Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bonestarbonestar Posts: 1
    Please post this everywhere you can. Here is the solution and it doesn't invlove driveshaft replacement or removal. Drill a 7/32 hole in your split yoke close to your front u-joint(so you don't drill into your splines). Purchase a 1/4x28 grease fitting 1/4x28 tap. Install grease fitting and inject heavy duty grease into your driveshaft. This will coat your splines. Do not overfill or you will rupture your boot that covers your 2 piece connection. Easy to do and if driveline slop comes back, get the grease gun out and recoat in minutes. Worked great on my 2000 extended cab.
  • A friend just bought it. We can't find a back up light switch! I see the Neutral Safety Switch atop the trany (with nothing connected to it). Are they one and the same? Thanks.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Had a very similar problem on my wife's Explorer. I could be driving on the smoothest of roads and, then "bump." Made me wonder if I was crazy. The problem only showed up after my wife was in an accident and we had to have the front bumper cover replaced. So, I looked around in all of the area's that would get really wet while driving, and wound up finding a dangling sensor at the front of the drivers side wheel well. I think the repair manual said it was the Ambient Air Temperature sensor. I accessed the sensor from the headlight bulb replacement access panel under the hood and pulled it up and stuck it into a hole (it had a clip attached to it) in the frame where it would stay dry, and haven't had a problem since. Not sure if this is the problem, but you might try and reposition that sensor up higher. If you are out for a drive and notice your truck starts bumping, when you arrive at your location, look in this access panel and see if any of the sensors in that compartment are wet or have snow built up on them. Just a thought. Not even sure if you have the same symptoms that I had.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Ranger transmissions are made in France. Why be surprised when Ranger transmissions fail?
  • liftedlifted Posts: 2
    have them check the speed sensor and the crankshaft position sensor
  • wil1wil1 Posts: 2
    I had a problem like that with mine and it turned out to be the idle valve air converter sillinoid. just go to auto zone or garage and have them plug it in to tell you for sure. but it is an easy fix with just two bolts if that is the problem.
  • wil1wil1 Posts: 2
    i took my truck into a garage to get it looked at because it had stalled. they said that the problem was a blown fuse under ther hood and they do not know the cause of the problem. anybody have an idea how i could fix it.
  • sdwarrensdwarren Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ford ranger V6 4x4 extended cab. On rainy days it doesn't start unless i hold the accelerator down. It also likes to "hop" on occasion during mild accelerations. I've also noticed on occasion that the engine cuts in and out on hard accelerations. I know that there is a leak in my tank because fuel spills when i fill it up. Does this have anything to do with it? Please help.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Could be anything. You have to start with the basics and isolate it to a spark, air or fuel problem.
  • I own a 00' ranger xlt 4X4 with 70,000 miles and over the past year at very random times when I come to a stop, the rpm's drop as if it's going to stall. I touch the gas and everything is fine. I took it to the dealer and they checked all sensors and they were fine. They then drove it to recreate the problem and it didn't happen to them in the 20 miles they put on my truck. They have no idea what it could be. Does anybody out there have a similar problem?
  • peonymanpeonyman Posts: 6
    Thanks for the tip. I'll look around as you did for anything exposed. Funny how it only happens when it snows but not in rain. Maybe that means it is both moisture and temperature dependent.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Well my wife's Explorer would do it while it rained as well, but only if the temps were cool. If we were driving only in snow, then it wouldn't happen, or if it did, very rarely. If it was slushy, it got pretty bad. Melted snow (from road salt), also made it bad. Hopefully this helps you, I wonder how many other people have had it happen. This is the second Explorer in a row that has done this, only the first one was a lease and got turned in before a solution was found.
  • thiggsthiggs Posts: 1
