GMC Sierra/Chevy Silverado 2500 & 3500 - II

bigorangefan

for those of you out there that are interested, i just turned 1,000 miles on my 2500cc 4x4 8.1 allison 4.10 with 245's and averaged 10.2 to 11.1 city hwy combined. love the truck very happy with the 4.10, will be putting 285's on next week along with a snug lid, should help mileage a bit but if i wanted mpg i would have bought a honda civic. for those of you that are still waiting believe me it's well worth it.

dkelder

Mark Go with the Duels from the cats Back Great sounding no Back pressure left here.
I did A 99 6-litre I`be heard A lot of different
types But Mine sounds great. little Loud not too
bad though.
Not A Lot of Raw Noise Just real good tone.

owenm1

I'll be interested to hear how the 285's work out.
What kind of tires?
I have an 8.1 with 4:10's on order. Keep in touch!

Owen

mgdvhman

Plan on getting the 8.1/4:10's also...and would like to know how 285's work....and if you plan on putting them on the stock wheels?...I know they are kinda narrow...but some claim no problems.....I'm concerned what it does to the sidewall bulge and what kinda wear pattern it gives....(how flat the tread sits on the ground)

- Tim

bigorangefan

ill keep you posted on mileage after the 285's go on, probably bfg at's and yes i'am going to mount them on the stock wheels, was talking to a gentlemen at the gas station who had the same setup and showed me you don't have to trim anything for clearance with the stock wheels because they have the proper offset, he had appx 2500k on his tires and they appeared to be wearing evenly with no bulge.

lol
Chris

mgdvhman

..just wondering how they wear

- Tim

sf0383

I had a cat back dual exhaust system put on this morning with Flowmaster 40 Delta Flow mufflers. Took it back this afternoon and had them cut off and replaced with another brand. The 40's were all the place had and they were loud to the point of being rediculous. Replacements are more in line with what I had in mind. The flowmaster 70's may be what I needed but like I said they weren't in stock. Oh well, live and learn.

markbuck

Well, 180 miles thus far. Love the HD 5speed manual. With the 6.0L, in OD with LT245/75-16 tires, it is right at 30mph/1000rpm. Maybe a tad higher rpm than the 4.8L/LD5speed/245.

At cruise and empty, the heavier ~2000lbs? truck accelerates as well if not better than my old truck. Doesn't climb hills as well.

Really happy. Dog loves the rear seat fold down setup.

Gas gauge seems to be moving quicker than with the 1500/4.8 even though I am really light-footing it.

Love the granny 1st gear with the HD.

mgdvhman

...How firm is the rear seat surface when folded?...i didn't check that..

GRRRR

- Tim

mledtje

I get 33miles/1000rpm with the same engine/trans and 3.73 final drive, so you must have 4.10's.

If you like the granny low, wait until you put it in 4wd lo range/granny low - you can walk faster than that!! But, it will walk over anything at about 1mph while idling!

I think the 2500HD is 1000lbs heavier than a similar 1500. My 2500 is 900lbs heavier than my 1500. The HDs have a 600lb greater GVWR, but only a 500lb greater load capacity, or 100lbs more weight than a 2500, for a total difference of 1000lbs empty.

I've measured 10% less fuel economy with the 2500, interested in your results. Don't worry about the first tank results, I don't think the dealer filled the first tank all the way. It was much better on the 2nd tank.

Mike L

markbuck

the 2500HD's and 6.0 only come with 4.10's. You were correct.

Drove up to the ski area last night as part of breakin. Once on the snow, did put it in 4wd-Lo and was laughing outloud about how well it creeps. Three grand on the tach, and the speedo was still registering less than 5mph.

Filled up this AM, had 217 miles on the tank, took a little over 15gal for like 14mpg, really suprized how high it was. I was expecting about a 20% decrease in mpg compared to the 4.8/1500.

Sticker in glove box says only 2092 lbs for a camper. Was suprized this was only 650lbs more than the 1/2 ton....

Did I mention that I was really pleased with the new truck ;o)

Tim, back seat down, hard as a rock. Dog seems to like it along with my buddies kids. They called it a "playhouse". I don't think the kids knew that there were seats under there. They'll find out tonight as we are 'road-tripping' to Sedona.

sf0383

When folded, the rear seats in the Crew Cab are pretty firm. Not as firm as the floor but definitely firmer than the seats themselves. I also discovered these neat spring loaded folding panels that cover some of the goodies that go along with the jack which is mounted under the rear seat. Mine even came with a pair of gardening gloves to use while changing a tire. And we thought GM was cheap...lol

obyone

Can get those gloves for $1.29 at Home Depot or $2.29 at Menards.

mgdvhman

BWHAHHAAAAA

......I see we have gone thru another host as well?

whoohooo!

