Chevy Silverado Problems

ricsch

may want to consider Velvet Ride shackles, others have installed them and sounds like it helps the ride!

mledtje

I'd go and repeat the same thing in 2wd and see how quickly it stops. Should be the same in 2wd or 4wd. If it coasts in 2wd and stops in 4wd, I'd look closely to make sure the front and rear are the same ratios and tire sizes.

Mike L

redsilverado

i had replaced the center plastic piece awhile back. i was on a jobsite where two fella's were moving a dumpster around, and one came in to tell me that they "barely bumped my truck a". it was no big deal as they only dented the edge of the center cover, and the piece was 18 bucks at the dealers parts department. if your sevice reciept shows that they did indeed perform work that pertained to the bumper, you may have more of a chance of making them take care of it than you know. try your local BBB, they love to enforce actions against dealers that are known to be careless. all it takes is for that dealer to have had one complaint of this sort to help em move on it.

bucksport

Thanks for the hint. Looked up Velvets on the BF Goodrich web page. Have apmt Mon AM with Chevy service - we'll see what they say but serv mgr said this AM that he had not heard of Silverados bouncing. Also talked to my usual tire guy. He sez there arent any OEM replacement tires available due to the Firestone mess but a Cooper P Metric would work well and give a softer ride. Sez he'll swap the Generals & $$$ for Coopers.
Right now, wife wont drive the pickup. Regards, Buck

obyone

I had changed the shocks to edelbrock, the shackels to velvet ride, and added roadmaster active suspension. Also changed all four the Generals three times with a fourth set on order when I made the dealer a deal to upgrade to Michelin LTX M/S 275/70R16. It did help a little. The generals are P or passenger series tires and tend to bounce at low speeds around 30 mph. Their defect rate is rather high as General had no problem with sending set after set of replacement tires. When you remove the tires from the rim, you'll notice that the sidewalls are extremely soft. I couldn't believe it.

Good luck with yours.

toor

Does the plastic piece just pop off?
I got a quote from GMPartsForSale.com for $31.13. Not bad at all. Now I just want to know how easy/difficult it is to take off and put on.
Thanks.

redsilverado

the piece has plastic tabs that fit into slots in the chrome bumper. once they are in, they are in for good. took me 15 minutes to remove and install new one.

toor

Thanks for the quick reply.
Yours was the center peice right?
The side piece should be the same way, right?
My center piece is fine. But the ones on the left and right are scratched up. Is that one big piece or two different ones?

redsilverado

it's two pieces and after going out to look at it, yes, they clip on the same way. you'll see once you get em off. you don't want to pursue em huh? what state are you in?

dmnsmith2

Thanks,
D

ricsch

hear anything about this engine noise on start-up, and supposedly GM is working on a fix which would be to replace the pistons in the V8 engines? This could open up a new can of worms.

quadrunner500

TSB=technical service bulletin
PCM=powertrain control module (brain box)

quadrunner500

>hear anything about this engine noise on start-up, and supposedly GM is working on a fix which would be to replace the pistons in the V8 engines?<

Engine noise on startup? Yes, been talked about since '99, if not before. Not only Silverado, but F150 and Tundra too. The sound is real, but personally, I think it's nothing to worry about. But as for the fix GM is working on? This I can assure you. If they are working on a fix, the source of the rumour will not be from within GM. Ford did have a program for replacing pistons for a piston slap problem. But it wasn't a rumour. There was a bulletin on it. It was widely reported in press publications, magazines alike. And you had to have the problem. They didn't come to you with an offer of free pistons.

But in the 2000 GM press release, there was mention of tighter clearance on the journals for quiet running at startup. Pistons were not mentioned. Since they've already produced about 12 million pistons at least, if there was a piston problem with 2001 I think GM would have been aware of it with a fix before now.

