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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    With something as unique as what you have, I wouldn't think much of anybody would have any experience messing with it.

    Buy a new one. Do an internet search for the company that made it and see if they have manuals and/or parts.

    Call the company directly and talk to someone. (Yea, bet it's from China!!!!!)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Not much info to go on here....

    Is it 'missing'?

    If so, the first thing I would suggest is new plug and plug wires.

    This sounds like a vehicle that hasn't had much maintenance. Come on, tell the truth.

    Change the fuel filter. It might be clogged up badly.

    If the 'Check Engine' light is on, you need to have the codes pulled and diagnoised...
  • fordgrlfordgrl Posts: 2
    Does anyone know much about mudding???? Dummy me just bet that my 2wd ford ranger could go mudding like a 4wd dodge ram.... I am in opposition ford vs. dodge... I am sick of jokes against ford.... But the just is I need advice about mudding!!! help anyone!!!!!!
  • stacey25stacey25 Posts: 11
    Do you have mud tires?? What size engine is the Dodge cause believe me I hate Dodge trucks!! And how deep is the mud cause my guess is that you will definitely get stuck!! Is your truck manual or auto? As one Ford lover to another--the dodge will win--sorry!! :( I have seen it done!! Just let me know how that works out!!
  • feaganbfeaganb Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, new to this forum :shades:
    I've recently taken ownership of a 1990 Ranger. This truck sat for a number of years and I've gotten it back to good working condition. I've even taken it on an 8 hour trip and it went smoothly.
    Recently this came up - drive it for 10 minutes or so, enough to get it warm, and all the sudden I can't get any engine power. If I lightly press the pedal the engine still runs but feels like it's bogging down, have to pull over. Let it sit for 10 minutes, it will run for 5, then does it again. Check engine light does Not come on.
    Engine starts and idles fine. Runs good until this happens.

    I've replace the following - for this problem and general maintenance:
    Fuel pump, fuel filter, 1 ignition coil (top), spark plugs and wires, air filter and new muffler.

    Any input would be appreciated!
  • fordgrlfordgrl Posts: 2
    his dodge is big has a V6 engine. Mine of course isn't. I have great snow tires on right now. But I have weight in the back to help on the roads. I was gonna take out the weight but someone told me that helped in mudding..... Oh boy I gotta get out of this bet because I don't want his dodge pulling my ford....

  • hi, i have been trying to read these articles to find a solution to my problem,

    i have a 99 ranger and every time it rains or gets moisture outside i have a belt that squeaks and my passenger door makes my dome light come on. (door ajar) but if it is beautiful outside or snowing i don't have the problem of either one. my dad tried everything on the squeaky belt but it only works for about a day or so. but after the rain go's away the door shuts fine and the belt is quiet. oh yeah my back window also leaks as well. if anyone has any ideas let me know please :mad:
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Based on your description, I would look at fuel pressure first. A gauge will have to be connected to the test valve when the truck stalls. Even with the new fuel pump, a bad regulator can cause problems and even burn up a new pump motor.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Try spraying WD40 in the hole where the arm extends into the door frame. You may have a stuck door switch. The belt squeal may actually be a tension problem. A mechanic with a tension gauge can check it. You may have a failed belt tensioner, or loose accessory mounting bolts. The belt will probably need replacement, too as they tend to glaze when they slip.
  • hey, im new im just testing to see if this is how you post a text
  • please help!! does any one know the firing order for a 1986 v6 Ford ranger. This truck is killing me!!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Belt - The 'idler' pulley is usually spring loaded to maintain tension on the belt. Check that it moves freely and is keeping belt under tension. If this looks ok, I would just buy a new belt. While the belt is off, take your toothbrush and carb cleaner and clean all the 'groves' in the pulleys. Gunk in there could cause slippage. Buy a new toothbrush. (You probably need a new one anyway.)

    Door Ajar - The switch is inside the door, on the inside of the pull handle. You might be able to get WD40 or Electrical Cleaner on it from the outside, but a real cure would mean taking the door panel off and cleaning the switch or replacing it. Ranger are know for problems with these switches.