- Tim

obyone

We have a new host? Who dat be? He or she or ?

mgdvhman

go look at opening page to pickups...

you tell me

- Tim

mgdvhman

says it's Bob with the Nissan

.another person who has no clue I guess

- Tim

markbuck

2nd tank, more than 1/2 driving at 75mph on the interstate, including a round trip down to 3000' and back to 7,000'. Fuel econ 14.5mpg. 2500HD 4x4 CC LB 5speed stock everything else.

Now wondering if something was wrong with my 1500 4.8L 4x4 5speed regcab LB 4.10 as it mostly only got 16mpg over about 37,000 miles of use.

Much softer rear suspension than my buddy's F350SD...

I'm in Love!!!!

Headed out to hook up the Tekonsha brake controller, adjust my load distributing hitch height, mount a stainless stiffener angle iron to the front bed rail,....

tenga

I have been reading this site since Nov/2000 and taking it all in. Then a couple of days ago, I saw this new 2001 4Dr/4WD Silverado 2500HD that the fleet got in for one of our field crews. I asked the head mechanic about it. He gave it a good review, then said to take it for a spin and see how it handles. So I did. Liked what it did on the highway and up and down an old steep winding gravel road. I drove it about 10 miles
and will probably buy one.
Which brings me to a point in this discussion about the white gloves tucked back in with the tire jack. My first impression was "hey, that's cool. The more I thought about it, the more I liked the idea of GM putting a pair of gloves in the truck. In my work as a field tech, gloves are part of my safety gear. But I'm not always in my rig if I have to go for training or such. Men or women who work in the field take changing a tire in stride (we don't like, but we do it. That brings me to men and women in nice clothes on their way to a meeting, school, work, graduation, whatever. Well, most of us, who will be driving that brand new Silverado are going to be really pleased to see those new white (free) gloves, if we do get a flat.
we should be positive about about a gift-horse, no matter how small jesture.

markbuck

2500HD 6.0L 5speed Round trip number 3 - Loaded up with three guys, three dirtbikes, used the 65% rear fold down seat to store three MC gear bags. Ran 77mph from 7,000' down to 3,000' and back.
Got 13.3 mpg.

Worked great. Did have to grab a downshift to 4th for about 20 miles climbing back up to 7,000'.

Still very happy.

sf0383

for the last tank. 2500HD Crew Cab, 4x4, 6.0 auto. That was mostly short hop errand running kind of stuff.

obyone

While it's true...what you've said. I would rather GM put the $2 x 1,000,000 trucks into a little better quality control. Plus, I use AAA anyway.

mgdvhman

has been a wide range of numbers spewed for 8.1's....I'm gonna guess about 11 mpg for my style of driving........time will tell

- Tim

markbuck

I'm betting a leadfoot like you with the 8.1, 4.10, and a heavier truck; and that slushbox allison will get 10mpg on a good day ;o)

mgdvhman

but here is my theory....

I drive 48 miles round trip to work.....in 2 months we are moving work closer to home..whoohoooo!
..only gonna be 22 miles round trip..

I get 12.5 MPG now....so I can get as little as 6 MPG and spend same amount on gas per week!

hehe

.....or I don't care either way....one of the two..

- Tim

regg1

I'm about two weeks from taking delivery on 2001 2500 4X4,CC,SB. Curious about two things:
Based on your experience, what should I check out before ever leaving the lot?
What is generally accepted practice for break-in period?
Appreciate your input.

bugsplat

Thanks for all who responded on the tow hitch question. Guess it's best I get one to be safe. I've copied the rest of this message from one I posted on the stripper site since it appears to be more suited for this site.

I've read the shakerado problems and mine doesn't seem to be that. Mine's smooth as silk above about 45. Don't think it's the engine either. It only occurs below about 40 mph and only when I have just the right combination of speed and very low load (acceleration). It seems to be worse at about 35 to 40 mph which is the high range of the third gear and seems to occur only when the momentum of the truck starts to exceed the power coming from the engine like would occur when going downhill and easing off the accelerator. It's almost like the tranny gets to the point it wants to shift but is just below the speed/power threshold to shift. If I'm slowly accelerating, it may only last for about one to two seconds, if I'm holding my speed, it may last for several seconds. Never feel it when I'm accelerating moderately or going uphill. It's really not very noticeable, but hey, it is a new truck and should be smooth.

