Chevy Silverado Problems

wight1

congrats on finding that pesky sucker. now maybe you can come over and help me work on the step bars! I still haven't installed the Westin plastic spacers yet, but it actually sounds a lot quieter the past couple of days.

obyone

Thanks for the info. Was looking at my right side which is all scuffed up from an incident at Pearlridge. I was thinking of replacing the entire bumper but appears this maybe more economical.

valky

You the man! Just yesterday I noticed that noise, although I didn't have time to hunt it down. On mine it was actually the parking brake cables rubbing against the brace/holder. I just shot mine with silicone spray and the noise is gone. Good job!

Conrad

artt

I have a problem that I have not seen anywhere before. My rear-end differential (3.42 locking) has a lot of backlash and almost everytime I shift (5 spd manual) It's (clutch-in, clunk, clutch-out clunk). I took it in at 500 mi and they blew me off with "leaking, cover gasket replace". Everybody I talked to said no-way, take back again! I took it back at 1100 mi and took the service director for a ride and convinced him that problem was excessive, but they bleww me off again with: contacted chevy and was told that it's "normal and no repairs should be attempted". So I called customer service and they said they will call back next week. So I have a couple of questions. 1. Has anyone else had a similar problem? 2. Has anyone had any luck in getting them to order a dealer to fix something. 3. Does everyone get the JD Power & Assoc buyer survey. I did and I feel like hammering them. Thanks in advance for any help.

obyone

Is there a reason that you continue to go to the same dealer for your warranty issue? I would have been long gone from that place as any other dealer sounds better than the one you're going to.

toor

Obyone- no problem. The cover method is much more economical than the whole bumper method.
Probably faster and easier too.

wight- get those spacers in. I really believe that it helps w/ the metal to metal contact. SHouldn't take that long.

valky-no problem. I'm glad I was able to help someone for a change. I've been getting help from everyone here.

obyone

You ordered both sides? for around $30 each? from gmpartsdirect.com? I'm having a friend price it out locally to see if it is cheaper. I remember that the cab air filter was a little cheaper. Only downside is that it takes about a week for me to get it. It gets to the dealer in two days, but due to their lack of organizational skills, takes another 3 to process it into their inventory and get it delivered.

toor

Yeah, I ordered both sides for $31 each.
JN and Cutter quoted me $51. So even w/ shipping , I saved about $25.

redsilverado

thanks for the recent info. even if mine doesn't make noise, it's something to look at. did you get the bumper parts yet?

butch23

I have an occasional no start condition. The engine turns over but won't start. After about ten to fifteen minutes of setting it will finally start. It may not happen again for a month or so but it always comes back. The dealer said that the computer was losing signal between the key and the switch. They have replaced the ignition switch but it still happens. The last time I had the truck in to them they could not duplicate the problem.
Any suggestions?

ricsch

Sounds like a Passlock problem. Have you tried just using your other key for awhile? I was told that the system reads the key, and if it's not to code, it will go into the tamper mode. I have a remote start on my truck, and it has caused this same situation.

truck96

I bought a 96 extended cab chevy truck new and have had no problems out of the engine or transmission i get 17 to 19mpg all the time. There is one problem that has concerned me is that since day 1 it has a ticking sound when you first start the engine every morning, i read that gm had too much clearnace in the bearings but like i said so far it is great, i have 56,000 miles now and i hope it will go 200,000 any one else have this problem with the vortec 350's and got high mileage with them.
Thanks
Greg

butch23

I haven't tried the extra key on an extended basis but it sound like it would be worth a try.
Thanks!

ryanbab

One last question

I was under my truck tonight (washing the shocks and checking things out)

The fluid change seems and looks very simple.

How in the heck do you fill the fluid back in rear axle? I know where you put it. The plug is horizontal.

Also did you change out the gasket?

Thanks

Ryan

redsilverado

lockers, are you using mobil 1 in the rear ends?

obyone

with and without locker.