So if you want to get action, be on record, you have to take your truck in, and put it at the mercy of the top-end soak, and possibly being told it's just normal. If somewhere down the road you have a problem, you have a case. A lot of these noises have no bearing on the long term reliability or performance of a motor.

toor

I'm in hawaii. W/ obyone.
Thanks for your help man.
I ordered them today, they should be here Monday.
Can I just yank the old ones off??

redsilverado

when you look up underneath, you'll see how the bumper caps are held down ny the rectangular nylon pins going through the bumper. on the ends, towards the bottom outside edge you'll see a plastic push pin. push that out first, and then pull up where the rectangle pins go through the bumper. when installing the new ones, it is helpful to have a piece of wood and hammer to set the new covers in these pin locations. put a good shop rag between the piece of wood (2x4) so you don't mar the new caps. also you could grab Obyone and give him a couple 4 packs of Guinness, and he'll probably do it. just tell him Mike sent ya. LOL

toor

Thanks for the tips. The bumper covers should be coming tomorrow. 2nd day air is the only way they would ship out to Hawaii. I still saved $25 though.
The dealers here were charging $51 per piece. And as you know, the rear bumper has the left and right piece, as well as the center.

wight- did you put your westin spacers in yet? has the squeaking stopped?

obyone- Guinness. yummy

obyone

I got tired of paying $7.79 for a 4 pack at Safeway...thank goodness found it at Costco $18.99 for a 15 pack. Hehe...

redsilverado

my mistake, you better pick up 2 of the 15 packs, you know, 1 15 pack per side LOL. how come you guys get treated right on the Guinness, but the dealers rip you on parts?

obyone

where they get away with is the additional freight charges...using the reasoning that we are in Hawaii.

Like my Guinness cap...$18 for the cap and $24 for the shipping from Ireland.

frostbit

Hey all,

Nome, Alaska here. 7,000 miles on the Silverado and mostly good so far. Have the squeaking doors (just put silicone grease on the weatherstrip, have not drove it yet), and also encountered the 3rd and 4th doors that would not close and latch when it went to below zero. Not sure what to do about that..

But I need some advice here: I have the cloth bucket seats with the center console. I also have the cassette player, which mounts in a seperate pod between the console and dash. I never use the cassette player (always the dash-mounted CD), so I want to take it out. I want to remove the whole pod, so I have the floor space to set my travel lunch box right where it sits now. Then, it looks like there would be a trim cap that covers the open section in the lower dash below the ash tray, which I would purchase and install.

Question is: When I gave it the once over, it looks as though the entire seat/console assembly has to come out to remove the forward section. I also know there are heater ducts running beneath this unit to the rear cab heater output. I assume these are sectional so they will come out. GM does build this truck in bucket seat configurations without the floor mounted cassette player (no rear heater output), so I know it would work.

Anyone have the experience or know-how on how to approach this project?

Thanks for your input!

obyone

There are 4 bolts in the center console that you have to remove. Once that's done, you can seperate the "pod" from the console. Then remove the pod. Not sure how stable the center console will be without the pod there.

64roadster

I also have experienced "bouncing" on certain freeway sections. I have a 2001 extended cab with General tires. If I don't vary the speed in those sections, the bouncing and shaking can be a pain. This problem always occurs at the same section of the freeway that is a small part of my daily commute. For that reason, I accept the theory that this is related to the expansion seams between concrete sections and not the fault of the truck.

wight1

no, did not work on step bars this weekend. Spent Saturday morning changing rear axle fluid and putting on aftermarket ribbed aluminum axle cover. Also fixed some of the squeaks in the rear door with some silicone on the weatherstripping. will try to get to step bars next weekend and let you know how it turns out. Have all of your squeaks, pops, etc. totally disappeared after the dealer repairs?

ryanbab

any tips for changing the rear fluid? Is it pretty straight forward?

Which fluid did you use?

I might be changing mine soon because friday im gonna be towing a 16ft box trailer.

wight1

there's a drain plug on the bottom of the housing, on the right side just in front of the back side cover. just pull the plug and let it drain good (drains faster if you also remove the filler plug on the right side of the housing).

If this is your first time to change it, I'd suggest that after draining the old fluid, you then pull the back cover off - in addition to the magnetic drain plug, there's also a large magnet inside the housing that collects a lot of debris, most of which comes from the initial gear break-in. You can get a cover gasket at your dealer or any parts store.

I had been using Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil (since Mobil also makes all of the GM goodwrench oils) and the Mobil oil is like 1/4 the cost of the same stuff in a GM bottle. On this change, however, I switched to Royal Purple synthetic gear oil. After reading some literature on the RP product, I believe it may be better than the Mobil 1 at providing high temperature protection. Also, the RP product doesn't stink as much as normal gear oil.

wight1

forgot to mention - after you pull the cover off, you can clean out the inside of the housing, the gears and bearings with a spray can of brake cleaner. It removes all the dirty oil and gunky stuff left behind. The brake cleaner also evaporates and leaves no residue behind to contaminate the new gear oil.

ryanbab

Thanks

What about refill. How did you know when to stop?