Other than the above, am real pleased with the truck. I think the performance is pretty good, but admit I'm not a performance freak. Friend of mine has a Xcab Tundra 4wd with the V-8. While mine is not as peppy as his truck, it's not that far off. Haven't done any towing yet which may be the real test. Drove about 250 miles on the interstate and had no problem cruising 75-80 with plenty of power to pass when needed.
I have been a little disappointed in the mileage, especially after reading your post. I seem to stay around 19 to 20 in combination driving (about 75% highway), but like you, drive pretty conservatively. I think the rating on the sticker was 16 to 21, so I'm not displeased from that perspective. Just wouldn't have thought there was that much difference between the standard and Xcab.

mledtje

Not everyone agrees with me on break-in, but here is my opinion:

Follow the GM reccomendations in the owner's manual for speed and load. Change the oil the first time at 600-1000 miles. After that follow the oil change indicator on the dash. Change to synthetic oil after 5-10,000 miles.

I follow the GM suggestions because I believe the factory engineers know more about the truck than I ever will. Also GM has a vested interest in making sure the truck is the most reliable vehicle it can be, and that is what they intend when they tell you how to break it in.

Mike L

mledtje

Your vibration sounds like the torque converter locking up. When under load the engine doesn't notice the extra load of the lockup.

When under no load or very light load the clutch coming home can cause the engine to change speed slightly, and the entire drivetrain can accelerate/deccelerate within the backlash of the gears and you will feel it as a vibration.

When the drivetrain is loaded the drivetrain can't vibrate within the backlash of the gears.

Mike L

hunter98

OK HERE IS THE ANSWER YOU ARE ALL LOOKING FOR
Tire Size Height/Width Program Size
215x85R16 30.38x8.46 Computer
245x75R16 30.47x9.65 Computer
265x75R16 31.65x10.43 Computer
235x85R16 31.73x9.25 265x75R16
305x70R16 32.81x12.01 245x70R19.5
285x75R16 32.83x11.22 245x70R19.5
245x70R19.5 33.00x9.65 Computer
255x85R16 33.07x10.04 245x70R19.5

I saw the 245x70R19.5 on my 1500 a couple of weeks ago, and had been wondering too. I finally did the math. The most size would be off by my above reccomendation is .19" Your tread will vary over .75" over the life of a tire. (Since you wear off the top and bottom of the tire on height.) There is also more variation than this .19 between brands of tires or with rim widths. My 1500 came from the factory with 245x75R16. When we went into reprogram for 265x75R16, the computer showed 215x85R16. So the factory had it set for an equivalent size when my size was even in there too, the standard size even. Tires can even vary a .5" in height and width amoung brands. Your better brands such as Michelin and BFG run larger than the above and cheap brands run less than the above calculations.

I hope this helps you all and makes sense, so, all the popular sizes from the 215 to 305 can be accomidated with the 245x75R16, 265x75R16 or the 245x70R19.5 program and be dead on accurate as you gm would get if they tried. Or maybee they did.

Hunter

trucks4me2

I agree with MLEDTJE. Your vibration sounds like the Torque Converter. My 2001 2500HD, 6.0, EC, 4X4, SB, 4.10, does the same thing at 45 and is worse just after the Torque Converter Locks up under light load. It gets progressively better the faster I go and is gone by 65MPH. Dealer says no fix yet. Still waiting!

Stan

tmarchbanks

My 8.1/Allison/3.73 was supposed to have the locking differential (says so on the window sticker and the codes in the glove compartment), but it does not. I found out yesterday the hard way. After investigating, it is definitely an open diff.

Anybody ever heard of this problem?

Which solution should I look for - a new chunk in the existing housing or a whole new axle assembly?

bwh

I'm sure it doesn't actually lock, not from the factory. It is a limited slip, which means it will let one wheel spin, badly in some cases. It has to do with the amount of "limit" they build in. I had this problem with my f350. One wheel on the dirt and one on the tar. It spins the heck out of the tire on the dirt. It is just a 20% LS meaning 80% can go out the wrong way. What you are experiencing may be "normal". The solution has been to go to a Detroit "tru-trac" LS diff. This one actually does what it is supposed to. Good Luck.

mledtje

What makes you believe the differential is not a locker?

The Gov-Lock that GM installs is different from any other limited slip or locker. First, it is completely open normally. You can jack up one wheel and spin it freely with the other wheel on the ground. 2nd, it takes a turn or two for the locker to engage, and then it locks the two wheels together. 3rd, it only locks up to about 20 mph, then it unlocks.

What it amounts to is:

Unlike a limited slip, one wheel has to slip before the locker can engage.

If you give it too much gas while on ice or snow, one wheel can spin fast enough to disengage the locker.

