (not always though)
    -Seems to be lots of play (clunk sound) in the driveline when transitioning between power on and power off. Even smoothly. Keep in mind this is a standard transm. If I am VERY careful with my shifting I can avoid it.
    -I get a buzzing or rattling sound when the engine is cold and the rpms go above 2700. Disappears when engine warms up. Dealer says it must be a loose heat shield but couldn't find it. It has been EXACTLY the same for 1.5 yrs as well. Could be piston rap or valve clatter? You have to listen closely to hear it but it's always there.
    -Driver's side floor is wet under rubber mat. Probably windshield seal.
    -Tailgate requires extra push on upper left to get that side to latch upon closing. I can live with that (Ford quality control asleep at the wheel).
    The engine buzz and driveline clunking are my two biggest concerns. I know the driveline thing has been discussed here already. What do I need to know about these problems prior to going back to the dealership? Thanks in advance guys.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    The driveline problem can most likely be resolved by getting the newly designed all aluminum driveshaft. I had the esame problem on my 2000 Ranger, and the new shaft did the trick: here is some info I have posted beofre (a TSB) that you may find helpful:
    Driveline - Thump/Clunk Noise
    Article No.



    1998-2001 RANGER

    This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.


    Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.


    Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    1. Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.

    2. Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.

    3. Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark. This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.

    4. Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).

    5. Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.

    6. Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).

    7. Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).

    8. Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.

    Parts Block
    SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.
  • bishof1bishof1 Posts: 1
    Hello to All
    I have a chance to buy a 2002 Ranger Super Cab 4D with auto, air and all the goodies. It is also the FX4 Off Road with running boards, bed liner, towing pack etc. It only has 1800 miles and price is 19,500. Based on what I see posted here this seems like a very fair price. I know the 2002 brand new have the 2500 rebate but this still seems good after factoring that in. Any thoughts?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    FWIW, my thoughts. MAKE SURE that the FX4 you are buying does NOT have an axle problem, or an inadequate repair of original truck that may have resulted from an axle problem of earlier versions (well publicized). Also, make sure you test drive this truck adequately at highway speeds at various speeds such as 55 - 75 to make sure the ride is acceptable to you (IF you use your truck on the highway). Also, as I have posted many times, these Ranges have had many driveshaft balance and warpage problems. Look to see if the model you are buying has an aluminum (silver) 4 inch driveshaft. If it does, it has already been corrected. If not, carefully observed for thump-klunks and driveline lash from a dead stop, AND floorbaord vibration at highway speed (becoming very annoying after about 20 minutes of driving).
    So make sure you test drive this vehicle LONG ENOUGH to be convinced it is tip top. Also, make sure it tracks straight (another infamous 4x4 toe-in Ranger quirk..these trucks don't tend to want to "self-center" their steering very well, and tend to wander more than many are used to. They are very sensitive to road camber, and tend to pull when driving on a cambered biggie when you get used to it.) The price is very reasonable, but also be warned that these trucks depreciate very can use this as leverage to knock another 500 bucks off of the price. Good luck. That is a cool looking truck.
  • I just bought a Ford Ranger 2002 XLT, 3.0 manual, and it has been shaking ONLY IN IDLE since the day I bought it; however I didn't notice it until the day after. So I brought it back. The dealership hooked it to a computer and told me there was nothing wrong with it, but when I look under the hood, the engine looks like it has a bad case of heart burn. It rumbles and shakes so much you can see the truck shake from the outside. Ford is giving me the run around. I saw the same thing happen in post #37, but that was a long time ago. Before I file a lemon law suit, is anyone else out there experiencing the same problem, and/or know a solution?
  • There might be a throttle adjustment screw that you can adjust. On the throttle body, or just follow the throttle linkage. See if maybe 100-200 more RPM's could fix it. Also a good time to remove the air intake snorkle. That may help it breathe easier enough to reduce the shaking.

    Things like that do not produce codes, typically. Sounds like the dealership was just trying to get you in and out. The trick is to ask if there is any remedy for the issue with a knowledgable 3.0l mechanic. As time progresses, and the engine gets broken in it may go away, or get worse.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,024
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  • Howdy all!

