Chevy Silverado Problems

hogboy

I have a 2000 Silverado 4x4, Z-71 with approx 18k. While on a trip this past week I started to notice a metallic slapping or clunking noise when going over bumpy roads. Is this the coil spring damper problem I saw on a TSB? I believe the sound is possibly coming from both the front & back end but not positive. Also appears the back sliding window has developed a crack around the outside moulding & GM will replace with a aftermarket window. Thanks in advance for responses.

ldeem

my 2000 silverado with manual transmission exhibits two irritating problems my dealer hasn't been able to fix, so any help would be appreciated. The major problem is the engine will not return to idle promptly when the accelerator is released resulting in the necessity of disengaging the clutch or braking against the engine. The engine wants to continue to run on at about 1500 to 1800 rpm, it eventually shuts down, but there's no engine braking in city driving. Also the engine stumbles under moderate acceleration, this is also more noticeable with ambient temperatures above 80 deg F.(the throttle body was replaced, no help)

rayt2

Get it back to the dealer and have them FIX IT ! High idle is a driveability/safety issue and let them know that! There is obviously something wrong with the idle sensor or worse yet the computer.

Ray T.

mpalombo

It is probably the leaf springs. There is a rubber boot that goes on the ends of them to stop the noise. I had them installed about a month ago and my noise went away. It made me appreciate the truck more going over bumps, no squeeks or rattles anymore. BTW, it should be covered under warranty, mine was.

Mark

abc246

I am not sure there is a problem with the idle. Manufactures do this to reduce the emissions. If the throttle is closed fast (during a manual trans shift) the engine runs rich for a split second. This first time I had this condition (in a 1990 Toyota 4 cyl 5 speed 4x4 pickup) I removed the dashpot. The dashpot is a time delay plunger device on the throttle body. I am not sure they still use them. I hated driving the truck before I removed this device.

I notice that both my V-6s (99 Blazer and 2k Silverado) with automatic trans sort of do the same thing, but it is not that bad with auto.

Both V-6s have no problem in high heat. Just drove Silverado 550 miles in 102 degree heat towing 5000 lbs with A/C on full blast from stop and go city traffic to the mountains. Truck ran and started fine. Was suprised that engine temperature never moved, even under 4 mile wide open throttle hill climbs in second at 65 mph!

I would guess you have a dirty fuel injector. Were the injectors replaced too?

viper33

I purchased a 1998 Silverado used through a Chevy dealer with 19000 miles. It now has 68,000. The rear end has always had some noise. I thought it was normal because of the 4WD. The noise appeared to be getting worse. I took it into the dealer. I am told the entire rear end needs replacing. The dealer said the original noise I heard may have been something else like the tires, fuel pump etc. I was also told if the rear end was bad when I purchased the truck it wouldn't have gone 50,000 miles. Is there a problem with the rear ends? and, could it have gone 50,000 mile without serious problems. I might add the dealer said it doesn't appear that the rear end has been repaired. So it came from the factory this way. The repairs will cost between $1300 and $2100.

jlflemmons

I had that done on my '96 and 20k later the whole diff went out. The pinion gear was overtightened when the seal was replaced.

Jim

hunter48

My sons 99 rdo, just got a new rear end in his truck it started howling real bad the dealer replaced under warranty he had only 23,000 miles on the truck, they said the pinion gear was overtightened when it was assembled at the factory he got lucky if I were you I would try and make them pay.

minikin

If I had to guess, I'd say it's probably one of them there things that wasn't quite right in the head to begin with and just wore out early. At 68K miles it's gonna be your problem, not GM's But I think I'd look around a bit before I gave them that kind of money to fix it. Seems like you could damn near get a Currie 9" for the high end of that price range.
-- Don

jaguar0027

Has anyone ever had any intermittent problems with there AC? Like sometimes it works but when you are driving for say 2hrs, the fan seems to slow up and then blow hot air. Also sometimes it makes a noise (louder than normal) from under the hood?

gator36

Is the noise from under the hood the fan?
The fan clutch kicks in and can make alot of noise
kind of like a little tornado under the hood...

jaguar0027

I think it is.. but my main complaint is its lack of working. Is there a TSB for this?

gator36

I have not seen any TSB's on the A/C
I have seen an issue with my A/C
It doesn't seem like it is a problem.
I have a 2001 1500 Ext Cab Z71.
And if you are running the a/c in recirc.
It will still run if you turn off the a/c switch.
This is normal. (new compressor design)
But if you leave the setting as they are and
shut the ignition off, come back and start the truck
again. (remember climate controls are still in the
same position) You would expect the A/C clutch to
be engaged and refigerated air to come out. Right?
Nope... Doesn't work that way. The Southern
California GM field engineer is looking into this
right now. I have verified this operation on 5
new 2001's and 3 2001's already in service.
(note: if you select fresh then recirc after the
re-start. The A/C cluct engages and cold air
resumes)
Could you be experiencing the same thing?

gator36

Just remembered something...