Ryan, you can get it in two ways. Put a squeeze top on and shoot it in or use a funnel with a long tip. Another way would be to load your brother's water gun.......

wpadgett

updating transfer case fluid to autotrac II fluid 99 siverado. In the TSB I read it referred to a certain procedure. Is this anything special or just a pull plug and refill any help would be appeciated

smith53

I had a 96 silverado w/5.7 engine. I noticed my engine making this sound right after I purchased it new. Dealer said this was due to lifter leak down, but the longer I had the vehicle the louder it got. After about 40000 miles it had become a knock instead of a tick. The noise only occurred with a cold engine and only lasted a couple of seconds. The truck was totaled at 48000 so I dont know what would have happened.

tigercub1

1999 Silverado with 5.3 liter engine, 53000 kms or 30,000 miles.....

Had a regular oil change today and found about six tiny bearing rollers from a needle bearing aprox. 1/8 th inch long and about 1/32 in dia. clinging to the magnetic drain plug!

Took it in to dealer to see. The motor seems to run ok , but I do notice a slight knocking noise comming from the intake manifold. Any ideas what this might be?

Gord

randy238

Has anyone had a problem with a loud clunk coming from the rear suspension when accelerating?

themailman1

I have a 2001 Sierra 4x4 shortbed 5.3 3.73 and I have the same thing. It feels like a tooth is missing from one of the gears.

obyone

Does the suspension sound more like a slap and the gear more like a clunk?

themailman1

It sounds like, for a split second, from a dead stop, there is a slight thump.

wight1

ryan,
I'm not sure I understand your question in #964. The filler plug is on the right side of the axle housing. The gear fluid comes in a 1 quart bottle with a little nozzle on it - the bottle doesn't look like a 1 quart motor oil container, if that's what you're asking. You can hold the nozzle up to the filler plug and squeeze the fluid into the fill plug opening - I attach a short length (maybe 3") of rubber hose to the nozzle and stick it in the hole - then you can hold the bottle upside down and squeeze the bottle easier. Yes, you need to change the cover gasket - when you remove the cover, the gasket will get all torn up.

redsilverado,
My axle is standard open, non-locker. I've been using Mobil1 up until now, but just changed to Royal Purple.

ryanbab

Thanks thats exactly what i was wondering. I was thinking how in the HE11 am i going to fill this (i thought iut was like a container of motor oil)

Thanks i am alot less nervouse now

Ryan

redsilverado

thanks pal, just don't wanna put stuff in there that is gonna give me headaches. might try the kool-aid stuff.

wight1

I decided to try the Royal Purple because in researching the product datasheets on their websites, I found the RP has a much higher flash point than Mobil1. Thought it might stand up to heat a little better. Also noted the RP doesn't stink as much as most gear oils. I just turned over 24,000 miles on my truck this morning.

obyone

Wasn't as dirty as the first change...maybe cause the truck wasn't in the shop as much.....does that make any sense? hehe

valky

Anyone thinking of buying a Bully Tailgate lock, please reconsider. This is a cheap crappy item.
The locking mechanism is easy defeated and the bezel is cast wrong, can pull it out with one finger nail, not tight at all. The manufacturer stated that when the bezel is installed it is there to stay, what a joke. I threw mine in the garbage. I'll consider this a $26 lesson. Does anybody know of a quality tailgate lock? Is the power tailgate lock worth the price? Thanks.

Conrad

wpadgett

does anyone out there know if there is any special procedure to change the transfer case fluid. any info would be greatly appreciated.99 ext. cab Z71

ricobeach

Valky,

I have had one of these tailgate locks on my 2000 Silverado for about 5 months. So far it seems to work fine. No it is not made of the greatest material but it does deter someone from taking my tailgate. For $20 I only expected this lock to be a deterant. Maybe you got a defective product. Send it back and ask for a replacement or your money back.. My bezel seems fine and is not that easy to remove.

If you want to look for another brand, try looking at Pop Lock. Their version is a little more expensive but might fit your needs better. That is the only other brand that I know exists.