    Finally got my '92 Ranger 4.0L on the road a few weeks ago but I've been chasing a problem I can't find.

    While cruising down the road under constant speed (or any other driving condition), the temp gauge sits at about 20% of full scale. Every once in awhile, it will climb to about 60% in 1 or 2 seconds. It sometimes stays there for almost a minute but often starts dropping again quickly, taking about 10 o 20 seconds to drop back to around 20%.

    I have had 3 different thermostats in it (1 non-Ford part), changed the fan clutch and the temp sensor but it always behaves the same.

    These excursions do not correlate with acceleration, speed, rough road, or any other condition I can think of.

    I ran this morning with the heater on (been too hot to try that until now) and could not swear to any change in temp from the heater when the gauge went wacky.

    I suspect the electrics of the temp gauge circuit but have not purchased the service manual yet to start tracking it down.

    I was hoping to take my first long trip in the Ford this weekend but my confidence level in it is still lower than my '92 Jeep with more than twice the mileage.

    Has anyone else had a similar problem and what did you find???
  • dle01dle01 Posts: 37
    I'm having a problem with the emissions system on my 99 Ranger (3.0 V6/Auto). A while back the check engine light came on and I noticed the truck running rough. The symptoms were a surging or hesitating sensation when travelling at a constant speed - most noticable at between 25 and 40 mph. There was also hesitation when accellerating from a stop.

    While the truck was in for a regular oil change I had the shop (a Goodyear ASC, not a Ford Dealer) diagnose the problem. They diagnosed a faulty EGR valve and selonoid (sp?) which I had them replace. To make a long story short, the truck has been back to the same shop 4 times and the problem is not fixed yet. Each time, the truck runs better for a day or two and then the light comes back on and the symptoms return.

    First, has anyone had this problem and if so how was it resolved? Second, do you think I will have better luck at a Ford dealer? I've already spent $200 on this problem with the Goodyear shop, and they have never charged me for subsequent visits. However, I am beginning to doubt that they are able to properly diagnose and repair this problem.

    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

    p.s calamityjane -- perhaps it is time to replace that gauge. I had a similar problem with a boat, and after trying lots of things out of caution it turned out to be the instrament. If it still reads hot with a new thermostat and a new gauge, you know you have more serious trouble.
  • nebula30nebula30 Posts: 20
    I have a '99 Mazda B3000 (3.0L V6) with 34,000 miles on ck engine light has also come on like independant shop diagnosed it and told me low flow from the EGR valve....they didn't replace it because the guy said one of their own mechanics had done that on his truck and ck engine light came back on as well.....I THINK I may have an answer for the problem though....My truck also has the "skipping/hesitation...sputtering at higher speeds.....

    My best friend had a '00 Ranger that had our same problem and a dealership fixed it for him.....they replaced a different component on the EGR system....a "DPCE....???? sits right on the front of the manifold intake....looks to be very easy to replace....2 screws and 2 hoses to remove and replace....BUT I bet the part can only be gotten through a dealership...I'm going to go let the dealership diagnose mine and replace it.........I had taken the EGR valve off and "cleaned" it....left battery cables off for a while to reset the light....and 2 days later light has come back on.....Maybe we can both get this thing fixed.....good luck to you
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My story about the temp gauge, on a 94 4L automatic.

    Earlier this summer, I noticed when the AC was off but in MAX or RECIR I got quite a lot of rather warm air out of the vents. I looked at the TEMP control cable and it seemed to be working fine and the 'door' seemed to be closing completely. Thinking that maybe the seals around the door have deteriated in 8 years I thought of something else to try to help the AC.

    I bought a manual cutoff value and put it in one of the heater hoses. My old 1966 Ford had one of these. And since my 94 Ranger did not have a vacumn operated cutoff, like some new vehicles, I decided to do the manual cutoff, opening and closing it in spring and fall.

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, ever since I put the manual valve in one of the heater hoses, and it is closed of course, my temp gauge has been doing somewhat like yours is doing.

