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Chevy Silverado Problems



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    your questions have been asked since the beginning of the silverado new style. Haven't seen anyone answer it other than no and no.
  • smith53smith53 Posts: 72
    do you know if there is a tsb for the silverado squeal when turning left? if not do you know what parts need to be replaced to solve this problem? dealer claims no cure.
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    2001 Ex cab Z71. Last night I installed nerf bars. The brackets for the bars fit on the front and rear (skipped the middle, didn't touch) cab bolts right under the metal/rubber cup piece. The factory cab bolts were replaced with kit furnished ones, same length and diameter, but threaded only at the end two inches, not all the way down the shank like the factory bolt. I torqued the bolts to 65 ft-lbs per the instructions and everything went on like it was supposed to.

    Today, I started to get groans and clunk-like noises in the cab when traveling over bumps at low speeds (30 and below). I sounds (from the inside) just like something on the suspension is bouncing around, but that system wasn't touched. At higher speeeds, it feels like a LOT more of the road and engine vibrations are making it to my feet through the floorboards. Something ain't right. The nerfs are firm and in the correct position, but these noises are not good.

    Any suggestions? Is 65 ft-lbs of torque too much...did I overtighten the cab bolts and outdo the isolation pads? I'm at a loss to understand this one.
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Posts: 255
    when I installed my Westin nerf bars last year, it too made noises on warm days. Kind of a creak or groan. The noises would come and go with temperature. After driving this past winter no noises now that weather has warmed up here in New England. Now watch, soon as I said that it will start, haha. Try checking the torque again. Loosen the bolts and re-torque. Check the middle bolts as mine were looser than 65 lbs. Others have reported the same.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    should have had the accessory place install them i have had zero problems with mine haha

    (im just messing with you guys)

    Hope you can get it worked out

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I have the same problem with mine made by Luverne. If you look at the GM accessories nerf bars you will note that they bolt to the frame, not the body mounts. The only problem I see is that the GM units are chromed steel, not stainless.

    One thing you might try is to remove the isolation bushing and lube it with silicon grease. Then re-install and see if that helps. Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.

  • wilmacwilmac Posts: 27
    I have Luverne on my 01 Z-71 and had noise problems. They mount to front and rear cab bolts and have a rear brace that attaches to the frame on the rear. What was causing the noise was the rear brace not staying tight where it bolts to the frame. No lock washers. Lock washers added and problem is fixed. Wilson
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    Thanks for the inputs. It sounds more and more like rubber making noise under compression. Grease might help it, but I'm grease-illiterate. Does silicone grease differ greatly from other varieties, such as moly?

    Anothe question. I have the brackets for my nerfs installed right at the head of the cab bolt, below the plate portion of the isolation bushing. I wonder if moving the bracket above that bushing, right up against the frame, would alleviate any extras stresses on the the bushing. Not sure it fits. How did your brackets fit in? Below or above the bushing?
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Try ,they have an auto-headlight overide switch kit.
    -- Don
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Posts: 255
    silicone where rubber is concerned. Something like Dow 111 will work fine and stay where it is put. It also doubles as dielectric compound, caliper assembly lube...etc

  • bigjohn9bigjohn9 Posts: 3
    Just an update....
    My 2001 Silverado intermittently sticks in third gear. I have to manually shift it into nuetral, then back to drive to get it to drop in to drive. The mechanic working on my truck finally found a document pointing to the problem. I don't think it was a TSB, but I'll find out what the heck it was and post it this week. Anyway, it's related to the ignition. That might also solve the problem of my airbag light not shutting off after I start the truck. Again, an
    intermiitent problem (How come intermittent problems only occur when the owner is driving the damn thing....they never happen when the mechanic is driving it?).
    The third and last problem is a tinny rattle at 35-40 MPH from underneath. Sounds like it is just under the passenger seat. I haven't crawled underneath this thing yet. Where's the catalytic converter located? I had the same problem on an old LTD I drove. Turned out to be a loose heat shield around the exhaust.
    Actually, I have a fourth problem...the most frustrating one; dealer indifference. If anyone finds a solution to that one, lemme know. I can make you rich.

