Chevy Silverado Problems

obyone

You ain't seen nothing yet.....

I've been waiting for a harness for a child's seat. The first one they gave me was the wrong one, but I took it and tried to install anyway. Didn't work and returned to dealer who had ordered me another, different harness. Told them this isn't gonna work, but THEY tried anyway only to tell me that it doesn't work. Now I'm waiting for another harness which they forgot to order. This has been ongoing for three months for one harness. Will call tomorrow figuring two weeks was enough time for them to bring in the correct harness.

How did I know which harness was correct. My Helm's manual shows the harness that will work. So finally, faxed the info to the dealer hoping they can figure it out and get it right this time. Three months and counting for the right harness....go figure.

ryanbab

sounds like my tailgate hinge they lost eh?

frey44

i am considering buying a Silverado. i am trading in a 2000 Ranger 4x4 (it has a bad case of vibration which i cannot get fixed ! otherwise, i love it...).
here is what i need to know: i tow boats only occasionally (max weight 1800 lbs). i think i want the small V8, limited slip and auto in a 2 x 4 extended cab, with the towing package. is this a good choice ? what REAR END GEARING SHOULD I GET ? also, when GM says "traction control", is that limited slip ? or, is it something else ? i am also looking a Toyota Tundras, but am amazed that they do not offer that truck with limited slip ! incredible !

jrohr1

I HAD MY SILVERADO BOUGHT BACK IN APRIL. BOUGHT A D.C. TACOMA 4X4 AND I LOVE IT. FINALLY OVER THE INITIAL SHOCK OF GOING FROM A FULL SIZE TO THE TACOMA. ( SIZE, NOT POWER ) THE KIDS LOVE THEIR SEATS !!!!!!! WOW DAD, THE WINDOWS GO ALL THE WAY DOWN !!!!!! I HAD SO MANY PROBLEMS WITH MINE AND FINALLY GOT IT RESOLVED. DEALING WITH G.M. WAS, I HAVE TO ADMIT, EASIER THAN I THOUGHT.
GOOD LUCK EVERYONE !!!!!! JOHN

bamatundra

Actually, the '02 Tundras have limited slip available.

tomh12

It's a big step in size from a ranger to an extended cab chevy. You will adjust and love the room after you get used to it though. IF you have no plans to tow heavier loads AND don't plan to increase tire size, then the 4.8 with 3.73 would be fine. You will get better mileage with this combo, but if mileage isn't a huge factor to you, you'll never regret getting the 5.3--impressive power. Get the locker. GM traction control is NOT the same...involves engine power control and braking to the spinning wheel. Effective, but an entirely different system than the rear locker. Drive the different combo's and then decide for yourself.
Tom

txyank1

it's nice you're excited, but please don't "shout". It's still early.

gator36

I guess I shouldn't feel so alone...
2001 Rado.... 600 Miles. and I have piston
slap in the morning and when the motor is cold..
Quiet as a mouse at full temp..
I am going to take it to the dealer and at least
have them document it now. I will be purchasing
the GMPP at the end of one year. I will be getting
the major gaurd to 100,000 miles. Who knows,
I might be able to get them to put a new motor
in it at 80,000 miles...
Bought the GMPP on my former truck.. 1997 GMC
Sierra.. It paid for itself in spades....

obyone

GM is giving away major guard like cotton candy to anyone who documents the startup knock and files with the BBB. Course, the choice is up to you if you want to pay for yours.

jsmisek

I know, I know, what is this GMC guy doing at the Rado place. I can't help but to stay informed about what to look for with my truck. I too am experiencing piston slap in the morning. Did the BBB contact the dealer about this problem, or just exactly how do I get in on this 100,000 mile GMPP.

obyone

file a claim with the BBB pursuing buyback. Prior to actual buyback, BBB will ask you if you would settle for anything else. Tell them 6yr/100k major guard bumper to bumper. GM rep will almost surely agree cause he knows...1- there is no fix 2- don't cost them anything until you actually file for warranty services in which you may never.