    It will come up, then surge up to about 3/4 gauge, then drop to almost the bottom. It will do this about 3 or 4 times. And then, especially if I am on the highway and the outside temp is hot, it will stablize at the 'usual' position which is about the N or O on 'NORMAL' Except one cool morning I was driving it and it continued to cycle up and down.

    I think it has something to do with the heater core being in the 'bypass' flow of water, which allows the heater to heat up faster in winter. When I cut this bypass off, for some reason, and because of where the sensor is located, it see a different flow of water for some reason. I think when the thermostat opens a flow of overheated water comes out of the engine and hits the sensor. Then, the cool water from the radiator hits it. If the 'bypass' flow through the heater was working, I think these temps are evened out some way, and the gauge is more stable.

    Or, maybe we have an air pocket in the engine and this is what causes it? Cutting into the hose I lost very little antifreeze, but could have still gotten air into the hose.

    Are your heater hoses hooked up properly? You said something about 'getting the truck back on the road'. Is it possible you have a completely blocked heater, which gives you the same 'system' as I do with a cutoff valve in a hose closed off?

    I'm just living with it, especially since after a few cycles it stablizes. Since I intend to open the valve in a short when the outside weather cools off, I will see it it gets back to 'normal' then.
  • dle01dle01 Posts: 37
    Thanks for your advice nebula30. When I take it in I will have them check that part. I appreciate your response.
  • It's a 2000 ranger, 25,000 miles, Auto, extended cab, flex-fuel.... just got paid $5000 by Ford because it's a lemon. Legal Costs to me: Nothing.

    Problem: AC compressor cycles SO friggin rapidly that it sounds like a clicking noise. was serviced 15 times (but I could have sued after 4 attempts). Completely sporadic problem... ended up wearing out the serpentine about 30K miles early!

    After everything is done and said, I've probably had the freon refilled 4 times, compressor and all components eventually replaced twice (or more for some switches)

    Nightmare doesn't end: Sporadicaly doesn't start - doesn't even turn over or click...but now I'm outta warranty. Send me an email if you can help. I'm a full-time student and a business owner and having the truck decide to not start is ruining my life (the dealerships have no idea what's happening) It seems to occur early/later afternoon and ends up starting after the sun sets. (I'm in Arizona and it's like 105 out)

    an email would be most helpful.
    Andrew Walker
  • I tried to run a search on this and couldn't find anything, so I'm sorry if this is a repeat of a problem. On our 3 week old Ranger (that's already been in for a "Check Gage" light), is melting CD's. Both homemade and store bought have been in there. None of the homemade have had labels on them and have played in at least 10 other CD players with no problem. We're sceduled to take it in next week, but I was wondering if anyone else had this happen.
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    I would suggest that your dealer/mechanic is just incompetent.

    Regarding the A/C...a low Freon level can cause rapid cycling of the compressor. But, there is no reason to recharge the system unless there is proof (like a simple pressure measurement) that there is a leak. If there is a leak, it must be located and fixed.

    Regarding the no-start condition...the diagnostic codes stored in the computer should direct any mechanic to the cause.

    I would suggest that the two problems are related and are caused by an intermittent failure in the computer. It controls both the A/C and the engine. It is an expensive replacement, but it could be cheap considering what your time is worth.
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 - same as a Ranger. My CDs do get a little warm but nowhere near melting. Hopefully, your dealer will just go ahead and replace it rather than mess you around. Might be good to show them the evidence.
  • Anyone have an idea as to how I can tell if the truck (used) I am purchasing as a limited slip. It is a 4.0 Auto. Thanks Rick
  • As in limited slip differential rear axel.

  • Should have an axle code in the door plate/sticker. I will have to find a reference list online for you somewhere....

    Heh, just found it....

  • Thanks for the info about reading the door panel. Someone at Ford told me to read the axle tag on the actual axle and see if it has a letter "L" before the ratio ie L3.55

    Do you know of this?
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    There's a fan in there that is supposed to spin to keep the radio cool. The thing may be overheating if the fan isn't working.
  • Took the truck up to the dealer today and they took the player out and have to send it off for replacement/repair. Not sure why they couldn't have just replaced it with one from the lot, but what do I know :P
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