    Rear Window Leak - The seal around the 'high brake light' is known to leak, which looks like the window is leaking. Easier to fix than a leaking window.
  • stacey25stacey25 Posts: 11
    Yeah I would get out of that bet too! Just kind of suck it up and pretend in your head that the ford would win but I am sorry to say that the Dodge would probably be pulling you out or something else would be. We'll just say that both would get stuck and then a bigger Ford would have to pull both of the trucks out!! ;) Snow tires won't really help in the mud. Not real muddin anyway!! But I would keep it safe and not take your truck out just so you don't ruin anything on it!! Ok Have Fun and take care!! Stacey
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    No, it's not.
  • chuckjchuckj Posts: 1
    I have A 2001 Ranger Super Cab. My speed control quit working. When I hit the set switch the light on the dash just flickers. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • stacey25stacey25 Posts: 11
    Yeah, Get rid of your Ford Ranger!! ;)
    And get with a Chevy :shades:
    That's what i did after owning 2 Rangers :(
    You learn the hard way
  • peonymanpeonyman Posts: 6
    This module was a FORD part, presumedly what is used for the Canadian market where DRL's are required.
    Factory manual just shows a "black box" instead of internal components. I was hoping that something outside the module might have come loose or something.
    Ford on the internet is of no help.
  • esalinasesalinas Posts: 1
    Im new here so just sayin HI to begin with. I took my truck out off roading, its a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2wd 3.0L V6. I got stuck in mud and tried to rock it out. It is an automatic and we were rocking it but the first gear blew out and made kind of a whistling sound when the gas was being given. I know its just first gear because i can put it into 2nd and shift up to D and then it kicks in to OD on its own. I put it into D from a standstill whether from park or at a light and the engine just rev's like in N, but that little whistle sound keeps happening and like I said first gear doesnt work....HELP ME!!!
  • tfitchtfitch Posts: 3
    Yes I do. I have a 97 Ranger 2wd 3.0, it SUCKS in the snow and you have ZERO chance against any 4wd in mud. A Yugo would kick your [non-permissible content removed] in the mud. Power is transferred FROM the wheels that grip to the wheels that slip in the Ranger. I love the truck but I bought a Winch just to pull myself out everytime I get stuck.
  • tfitchtfitch Posts: 3
    He he. I had and have the same problems. I gave up on the dome light. it would come on at all weird times for no reason, I couldn't find a pattern so I just pulled the bulbs and learned to live without it.

    I am on my 5th serpentine belt and I have 128k on the truck. It sqweaks when its hot, when its cold when it rains and sometimes because it feels like it. It could sqweak all day and then not a sound for a week. I found that when I change it, it will not sqweak for about 5k or it will sqweak in 40 miles for a few days and then stop for like 4000 miles. I have tried EVERYTHING, silicone, cat litter, belt dressing (that stuff is GARBAGE), soap, alcohol, all sorts of other things. I currently suspect that antifreeze is dripping on it, just a little bit because I can smell it very easily, not a lot, just a drop or two now and then. I cannot find a leak anywhere, I could stare at it all day, but I swear this is the cause in my case. The other possibility that I had been thinking of -and have not ruled out is that one of the pulleys is bent and the belt is slightly angled and the edge is wearing, but staring at the belt after I pull it is not showing this.

    The good thing is the belt is Very easy to replace. There is a diagram under your hood and you only need a socket wrench to hold back the tensioner with a Strong arm (I climb on the engine) and another person to help remove the old belt while you hold it back. The harder part is getting the new belt on. It takes two people but the whole operation from start to finish can take you less than 10 minutes. A Lot better than throwing away the money at a shop.
  • tfitchtfitch Posts: 3
    i am getting this weird whirring sound. its a 97 3.0 auto 2wd 128K.
    The sound seems to be centered in the truck -like the tranny but its hard to tell. It doesn't change when the truck shifts gears but it does change with speed (higher as I go faster etc). It doesn't matter if I am under power or coasting. Above 45 it goes away and sometimes it seems to go away for days. I changed the bearings an front discs myself 6 months ago. I was very careful with the grease etc. and I don't "feel" anything from any of the corners. Any educated guesses? I checked the tranny fluid it looks fine. I never checked the rear though.
  • rangmarvrangmarv Posts: 1
    Have you found a solution to your break problem? I am having the same problem with a 99 Ranger. Would love to hear your solution.