How much fluid ?(i have a 1500 3.73 rear end with locker)

Thanks for the help

Ryan

wight1

put the cover back on with the new gasket, tighten up the cover bolts, put the drain plug back in and tighten it, then start pouring the new oil in the filler hole on the side of the housing. Yours should hold about 2.5 quarts or a little less (see your manual for the capacity). I keep filling it until fluid starts running out the filler hole. On the 1/2 ton models though, I seem to remember the manual says to fill it to about 1/2" to 1" below the top of the hole, so I guess you have to put in about 2 quarts and stick your little finger in there - keep adding a little bit at a time until you can touch the fluid inside with your finger.

scottorado

I finally found the source of high speed wind noise when it is above 90 degrees. I put piece of tape across the top of my windshield and the noise stopped. I think when it is hot, the rubber softens and flutters in the wind like a reed. Has anyone else seen this or know a fix?

Thanks,
Scott

wight1

your noise has been a fairly common problem. There is a service bulletin which involves the application of a sealant to seal the rubber gasket to the glass. your dealer should do this for you under warranty.

toor

when your truck is in park (w/ brake on) if you push up and down on the rear bumper (jump up and down in the bed) does your truck squeak?
mine does, and I don't know if it's normal or not.
Thanks

dgeddes

Going to the dealer for the 3rd time for the the engine knock syndrome Has anyone heard if the 2001 models are having the same problem. Also has anyone had an engine failure due to the knock? Any replies good or bad would be appreciated

pilot9999

I have the windshield noise too. The gasket
explanation sounds likely to me, I will try the
tape trick to confirm.
My new truck went into the shop at 400 miles for a
rough idle problem. An injector wire was loose
causing a rough engine. Truck built in Flint on a
Friday. Nuff said.
Tom K

obyone

can you isolate the problem? check the shock bolts, the shackels, and anywhere the suspension is connected to the truck. Try oiling the areas and see if it dissappears. Don't use WD40 tho.

toor

So i take it the squeaks are not normal.
I have an appt w/ Waipahu Auto on Friday.
Do you have any experience w/ them?
hopefully then can do something about it.
The strange thing is the JN, fixed the frameflex creaks last week, but not this. But I don't want to go back to JN anymore.

obyone

Sounds to me like somethings not tightened to spec. Whether it be the box to frame bolts or the shakels, it is coming from a moving part. Does it do it when you jump on the bumper and the bed or only one of them? These things are usually caused by plastic or rubber to metal as in the case of the front spring isolators squeaking.

At least your rear leaf springs aren't clanging like some others....

obyone

My last experience with Waipahu Auto was back in 1976 with my Celica. Hear many different horror stories about Waipahu Auto, fortunately they are all sales stories.

I can understand your reasoning for not wanting to return to JN...they have been refusing customers who haven't bought their vehicle at JN, warranty service. The guys at Cutter were kind of confused as they are supposed to accept any GM brand vehicle that they sell, no matter what part of the country it came from, for warranty service. Instead, they are telling owners to go to Cutter.

redsilverado

use lubriplate for pivot points in the rear suspension. i say this in case your dealer pulls the "everything within specs" routine. that stuff is some of the best lube one can use for moving parts. also, i'd go to Dean's dealership for warranty work, take Dean with ya if you can. by now, they know not to give the run around to ol Dean, so this way you might get some decent service. LOL

toor

Doesn't matter where I jump. Bumper, center of bed, front of bed, side of bed. I still get the exact same squeak. And I can't isolate exactly where it's coming from. Seems like right around the shocks area.

What is "shackels"?
And where can I find lubpriplate?
Just in case Waipahu auto doesn't fix the squeaks on Friday.
thanks

toor

I notice that as the day goes on (it gets hotter) the squeaks/creaks get less and less.

mike26

I have not been on this board for quite some time, if my post is redundant in comment and complaints I apologize. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar exerperiences to mine. if so have you resolved them or do you still spend more time at the dealership then driving.