BTW- These locks are worth having. A friend of mine just had his tailgate stolen in broad daylight in a busy Home Depot parking lot! None of the other shoppers even questioned the thief while he unhooked the tailgate.

Rico

butch23

Well, the other key plan didn't work. In fact it is setting in my garage right now and won't start. I will go try it again in about 15 min. and it will. (I hope!) I will contact the dealer again.

skywalk22

If you look at my truck from the back the whole truck leans to the left. The right side of the truck is at least 1" higher than the left side. Has anyone seen this before?

akjbmw

Years ago I bought some StaLube (I think) gear oil in a squarish bottle with a pump and filler tube on it. If you can find one of those, the price might be worth using the oil in your beater and reusing the bottle to apply the good stuff.

valky

Thanks for the info.
Just today I met a guy that has a power tailgate lock from R&D Accessories. I checked it out and it operates really nice. The mechanism is fairly well hidden. I think I will go with this one, since I won't have to carry an extra key around and it operates with the remote keyless entry.

Valky

toor

It's been awfully quiet in here lately.
I guess that's a good thing, being that this is the "problems" board.
What's up w/ everyone?

minikin

Pop n' Lock is a good manual lock; paid $31 for mine. Also have a power lock that I've just been too lazy to install. Understand these work great.
-- Don

valky

I ordered a power lock yesterday. I'm looking forward to installing it, I love working on my truck, it gets me aquainted with every detail of the truck. I like the idea of having the tailgate lock with the other doors. I'll let you know how easy or hard the install will be.

Valky

stobar

Hey - you have the same problem as I! I just logged back on after not reviewing posts in about 4 months, but I posted this awhile back with my truck. I have a 2001 2WD 4D 5.3 V8 and the truck has the same lean, about 1" low on the left. I have had it 8 months now and am about to take it in for the fourth time. Started out having the rear leaf springs replaced - didn't fix it. Next had the front coils replaced - didn't fix it. Next they thought the rear axle was bowed - ordered a new one. When I took it back, they now say it is more than that. They said my drive shaft looked like it was sitting cockeyed (bowed to the right), and the transmission is sitting tilted to the left. This was another dealer and they refused to fix it. Just got off the phone with Chevrolet Consumer Relations and have a second file number for my case. Can anyone tell me how the vehicle buy back program works? They wouldn't even give me the name of the regional manager. I asked the Consumer Relations re if this person was some sort of a secret agent, and she informed me that he was the last step. She wants to make some calls and do more research. I'm getting a little I*I*Wed over this whole ordeal, but if they can't fix it, and it turns out to be a structural problem, I want a new truck. I'm starting to think that Chevrolet had a run on truck lean problems. Anyone else seen any posts regarding this over the last several months? Thanks.
Barry

toor

I'm back.
Got a new clunk coming from the left front suspension when driving slowly forward/backward w/ wheels turned or going over bumps.
Saw the TSB for 99s and 2000s.
I have a 2001. Could mine still need these new spring isolators?
I noticed I have some rubber around the bottom coil of the front springs. Is this the 'isolator'?

nerd

I have a 2000 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L engine. At about 9000 miles, it developed a knock (sounded like a lifter) when cold. The dealer did a GM-recommended "decarbon treatment" which did no good. The truck now has 15,000 miles and the knock is getting worse - even happens some when the engine is warm. The dealer's shop foreman told me yesterday that GM now says that many of these engines have bad pistons. He said that GM has redesigned the pistons and will install them in engines in response to customer complaints. GM customer service told me the same thing, and they have entered a case number for me. I am not too happy about having a dealer tear into the engine. I am wondering if anyone else has gotten this story.

obyone

It's back to the dealer again.

Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003
Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)

With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Correction
A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed below.

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.


From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.


