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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • pattystacepattystace Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the shop won out and they replaced the master - they were insistant that was the problem even though there were no signs of leakage. I figure they are the experts. Here's the deal. They said "all fixed." I said "fabulous!" Picked-up my truck last night after hours and the clutch pedal now has about 4 inches of play at top end, feels sloppy, only fully engages when it's about 1" off the floor, and getting into first gear when you stop is difficult. They replaced: slave & master, installed a clutch kit (figured it was a good idea while they had it apart w/115K on the clutch). Now that can't be right, RIGHT? How were you finally able to get it bled properly? Desperate in Chicago for advice to get my wheels movin' again.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14

    The truck is finally fixed. After 5 trips to 3 different dealerships. It was the PCM (power control module). The part is located in the engine right up against the firewall on the passenger side. Black box about 5" long or so and 2" or so wide.

    It is the computer of the truck as far as I could understand it. Want the really good is covered for 8yrs through ford whether you have an extended warranty or not. Sad news is I paid one dealership $420 for labor and an alternator that I didn't need. They though it was sending spikes through the system. Now I'm arguing with them about getting some of my money back.

    But anyways, it is the PCM, covered under warranty. You will have to get a new key for your truck, which they provided me for free since they have the electronic chip built in them for theft purposes.

    Hope this helps.
  • cheimercheimer Posts: 1
    What color is the Accessory WireIn the audio system on my 2005 Ford Ranger...I'm putting in a system and can't get any help...anyone here know?
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    The first thing you have to do is pull the cluster out of the dash and determine whats broke. If it's the cable then you can buy a replacement and fix it easy. The only other thing it can really be is in the speedo itself. It's all geared out in there to run the odometer, speed, and trip at one time. To test the gauge itself, once it's pulled out get a piece of wire or a small driver bit of some kind and a drill you'll see where it hooks in on the back. Run the drill and you'll see the gauge needle run up, Make sure you have the drill running the right way, or you'll run the numbers backwards. If the needle moves,then its the cable that needs to be replaced. Also when your taking out the cluster the speedo cable is usually held in place with a clip on the back that all you need to do is push in and the cable will slide out
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    My 93' ranger sucks. O.K. heres the thing. It's a 2.3L, 5 speed manual. It's seems like the truck is being starved for fuel and/or not firing correctly. It starts fine, idles fine, but when I start to move it has power surges. 1st gear you can't really notice it, 2nd gear it's still not too bad because you run through it too fast. 3rd gear it's really noticeable at around 25 to 30 mph (no tach) it's kind of choppy on acceleration at 35mph it's like everything finally gets the idea and you can feel a surge of power. 4th gear it runs, but stays in that choppy feeling , just a lot of little bucking and jerking going down the road.5th gear is almost unheard of right now because at anything under 65 it wants to bog down and I have to drop back into 4th to keep up any speed. I've only had the truck about a year, but I know the guy that I bought it from did all the maintance on it and treated it well. Since I've owned it I've put a fuel filter on it, replaced one coil pack, ignition module, and had it to the shop a few times to get the codes ran and erased. It tells me now that that I have these codes
    218: loss of left side of IDM signal
    222: loss of right side of IDM signal
    223: loss of Duel Plug Inhibit control
    224: Primary circuit failure in coil 1,2,3 or 4
    My mechanic doesn't know what to do, because it won't "act up" for him
    Any ideas will help. :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • maryjohmaryjoh Posts: 3
    my wipers come on for no dome light will stay on after closing the door.eventually it will go off.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, it looks like these errors all relater to coil packs, ignition module, and their wiring. Is something disconnected? Bent pins in connectors? Something loose from the previous replacements?

    I think you need a new shop. When the truck is setting these codes, there are procedures to check for each code. A decent mechanic should be able to track down exactly what is causing your problems. It doesn't need to 'act up' with a mechanic, it is setting error codes. These tell what is going wrong. If you are paying someone to mess with this truck several times, it might be time to take it to a Ford place, someone that should be seeing these errors and fixing them, every day.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It would be very helpful if you would tell us the year, motor, and transmission of your truck.

    Wiper problems many times are the 'multi-control' switch. In other words, there is one switch for the stalk with the turn signals, wipers, cruise, etc. And it wears out. Inside the steering column.

    Dome light problems are also rampant with mid-90 models. The switch is inside the door, on the handle/lock mechanism. To really get to the switch, the door panel must be removed. Spray switch with electrical cleaner or replace it.
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    This has been an ongoing problem with Rangers for eons OK at least since the early or mid 90's. These were some fixes that were posted back then that I saved for such instances.