    I have a 99 ford ranger v6 4.0 with 99,000 miles on it. Recently my truck has suffered a blown head gasket($1500) or a cracked cylinder($2500) and I don't know if I should fix it or trade it in. I still owe $5,000 on it and love the way it drives. I just seem to always have problems with it. The tranny has also been replaced at 50,000 miles. What is the history on ford rangers and what should I do? Will fixing it solve the promblem and give me another 100,000 miles?
    Thanks for your advice
  • ifd_32ifd_32 Posts: 3
    i have a 1988 extended cab ford ranger, it has a built 302 with 3speed trans 8.8 rear end, the gas hand doesn't work properly, does anybody know what to replace to fix it, i can do the work just dunno what to replace...thxs
  • ifd_32ifd_32 Posts: 3
    1500$ for a blowed head gasket? i don't think they cost that much, and they not hard to replace at all, if its a blowed head gasket i would fix it before trading it in.
  • I had a 94 Ranger 4 Banger that did the same thing. Ended up having a stopped up fuel line and filter. After replacing the filter the shop ran a cleaner through the system and everything went back to normal.
    The gunk that was in the lines looked like day old Expresso it was so thick.
    Hope this helped,
    G Bicknell
  • mrbzmrbz Posts: 2
    HELP- my son's ranger pickup(90 2.3 4cly 5spd distributorless ignition system)we have replaced everything from the timing belt, to the brain and all other electrical components related, new timing belt installed timing marks lined up and still do not have any spark after the coil packs??? any suggestions gladly appreciated, running out of options!HELP
  • climbmoclimbmo Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2000 ranger 4WD ex cab, is there a way to grease the tie rod ends? The manual says you can remove the plug in the end. Does anyone know if it will unscrew? I tried grabbing it with vise grips however there is very little surface to work with.
  • mrbzmrbz Posts: 2
    HELP! My son has a 90 ranger with same problems, but we've just replaced the timing belt and still no spark. Can anyone help with the timing marks and firing order; the Chiltons manuel doesn't refer to the distributorless ignition timing belt after the new one is installed- thats where we are stuck-PLEASE HELP!
  • I have a 2000 ranger extcab 4x4 automatic, and I am currently having this jerking problem when my truck is shifting between gears. When I accelerate, my truck starts jerking hard and it feels like it is hesitating. The engine runs fine and the RPM’s does not seem like it is fluctuating. I had a problem before when I was driving and the truck started to hesitate, but that time the engine light went on and I found out that one of the spark plugs started to misfire. This problem is different; the truck feels like it is just jerking after it shifts to the next gear. The truck jerks 4-6 time or till I let off the gas. Has anyone experience the same problem. Is the transmission the problem or is it related to fuel or ignitions system?
  • rmillrmill Posts: 1
    My 89 fuel injected v6 Ranger sat a while, when I tried to start it the starter was burned up.
    I replaced the starter & few rat chewed wires.
    There is no spark, There is power to the coil & it tests good.
    the only thing left is the distributor, the contacts & rotor look good.
    I can not get the little module off the distributor.
    It appears to be held on by small hex head bolts.
    I thought I had every socket there is ... but not that one.
  • day1day1 Posts: 4
    If you buy a new one make sure the dealer throws in (free) the extended warranty. You need to protect yourself against the transmission failing at ~50,000 miles. I think the extended warranty covers this.
  • I don't have an answer to your problem but I am very interested in knowing how you got the replacement timing belt on. I have a '93 Ranger (4 cyl, 2.3 Lt, 5 spd manual) and the timing belt busted about a month ago. I bought a "Haynes" manual for assisting with replacing the belt but it's been little help. I had to remove the cooling fan and remove some bolts that hold the metal frame that holds the A/C and power steering unit. It is loose enough that we could remove the old belt. However, the belt was broken and came off fairly easily. But, in trying to put the replacement belt on, the clearance at the very bottom of the crankshaft pulley and the metal housing underneath the engine block make it impossible to put it in place. To add to the problem, there is a plastic shroud that gets in the way. The shroud is loose so I can move it some...not too much. I'm thinking that the crankshaft pulley has to come off...but I'm not absolutely sure. Plus, I've not done that before and not sure of the implications.