Is it humid when this happens?

If so, you could be freezing your A/C core...

Been there done that!

In high humidity the A/C core is cold enough to
freeze the moisture in the air as it collects
on the A/C core. As this builds it restricts the
amount of air that can pass through the core and
consequently be cooled. With this frozen
restriction very little air is being cooled and
the air flow is restricted...
Next time this happens try to stop the vehicle
and come back in 10 to 15 minutes. You will
probably see a large puddle of water under the
firewall in front of the passenger side on the ground.
This happened on our way to Vegas. We stopped for
lunch (114 degrees) and when I came out I saw a
stream of water coming out of the A/C drain tube.

Hope this helps...

jaguar0027

I think you may have something there. It does seem to happen when its hot and humid. Not 114 degrees, but I have had it happen at about 80 degrees (lowest temp Ive noticed) but VERY humid.

Also... have you ever turned on your AC (when its pretty hot out) and after say 5-10 minutes, it seems to kick into hyper mode where the fan blows extremly strong and its gets super cold for a little while? Its kinda cool when it happens but do you think its normal?

Thanks man!

abc246

The reason GM turns on the A/C in recir mode is to prevent a fog up condition. It has nothing to do with comp design. Just another case where GM thinks we are too dump to operate the A/C. It has other quirks too, if you turn mode to dash/def the A/C comp runs unless you stop at one notch before the setting.

Has anyone noticed that just on notch from cold the heat is too much on a cool day?

tramper

Had simular problem with an '89 2500. I replaced the compressor cycleing relay, that solved the problem. It costs around $15 [for the '89] The one on my '01 2500 looks almost identicle. It's located under the hood on the pas. side. It screws into that cylinder shaped gizmo next to the fire wall. No need to evacuate the system, just unplug the wire conn. and unscrew it. Hope this solves your problem
tramper

butchk

Hi ,New to this board.
I was wondering how hard of a job it is to replace the window regulator in my 1999 Silverado
Ext. Cab. The drivers side went a couple of months ago but the truck was still under warranty.
I had been hearing a rattle recently on the passenger side when I went over bumps etc.I took
the door panel off and the only thing I found was a couple of loose bolts which I tightened.I
don't know if this is a coincidence but the window seemed to get gradually slower after I tightened those two bolts.Any ideas would be appreciated.
ButchK

gator36

Look at the 97 and 98's they are not configured to work the same way.

Additionally with your previous post...

Wouldn't the A/C compressor work EVERY time you
have the recirc button pressed?

Not so in the 2001's...

Leave the A/C button off..
Full cold setting...
Vent turned all the way to the left...
recirc ON..

Shut the truck off.. Wait 1 minute..
Start it back up...
The compressor is not engaged....
Does not engage...
The computer does not request it...
All of this has been verified by the
local GM field engineer...

He has also verified that the compressor is of a
new deisgn within the last couple of years..
I think it was 99 when they started.
The compressor is of a variable output pressure deign. Where they can reduce the load on the
engine when high refigeration is not required, thereby increasing efficiency.
Also there is an apparent longevity issue
with the A/C clutch cycling in and out.

This is just what I havce learned...

abc246

I am not sure of your point. I did not say the comp was not a new design. However, the type of A/C compressor has nothing to do with how the controls operate in various modes. The new design compressor is variable displacement. They have used it for years in small cars and I don't know if they use it on the Silverado.

I did not say the recirc mode ran the compressor everytime it was pushed. All I tried to do was explain why they would turn on the compressor in recir mode.

ricsch

just curious as to what people are doing with their trucks that display the problem of 65-70mph vibrations in the steering. Are you pursuing the problem, traded or sold the truck?

obyone

These trucks don't vibrate, bounce maybe, but no vibration. After 27,000 miles mine's returned but at 97 instead of 55-65 so I kinda live with it.

ryanbab

you need a Z71

At 95+ my truck is smooth as silk

obyone

and the weight of all those vinyl stickers, the Z71 takes waaaaay to long to reach 95.

ricsch

so you mean to say there weren't any vibe or shaking front end problems? Don't tell GM, they'll give me my '00 Shaker back.

obyone

Can you imagine all the vibrators out there with unaware owners who've been told that it falls within normal tolerances. My dealer has performed one rack and pinion change and that's on my truck. Could it possibly be that I had the only shaker? And the TSB was designed for a select few? Makes you wonder doesn't it?

