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Mazda Protege Accessories and Modifications
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so if i call up a nearby dealer and give them the part # you posted, that'll order the full kit (including the instruction)?
man if that's the case, I'll have to seriously consider doing the fogs....
Yes, that is the full kit part number.
thanks again...
H
has the following in stock for 99-00 Pros:
EURO TAIL LENSES
In Clear, Carbon fiber, Red, purple and greenI don't know what the color means because the pictures are all of the clear one. We'll have to e-mail them and get them up update their picts.
They also have Headlight covers in clear and smoke as well as indiglo gauges.
Nomi
Linda, who is enjoying zoom-zooming around upstate NY even though there is, as we speak, 2 feet of snow on the ground.
They are available. Check with your dealer for part number 0000-8G-C01 and if they don't have it in stock, they can get it from their Parts Distribution Center.
they are white during the day.. there is a little toggle switch that you change colors with..
How difficult are those indiglo gauges to install? Anyone know?
With the gauges, I know the dashboard has to be taken apart and the connectors and all have to be changed. Maybe not a big deal for someone with experience in that department, but that's definitely not me!
here's an ebay site with what more or less they look like..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=575316424&r=0&t=0
and installation for Altima instructions.. you can infer they are slightly similar for Proteges..
They will lay ovre the stock gauges.
They hole are cut big enough that they will snuggly fit around the needles.
Feed the needles through carefully and then press them down firmly. The
gauge surround will "trap" th overlay down firmly to the faces when you put
the cluster back together. There should be a hole in the back of the gauge
cluster. Note to run the wires through the gauge cluster it might be
neccessary to remove the speedo or tach or both using the screws that go in
from the back. Run the wires through and put the whole thing back together.
Next put the invertors black box under the dash in a place where the keypad
will reach wherever it is that you want it to be. Run the red and black
wire up through the dash to the wiring harness that goes into the gauge
cluster. You will probably see a red and a black wire. This is common, but
sometimes the red wire is yellow instead. The idea is that the red power
wire should only get current when the headlight (accessory) is turned on.
You will probably need a wire tester. Unfortunately I have not yet found a
wire diagram for the Altima, so I am not to sure about the wire colors
exactly. It is a sinch that if there is a black wire going to the cluster
is the ground. If you have a tester that has a alligator style clip on the
end I like to stick a narrow metal screw in the alligator clip and stick
that on the gauge cluster ground then test the leads that look to be the
power wires by touching them with the end of the tester. Make sure your
dash dimmer is turned light dimmer switch is turned up all the way or else
the power might be to slight for the tester to pick it up. This does two
thing, not only does it help you find the power lead but it tests the ground
lead. I use electrotaps to connect the indiglo power wires to the dash
gauge cluster wires without having to splice anything. Make sure the dash
light are off when you connect the power leads. I know this all sounds like
a big pain. I hoped to have the instructions and pictures ready before
anyone out there was actually trying to install them. When the wiring is
done and tested, I like to hook up the gauges to the invertor to make sure
it is all working then put the dash back together. Lastly mount the digital
keypad on the dash by removing the wax covering on the 3M tape. I like to
use a little alcohol or something to scrub the dash down to remove any
finger greese or armour all that might keep the 3M from sticking properly.
You won't really have to worry about that suff it is really sticky. Make
sure you are putting it where it is going to stay, because its probably
going to be there forever.
Steve
I'm looking at a pair of Infiniti Kappa three-way speakers up front, and a pair of Pioneer two-way speakers in back. The Infiniti's are expensive (about $250/pair) but put out excellent mid-to-high frequencies. The Pioneer's are cheaper (about $120/pair) and have good low-to-mid response for better bass. I may possibly add a small amp (maybe 50W) just to get better quality sound since the head unit is 32W per channel.
I also plan to add sound insulation in the doors, trunk, and floor. This will really help with the road noise and bring up the sound system's perceived quality.
...has a wide selection of custom wood and carbon fiber dash kits for the 99-01 Pro. Word is that this is the best custom dash supplier out there. Any one already have a custom dash? I considering the brushed aluminum or grey carbon fiber for my Grey ES interior.
Prices $128.00 -$170.00
nice dash kits nontheless
thanks
finally, no more gaping holes showing on my front bumper!
I ripped it off my dealers shirt!!
and all he could do was give me a big SMILE
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/uhpas.html
jstanderfer... that bumper cap makes the Pro look like a Nissan Sentra!
fowler3
and click on the different types. I know I read something about Nitto on that last night.
fowler3
I was considering that but have opted to install a 10" single subwoofer that will be powered by a 4 channel amp, which will also power the front two speakers (replaced with a pair of Polk's). The factory rears will remain as "filler" since there's no real requirement for loudness from them; the bass will resonate from the back and the front doors will provide a significant enough increase in sound over the factory ones. Hope this helps...
Dave
E-mail is lanhamdata@yahoo.com
Thanks!
Norcan
For deeper, booming solid sound, clean on the inside up to annoying, vibrating on the outside (you know, the kind that sets off car alarms as you drive by) you'd want the amp / subwoofer combination. The larger the diameter of the sub (10" / 12" / 15"), the deeper the output. With a good quality amp, you're basically snatching the low end frequencies (i.e. ~40Hz up to 150Hz) and reproducing them on the sub, with the higher frequencies being sent to your factory (or replaced) speakers (using a crossover). This keeps those speakers from struggling to reproduce bass, extending the life of them (although some do a good job of providing full range output)
My upgrade will be done this week. Will let y'all know how it goes.
Dave
-------
Wil
http://groharlem.tripod.com