  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    My dad's '01 started having a rattle under the truck at about that same speed. Wouldn't happen if he was accelerating normally to higher speeds, but if he let off the gas around 35-40 mph and let the tranny shift into fourth, and then try to accelerate gently again, we'd hear a noticable tinny rattle underneath. Not sure if he's got it fixed yet. Will ask.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    or is it the engine lugging? Course could be the heat shield for the exhaust but I thought that problem was only on Fords. lol
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    Definite rattle on my dad's truck...not sure who you were talking to though.
  • ndared1ndared1 Posts: 21
    Well folks haven't been on for awhile no problems with my 01, HD, Xcab, Lbox, 8.1L, ally, 4.10.
    I have a victory red truck love it. However off road at my ranch in New Mex I encounter many gravel areas and as a result have had poor success with the paint. It is chipped everywhere more than my previous truck. The windshield also has 7 chipshots already (owned 6 months). I am happy overall with vehicle however these two items are worth noting. The paint is chipped by the lightest of gravel and the windshield is cracked by what I think is the smallest of stones. Hell I wouldn't be surprised if these big old bugs wouldn't crack it. Off to see insurance man and get it replaced. I'm a little disappointed in the paint durability, it cannot be more than .001" thick.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I was talking to you....


    Had the sides of my truck repainted under warranty cause the paint had some dust, orange peel, and was almost transparent on some parts of the quarter panel. Body shop did an excellent job...way better than the factory....especially on that famous GM orangepeel.
  • hdriderhdrider Posts: 49
    I have a 93 6.5L TD 4x4 5spd that is fixin' to be replaced by a new 2500HD, however, before I can sell this thing, I need to fix a problem... (Actually, several problems, but this is the worst.)

    Every now and then, after I park, it won't start. All console gauge indications look like I just didn't have the clutch all the way in (i.e. battery needle swings, message lights blink, etc.) I've tried re-pressing the clutch to the floor, turning the ignition off then on, and just letting it sit. Nothing. The starter was replaced and that didn't help. A dealer installed ignition kill switch was removed and that didn't help. Batteries and cables replaced, nada. The only thing that works is getting the truck rolling and putting it in gear. Not popping the clutch to start, just putting it in gear. That seems to jar whatever the problem is loose and then it starts. I'm thinking it might be a flat spot on the gear in the transmission, but not sure. Any ideas?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    On my 2K 2500/6.0L the entire exhaust system had to be replaced at 8K miles. The 6.0 uses a true dual exhaust back to the muffler, with two converters. One of the converters bolts up to the header pipe, the other is clamped to one of the muffler input pipes. Where the two pipes clamp together, the id and od had a significant mis-match and so the whole thing was removed and replaced under warranty. No more rattle.

  • jpfltawjpfltaw Posts: 43
    The paint on my 00 rado is the worst I have ever seen, the door jams all around are barely covered. The truck is Indigo Blue, but inside the door frames on the edges are green. I spotted it in the bed when it was picked up, but that was a no issue since it went straight to the Line X shop. A wood chip hit the tailgate and left chip out off the paint to the primer. A 2x4 brushed the side and left a 2 in. scratch on the rear quarter panel. The paint on the 99 rado held up better than this 00 rado. Too bad because I sold back the 99 to GM ( vibra rado ), had it for 10 months and not a ding or scratch any where. Then got the 00 rado and every time you look at it or wash it there be another S C R A T C H !!!!! The paint is tooooooo thin, it all adds up to more profit to the General. Save a gallon of paint and charge the consumer another thousandbucks. Sewell Chevrolet N.O.LA. SUCKS !!
  • chadc777chadc777 Posts: 54
    I had Westins put on my 2001 and got 1/2 mile down the road and they clunked over some pot holes at 20 - 30mph. Took them back the next day and they tried to adjust them. Same thing. Took them back the day after and they road with me to hear it. Then they went to remove them so we could test drive it again and ensure the noise went away. When they went to remove them, they saw a tiny wear spot on the frame where one of the brackets would clunk when the cab shook on rough bumps. They adjusted them again and no more noise at all. Very happy with them and amazed with the willingness of the folks to resolve the issue (Good excuse to buy more accessories from I did)