  • fmc12fmc12 Posts: 8
    i have read several posts about dome light staying 95 did this and it was traced to a light module.the module is easy to get to after you remove the is silver in color.don't know about cost ,it was warranty.
  • i have an 88 2.9 4x4 ranger, 5 spd. I have been having the following problem for a while. In wet weather or when i go fast through puddles it starts to go through spells. Usually when this happens i can put the pedal to the floor or lightly touch the pedal and it will run as normal but anything in between makes it bog out; as if i lost all spark or fuel. This problem usually goes away shortly after when it dries off a bit. A couple days ago it was really wet out and it started the problem again, but this time anything more than approx. a quarter throttle and it cuts out and the problem has not gone away yet although i am expecting it to.
    Has anyone experienced this problem or know what it might me?
    Any input would be appreciated.
  • I have a 1994 Ford Ranger and the wiring harness for the O2 Sensor has melted... :( I have the new O2 sensor and everything but i was just going to splice the wires together to hook it up, but i can't find any diagrams or anything directing me on which wire from where the harness was would go to which wire on the O2 sensor. if you know where i can find a diagram or something of the sorts let me know... or if you know another better way of doing it. thanks
  • siasia Posts: 3
    Personally I would just get the whole harness and replace it, because if you splice the wire you can't be completly sure that it will carry the voltage the same as the unspliced wire would especially over time with water and debris getting into the connector, but if your set on doing it you should find a diagram in a repair manual(either home mechanic one or the shop one) and be very careful to waterproof it.

    P.S. for a cheap shop manual I have found that instead of paying 116 bucks for one check out thrift stores or used book stores the last shop manual I got at a thrift was 2 dollors/ but if you live in tucson don't try it till I find one for my new truck;)
  • siasia Posts: 3
    Well I just bought my first Ford ever, and I have to say that I like it more by the minute, It's a 2002 Ford ranger super cab 3.0L 2WD, and yes it has its issues but hey every thing does or we would never be on this website,

    !. My door switch does that stupid staying on thing but I figured it out I think, I saw someone mention it happens when it's cold, have you noticed if your windows is all the way up it does it? the air pressure of slamming the door pushes the weather stripping out and it rests inward too much( which the design is a little off since it will happen all the time when the weather strip wears down)

    2. My air conditioner compressor stays on no matter what position the switch is in which sucks when you want heat but don't want to have that bad of miliage especially when I drive 100 miles a day.
    I have yet to figure out the A/C problem so if anyone knows than let me know or when I find out I will post it.

    And I will end this with a note

    nothing ever "blows up" instantly, in a hour, or usually even a week so once a week drive your vehicle 10 miles with no music on a quiet road and listen to it, and just for extra caution do a 10 min inspection for leaks and such at the drivetrain (pay attention to the rear differitial I see so many trucks leaking back there while I drive around and I see alot of damage because of that) it won't kill anyone to spend 30 min of TV time on your truck instead.
    And most of all we all want to just jump into a new vehicle drive it 200,000 miles and abuse it without ever thinking about it but that never works for anything, So don't hate your truck because you slacked and it broke down just be happy you don't still drive your mom's Pinto ;)
  • siasia Posts: 3
    Why bother wondering what the whistle is? the tranny is blown and needs to be rebuilt regardless. but just for kicks, what might sound like a whistle could be air sucking into the the vacuum line going to the modulator valve, that can actually cause the tranny to act up real bad, but thats something that is some thing you have to hear for yourself to know what the sound is, And next time you want to go off road don't go with an automatic, they really are not designed for it.

  • darxxxdarxxx Posts: 4
    I have a '95 Ranger, which I purchased new, and now has 230,000kms on it. The check engine light has been on since around 85,000kms. The dealer said it was a defective emissions sensor and would not cause a breakdown. I never did get the part replaced (I kept putting it off), and have never had a problem with the engine. I know that is not the proper thing to do, but it's still running strong, although I do have some strange heater/lighting problems going on that I'm going to have to start a discussion about.
  • darxxxdarxxx Posts: 4
    The heater's fan control switch (rheostat?) would only work on the highest setting. When I switched it on yesterday, something shorted out and I lost my headlights and instrument panel lights....weird. With the heater turned off, the park lights work, but when I turn on my headlights the dash lights go out again. As I turn up my fan control the lights get dimmer. Anybody ever experience something as strange as this?? I wonder if I removed the fuse for the heater altogether, would the lights return to normal, and would replacing the switch fix the problem? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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