From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg 1

Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation Description Labor Time
E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use published time

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

toor

Thanks for that TSB.
I'm wondering if that's it though.
I don't feel anything in the steering wheel.
But I do hear and then feel it in my left foot.
I guess it's through the floor.
Just a little clunk sound and can feel it.

witchata

I have a 2001 4 door ext.cab 2 wheel drive purchased 5/01 that has a lean that looks more like 2 or 3 inches in the rear. I have not looked under it yet but will as soon as I get a chance. I was told that some times the frames can be warped by excess tightening by the hold downs on the carrier trailers. I also have a sloppy shift from 1st to 2nd that has the dealer stumped and now my AC cooling coil is freezing up on the road at 40 mph with blower set at 2 pulling outside air. What next? Does anyone know how this unit works? In years past a freeze up could indicate a low charge condition. I was told that my compressor unit could be the type that never stops turning as long as the motor is running. Good evening to all.

chevy4me

The in tank fuel pump quit on me while stopped at a red light. The truck would not start and had to push the truck through a busy intersection. I was surprised that it wouldn't at least run enough to pull over to the side of the road. Had it towed to the dealer and a new fuel pump was covered under warranty. I understand these trucks can go a few miles without coolant, so wouldn't there be some backup for the fuel system? Anyone know anything about this?

obyone

then it would be a new problem. As far as the insulators, the indicator is a squeak in the front suspension when going over speed bumps and larger types of bumps. It makes the truck sound like it's 20 years old. You could jump up and down on the front bumper and recreate the squeak. Maybe you could do it for the clunk too.

toor

Oh great. So it's not something as simple as the insulator. Do you think it might by the balljoint? Or the spring not in place. It's definately not a squeak that I can reproduce by jumping up and down on the bumper. It's a pop from the front end.
I read this on another board.....
the 2 wheel drive trucks ( most ) that have front coil springs have a pocket built in the frame where the spring sits in. if you look at the spring youll notice the end coil is flat across, but the spring end itself has a lifted area. thats because they cant grind down the spring end to make it totally flat so they mold the frame to adjust for the bump in the spring end. Youl notice it in the lower A arm since it has one on there also. You need to make usre they are seated correctly in the spring pocket. otherwise like you said when going over bumps it will pop out and pop back in. its not hard to fix.

What do you think?

obyone

I stand corrected. Here's the tsb for the spring insulators. Wish I could post the pictures with them but somehow the pics don't come through. Anyway, looks like your first diagnoses was correct.




1999 Chevy Truck C 1500 P/U 2WD V8-325 5.3L VIN T SFI

Top - Vehicle
Technical Service Bulletins
. All Technical Service Bulletins
. . Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (New Insulator)

Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (New Insulator)

Bulletin No.:
99-03-08-002A

File In Section:
03 - Suspension

Date:
February, 2000

Subject:
Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulator)

Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra 2WD 1500 Series)

This bulletin is being revised to update Model Year and Correction information and change the part number. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-08-002 (Section 03 - Suspension).

Condition

Some owners may comment about front suspension noise. The noise may be described as a "bong" or "clunk" noise. The noise may be more noticeable when driving slowly over bumps or backing the vehicle out of a driveway.

Cause

The front coil spring contacting the frame may cause this condition.

Correction

A new front coil spring insulator has been developed to correct this condition. Install a new insulator (1) to the top of both front coil springs. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the appropriate Silverado and Sierra Service Manual for coil spring removal/installation procedures.

This new insulator replaces any existing coil spring insulators. Remove and discard the existing insulator before installing the new insulator. Use the part number listed.

Parts Information

P/N Description Oty
15756770 Insulator, Front 2
Spring

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use information shown in image.

toor

Thank you very much for that info.
I will print it out and take it w/ me next week sometime.
How long do you think the work will take.
If it's like an hour, I'm thinking I will take my truck down there and just wait for it, so nothing else 'bad' will happen to it.
Thanks.

obyone

It shouldn't take longer than a couple of hours. Then again it depends on when they actually start the work on your truck. I'd say you'd probably spend the good part of a day waiting for this one. Especially if the tech is reading the service manual while doing the job. What a thought!!