Good luck!

jsmisek

Man, I am sure glad I took the time to look at this site! You guys are full of all kinds of info. Hope that I will be able to return favor sometime. I live in Nebraska, and it is warm this time of year, but as it cools down I am sure the piston slap will become noisier and more irritating. Thanks Again!

txyank1

stick around long enough and you'll find they're full of more than that!

obyone

check out this link. It takes you through the complete process.

http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/

sarti

This is on my 2000 Z71...... I have tried to do a search but it didn't work for me. Does anyone know of a TSB on the rear end clunking, the one you get after you slow down and take off again. I think it may be the springs you all talk about.But I'm not sure. Also after slowing down then accelerating it seems as though the truck is bogging down like it's not down shifting, I have to double pump the accelerator to make it run right,any clues? I've had to the dealer a couple of times and the say they can't find a problem. THANKS

jrohr1

MY TRUCK HAD THE SAME PROB. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THEY HAD THE WRONG LUBE IN THE TRANSFERCASE !! THEY CHANGED IT OUT, TOOK IT ON A 25 MILE RUN AND CHANGED IT OUT AGAIN. BELIEVE IT OR NOT, WHATEVER THEY DID DO FIXED THE PROB. BECAUSE FROM AROUND 8000 MILES TO 28000 MILES IT NEVER HAPPENED AGAIN.
THE CHEVY REP. TOLD ME THE COLD ENGINE KNOCK WAS DUE TO WRONG SIZE PISTONS. HE OFFERED ME, 100,000 MILE BUMPER TO BUMPER, BUY ANOTHER AND MAKE UP THE DIFF. IN M.S.R.P. OR THEY WILL BUY IT BACK. I TOOK THE BUYBACK. THE TRUCK HAD 28000 ON IT WHEN THE DEAL WAS DONE AND WE AGREED ON 11000. I LOST 1 YEAR OF PAYMENTS BUT GOT MORE THAN MY DOWNPAYMENT BACK. I PROB. COULD HAVE PUSHED THE MILES MORE BUT I HAVE ENOUGH STRESS IN MY LIFE ALREADY.
AS FOR MR. JOHN FLANDERS FROM G.M. WHO SAID " NOT NOW OR IN THE FUTURE WILL G.M. EVER BUY BACK YOUR TRUCK " GO SUCK MY TOYOTAS TAILPIPE !!!!!!!!JOHN
P.S. I'M NOT YELLING AND IF YOU THINK I AM, DON'T READ THIS EARLY IN THE MORNING. JOHN

txyank1

john. but in case you weren't aware, when you use all caps that's the typewritten way of yelling. 'specially when you end with !!!!!

ryanbab

hard on the eyes

(im 21 by the way and it is bothersome)

minikin

and I'm not 21.
-- Don

marko44

My '00 Ext Cab (January - 1st 4 door model at my dealer) has the "cold start knock". I had it documented last week at the dealership. I have also been hearing abnormal knocking coming from the engine intermittantly after it has warmed up. The dealer called TAN (GM technical assistance) and they suggested the top end engine treatment (fluid poured into the cylinders and left over night) What do you think of this approach? Should I let them do this? I only have 16K miles on the truck so I doubt I would have any carbon build-up.

I have already filed with the BBB against GM over excessive wind noise. If I'm driving with a crosswind of approx. 5 mph, it sounds like your driving thru a 50 mph wind storm. Has anyone else experienced this? I believe Rayt2 (SP?) said in a post last week before he left for Canada that he was suffering from wind noise as well. I would appreciate feedback from anyone with any insight as to what is causing this. This dealer has already replaced the rear quarter windows and door seals. Thanks!

Mark

obyone

How hard is it to close your doors? ext cab doors?

john294

been a long while since ive been here ,i see you all are still alive and well, thats good,my V6 rado is still running with no problems.(WARNING DONT BUY A V6 1500 Rado, very underpowered) also to the folks looking at ex war from GM, remember they run concurrent with your 3 year factory warrenty so if you get 5 years its really only 2 years extra its a rip off which I didnt know about till I setteled with GM with a ex warr.......

andyengemann

My 2001 GMC Sierra, 5.3L, 3.73, 4WD, Ext Cab, Z71 truck has been great with one exception that is driving me crazy. Can anyone offer a solution? There is a whistling noise that seems to be coming from the passenger side close to the bottom of the windshield. This noise only occurs when it is hot outside(90+) and the truck is running 60+mph. Has any one else experienced this noise?

