Mazda Protege Accessories and Modifications

the_big_h

you mean it's conceivable that I can do it MYSELF or find someone else that is good with cars and have them install it for me using the instructions????

so if i call up a nearby dealer and give them the part # you posted, that'll order the full kit (including the instruction)?

man if that's the case, I'll have to seriously consider doing the fogs....

maltb

but you could do it yourself or bribe a trusted friend with a 6-pack. Note: Do not consume alcoholic beverages while servicing your vehicle. (standard disclaimer) With limited experience, plan on spending a Saturday in the garage.

Yes, that is the full kit part number.

the_big_h

I shall start making phone calls...

thanks again...

H

conheady

CustomAutoparts.com
has the following in stock for 99-00 Pros:
EURO TAIL LENSES
In Clear, Carbon fiber, Red, purple and greenI don't know what the color means because the pictures are all of the clear one. We'll have to e-mail them and get them up update their picts.

They also have Headlight covers in clear and smoke as well as indiglo gauges.

jstandefer

For the info on Pro accessories! I would love to see what the indilo gauges look like, and the turn-signal mirrors are very interesting.

tocan

There is a picture on the customautoparts.com web site, but it doesn't really show what they would look like in the dark. I'd also be interested in seeing what they really look like, but since I am not an automotive tinkerer by any stretch of the imagination, it is probably completely irrelevant to me.

Nomi

lindathomp2000

Does anybody have a nosemask for the 2001 ES? I paid for one when I got my car but the dealer says they 'aren't available yet' and he will let me know when it comes in.
Linda, who is enjoying zoom-zooming around upstate NY even though there is, as we speak, 2 feet of snow on the ground.

maltb

Linda,
They are available. Check with your dealer for part number 0000-8G-C01 and if they don't have it in stock, they can get it from their Parts Distribution Center.

nikecar

these aren't Protege indiglo pics, but rather Altima ones.. so you can see what the effect is at night..



they are white during the day.. there is a little toggle switch that you change colors with..

conheady

I saw the Dealer Mask on some pro the other day. definitely like the LeBra brand a lot better than the Mazda version. I bought my LeBra for $50 from JC Whittney. I just don't like the way it covers the Mazda logo with a net. I was looking for a Mazda Emblem that I can attach on top of the net- man that would look good. I know Corksport has them, but I'd rather search elsewhere. Anyone have a part number on a Mazda Flying M emblem?

How difficult are those indiglo gauges to install? Anyone know?

vocus

I was thinking about getting those for my ES, but I like the way the red lighting on the gauges looks. I will probably leave it the same.

With the gauges, I know the dashboard has to be taken apart and the connectors and all have to be changed. Maybe not a big deal for someone with experience in that department, but that's definitely not me!

maltb

A duplicate of your front emblem is P/N S41A-51-731A and sells for around $11.00

nikecar

Well, I have no clue on how to do them on Proteges, but for the Altimas, you have to take the display portion of the dash out and pull the instrument cluster out. The Indiglos just fit each display guage.. But with Altimas, care must be given to not mess the need up or the whole thing gets screwed up.. But from what I've heard its a really easy process.. under an hour for most folks.. just remember to disconnect the battery so the airbag don't deploy by accident or anything.. Also, you have to connect the switch for the on/off color switch..

here's an ebay site with what more or less they look like..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=575316424&r=0&t=0

and installation for Altima instructions.. you can infer they are slightly similar for Proteges..

They will lay ovre the stock gauges.

They hole are cut big enough that they will snuggly fit around the needles.

Feed the needles through carefully and then press them down firmly. The

gauge surround will "trap" th overlay down firmly to the faces when you put

the cluster back together. There should be a hole in the back of the gauge

cluster. Note to run the wires through the gauge cluster it might be

neccessary to remove the speedo or tach or both using the screws that go in

from the back. Run the wires through and put the whole thing back together.

Next put the invertors black box under the dash in a place where the keypad

will reach wherever it is that you want it to be. Run the red and black

wire up through the dash to the wiring harness that goes into the gauge

cluster. You will probably see a red and a black wire. This is common, but

sometimes the red wire is yellow instead. The idea is that the red power

wire should only get current when the headlight (accessory) is turned on.

You will probably need a wire tester. Unfortunately I have not yet found a

wire diagram for the Altima, so I am not to sure about the wire colors

exactly. It is a sinch that if there is a black wire going to the cluster

is the ground. If you have a tester that has a alligator style clip on the

end I like to stick a narrow metal screw in the alligator clip and stick

that on the gauge cluster ground then test the leads that look to be the

power wires by touching them with the end of the tester. Make sure your

dash dimmer is turned light dimmer switch is turned up all the way or else

the power might be to slight for the tester to pick it up. This does two

thing, not only does it help you find the power lead but it tests the ground

lead. I use electrotaps to connect the indiglo power wires to the dash

gauge cluster wires without having to splice anything. Make sure the dash

light are off when you connect the power leads. I know this all sounds like

a big pain. I hoped to have the instructions and pictures ready before

anyone out there was actually trying to install them. When the wiring is

done and tested, I like to hook up the gauges to the invertor to make sure

it is all working then put the dash back together. Lastly mount the digital

keypad on the dash by removing the wax covering on the 3M tape. I like to

use a little alcohol or something to scrub the dash down to remove any

finger greese or armour all that might keep the 3M from sticking properly.

