By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Thanks
Tom
Member
Posts: 27
Registered: 20
posted 02-16-2001 07:16 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I got my reply from Eaton, not through an email but a phone call.
First of all the Mobil 1 is not the same as the
GM rear end fluid. That being said the mobil one will not harm the rear end, the only thing that could happen is the possibility of rear end chatter after towing or anything that would create heat, this would not cause damage to the rearend just would be annoying.
Using mobil one doesnt mean it will happen for sure just a possibility.
Secondly, as far as the 7500 mile service is concerned I'll try to sum up the explanation as best as I can.
As you drive the new parts create a wear pattern that on the gears. Creating this wear pattern also creates heat,once a wear pattern is created over say the 7500 mile distance you will no longer create the same amount of heat as when the gears were new. The reason for changing the fluid is that the heat from creating the wear pattern can break down the additives found in the rear end fluid.
If you do not tow heavy loads with your truck you can change your fluid at 7500miles and never have to change your fluid again, but lets say you have 7500 miles on the truck, you've created the wear pattern on the ring and pinion but then begin to trailer or haul a heavy load, this will create a different wear pattern, create heat and then you should change the fluid 500miles from when you started towing.
His suggestion was if you are going to tow, try to combine the 7500 mile service and the 500 mile service together so that you only have to change the fluid once, even if it means going past the 7500 miles within reason.
After that you should'nt really have to change the rearend fluid anymore so I've decided that I'll spend the money for the GM
stuff rather than the mobil one.
Hope that explains it
jlflemmons
Think I have the same situation as you. I have a ticking sound at idle that can't be heard from inside the cab but can be noticed when standing next to the front of the truck at idle.
ryanbab
So you're saying that you don't intend to change rearend fluid for the life of the truck? Isn't that more nuts than using the $26 rattlesnake oil from GM? Especially based on what someone said that Eaton said on pickuptruck.com. Then again...whatever floats your boat. Oh yeah, one question. What do you plan to do about your coolant replacement as coolant failure or lack of it can turn the motor into a pile of junk and would be more costly than replacing the rearend? Call me curious.
The ONLY problem I had out of all of them was the tranny problem- where when coming to an abrupt stop, the trans wants to start back up in 2nd gear. I eliminated it in all three by going in with a reprogrammer from hypertech with a few of my friends. No wind noise, no creaks, no rattles, no vibrations, nothing. The 5.3's all make noise on startup...then will make a light tapping noise when idling...the noise on startup is because of the relatively low oil pressure "engineered" into the 5.3's. The light tapping is because of the thin piston sidewalls and the nitrade coating on them. This info comes from a friend in Charlotte who remans the late model Chevy engines...
I also have 7 2000 longbed Chevys with the 6000 motor in them...none have any problems with them..all of these are construction vehicles, so they are not well-taken care of.
Also are you saying that like Firestone tires, the 5.3's all do that and we should look forward to a class action lawsuit or manufacturer recall on them? Low oil pressure "engineered" into the 5.3....don't know about that cause mine runs at 60+ psi...is that low pressure?
http://www.pvmufflers.com
BTW, did Gibson ever get back to you?
I don't expect perfection, it is after all, a Chevrolet, but since it is a gas engine I would prefer it sound like one rather than a diesel.
And, I guess I'm being picky, but I would also like, when I'm traveling at 70 mph, for it not to sound like the inside of a C-130 because of the wind noise from the rear quarter windows.
I am also aware that these trucks will loosen up after some miles, but I don't think it's unreasonable to expect a $30K truck to hang together past 15K miles. Do you?
hopefully i will be able to buy the 325i for much less, but we just started looking at them and you know the old song and dance that salesmen like to throw on ya. just takes time to beat em up a little.......then they usually deal, or you go somewhere else.
volkej
I had my quarter windows changed out (in pairs) 4 times before they got it right. So if you've done it once already, continue to do so until you find a good pair. Since the wind noise from the windows are gone, I hear roadnoise from between the front and rear passenger doors. Suppose if I have that fix...then maybe I can hear my motor knock....
Silverado with the v6 engine ? I want to know
if it is powerful enough to do light trailoring
and just your general thoughts ??
I'm interested in the Silverado 1500 2wd extended cab ls short box w/ v6 (200 HP) engine.
Thanks!!!!
My email is pbalich@kronos.com
As far as oil pressure...the 5.3's SHOW 50-60 pounds...but that is only the gauge calibration. GM had so many complaints about low oil pressure readings back in 95-96 ( I believe thats when they went to the lower oil pressure to reduce stress on the gaskets and also to keep the oil in the block longer to help cool the engine) that they recalibrated the gauges. As I said..I have a friend who owns a remanufacturing shop and does exclusive work on late model GM engines..he told me 30-35 pounds max is what the oiling system delivers. Which is plenty for the block design, but it does keep the upper part of the engine starved for oil at idle. Add that in with the thin piston walls with coatings on them (which reduces friction) and you have noise.