It's great to see all this information on these trucks!

michgndr

What's it really sound like? Yesterday when I started my truck ('01 1500, 5.3L, 5000 miles) with the doors open, I heard what sounded like the normal engine, but with some "dieselly" sharper sounds also, then they faded away after about 10 seconds. Is that the famous piston slap, and how exactly do I [non-permissible content removed] to make the free extended warranty a reality?

rockypup

Have a 01 with less than 500 miles on it. Went on vaction. Came back truck was dead. No lights nothing. Wife mentioned radio had gone out then back on. Towed to dealership told just needed a jump. Told them there must be more to it. Any help? Thanks.

obyone

Have your windshield resealed. Either by your dealership or yourself.

michgndr

You've got it......that's what it is....piston slap. You need to have your dealer document it so that you can get the new pistons when they come out....yeah right.... It will start the wheels in motion once your dealer can verify.

michgndr

Sort of. It doesn't bother me, but if I can play this into an extended warrranty, then all is better.

marko44

They close rather easily. The dealer had sent it to their body shop because of the cab noise on two seperate occasions. The first time they adjusted the doors in. After that adjustment, approx. every other time I went to shut the door, it would not close properly. I took it back and now the doors shut OK, but they don't align properly. I actually went out with a friend this evening who is an auto mechanic that has lots of experience with locating noises. We taped all of the door panel and body joints to see if we could detect a reduction in the noise level but we couldn't. I'm at a loss at to what is causing this.

Still looking for any insight on the top end engine flush.

Mark

abc246

Is there a TSB on the ball joints? If I put stress on them they make noise like there is no grease. Someone posted information on the ball joints to grease them with no load on them by jacking the wheel up using the control arm. I did that many times, it does not help.

My 99 Blazer made the same noise and had to have the ball joints replaced at 35k miles. What the hell is GM making these joints out of?

John294, what rear axel ratio do you have? I have 3.73 in my V-6 and it has a lot of power. I have timed it 9.3 secs 0 to 60 with my Gtech meter when it was new. The V-6 is very smooth too.

t1tech

Had the same problem returned to dealer and they had the windshield resealed, have not heard it since.

wight1

GM has been telling customers they need the top engine cleaning procedure done when customers report they have the knocking noise. There is some belief that the knock is caused by carbon build-up in the combustion chambers (which I don't believe).

You can have them do the top clean (its just a solvent that gets rid of any carbon) and the engine knock will go away, but it will come right back after only a few hundred miles. I had the treatment done a few months ago on my 6.0l engine and the knock went away completely for about 300 miles or so, but it came back and it now knocks just as much as before the treatment. Every post I've ever read from anybody else who had the treatment done also said the noise came back after a few hundred miles. This noise is either a piston slap, wrist pin or rod bearing noise, but I don't understand how the top end cleaner makes it go away for awhile.

My dealer recommends that all their customers use only Chevron gasoline under the theory that Chevron's Techron additive is supposedly the best at keeping the pistons clean of carbon. I switched to Chevron right after the engine cleaner treatment was done on mine, and since it now knocks as much as before, I guess that theory doesn't really stand up.

You can get the top end cleaning job done and get some quiet starts for awhile, but its not a long term fix. BTW, don't let the dealer charge you for this service if your truck is still under warranty. Some dealers in my area have been trying to stick their customers for this service as a routine maintenance item, not a warranty item. The cost in my area is like $160. My dealer did it for me free of charge with no questions asked.

marko44

I may just let them do it so we can rule this out in the future. I appreciate the heads up on the service charge so I will call the dealer and see where they stand with regards to this charge.

Mark

punjab

I had the top end cleaning done, and it worked for a few hundred miles. The service tech said that it was due to carbon buildup. I asked what I should do to prevent this and he said nothing, that it wouldn't come back.

Well, when it did come back I was then told that the knock was normal. They said the computer allowed the engine to reach knock and then automatically retarded the timing to maximize fuel, perfomance, etc....sounds like a load of bs to me...

Anyway, i've been told that the top end cleaning involves pouring the additive into the cylinder heads. If this is true, then everytime they perform this they must pull the heads and then reseal them? (thus increasing the chance of contamination, compression loss, etc...). Anyone know for sure?

rayt2

I would'nt do it. Especially since it resolves knock for only 2-300 miles and comes back! Are they changing the oil after they contaminate it too!! Probably not. This is typical GM BS being handed out regarding the knock, but I'll bet that if you refuse they tell ya there's nothing else they are authorized to do and YOUR not cooperating with the recommended treatment, then they show you the door you came in thru. I don't have the knock just a small amount of lifter noise only at startup so I'm not worried at this point.

