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Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    It will amplify the sounds. As far as for your Silverado, specifically, it will increase the sound output. Hmmm....does that make sense?
  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Posts: 125
    Could someone tell me what the Mobil Oil Filter number is for use on a 8.1 liter, 2001 engine? The manual calls for a PF454 AC DELCO FILTER.
  • bcobco Posts: 756
    crossover network. i'm no radio expert, but i'll give you my definition in layman's terms, as i understand it. crossover networks are like equalizers in that they allow you to send different ranges of your music to the speakers most capable of handling those ranges. for example, i have a bazooka 6" bass tube. obviously, i want that to handle as much of the bass in my music as possible - it's most capable of doing so. now, since i have that, i don't necessarily want bass going to the four 2-way speakers that i have (2 - 6.5" in the front and 2 - 4"x6" in the rear). these four are much more capable of handling my mid- and high-range sounds - and i want them to. hopefully, a crossover network will allow me to focus those ranges to those speakers...and not cost a lot to boot! we'll see.

  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    All this sound system talk is making my head hurt. In my area, the only sound experts are young punks trying to impress girls with their dressed out Ford Escorts. ;) Sorry, just bored today I guess.

    On a more serious subject. I asked on the Transsport page, but people there only argue about interior colors. How do I know if the shocks and/or struts have outlived their life (for any vehicle)? At what kind of mileage do they normally need to be replaced?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Ever seen those Midas commercials with the bouncing cars...that's a hint that you're shocks are going. I would think that if you're asking on when should shocks be replaced on GM vehicles, I would say as soon as you bought them, unless they are on the high end...the exception being, vettes, camaro ss, caddy....I guess anything costing less than $40k with the camaro ss being the exception.

    As we get older, we lose our sense of hearing, therefore, the music needs to be played louder...also helps in tuning out the spouse...
  • sf0383sf0383 Posts: 204
    is what I need. Thanks for the info. As I mentioned before I have the crew cab and I was kind of surprised/disappointed with the rear speakers. Plain 6" in the rear doors where there is room for a lot more.I replaced those with some 6" 2-ways. The fronts have the 6" in the door panels with the seperate little tweeters mounted above them. If I add some kind of equalizer or crossover amp or whatever will I need to add a woofer of some sort to take some of the burden off of the other speakers or does it matter? The stock front speakers seem to be pretty good. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether they should stay or go?
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    you want the best answers for the type of questions you're asking? try going to and click on forums, then look up either Richard Clarke or David Navone. they will correspond with ya via email if you like, and believe me when i tell ya these guys are probably gonna give you more than you need in setting up your trucks sound system.
    also check out and go to forums, there you will find a wealth of info that i highly doubt you'll find here, not because nobody here is an expert, but because on those forums you will find people that have done it all and seen it all.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    MR HOST MAN Red and Obyone are picking on me. Can you please warn them?

  • mpalombompalombo Posts: 186
    The piece of plastic that is on the top is making a rattling sound in my truck. If I place my hand on top of it the noise goes away. I want to remove it and put some tape or padding or something in there to stop it. Does anybody know how to remove that piece? It is the part that forms a kind of useless shelf right under the power outlets and the ashtray. I think the same piece might be the front part too that surrounds the opening and the CD holder. I can't seem to picture it right now.

    Thanks for any info,
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    To get to that "shelf" you have to first remove the two front seats, then the center console. That will leave the section you're describing exposed. Each seat has two nuts and two bolts, inside the center console under the padding is four bolts, remove them and the console can be removed. You have to seperate the a/c ducting for the rear of the cab by working the console left to right a little.

    Second thought, you might be able to take it off by removing the four bolts under the padding. Not sure cause when I dynamat'd the truck, I took the seats out first then the console.
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    Great pics on the nerf bar installation. After looking at them, I had a quick meeting with my knuckles and they all voted in favor of letting someone else install them for me.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    haha MICH

    you shouldnt have told these guys that

    They rip on me all the time cause i had them installed on my truck even before i purchased it.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Ok i am thinking of changing my front and rear differential fluids. Truck has 13,000 miles and tomorrow will mark the 1 yr anniversary it rolled off the assembly line.
    Is it easy? Anything i should know? Anyone who has a helms manual does it have any info in there? If so could you scan it for me?

    Oh yea which fluids and how much do i need and what kinda price am i looking at?