You won't really have to worry about that suff it is really sticky. Make

sure you are putting it where it is going to stay, because its probably

going to be there forever.

norcan

Has anyone added any audio components? I have a 01 ES with 6-CD changer that I am happy with, don't want to change, however would like more BASS at normal volume - without cranking. I also don't care if anyone can hear the stereo outside my car, I you know what I mean. My dealer said the rear door is 'speaker ready'. Could I get wanted results there or would I need to add some sort of 'woofer' elsewhere? Also hope this would not overwhelm high end of existing speakers.

nikecar

you could upgrade your rear speakers for ones that have a lower freq range. you should notice a difference right away.. also, consider an amp.. it will boost your bass you have now..

sfrat

According to my window sticker that came with the car, it says it has 4 speakers, but in the car it looks like there are spaces for six (2 front door, 2 rear doors, two back shelf). So are the door spots empty but speaker ready? Does the US version have six speakers standard? I'm just curious. Would be a good spot to put some bass speakers, or maybe just another pair of good midranges. Haven't seen anything in Mazda accessories for additional speakers in rear door panels though.

Steve

vocus

I have heard that the rear doors are not speaker ready, other than the spaces. You could try though.

maltb

There is a hole in the rear door body for a round speaker which would be nice for some small woofers. I doubt there is wiring for them, but you could run it along the existing harness for a clean installation.

jstandefer

I would change the stock speakers. I keep talking about it for myself... one of these days. The stock speakers are 25W Pioneer with a single paper cone and a foam surround.

I'm looking at a pair of Infiniti Kappa three-way speakers up front, and a pair of Pioneer two-way speakers in back. The Infiniti's are expensive (about $250/pair) but put out excellent mid-to-high frequencies. The Pioneer's are cheaper (about $120/pair) and have good low-to-mid response for better bass. I may possibly add a small amp (maybe 50W) just to get better quality sound since the head unit is 32W per channel.

I also plan to add sound insulation in the doors, trunk, and floor. This will really help with the road noise and bring up the sound system's perceived quality.

vocus

From all these improvements you are talking about, I guess you plan on keeping your ES for awhile?

conheady

http://www.autodash.com

...has a wide selection of custom wood and carbon fiber dash kits for the 99-01 Pro. Word is that this is the best custom dash supplier out there. Any one already have a custom dash? I considering the brushed aluminum or grey carbon fiber for my Grey ES interior.

Prices $128.00 -$170.00

vocus

I have enough brushed aluminum with the accents that the 2001 ES comes with.

conheady

WoodTrim.com has real brushed aluminum kits for the Pro. (20% off and free shipping if you order today).

the_big_h

nice, but I actually like the golfball dimple accents on my 00 ES, so I'll just keep what I have right now :P

nice dash kits nontheless

the_big_h

OK, I took the easy way out and bought the lamp covers instead of the fog light kits. But even the covers are so hard to install, the openings under the bumper are so hard to reach it's difficult to put any force onto the screws. Any tips/tricks on how to put them on more easily?

thanks

conheady

get one of those bent screw drivers to screw them in. I got mine at the hardware store for under $5.

gitarzan

When you ask for one, ask for an OFFSET screwdriver. No need to to entertain the guys at the hardware store at your expense.

the_big_h

was able to put on all the screws and install those plastic covers. I went to Sears, saw those "offset" screws, but instead bought a mini ratcheting screwdriver, figuring that'll make it easier turning the screws at an awkward angle. It still took me a good hour and a half manuevering under the bumper and some clever combination use of the ratchet screwdriver with a large flathead screwdriver to get them all in.

finally, no more gaping holes showing on my front bumper!

chikoo

I ripped it off my dealers shirt!!

and all he could do was give me a big SMILE

nikecar

what is it??? Oil cap or fuel cap?

maltb

vocus

It looks like a button cover for a shirt. Since he said "he took it off his dealer's shirt" I would think that's what it is.

chikoo

can use it as a tie pin too..if your tie is thin enough..

nikecar

ok.. I can see where that is coming from..

fowler3

gibber...here is the tirerack.com web site for Nitto and other tire tests.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/uhpas.html

jstanderfer... that bumper cap makes the Pro look like a Nissan Sentra!

fowler3

fowler3

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/tiretype.htm#Passenger

and click on the different types. I know I read something about Nitto on that last night.

fowler3

digidave

If you want to just add some more punch to the existing audio output, I'd recommend a "bazooka tube" in the trunk. Comes with a built-in amp to power either a pair of 6" or 8" (10" available as well?) woofers in a tube-like enclosure which doesn't consume much trunk space at all. Seen them for aroung $235 US. I know someone who had one in an escort and it was pretty decent.