I have been a long time fan of Chevy trucks, I have owned about 10 in my 16 years of driving. I have never had so many problems with a vechile until my '99 1500 5.3 z71. I have 37000 miles worth of grief:

1)The rear disks had to be replaced at 500 miles
2. Sliding window had to be replaced 6 times due to water leaks.
3. On the fourth transfer case (only used when pull the trailer with 4 quads out of the back yard about 2000lbs total)
4. Computer has been flashed over 6 times to update the shifting, timing, "fix the pining" which I still have.
5. Door hinges squeaking terribly.
6. Brake Master cylinder defective replaced twice.
7. Steering shaft replaced three times still rattles.
8. brakes are soft, pads look good, pedal hits floor dealer said it is normal.
9. Daylight running passenger side lights replaced monthly.
10. Put 600 lbs of crushed stone in the bed which sank the [non-permissible content removed] end 4 inches now the rear end bounces traveling down the highway, so much for the idea of a half ton.
11. on the fourth trannie dealer said I should put a trannie cooler on since I'm overhearing it with the quads/trailer, (I do wood working/cabinet making as a hobby) pulling the wood shop (3500lbs) and the camper (4100 abs). I asked the dealer if he meant in addition to the factory cooler and what exactly I was doing beyond the capibilty of the truck. thier response was a shoulder shrug.
12. third rear axle seals keep blowing out.
13. second throttle body gas pedal still sticks.

any comments appreciated.

jaguar0027

Well even after applying a generous amount of dielectric silicone grease to the rear door of my rado.. damn thing still squeaks! It seems to silence it a bit.. but kinda like JAWS.. just when u think its safe to turn down the radio.. BAM there it is again!

Guess its back to the dealer for me when I have time to take them for a ride to prove it to them!!!

Jim

redsilverado

after going through every thing that moves or breathes around the back door, it finally came down to the little rubber bumper at the bottom edge of the rear door. a dab of grease and i'm now satisfied. BTW- yesterday i rode in a fairly new for super duty 4 door (nice ride) and the rear doors sounded like someone forgot to put latches on em. now i don't feel so bad. the noises i hear in my truck are actually acceptable considering that these are pickups and not beemers. having 2 trucks let's me do a lot of comparison, and compared to some trucks i've owned in the past, the chevy starts out as just a super quiet machine. breakin and loosening up reveals sounds and squeaks that they are probably just going to have regardless of how much we do to eliminate the noises. like BCO once said, that's what the radio is for. LOL
good luck on yours, and have a great 4th.

jaguar0027

Thanks for the heads up. Perhaps I need to take a closer look at the rear door. I did end up putting the silicone grease on both doors (weatherstripping only) hoping to clear it up but no luck so far.

I think something may be off slightly on the alignment of the door or the way the latch hits the striker. But like you said these are trucks and not beemers. If this is the only problem that I ever get with my Silverado.. then so be it!

Thanks again,

Jim

obyone

It may help if you could have someone jump on the bumper while you lie under the truck to isolate the squeak.

Easiest way to get lubriplate is to order it online. There is one distributor in Hawaii and he is very hard to get a hold of. Plus he is a wholesaler so you would probably have to buy it by the case.

You can order some here:

http://www.lubriplate.com/webstore.htm

BTW, I also recommend getting the Chain and Cable fluid in aerosol...beats the pants off of WD40.

Shackels are located at the end of the leaf spring near the rear of the truck.

redsilverado

gettin the passenger side 3-D? he he

toor

I have seen the light!!! I found the source of the squeaks and have put a stop to it. WOO HOO!!!
On my 2001 rado, if you look behind the rear tire on the drivers side, there are two metal wire like brackets that are guiding some lines (maybe brake lines) from the front of the truck to the back. The passenger side doesn't have these. One of these metal brackets was rubbing against the bed frame. Could see where the rubbing was happening. First I just tried to bend the sucker. But it was pretty elasticky, so what I did was cut a piece of my rubber slipper and shoved it between the two contact points(wire brace and bed frame). Tightened the bolt back up, and NO SQUEAKING when pushing up and down on the bed.
I know the squeaking is/was only a minor thing, but it was really annoying.
Thanks to all of you who kept answering my pleas for help. Mahalo!!!

Also, my rear bumper covers arrived on tues. (if you remember, they were scratched up at the dealer last week when the techs were trying to solve the creaking/squeaking problem). The old ones popped right off, and the new ones right in.

My truck is looking AND running like brand new again.

akjbmw

Looks like a Velvet-Ride.

obyone

You betcha they are.

toor

Glad you found the source. Did you have a part number for the rear rubber bumper replacement tops? Thanks.

toor

Thanks man.

here are the part numbers.
15738017 left hand side
15738018 right hand
there's also the center piece, but I don't have the number for that one.