In mud, dirt or rough terrain, moderate throttle will cause the locker to engage and drive the other wheel, allowing you to drive out.

If it is listed in the glovebox, I'd bet money it is installed in your truck.

Mike L
00 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd G80 Locker

markbuck

Boy the left bank giant exhaust pipe sure blocks oil exit. It is about 2" from the drain plug, when you pull the plug, oil pretty much coats the exhaust pipe and it is a little warm working in there. Thought I was driving a diesel after the oil change for a few minutes till the oil burned off.

Oh ya, GM finally fixed the dipstick so 6.0 quarts plus a filter exactly fills the engine. Yawl that are adding over 6 quarts to your 4.8/5.3/6.0 engines are overfilling them 'cuz the dipsticks are off by a little.....

sf0383

Just took mine in for it's first oil change as well. Mechanic said the same thing. When you pull the plug oil pretty much coats the exhaust. Also took 6 quarts with the new filter.

mgdvhman

6.5 with the 2K 6.0

- Tim

whatsachevy

I just want to say thanks to all who participate here. I've picked up a lot of good information over the last several months. I have always been a Ford man. However, I just ordered my new '01 Silverado 2500 HD 4X4 SB LS 6.0 Automatic 4.10 limited slip (black of course) last weekend from a dealer in Leavenworth, Kansas for $400 over invoice. After driving both the HD Ford and the HD Chevy, I have to admit there is not much comparison between the two. Chevy beats the Ford in power, comfort and handling. Truck is supposed to be delivered within 6-8 weeks. I am so excited that I had to go to our local autoshow yesterday so I could sit in one (its been several weeks since my last test drive). I plan on adding oversized tires with custom wheels and dual exhausts. Any recommendations for maximum tire size without losing any significant power with the 6.0 automatic 4.10 setup? Also, what about exhaust systems? I'm looking for a good throaty sound (not too obnoxious) with improved power if possible. Anyone using a K&H air filter in their truck? If so, have you noticed any increase in power or mpg? Your valued feedback would be appreciated. Thanks again to all!

markbuck

Overfilling your truck is probably worse than underfilling a little bit. Your dipstick is wrong, as the dealer....

mgdvhman

....1st time I had it changed at the dealer and the invoice said 7 qts...I say what??..they said 6.5 is what GM reccomends...(even though book says 6)....and they can't charge for 1/2 qt...so 7 it is....I said gimme the 1/2 qt then!....and they did...

But it's 6.5 for me....30K and no problems...don't plan on any either.

I know to overfill is worse than under...but not a problem here.

I believe Quadrunner adds 6 5/8?....and I know he is pushing 40K on his 5.3

Good Luck on this one now!

- Tim

dilligaf4

Like so many others, I'm waiting (impatiently) for my 2500HD EC Duramax/Allison 4X4 to be built and SHIPPED/RECEIVED. I've gotten much good info from your experiences.

My question: What class is the hitch supplied with the trailering option I included? I tow a 26' boat that gross' out around 9200-9500# with gas-water-beer-toys-beer, etc. I have a tongue weight of 880# and have heard that the hitch that comes on the HD will only be capable of handling 5000#. I don't presently use any sort of weight distribution add-ons and pull it with an F-250 EC 4X4 460/5spd. The Ford doesn't squat or fight the trailer and I'm hoping that the Chevy will do much better (I pull over the Cont. Divide and run long hills - hence the Allison). Will I need to upgrade the Chevy hitch?

Thanks in advance.

Dave

jlflemmons

The truck will come with a Class IV hitch. If you are pulling over 9000# without weight distribution bars and even a sway control you are SERIOUSLY overloading the hitch mount and rear suspension of your truck. A class IV hitch is only rated for 5000# without distribution bars, and I urge you to upgrade your towing equipment before you have a hitch failure and damage that pretty boat. BTW, this is not an issue of Ford, Chevy, or whatever brand, but of the hitch rating itself. I can hook up to my 30' travel trailer and get less than one inch of squat with my 2K 2500 with the heavy duty suspension, but the strain of such a setup will not do the truck or the hitch any good. Please, for safety's sake, double check your tow weight and hitch set-up.

Jim

dilligaf4

Jim:
Thanks for the input. I don't want to sound pompous, but, if I've been hauling this boat around for 5 years and have taken the steps to prevent (and overcome) the "tail-wagging-the-dog" syndrome with no difficulty, why won't this heavier duty setup handle it? I'm sincerely interested in your thoughts. I pride myself on my towing ability and feel I've been O.K. so far. I replaced the surge brakes with electric brakes on the boat trailer to prevent the surge brakes from setting up while descending long grades (Eisenhower Tunnel west approach - 7% for 10 miles)and added an auxiliary 2-speed to the Ford transmission to provide additional pulling power and braking power, depending on the need at the time. Is the rear suspension of the Chevy that much weaker than other makes, or, am I missing the point? I feel I am able to keep the trailer behind me and have not had an instance where it has been trying to push me down a hill in a manner where it was beyond control.