I was considering that but have opted to install a 10" single subwoofer that will be powered by a 4 channel amp, which will also power the front two speakers (replaced with a pair of Polk's). The factory rears will remain as "filler" since there's no real requirement for loudness from them; the bass will resonate from the back and the front doors will provide a significant enough increase in sound over the factory ones. Hope this helps...

Dave

newcar31

I have a question for anyone who can answer: If you lower a Protoge, can you adjust the camber, or do you need a camber kit like hondas?

groharlem

sorry to break it to ya. But you really shouldn't need one if your lowered about 1.5"s or less. :P

nikecar

from the car's I've seen and folks I've known... unless you do a 2" drop or more, you shouldn't need a camber kit.. a 1.4" drop should be fine..

newcar31

I just wanted to know if it is possible to adjust the camber. You don't necessarily have to adjust the camber on ANY lowered car, as long as you don't mind un-even tire wear. You also will pay big $$$ rotating your tires (and getting new ones often) since they are directional and the tires will wear on the inside, you will have to dismount the tires (pain in the [non-permissible content removed] with 50 series tires) everytime you rotate them if you do it right. My integra was lowered 1.5 inches and the camber was so off that you could SEE it. The tires wore horribly.

maltb

The only stock adjustment you have is +30'. This adjustment is made by changing the location of the strut by loosening the tower mounting bolts and shifting the upper mount. Of course 30' is not much at all.

newcar31

I guess I am not going to lower it then. My experience with camber kits is not good, at least with Honda/Acura. They start squeeking after about a month and I know for sure they were installed right. I guess its a common problem with camber kits and a problem that I could do without on a brand new car. Oh well, it looks pretty good as it is. Thanks for the info anyway.

nikecar

haven't heard of problems with the Altima folks with Camber kits...

vocus

I have a pair of aftermarket fog lamps I bought from VehicleLighting.com for my 1999 DX model when I had it. All the wiring, switch, and all is included. I paid $60 for these lights (they are projector-beam type), but will let them go for $30, including the shipping and handling. Post here or e-mail me if anyone wants them.

E-mail is lanhamdata@yahoo.com

Thanks!

norcan

digidave. Thanks for the info - let me know how your upgrade turns out! 2 options were mentioned, trunk tube and amp/woofers. I want solid bass at normal volume - that's my goal - which option would deliver? I'd appreciate any Pro-owners expertise!

Norcan

digidave

From my experience, the tube is a quick and dirty way of adding some additional solid "thumping" bass to stock speaker systems. The smaller diameter of the tube's speakers is why. It "adds" to your existing setup (as compared to "modifying" it) by giving you more amplified low frequencies without taking anything away from your other speakers. If you pretty much like how things sound now, try the tube to see what it "adds" to that enjoyment.

For deeper, booming solid sound, clean on the inside up to annoying, vibrating on the outside (you know, the kind that sets off car alarms as you drive by) you'd want the amp / subwoofer combination. The larger the diameter of the sub (10" / 12" / 15"), the deeper the output. With a good quality amp, you're basically snatching the low end frequencies (i.e. ~40Hz up to 150Hz) and reproducing them on the sub, with the higher frequencies being sent to your factory (or replaced) speakers (using a crossover). This keeps those speakers from struggling to reproduce bass, extending the life of them (although some do a good job of providing full range output)

My upgrade will be done this week. Will let y'all know how it goes.

Dave

newcar31

What size are the Protoge's speakers? They look like 6x9s in the back and 6.5s in the front. If that is right, I wouldn't even mess with a sub. Get a good set of 6x9s and 6.5s, a nice 4 channel amp, and you will have a very good sounding stereo that isn't too "ghetto". I have heard really good amp powered Boston 6x9s that produce bass that sounds like a small sub. With your 4 channel amp, you can switch to high pass for the front channels so you don't strain the 6.5s with bass. If you get high quality speakers and a decent 4 channel like a punch 400, your stereo will be rockin, and you will still have all the trunk space.

nikecar

Crutchfield says it accepts 6x9's in the rear.. and 6 1/2's for the front..

groharlem

Buy and Infinity Basslink. They go for like $250 off ebay, and have MUCH BETTER quality than a basstube. Those basstubes sound like @$$. My friend had one in his car. THe basslink is similar, but is a box rather than a tube, with a built in 200 watt class D amplifier. It sound nice too. I just bought one for my 93 LX.

-------

Wil

http://groharlem.tripod.com