    The following is based on observation of my 1999 Ranger, other years may be different. I fixed the phantom windshield wipers myself, you can too. It turns out all you need to do is clean the switch up.To clean the switch does NOT require removing the turn signal from the steering column and takes about ten minutes.1. On the turn signal lever, remove the end cap with a small screwdriver.2. Remove the phillips screw located under the end cap.3. WATCH IT! there is a spring to push back against the wiper rotating knob. Hold in the wiper switch so it won't go flying.4. WATCH IT! again. When removing the wiper rotating switch there are two detents that are pressed against the inside of the knob (with another small spring pushing against each other) to give detents to the different levels of wiper delay when you rotate the knob.5. Inside you will see the switch wiper mounted to a white plastic piece that you can just pull out. It looks kind of weird with 4 arms and an elbow wiper coming out of it.6. After you pull out the switch wiper just gently clean everything inside, a sort of circuit board looking goodie with rings for the switch wiper to rotate on.I used a rag and a small (jewelers) screwdriver to clean the board inside and very carefully made sure the gaps between the traces were clean. There is quite a bit of grease in there.I reassembled the switch using lubriplate (it was handy) and it was very easy to disassemble and to reassemble.I have had no re-occurrence of the phantom windshield wiper and I don't miss it a bit.

    For the lights coming on and staying on and or the door ajar warning going on at the same time, the swithc is in the door below the door jamb. After taking the door panel off you can reach in and remove the switch or if you have small arms like me you can go in and spray eclectrical contac cleaner on the switch. Try this on the door latch firts to see if it will trickle down to the switch Some poeple don't recommend using wd40 as ti cn get gummy after ahwile and collect dirt. here is the item, posted along time ago to correct this ailment:
    First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
    Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
    The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
    There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
    Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
    Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
    Hope this info helps!
  • justingjusting Posts: 1
    My Ranger has a problem with the passenger door causing the interior light to stay on even when it is closed. Any suggestions???
  • ranger99ranger99 Posts: 2
    I just found out that my 99 ranger can run on some sort of corn gas. Anyone know how I can find out where to purchase this type of gas??? The guy at the shop told me it is a lot cheaper than regular gas. Thanks??
  • ranger99ranger99 Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my Ranger, I just sprayed some WD40 on it and haven't had a problem since.
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    O.K. Well it turns out that with a little research and luck and I think I've got ti fixed. For one now both coils are new, plus a general tune-up. Plugs and wires. Seems to have made quite a bit of difference. Gonna run code scanner on it in the morning after I get to work and see what it says.
  • jshaw01jshaw01 Posts: 3
    I have a 90 Ranger with a 2.9L and 5 spd. It runs great but occaisionally it will not start due to the fuel pump not running. This has only happened in warm weather after the vehicle has been run and is completely warmed up. It has never cut out, or even had a rough idle, while running. I suspect a relay that is heat sensitive and is cooled adequately while running, by the fan, but I can't find such.
    Any suggestions on the location of said relay or other solutions?
  • rbookrbook Posts: 2

    I changes the Speed Sensor on the rear like the guy earlier requested and it fixed my problem. If it starts acting up again I will change the PCM, but thanks for the follow up on the problem.

  • I fixed the interior light staying on thing. The door switch got a little sticky, some silicone spray fixed it. :D
  • My son was stuck in Texas recently when his truck would only click. He took it to a guy who apparently cleaned up the starter solenoid contacts, and promised to order some kind of voltage module. Now it starts, but then only once until the starter has a chance to cool off for an hour. He says the voltage module is sending too high voltage to the starter/solenoid, causing burning. Is he blowing smoke? Did Ford really put an 8 volt starter in a 12 volt system. :surprise:
  • mrd2001mrd2001 Posts: 1
    I have a 89 2.3 ranger and a scanner is telling me to replace the cts But I can't find it. I looked at a newer truck and found it in the heater core line, but my motor is a different configuration. Help it wouldn't idle when cold.
  • csgeocsgeo Posts: 5
    I just got a 1997 ranger 3.0 and it has trouble starting below about 40F. I changed plugs and wires when I got it, as they were original. I cleaned the throttle body/intake and the idle control valve. It runs great otherwise vacuum is good with no flutter. I suspect it may be the idle valve, or is there a start circuit on the ignition like on a distributor ignition?