Punjab -- to decarbon they pull the spark plugs and add the tonic from there, not the heads!

Marko... as for the wind noise I never did resolve that issue..... yet.
Trip to Canada the truck ran great towing the trailer 777 miles round trip & got 10.1 mpg @ 70 mph....wooo whoo! Found that it's best to keep it in third gear tow/haul mode so as the cruise works without shifting back and forth whenever I hit a slight grade. 700 rpm difference but performance was better in third gear then in overdrive.

Ray T.

wolfeagle

Looking for some information concerning my '01 2500HD I/6.0. After driving at highway speeds for 20-30 minutes or more, I can take an off ramp, come to a complete stop and then when I make a right turn I get a clunking/chattering noise from the rear end. I can feel the chatter through the floor board and you can also hear the noise if the windows are down. Periodically I will also get the noise if I go straight from a dead stop. This only happens after driving at highway speeds for over 20-30 minutes if I am not towing. When I tow my 8500# trailer I get the noise all the time. I have taken it to the dealer twice. First time they told me I had to change the miff fluid as I had towed a trailer. They wanted $180, said I would get it done myself. Went home and looked at the owners book. Book said to change after 500 miles of trailer towing. Since I had only towed 250 miles, went back to dealership and they paid to change miff fluid. Worked great for 800 miles and now noise is back louder than before. Haven't towed the trailer since fluid change. If anyone has any ideas, they are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!
Wade

punjab

Thanks for the info. I think that "tonic" is the perfect word for the snake oil they are trying to pawn....

wight1

In an earlier post, I said the GM Top Engine Cleaner product they use smells like the same stuff that OMC made to decarbon their outboard motors. I used it in my old Johnson outboard several times. I might try some of that in my Chevy and see if it works there too.

Interesting to note that in the GM factory service manual, they indicate that an engine knock noise for up to 1.5 minutes on cold start-up is considered normal. Wonder what they consider abnormal?

trucks4me2

I too have/had the same problem (see post 651 on this board). It IS the Locking Diff clutches sticking. It usually goes away after a few turns once your off the freeway. I wrote an email to Eaton (who makes the axle) and they wrote back...

"The limited slip additive available through GM is compatible with the synthetic lube and should take care of the problem."

I had GM change the fluid (they also changed the Transfer case fluid) but haven't gone on any long trips with the RV since, so I don't know if this fixed the problem. Since you say the problem returned on your truck it will probably return on mine as well. If it does, I plan on adding the GM additive and try that. Post your success here.

Stan

tvalle

I've read a lot from everyone in regards to piston slap in the 5.3L and the 6.0L. I'm thinking about buying a '02 2500HD with an 8.1/Allison. Has anyone experienced piston slap problems with this engine? Also, I've read that GM is supposed to be using new pistons by Dec. '01 to fix this. If these pistons are the cure how would I know if I got them with the truck I plan on ordering? I'm sure they will have a part number just like everything else but I've never heard of specifying a certain part for an engine when ordering a new vehicle. I'd hate to think one would have to be experiencing the pinging sound before a remedy would be made available.

4x4man

My 2001 8.1 just developed the piston slap a couple of weeks ago currently there are about 2800 miles on truck. I do not have any problems with pinging under load or any pinging for that matter, just a kocking noise that starts about 10 seconds after the engine is running and usually lasts for about 20-30 seconds.

Bob

bfish71

I own a '99 Silverado Ex. Cab Z71 5.3L. I had a whistling noise and a rattle coming from the passenger side. The whistling noise was fixed by the dealer by adjusting the passenger side door. The rattling noise at 60-80mph was caused by the Bugdeflector II which I installed. The bugdeflector changes the aerodynamics causing turbulence at 60-80mph on the A pier. Removed the budguard and noise disappeared.

volkej

I have a Y2K Silverado 5.3 extcab 4x4. Following is a list of problems I've had so far:

1. Creak/pop in front end - Dealer replaced bushing in lower control arm and swaybar
2. Rear view mirror temp/compass stopped working - Dealer replaced mirror
3. Rear spring slap - Dealer installed rubber caps on end of spring leafs
4. Quarter window wind noise - Dealer replaced rear quarter windows
5. Throttle pedal sticking - Dealer replaced throttle body
6. 2 recalls for minor brake related issues
7. Transmission sometimes starts from 2nd gear and then drops back into first with a clunk - Dealer can't reproduce the problem
8. Alarm goes off for no apparent reason - Dealer can't reproduce the problem
9. Power window on drivers side stopped working while in the down position - by the time I got to the dealer it was working again - Dealer couldn't find anything wrong
10. Very loud lifter clatter after truck had sat for a few days - Dealer said it wasn't lifter clatter, but a piston problem - something about oil getting by rings causing a carbon buildup on top of pistons. GM is supposedly working on the problem and they expect a solution within 4 to 6 months. The solution will probably entail new pistons.

One thing about driving this truck - it's always interesting trying to figure out what's going to happen next.
I have mixed feelings about keeping it. On one hand the problems, for the most part, are being fixed, and just how many things can go wrong, anyway. But I'm getting tired of always waiting for the other shoe to drop. And I don't like to think about owning this thing after the warranty is gone.
Decisions, decisions.

themailman1

Had the bugflector on and the lund. Problems with both. Installed an ERG, no problems.

csandmann

I was just curious if anybody else out there has had any problems after the installation of a cat back exhaust system. In particular a Gibson unit on a 5.3L ext cab silverado? I remember reading some posts a while back. but to be honest I dont have the time to review thousands of posts. after I installed the unit I really noticed a drop in low end torque. I did notice some top end gain. But truth be told I'd rather have the low end back. I also noticed a vibration that felt like it was coming from the engine or trans around 800 rpm. It really felt like it was the torque converter causing the vibes so I took it to the dealer, and he concluded that it was the exhaust system. so I put the stock unit back on and the vibes went away. I called Gibson on the problem but they havent gotten back to me yet. any insight would be great. Also, I just placed an order for an 02 silverado any chance that they have fixed the piston problems yet?

obyone

and lost low end torque. Also in cab resonance at 1500-1800 rpm which is what the truck revs at freeways speeds. Most annoying POS I've owned. Bought a PV system and regained lowend + high end is a lot better. Costs a couple hundred more but anything was better than those Gibsons.

Since I had them on the truck while looking for another set (which I really took my time on) for 8 months, I figured just chuck it to experience and took a torch and cut it into itty bitty pieces. Call it $300 worth of satisfaction.

obyone

the knock on start up. Just cross your fingers and hope that the old parts don't somehow make their way to your truck. Good luck

gumpymac

Have 01 2500 HD, 6.0. Changed oil recently and bought a Delco Pf 58 ( the store didn't have a Pf59.)Their cross ref chart (Pf 58 to Fram)listed my truck so I installed it. Got to thinkin about it and found a Pf 59. compared Pf58 with Pf59 and noticed a diff. in the rubber check valves, otherwise both filters appear identical.I used the recomended 59 before driving it.After reading all the start up knock problems, thought I would throw this in. Never had a knock, just fuel injector clatter, kinda sounds like a diesel.

tvalle

I posted a message similar to this one from work but when I came home and got on my computer it didn't show up so I'll try again. Forgive me if I repeat myself. Would you be more specific about why you think GM may have solved the knock on start up problem? I'm very interested in what you may have heard or read regarding any permanent resolutions for this. This start up knock is the only reason I'm hesistant to order my '02 truck early. Also, if GM has figured things out how long would you advise one to wait in order for all the old parts supplies to be exhausted. I'd be willing to wait as long as June of next year to avoid this headache everyone is enduring.

volkej

I never noticed a knock on mine either, just that loud clatter on a cold start. If I were you I would take that sucker in to have it checked. I had to leave mine for a couple of days. Evidently they let it sit for that time so they would be able to get a very cold start.

Jim

jlflemmons

My 2k 2500 w/6.0l was built very late in the production year and I have not had any unusual noises in the engine. When the engine is hot, I may sometimes get a VERY slight ticking sound at idle but I assure you I have excellent hearing and am very picky about my truck. I have 11K miles on it.

Jim

BTW, I enjoy your posts. Seems like you have a good head on your shoulders.