ricsch

maybe the owners of these trucks are used to a little shaking(if they own a Harley Davidson-unless it's a late model Softail) Seriously, your correct in your previous statement on how the dealers tell how it's within tolerances. Another question for anyone is behind the interior door panels, has anyone had the problem of a black plastic piece work itself down over a period of timebelow the bottom edge of the door panel? Seems that each week when I wash the truck and wipe off the area below the door panel, this plastic thing has slid down. I also may have mentioned this before, but next time your drying off your truck after a wash, with the doors open, roll back the weatherstrip along the top of the door openings and you'll be suprised how much dirt gets in this area.

punjab

I've had a problem with my 01' "bouncing" ever since I got it (it is a ex cab Z71). The only problem is that I only notice it on a few 5 mile stretches of concrete highway on US 69/75 through Oklahoma. I told my dealer, but of course he can't duplicate it unless he drives to OK (200 miles away). I know it's the truck, because my '99 z71 never did this. It seems that my only option is to stop at a dealership somewhere along the highway and have them look at it, but since I only ever travel this highway late at night or on Sundays, thats not really practical either.

When this thing starts bouncing, it's enough to make my chest sore and my voice "warble" as if someone is hitting me on the back. Seems if I let it fall below 50, it goes away (or the frequency becomes tolerable). If I speed to 90+, it increases the frequency, which makes it more tolerable, but then I am going 90 in a truck that is bouncing up and down...not the safest option.

BTW, I have changed tires and had an alignment in the course of all this, and it seems to make no difference.

txyank1

did it at 65 but the '01 is at 70 and much worse. And just on certain stretches of highway. I've also noticed it to a lesser extent even at different speeds in different locations. Hardly there at all at 75 in the same place. I have not had it to a Dealer yet, but where it's worse is within about a mile and it's the highway that runs right in front of the place.

jlflemmons

That the distance between the expansion strips combined with the wheelbase of the truck along with spring rates, weight distribution, etc will cause a repetative bounce to occur. On my '95 Safari, which has never had such a problem, we found that on the interstate going into Arkansas from Texas the expansion strips bounced the van to the point that I thought I was loosing a tread on a tire. That is the only place that van has ever done that. I had a Cutlass Ciera that would vibrate badly on the first 10 miles of I35 going north out of Round Rock Texas. After that, it was smooth as glass. And just the north bound lanes, not the south bound. So, if the problem is only on one particular section of roadway, you may have no solution other than to avoid that road.

Jim

txyank1

an X-cab? Drive Southbound on 183 in the inside lane about in front of Maxwell Nissan where that slight upgrade is. At 70 mph mine bounces like you wouldn't believe. Hardly noticeable in the middle lane though. It does it other places but that's the wost I've found. Unfortunately I drive that every day.

punjab

I understand that under certain circumstances, certain roads and speeds can cause this type of resonance in a vehicle, but usually these are very narrow parameters that will allow this. I had 96 F-150 that would do this on a stretch of K-10 between Lawrence and Overland Park KS, but only when I had 1/4 tank of gas and was going 65-70. Any faster/slower/heavier/lighter and the truck wouldn't resonate (sand bags in the bed during the winter would usually fix this). I drove this 1-2 times a week and new exactly when I would have this problem.

In the Chevy, though, it seems that the variables are much less scientific, as weight and speed seem to have no effect. I can buy the theory that the distance of the construction joints of the highway and the spring rates may be affecting only my truck, but that would lead me to believe that a part of the suspension is not operating as designed...(or else everybody that drives that stretch of road would be complaining). Oby eluded to the fact that they replaced his steering for a problem similiar to this and that fixed it. Anyone else?...

jlflemmons

towing a travel trailer the suspension will go into a slow (1Hz) oscillation that would absolutely make people prone to motion sickness hurl. I have never been especially bothered by this, but the one time I rode on I35 in a 'Burb pulling a 25' travel trailer I thought I was going to die. The owner said it always did that.

My GMC is an 2k 2500 EC with the towing package. I have driven the stretch of 183 you mentioned, but that whole stretch seems rough to me.

Jim

obyone

opportunity to drive an xcab 2001 F150, Ram 1500, and Dodge Dakota. The only one that didn't bounce was the Dakota. Both the F150 and the Ram bounced on the section of highway that my Chevy did. Course the Chevy being the leader in its class bounced the most followed by the Ford then the Dodge. This is one time that I'd have to agree that they all do that. Was really impressed with the Dakota...too bad it wasn't full sized.