    2000 Silverado Ext cab Z71 5.3 3.73 indigo blue LT285's
    Accessories: Go rhino grill guard, rhino bedliner, westin nerf bars, go rhino tail light guards, husky mudflaps, husky floor liners, lund interceptor, and vent visors

    See pics at
  • bcobco Posts: 756
    your knuckles told you right! don't listen to ryan...he's a little delirious at times. LOL! j/k ryan. it all depends on how much you're being charged for the install. anything more than $40 and i'd do it myself. couple beers, couple hours...done.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Would you like to answer my question over on the tundra topic?

    Or are you ignoring me?

  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    No sweat, buddy! Hey, I'll say it again. I'm having my nerf bars installed, AFTER I buy the rig. HAHA! I spent my tool time working on the house. By the way, my truck should come off the line tomorrow.

    Anyway, the cab bolts...I see they go up, but where's the nut/threads they tie in to? Curiosity...I don't intend to find out myself!
  • bcobco Posts: 756
    i swapped my rear diff at ~9k i think. used m1 75w90 synthetic. ~$13-$15/qt. took 2.3 qts. remember though...mine's not a locker or lsd. front axle...i forget off hand how often you're to swap it. i wanna say 50k??? not sure though. supposed to check every 10k i'm pretty sure.

  • bcobco Posts: 756
    oh they're up there...nudge nudge, wink wink. ;)

    seriously, when i inserted the new ones, they caught very easily. i suspect they're attached to the frame on the top side...

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    I used the same ones?.....or maybe I didn't ?...too long ago...they grabbed very easy..and I also found out you can drive quite a distance without tightening them back up!


    finger tightened one side.....drove away late to bar parking lot....and realized we didn't tighten them back the tools out in the lot and did it right there.

    even before starting job....they were all various lbs of torque...from very tight to almost hand loose...

    I don't believe they are the only bolts to hold the cab on though...

    - Tim
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    Information for anyone that cares. I measured the backspacing on my 2500 original factory, 6.5" wide, forged aluminum wheels: it's 5" exactly. I was surprised it was that large because most aftermarket wheels are in the 3+" range. Now I know why my new wheels/tires stick out a little.
  • mtrammellmtrammell Posts: 125
    You're right, that is quite a bit more than normal. I wonder how that is going to affect the wheel bearings in the long run.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Affect? At best some steering wheel kick-back, especially in truck ruts. More probably, that plus some relatively expensive bearing/cv joint wear that won't become apparent until after (hopefully for you) you sell the truck.
    -- Don
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    I don't have my 1500 yet, although it's now "in transit". Anybody know what the backspacing is for the PF9 wheels (16" cast aluminum)?

    Once I get my truck, I'm going to go see what the Chevy owners hangout is like. ;-)
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    you arent missing much

    damn its been one yr today since my truck arrived on the dealers lot.

    wow that yr went fast

    hmmm time to trade it in? NAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!
  • Happy anniversary!

    The sixteenth is my one year anniversary and Yes the year did go fast!

    Trade in? Hell Ya. You need a 2500! ;-}
  • silvsilv Posts: 41
    I've been seeing this new model thrown around and I was wondering what it is. I checked the Chevy website and there was no mention of it. Is it like a heavy duty version of the under 8,600 GVWR line of pickups?

    Anyone have a link to any pictures or info?

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    new Silverado......Crew cab....NON-HD style front end though.

    8600 GVW like a 2500 ...but in a crew being a has a lot more weight..but the same GVW as say an will haul less in bed...'s a way to sell crew cabs to people that have to have a 1500!

    ...I think it has 1500 wheels instead of 2500 wheels...and may not be as beefy as a 8600 GVW 2500 or a 9200 GVW 2500HD

    Good luck!

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I could have sworn 8600 GVW was 8600 GVW no matter how you looked at it.
  • vince4vince4 Posts: 1,272
    It depends which brakes and transmission it has. Sometimes GM will stretch things a bit.
  • eric2001eric2001 Posts: 482
    is not an advertising ploy folks. GM named it such so that you could have all the hauling capacity as a regular cab, but with the extra capability needed for 3 more adults in the vehicle. The larger frame, suspension, motor & tranny are necessary to allow for 6 adults and over a half ton of haul capacity left in the bed.

    Put 6 adults in a SCrew by Ford and you only have a few hundred pounds capacity in the bed.

    Which would you rather have?
This discussion has been closed.