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Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII



  • rwagonerrwagoner Posts: 338
    >My issue was that somebody posts about a problem they are having and some of the people on here abruptly told them to go elsewhere. Enough of that crap. <

    The only posts I read stating that were ones from Edmunds recommending that people might get a better response in the "problem" topic. Maybe I just missed them.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I had responded to your post #279. I had stated several reasons for the ill mannered mood. And wouldn't you know that someone has to go and delete it. Will post the rest at Tim's site. You do remember the address?


    always glad to be of help. Question. Who did you work with at GM when going through the buyback? GM zone rep? customer care rep? Funny thing, my state's lemon law says out of commission for thirty business service call lasted 50 days. I almost forgot what the truck looked like. What's good is that one service call burned over thirty days in itself...not to mention the 10 other times it's been in the shop
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    Lund Grille Screen - all black - looks good and keeps the bugs out of the radiator core.

    WeatherFlectors - went in easy, a little pricey at $53 but seem to be worth it.

    Ventshade step shields - $14 well spent - they leave a vertical gap between the stock gray step and the new stepshield - but not noticeable if you look straight down at it. Already had some nicks in the paint so I decided to cover that step in area.

    Belin hinged tonneau on the way.
  • No reason to waste anymore time on this but just to let some of you know some of the posts are being deleted.


    Just curious, why do you want an engine block heater. Does it get cold enough in Oklahoma to need one?
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    and "Berlin" hinged tonneau cover.
    Also, someone had a question about shocks - I would go with velvet ride shackles to improve ride - Edelbrock IAS improve handling more than ride - would you agree Oby?
    This is the first successful attempt at posting on the new site - I keep being told to login - yada, yada, yada.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Boy was it slick this morning. Lots of snow on the ground and ice underneath. I turned a corner and noticed an F150 2wd shoot out of a gas station he almost did a 360 i was like what an idiot. Well as i turned and got down where he almost spun around guess what happened to me i went flying. Sideways for about a block. First time i went sliding in this truck. Had 4 wheel hi on also. I had good control i wasnt all over the place truck stayed on my side of the street (if i had my old S-10 i would have been on the other side). The rest of the way to work was a nice 20 mph drive.

    Door was squeaking one 1 occasion again today.

  • k0hbk0hb Posts: 89
    Up here in MN we plug them in on Halloween and unplug them on opening of Walleye season.

  • smikessmikes Posts: 130
    I grew up in N. Dakota and when I tell some of my fellow Seattleites some people have to plug their vehicles in just to get them to start in the winter... They look at me with that "Should you be out without a helmet on" look... ;o)

  • xringxring Posts: 129
    Yes, ocassionally it does get down to 0 to 10 degrees. Also, I think that it would be nice to put it on a timer on the colder mornings to get the engine warmed up a little faster to make the drive to work more comfortable quicker. Anything to make the oil flow a little more easy when the temps get below 15 or 20 would seem to me to be good for prolonged engine life (I tend to pamper my vehicles). I've never had an engine heater so that's why I'm asking. Looks like there is a brass screw in plug on the rear of the left side of the block. Clearance is somewhat limited but workable. So I'm considering doing the installation myself if I get positive feedback from you guys.

  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    My old F350 Diesel was closer to a kilowatt of power, costs like $0.13 per hour. OK to plug em in as long as you want. But if plugged in overnight, might cost more than a buck depending on watts and your local KO*Jr rate. I have a heavy duty timer, good to 1500w, bought at mart.

    Installing a block heater is like anything else, depends on the mechanic. Pulling the old core plug is often the biggest job.... drilling a hole in the old one, screwing in a bolt, and using a slide hammer is the optimum if you have room.

    My 2001HD is gonna have one, my current '99 doesn't as the York placing the order back then left it off.
  • As a fellow Okie I just never thought of an engine block heater on a gas engine, but if its not too expensive I guess it can't hurt. Let me know what it takes I might do the same.

    We have to keep our tractors (diesel engines) plugged in or they won't start.

    Ryan-I know its been awhile since we discussed but I got a quote on the Line-X for $300, what do you think of this price?

    When cleaning my truck up the other day I noticed that the graphite interior collects alot of lint. Anybody have a good way of cleaning the interior?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Go for it man. $300 isnt bad. My rhino liner was $399 - a $25 coupon off i had (wasnt even for that particular place but they accepted it)

    Around here the linex place wants $374 under the rail short bed.

    Are you going under the rail i hope?

  • xringxring Posts: 129
    What's wrong with the OTR line-x? Just asking.