BTW, my 2000 Denali doesn't bounce on this section of freeway either.

ryanbab

http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/bulletins/99-04-21-004A.html

powerman4

i have a 99 silverado x-cab 4x4 and i have 33000 miles on it. i was woundering how you get info on tsb's. is there a web site i can go to see if there is any for my vin number. about a year ago i knew of gm's site, but don't know the site address. if anybody has any info it would be greatly appreciated. thanks

ryanbab

http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/1999/bulletins.html

nakedwoman2

I have been monitoring these pickup sites and am wondering if the 2002 silverado is reliable.
My concern is with the shakes , frame integrity, engine and drive train. Looking at a 1500 SB, 2 wd, 4.8 auto,. I am comparing this to my Ford 1978, 300 cu. in. stick with 310,000 miles. So
far more reliable than my dogs and wife but really starting to rust here in the salt belt .I would appreciate honest opinions not bashing .Not looking at Fords, dont like the looks and doubt if I would get one as good as I have. I usually keep my vechicles at least 14 years. Thanks

rsss

Chevy doesn't want to help. I would like the name and address of the CEO AND CHAIRMAN OF GENERAL MOTORS. My silverado has been in for the shifting thing so many times that I quit counting after 14. This hard shift has activated an old back injury, put me back in a back brace and constant pain. Mr. Wagoner's ofc said tough ----. In the last 33 yrs we have had
over 20 brand new GM vehicles plus collector cars plus my parents were GM and this CUSTOMER LOYALTY MEANS NOTHING TO CHEVY. I think this is awful, they gave me an extended warranty which I took in case parts fall out, but does not help this shifting problem that they say they can't fix or my chronic back pain. IT'S FUNNY, THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN WITH EITHER ONE OF MY Tahoes. Do they take all our money and don't just don't care or is it because I am a female?

obyone

You could take your truck to another dealer cause it seems that your PCM needs to be programmed with new software.

eric2001

Try the better business bureau. File a complaint with them, and Chevrolet will respond with the local rep contacting you.

rsss

Local svc. dealer has been great, done all he could, 1 of lst things was PCM [chip updated 3/99 & re-adjusted 6/99 by different dealer] is there a newer one I should have done, plus all tech bulletins [1st one local dealer hadn't recvd. yet, printed from you [edmunds] & hand carried it in to them], new valve, fluids changed a number of times. Local rep will only approve so much, I tried for new transmission but no go. Local rep never met with me or drive this thing, what's a person suppose to do??? I filed with NHTS, should I also try BBB???? ....I think I need the "Biggest Wig" as all I've had was "The Weakest Links", doing their jobs of making life & "Big Business" very hard to fight for us "little people" They aren't in a position to make "an exception to the rule". They just hope we surrender and give up the battle... so NAMES & ADDRESSES OF GM CEO & CHAIRMAN from anyone or are they hidden away & top secret??

ryanbab

TIP

Send any letter certified so they have to receive it. They will definitly receive it. I have read elsewhere this is how they got things rolling with getting their vehicles fixed.

Ill check tonight if no one else posted any numbers for you but i have a website (at home on bookmarks) and i think it has email addresses/addresses

everhart

I know you can get that info at the local library a friend of mine did for the CEO of a Credit card Co. He asked the librarian to help & said they found it in some refernce book. He looked on the net but couldn't find it.

punjab

Try this site:

http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/

rayt2

I was able to locate name & address of GM CEO through the GM/Chevrolet Website. My letter to them went unanswered so don't expect anything from the brass they just look at the bottom line MONEY ! BBB would be the way to go for you at this point.

Ray T.

obyone

to get GM's attention is to file a letter of complaint ONLINE at www.bbb.com

You will be surprised at the quickness of action by both the BBB and GM. Stop banging your head against the wall.

kernick

FYI - Just had this replaced on my '01 Z-71 X-cab, built in 08/00. This is per Bulletin 00-02-35-003. Technician found the shaft was loose, and removed and replaced it.
The symptom was a clunking sound from the front when I went over a large bump or pothole, or with a load on. I thought it was a shock or strut.
My wife said it took about 45 minutes.

mwille

I posted my problem about rear tires wearing out to quick(no not from a heavy foot). My 2000 ex-cab 2500 LS with an 8' box 4X4 now has 36,000 miles and I'm ready for my third set of rear tires.They wear evenly across. I have been to two different dealers five times. Finaily the chevy rep desided to put it on a frame machine and check the frame. I told the dealer that on visit #2.I'll know tomorrow the answer. I told he dealer if the frame is bent to get me a new truck, am I asking too much? I'll keep you all posted.

mledtje

Are your front's wearing OK? I mean, I have 27K on one truck and the tires look about 1/2 gone and I have 22K on the other and the tires look about 1/4 gone.

Do you rotate the tires every 5K? What tire pressures and loads are you running? It is hard to imagine what would cause the rears to wear like that. Maybe a bent rear axle and you have toe-in or toe-out at the back? With a bent frame the rear should still go straight and the fronts should adjust for it (you've seen some vehicles dog-tracking down road because of the rear not pointing straight ahead).

Keep us posted.

Mike L