  • drakebdrakeb Posts: 1
    I was driving along at about 55 when the truck started slowing down and stalled. Smoke was coming out of the engine compartment. I pushed the vehicle into the median. A lot of stuff was melted around the alternator. When I got it to the shop (and rented a car in the meantime) they found that the positive leadwire from the alternator had separated from its lug and was arcing. The arcing went on until my battery died and I stalled. The only unusual occurrence during his event was that the ABS light came on - that's all. The damage was 2 heater hoses, an alternator, one radiator hose, serpentine belt, two electrical harnesses, and a battery (would not recharge). The repair cost was slightly under $1,000.
  • dmb0743dmb0743 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Ranger that the door ajar light and the bell will not turn off. Both doors are shut securely. The overhead light stays on part of the time, but not very often. I have tried to replace the contact switches on both doors, but it had no effect. Anyone who can help please do....the dinging is driving me nuts.
  • lunchboxlunchbox Posts: 2
    Hey ok i uh have a question. Ok i bought a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge, my first vehicle ever purchaseing, and this is my problem. Now im not to savy when it come to this kind of stuf so bear with me. The truck has a 3 inch lift on it and 35 inch tires. Its a 6 cylinder, and thats about all i actually know about the engine. I have no problems with it except when i hit about 75-80, then i just don't go any faster, and if i'm going up hill i loose power like its cool. Depending on the grade of the slope determines whether or not i have to shift to 3rd gear or not. Its a 5 speed but i might as well consider it 4 becasue unless im on a flat surface or going down hill, 5th gear is toatally out of the question. I asked a buddy why this is, he seemed to know what he's talking about and mentioned that the tires i have for the truck are too big... the truck not being made to have tires that big will naturally loose power. Is this true? i havent gone to a mechanic yet because i dont wanna spend money that might not need to be spent if i can ask people who im sure will know what they are talking about... It just seems a little strange to me that the truck will loose so much power because of the tire size. I can understand a little power, but seriously, on a flat surface i wont go no more than 80, and lets not talk about uphill. Can anyone out there help me... Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Your buddy is right. Big tires take more power to turn.

    And I think attempting to drive 80mph, and even more, is extremely dangerous on 35inch tires and 3inch lift. The tires and lift have changed a lot of the suspension alignments and make the truck handle worse than the stock setup.

    Plus, any Ranger is speed limited by the computer to something in the range of 92mph.

    My god, a truck is a brick on wheels. And you have one lifted and huge tires. Take it out in the mud if you wish, but don't drive this thing fast.
  • huntnreidhuntnreid Posts: 2
    I wonder if you could tell me how you resolved the problem with the 4.0 engine. I recently bought a rebuilt v6 4.0 engine from Ford. The problem is oil consumption. I put 4 quarts of oil in in just 3500 miles between my last oil change. I went back to Frod and they told me under Ford policy it is considered normal if an engine burns a quart of oil every 800 miles. I am trying to find out what their policy really is before I take the fight to them. Please let me know if you know where I can find any info on it or if you or any one else knows.

    Thanks, Reid
  • huntnreidhuntnreid Posts: 2
    Ford will always tell you it is nornal. When dealing with warranty work you really have to push them. I am going through the same thing with a rebuilt engine. I am using a quart of oil every 850 miles and they told me that too is normal.
  • lunchboxlunchbox Posts: 2
    Hey thanks Bolivar, i appreciate the input. Now my question is what can i do to make up for some of that lost power... not to drive fast or anything but so i can get up these slopes. As i said before im not to savy on the whole vehicle knowledge but is driving 50-55 in third gear safe? I mean for the truck and all. Thats usually what i have to do when i hit up hill roads.
  • andreww244andreww244 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger and the other day the knob on the headlight switch came off. The switch itself, behind the panel, fell away from the hole and so even with needle nose pliers it's hard to grab the post and turn the lights on and off.

    There's a fuse panel just to the left side and I opened that and managed to pull the light switch out (still wired) and noticed that it seemed to have been attached to the back of the panel by screws into a couple of posts. Those posts have broken off of the back of the panel.

    So, now I'm wondering how to fix this. I don't actually know much about cars. I'm thinking if I can get the panel off maybe I can glue those posts back on or jury rig something - but I don't even know how to get the panel off.

    Anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions for fixing it (short of plunking down a couple of hundred bucks at the dealer)?

  • badnessbadness Posts: 242
    hey pal drop a tire size and you will get you power and you will be able to make it up your hills,even 33's will still look cool or even 32's will look cool,I would say 32's would be the best bet.,thoe everything has to do with the gearing thoe.
  • bosabosa Posts: 1
    my 1999 3.0 4x4 ranger has recently had a new pcm installed and now i am having a problem with my truck stalling out alot and being very hard to get resarted. It seemed like a fuel problem so i changed the fuel filter and it seemed to work but was short lived. now i beleive it has something to do with my new pcm and the chips in my keys. 1 of the times it was acting funny my anti theft light came on and was flashing very fast and then started giving me a code of 1 6 then went away. the next time i stalled i did not get this same light on. has any1 ever experienced this problem b4 or have a repair manual that lists this code in it? also when i am stalled and trying to restart my engine seems very jerky and will shake the whole truck pretty bad but under normal starts is very smooth. thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Put 4.11 rearend gears in it.

    Course, driving in 3rd and 4th gear does the same thing.

    Or, as the other poster said, reduce the size of the tires.
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