  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    I had the tire store (Les Schwab) where I bought my Westin CPS step bars install them on my 2001 Silverado LS ext-cab, Z-71. They did a great job the first time. Absolutely no problem with them. They are sturdy, and no problems with clunking.

  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    Dean, in your vast library of TSB's, could you post the intermediate steering shaft TSB. I know you posted in the past but this time I want to print it to take to dealer. Thanks in advance,

  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    One more thing. When you put on your after market exhaust, did you take out the original in one piece? If so was it difficult? I don't want to cut mine up for removal, in case for some odd reason I want to put it back on.

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    The stock exhaust, with a little work can be taken out without cutting. I would suggest using a lift as it would be very difficult on jack stands. There are photos associated with the TSB for the intermediate shaft replacement. Unfortunately, these photos don't show up when I copy and past to edmunds. If you need the full TSB, email with your email address.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Bulletin No.: 00-02-35-003

    Date: June, 2000


    Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)

    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) 2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models
    (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering


    Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.


    Parts Information

    Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.

    A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed.

    1. Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.

    2. Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
    3. From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.

    4. From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.

    5. Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.

    ^ From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.

    ^ From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.

    ^ From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.

    6. Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.

    7. Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.

    8. Install the upper bolt and nut.

    Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).

    9. Install the lower bolt and nut.

    Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

    Warranty Information
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    looks like my old '00 2wd x-cab Silverado is now in Oklahoma, auctioned in a midwest region auction, now has @ 7200 miles. GM gets rid of another.
  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    Dean, an email would be great for just the photos. Address is

    By the way just got my 2001 tech manuals in the mail, they are a whopping 5 volumes, and quite large, all stackecd up must be about 15 inches. thanks for the TSB.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Will email you with the TSB on Thursday. Tried to use a remote server and it won't post the pics either.
  • kablotskykablotsky Posts: 14
    Has this happened to anyone you know? The front axle on my 2000 Silverado 2500 4x4 Reg Cab 6.0L 5spd shot a piece of itself through the housing last Saturday. (bummer!)

    My driveway has developed a good-sized pothole and I made the mistake of parking my truck in it. To get out, I had to pull the truck (empty, no load) up a hill and out of the hole. On the first attempt, in 2H, the rear wheels spun. I don't think I spun them long or fast enough for the locker to kick-in. On the second attempt in 4H the engine stalled (did I let the clutch out too fast?). On the third attempt in 4L the truck started out, then *BANG* like a gunshot and then it cleared the hole. I didn't think much of it (duh?), and drove in 2H to the park a mile away. When I returned from a short hike, I noticed a pool of gear oil under front of the vehicle. I traced it to the front axle (differential) and decided the truck would make it a mile home in 2H.

    I pulled off the skid plate and noticed that about 1.5" up, on the rear left of the differential, there was a hole with gear oil dripping out. A piece of metal was embedded in the hole from the inside and a chunk of white metal about the size of a chickpea (a piece of the housing) was hanging from the hole.

    The truck is one week shy of its first birthday and only has 13k miles (I have other vehicles). The service manager told me when I dropped it at the dealership Saturday afternoon that it would be covered under warranty, but I'm still not happy about it. I suspect the torque of the powerful engine magnified by the very low first gear magnified again by the low gear on the transfer case was too much for the front axle.

    For the most part the truck has been great -- otherwise than destroying its front axle, it has been problem-free, comfortable on the road, and a strong plow pusher. I hope that this was a manufacturing defect and not a design defect so I don't need to worry when it is going to blow next. I'm looking forward to getting the truck back so I can pick up some material to patch that pothole.
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