    Any help anyone can provide would be appreciated.

    With that said, here's something my Haynes book said about losing the timing belt..."Extensive engine damage can result from the loss of the timing belt". That's pretty ambiguous but that's what it said. The Haynes manual did show that there is a timing mark on both the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft. We took the #1 intake-side spark plug out and turned the crankshaft until we felt the cylinder was at top dead center. Couple that with the location of the camshaft timing mark, I'm hoping that the timing will be good if and when I can get the replacement belt on. I don't know if it's luck or sheer coincidence, the camshaft was right on the timing mark...I'm guessing when the timing belt broke.

    I did think that maybe, just maybe, something else happened at the moment in time that caused the belt to break. If so, it would probably be in the camshaft or valve area. The truck just stopped running while driving so I'm thinking and hoping it was just a belt issue.

    As for testing the spark, I took the #3 exhaust side plug out and let it sit on the engine block while the plug cable was connected. I had someone turn the engine over and I could visibly see spark. But that was when I was troubleshooting the problem and before I notice the timing belt wasn't moving.

    The Haynes manual also noted there is a fuse associated with the timing. You'll need to get a book and/or diagrams on your particular model to know where that's located. On mine, it's in a box under the hood behind the battery. Also, my owner's manual also addressed the issue of a reset button located under the passenger side floor mat just under the dashboard and nearest the "hump" in the floor. According to my manual, this could be set from a front-end collision, primarily, but has been known to set from hard bumps...even potholes in the road. So be sure to check that on your truck as that may need to be reset to allow the engine to fire.

  • Check your owner manual for a "fuel reset switch". My '93 4cyl, 2.3L, 5-spd manual truck has one. It is located inside the cab, on the passenger side, under the floor carpet, just under the dashboard, next to the "hump". The one on my truck is a push button. It isn't so hard to get to but you do need to pull the carpet down/out about 2 inches.
  • Today is the first time I've run across this forum. I got here looking for help with replacing my timing belt. But I've gone through all the postings and am amazed with all the problems noted. I have a 1993 Ranger XLT, 4cyl, 2.3L, 5-spd manual, and have had absolutely no problems with it. I have right at 117,000 miles on it. But, the timing belt broke about 3 weeks ago. After reading all the postings, I must be blessed to have had such a good truck.

  • stacey25stacey25 Posts: 11
    i have the same exact thing happening to my 2000 ranger 2x4 3.0. i just changed the transmission fluid and filter and not even 12 hours later it started doing the same thing. Then on my way to work my o/d light started flashing. My brakes in the front definitley need replaced and the jerking is still happening just like it would be my transmission slipping. i am still going to try the tune up and see what happens. i will get back to you--if you find out what is going on with yours please let me know--thanks
  • stacey25stacey25 Posts: 11
    yeah i was amazed too. i am seriously thinking about moving on to Chevy's!! my love for Rangers are starting to fade and all these problems just scare me more about all the things happening to my truck. it's funny though because my truck really didn't start doing all of these things until i started reading all these forums. so maybe we jinxed ourselves. so watch out!! thanks for the reply
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Are you saying you have a signal to the coil packs but no spark out?You need to start at the plug wires and check for spark progressively backwards with a spark tester, and then a digital multimeter upstream of the coil packs. Witha few diagnostic tools and a wiring diagram you'll find it.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    There is a grease needle that punctures the boot and allows you to force more grease inside the boot. Id on't know who sells it. My advice is unless it's making noise now, wait till it breaks and replace it with a greasable joint. It may waer out next week or you may get another 100,000 miles out of them. Tie rod ends are pretty cheap.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    You're looking at the TFI (Thick Film Ignition) module. It is attached with Torx screws. They did fail pretty commonly. You've got to get a wiring diagram for your truck and a digital mulitmeter so that you can test all the parts before you start replacing. You can spend $500 and still not fix the problem by shotgunning.
Sign In or Register to comment.