Now- all that is not to be confused with piston slap..its just that the ticking at idle is normal, from what I understand...and from my experience on 4 of the 5.3's and 6.0 motors...they all do it.
Did you use Dynamatt or one of the other brands? How much did you use ( 1, 2, or 3 layers) and what was the approximate cost? I looking at doing this in the future so I could use some advice. Thanks for your time.
Mark
http://users2.ev1.net/~jpendlum/Web%20Pages/SOUND%20DEADENING.htm
SORRY!!!
Front speakers hmmm on hold i have a few other things planned first
1. side mirrors plastic chrome having it painted blue
2. billet grill
3. shocks
Hopefully the first 2 will get done this month then wait for the shocks sept/oct
That's a nice engine in a toy truck like an S10, but a big mistake in a real truck.
Hans
Extra Strength Muffler Bearing-
Do you have an annoying rattling in your mufflers? Are they sagging a little? Don't quite sound right? That could be the symptoms of a worn muffler bearing. Allow me to introduce the KaleCo muffler bearing! It's unique iron-graphite composite with pre-grease-packed assembly provides over 200,000 miles of smooth muffler operation! It is most likely they will outlast your mufflers. Also works well on heavy duty exhaust systems. One per muffler.
$100 Each
$175 Pair
I have 1 on order
I am hoping for some extra HP
Ryan
LOL
Bob
its has a strawberry scent to it
Seelig - I went to Dynamats website and read the specs on Dynamat Original and Dynamat Extreme. Since you used the more expensive type(foil type), how many layers did you apply? Where did you purchase it from? What quantity did you buy (sq. ft.) and how much did it run you?
Ryan - thanks for the link. I found some other useful stuff on that guys website as well.
Mark
I worry about the axles, transmission, and transfer case, not the engine! The front diff has already been replaced (housing cracked under load in 4x4). This is the same diff in the V-8. The V-6 has a lot of torque right off the line.
This V-6 also runs 9.3s sec 0 to 60. Not very far from the V-8. I just checked it again and my last time was 9.7 sec, but that was in very hot temps.
The tow haul mode helps the V-6 more than you would think. I actually bought the V-6 so I would not stress the rest of the truck in hard use, but this engine can still break it.
I have a 2000 Silverado Ext. Cab short bed with the V6. It also has Auto and A/C. Other than that it is a regular base model with a few aftermarket accessories like tranny cooler, hitch, bedliner, rail caps, etc.
I DO tow a pop-up camper (wgt is about 2500 lbs loaded) and have never had any problem with acceleration. I have even towed a 4500 lb boat and trailer and not had any major problems. So if you just want to do normal household chores, the V6 should be fine. I have used mine to haul just about anything a homeowner would use a truck for and had no problems.
As for gas mileage, my best for highway mileage was about 22 mpg with 4 people in the cab and luggage in the bed. I mostly drive in D.C. suburb traffic which is stop and go most of the time. I get about 18 mpg in this type of mixed driving but I also use the A/C much of the time.
My suggestion is to drive the V6 and 4.8L to see if you like the extra power verses the cost. I have had a 4.8L as a rental several times and do like the power. However, the rental was also a Z71 4x4 so it was thirstier for gas. Also be sure to take both models onto a highway and see if the passing power is sufficient for your needs. My V6 downshifts more than the 4.8L did. Not a big deal but some people might not like that.
Also take a look at local dealer ads. Many use the base V6 model as their loss leader to get you in the showroom. That is the model that I bought. I got mine with auto,a/c, and stereo cassette for $19,500. The closest 4.8L models that I could find were all a few thousand more due to the extras that were packaged with them. With the rebates GM has now, you could probably get a V6 pretty cheap.
Good luck with your decision,
Rico
As always, your best bet is to rent a V6 for a day (I think UHaul has V6 Sierras) and hook up or load it up the way you plan to use it. That is the best test.
I also use my truck as a commuter vehicle and find that I can squeeze 20-21 mpg out of it - but I drive very conservatively - I actually drive the speed limit and use cruise whenever I see an opportunity. I got 27 mpg in combination city/highway, with highway being about 1/2 the tankful. However, I do have the regular cab which is lighter than the ext cab.
I would not rely just on anyone's advice on the V6 - it's best to actually drive both the V6 and V8 and make your comparison. But if I were taking advice on a V6, I would take it from V6 owners, not V8 owners. I found that the 4.3 V6 and 4.8 V8 engines were about the same in performance, unless you really put your foot into it - and I never drive that way.
I have nothing against V8s - I'll probably buy a V8 suv - but the V6 does the job for a light hauler, not a racing or luxury vehicle. I put the difference in base model vs. LS price in accessories I wanted, and still have a lot of money left over. Each to his or her own. Good Luck.
Best mileage to date has been 24 mpg @ 65
Repairs to date (all done under warranty, none since 36K):
A/C compressors (2)
Rear leaf springs (one was sagging)
EGR valve solenoid
A/C control head
Mechanically has been problem free.
Test drive one and see what you think. I would recommend the 3.73 instead of the 3.08 ratio.
Texas Truck - r