I chose this truck because it seemed like it would be able to better pull this boat. I chose it in white because it would color match a new boat (that might be a bit bigger), no matter what the brand. (They say that using the 7 "P's" will always overcome her objections: Proper Prior Planning Prevents Pi** Poor Performance.) I thought I had already settled the issue of going DOWN the hills, now I was settling the issue of going UP.

While I'm in the "humble" status, I also found out that I need to replace the pop-up camper I've had for some 15 years as the bed on this truck (as well as all the other current offerings, I might add) is narrower, but only at the back. The camper dealer says I need to add an air bag setup to the rear to handle the higher camper weight. He said that the Chevrolet rides softer and will need the bags. (He also said that ANY of the newer trucks would.) The camper weighs about 1800#. It would be unusual, but not ruled out, to haul the camper and the boat at the same time.

I appreciate your input.....

Dave

mactheknife1

I had used this on my '97 Merc Mountaineer cause the oil get on the cross-member. Anyway, I wrap a sheet of aluminum foil on the parts in the path of the oil flow. Try to form it with a low spot at the bottom so most of the oil will run down to that spot instead of over a wide area. Then toss the foil when you're done.

sf0383

I can't speak to the tires as I am still running the stock 245's. As far as the exhaust, I added duals to mine ( 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4, 6.0) I started out with the Flowmaster 40s because that was all the shop had in stock. I took it to a different shop 2 hours later and had them cut off and replaced with "less aggressive" mufflers. The 40s were just way, way, way to loud for my personal preference and I am much happier with the newer ones. It was a Midas shop that did the replacenments and he called it a "turbo" muffler. I'm not knocking the Flowmasters, they were just too loud for me. Their 70 series may be what I needed but they weren't available and I was in a hurry. So I chalk it up as a $100 lesson learned the hard way.

sf0383

Has anyone noticed a slight "clunk" when you first start up the truck and put it in reverse and start to back up. My driveway is sloped and I've noticed a slight "clunk" when I back down it it the mornings.

tmarchbanks

One of the reasons I bought the HD was that the factory trailering package is rated for 1,000 pounds of tongue weight without weight distributing equipment. I have a 7,000# gross boat and trailer that I tow. I have had from 350 to 800 pounds of tongue weight depending on how I adjusted the boat. I am currently pulling with 425# of tongue weight and it tows perfectly. No sway ever on the truck, and only the slightest sway on the trailer when crossing with a semi on a two lane road.

As far as mpg, I am typically getting 12-12.5 mixed city/highway with no load, 7.5 towing. I really need a larger fuel tank while towing.

On another topic, I appreciate the responses on the G80 Locker question. I was wrong - I do really have the locker, and it does work - but I don't like it. It tends to take divots out of the yard until it kicks in, and then I get two short trenches until the truck starts to move.

Tim Marchbanks
8.1/Allison/3.73/Ext with 2600 miles so far

jlflemmons

But I would not even consider towing 9K+ of travel trailer without a sway control and distribution bars. The bars shift some of the weight forward from the rear of the frame. Think handles on a wheel barrow and you get the idea. The data I have on my truck said towing to 9200lbs with the weight distribution hitch. The hitch is rated for 5000lbs without the distribution bars and 10K with. Maybe your trucks are different.

tmarchbanks

The following may be off topic - but I do tow with a 2500HD so here goes.

Based on doing a lot of research and a good bit of real world experience, towing a boat and a camper trailer are VERY different things.

The boat trailer usually has the axles relatively further back since most of the weight of a boat is on the transom. Longer wheelbase = less sway. Boat can usually be adjusted fore/aft on trailer to fine tune handling. Aerodynamics on a boat are much better (forces on a camper are at the very front which is the worst case for sway).

So, boats trailer much better than campers of the same weight/length.

That being said, the biggest improvement on sway control (at least on boats) is proper inflation of the trailer tires. This can make a huge difference in swaying. Also, bias ply trailer tires sway less than radial tires due to the stiffer side wall on the bias tires.

sf0383

If someone will enlighten me as to how to post pictures I will try to get some up of my "mid-life mobile". 2500HD Crew Cab, 4x4, LS, Indigo blue with "ugly black flares", Westin Nerfs and Putco Bed rails. I might even try to wash it before taking the pics.