  • xringxring Posts: 129
    Everytime I make a posting and the screen comes back and then I try to do a refresh it asks "do you want to repost". What am I doing wrong here? I have to scroll up 20 responses then back to the end of topic then do a refresh and see if any new posts have been added. Gotta be a better way. It does it at work with IE and at home with Netscape so I don't think it is the browser.


  • mpalombompalombo Posts: 186
    Last time I was here, somebody was talking about getting new tires, BFG 285's. Was it Ryan, or Dean? Whatever... Does anybody know if they got them? I am interested because I was going to get the same ones but I've heard conflicting reports as to weather they would rub.

    Also... Check out my site. I have a message board and pics. Still needs some work, but its mostly done.

  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    To post a message click the "post message" button bellow thw message box.
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    That is all you should have to do then when you want to refresh click on "pickups" and it will bring you back to the topic list. Hope this helps you out.
  • xringxring Posts: 129
    That's what I do. But after I post and I want to see the new postings that others have made subsequent to my posting I do a refresh and get the "repost from data" message. If I say yes - get a double posting - if I say no, nothing happens. Any ideas?

  • smikessmikes Posts: 130
    JMIN - I had my UTR Line-x done the day after Thanksgiving. I got the Chev dealer inside deal - $280. After tax - $304. Had I scheduled it on my own, the best I could have done was $350 (auto show coupon). These are Seattle prices...

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    The BFGS 285's are me. I am contemplating now as whether to get em or not. Itll be second wk in january when i get em. I am currently talking to bfg and the tire place. Ill get back to you as soon as i find out any info or otherwise.

    JM under the rail for one simple reason. If you need body work done like i did when i got a scratch and dent (in case you wanna know ask ill tell you the story in case you dont already know) the whole side not just the small part will need to be repainted. This means taking everything off. For mine they took off the fender flares, side molding, tire, bumper, mudflap, Z71 sticker, and my bedrail caps damn they dismantled my truck. To remove all tjis it cost $$$. To remove and reinstall the rail caps it cost $9-$10. The bodyshop manager told me luckily i didnt have an over the rail because it would have added about $150-$200 to the cost of repair for removal and reapplication. To get the scratch and dent fixed it cost $800 ($250 for me cause insurance picked up the rest). Rail caps are easy to remove and install (dealership couldnt reinstall right so i have to fix it this spring).

    If you have any more questions abotu a liner let me know

    BFFFFFFFFFFFFF its flippin cold out. Just took a walk through the plant and froze my bum off.

  • The only argument I remember was that OTR wasn't good if you were ever in a wreck and had to have a side panel replaced. The Line-X guy told me that OTR was better and that he could fix tears if a wreck ever occurred, but this doesn't happen often.

    I am still looking into the fiberglass toppers for my bed so I haven't exactly made my mind up. In addition, the Line-X told me that the OTR would not inhibit the topper. Thoughts?
  • smikessmikes Posts: 130
    JMIN - In the end, which do you prefer the look of? I don't care for the look of OTR, so I went UTR.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Also my cousin had a linex on a sonoma. He worked in the construction field for a bit and the OTR on the passnger side by the tail light started to peel up. Looked very bad. He could get it fixed but why they said it wouldnt do that.

    Bedrail caps are my choice

  • It makes sense all around. Any ideas if the bedrail caps will get in the way of a fiberglass topper?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Have a friend whos dad has a fiberglass lid with bedrail caps. DOnt know the brand though i doubt mine would work. Talk to the place your getting the lid at.

  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    $280 is a great price for the Line-x UTR.
    I got a quote from my Chevrolet dealer, they said $495 for OTR.
    Then called Line-x dealer they said $425 for UTR, and $520 for OTR.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    All over indiana and illinois close to me (within 100 mls) all the dealers were the same

    LineX $374 UTR
    Rhino $399 UTR

  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    And a Happy New Year!

    I'll be gone to Death Valley and returning the 2nd of Jan. Wonder how many posts will be here by then?

    Everyone have a safe and prosperous New Year.

    Mike L
  • smikessmikes Posts: 130
    David - It might not be convenient for you, but all I had to do was call a certain guy at the Kent Line-X and tell him I bought my Silv. from John Dupre at Good Chev(Renton). He quoted me $280 for the UTR. The OTR was $20-40 more, I think. You could try the same thing, just take off your dealer advertising of your truck before you visit. I can look for the Line-X guy's name when I get home tonight, if you're interested.
  • smikessmikes Posts: 130
    Just curious, with the new format, are you able to do the HTML stuff you were doing before?
This discussion has been closed.