Chevy Silverado Problems

crosley4

at the site below is a picture of the drive shell also refered to as a sun shell.

The splines wear out or the whole piece that the splines are in snap off the large section of the shell.

http://www.geocities.com/crosley_az/drvshell.htm

btway.... the 700R4 , 4L60 & 4L60E have the same basic design of internal parts.

Tony

ole4

I have a '98 that experienced a similiar clunk when shifting. On Monday the car would not go into reverse but could go forward under the same conditions that you described. I have 34,000 miles and don't off-road or tow.

I am 10 months out of my warranty period but I took it into my dealer along with the record of the time I took it in to have them look for the 'clunk'.

They agreed to replace the transmission under warranty because of the low mileage. Two blazer owners at my work have had the transmission go at 53,000 and 48,000. Both had extended warranties.

gator36

FYI
Anyone going in for the new Nickel Plated yoke
TSB 01-04-17-004 The one for the 1500 series is on National Backorder
It may be available by the first of the year.

Gator

artt

The clunk could also be from the rear end, see TSB 99-04-20-002A.

abottorff

The service manager at my dealership explains the oil consumption pcv fix--- these trucks use two different kinds (brands) of lifters one shooots far more oil into the valve covers through the pushrods than the other kind so this excess oil in these trucks is sucked out through the pcv valve and burned the "fix" is a pcv valve with a much smaller hole to reduce the vacuum through the system resulting in less oil being burned--- according to him the trucks with the other brand of lifters don't have the oil problem but they (the lifters) are noisier so we either get noisy lifters or trucks that burn oil its a crapshoot because there is no way (other than dissassembling the engine) to say which lifters your truck has. I have the noise problem but my truck uses less than a quart between changes.
also the standard line both are good and don't affect engine life or performance.

Oh the hole at the bottom of the stock pcv valve is about the size of a pencil eraser and the "new" pcv valve's is about 1/4 that size to reduce the oil sucked up. hope this helps someone out.

allchevy

I have a 2001 1500hd crew cab with 2300 mi.Every time the engine passes thru 1350 to 1450 RPM on mild acceleration there is a pronounced high frequency vibration that develops in the exhaust system all the way to the tailpipe.The dealer confirmed it but told me it will "go away" when the engine is broken in??
Also both front lower control arm bushings are badly cracked (about 1/8th deep) and the dealer said new bushings would look the same??
The 6.0 liter started the cold engine knock and lifter/inject or rattling right after the 1st oil change at 500 miles.
There is some kind of a high frequency "ringing " type noise when accelerating slowly in 1st gear-they said it was the straight cut gears used in the heavy duty transmission?
The rough idle was explained by the computerized sequential fuel injection trying to compensate for the 300hp cam.
It's a nice truck but not easy to enjoy with all this going on.

hunter48

Did my first oil change on my 02 silverado 4x4 5.3 3.73 we have 3000 on the truck it is doing great no Knocks at start up, no oil consumption they all should be this good, we wouldn't need any service departments.

galady

Hello everyone: I have a 00 Silverado 1500, Ext. Cab, 5.3, 28k with the engine knock at cold start, vibration, and after shock.. Any advise?? My dealer tells me the truck can not be fixed. So what should i do now? I have called Customer Service and they talk nice, but no action. Should I trade for an 01? Or go for a buy back?
I would love the truck if I could get it fixed. Anyone know the lemon laws for Georgia?

rayt2

Regarding Georgia Lemon Law. Has GM Customer Assistance given you a file # ? if not get one. Has the dealer logged your complaints on the service ticket when you brought it in, if not he should have, you need that documentation to show you did complain about problem. Have you tried another dealer? Good luck and stick to your guns on this one, these are great trucks but the problems need to be resolved if you have them, thru perseverance you will prevail.

Ray T.

ricsch

Have you contacted the BBB (Better Business Bureau)? If GM and the dealer are unwilling to help with the problems, contact the BBB, and see how soon GM calls on you. If you were to trade, you most likely will take quite a loss and it's due to GM and THEIR problem. I had a '00 Silverado and went through the BBB and got a new '01. Keep record of any calls or contact with the dealer (Have you tried another dealer?)and the Customer Service of GM, as well as all documentation on trying to get the truck fixed, this will help in any case.

etimbers

Cindy, I just had my first (and hopefully my last)Arbitration hearing under the GA Lemon Law yesterday. If you need some help, e-mail me and I'll give you some names and phone #.

The process is pretty easy, just time consuming..

TC

jetdriver2

After 8 months and 10 visits to the shop, I have finally received my buyback check from GM.
Anyone interested in purchasing any of the following, please e-mail me at jetdriver2@hotmail.com.

Thanks,,, gary

2001 Factory Service Manual 5 vols.
Husky Floor liners, front and rear
Wet Ohkle neoprene seat covers black (for six way seats)
performance bug shield
black dash mat

no reasonable offer refused. I am in Northern California.

modvptnl

E-mail ryanbab. He LOVES to put all the goodies on his truck that he can. I heard he even has Yosemite Sam "back off" mud flaps.

Congrats, what are you going to get next???

minikin

a note from GM about a flexible link fix for the jack handle that it took me an hour to get to lower my spare tire last summer. Guess it wasn't me after all.
-- Don

rayt2

What kind of problem were you having lowering spare tire?? Mine works fine in fact just relocated the spare tire to the bed for the winter to keep the rock salt from destroying the rim.

Ray T.

smith53

when you raise the spare tire to the stowed position under the bed the tire put a bend in the plastic tube the lowering rod goes through. the next time you attempt to lower your spare the bend in tube will not allow the socket to fit over the nut.

minikin

Was having trouble getting the extension to engage the tire carrier lug. Seemed like it just wouldn't slip into place. After some light filing on the inside & outside of the extension's female socket, I got it to just barely snap into place. Spent about an hour fiddling with it. Wasn't a problem after the first time I got it to work. Got a note from GM yesterday with a reply postcard attached offering to supply a "flexible" jack extension if a problem existed. If I had to guess, I say that the tire carrier set up allowed some units to ship with enough angle/offset to keep the jack extension to slip over the lug inside the outer tube. Mine was obviously one of them. The reason I checked it in the first place was that I was heading off on a cross country trip and had read posts that cautioned to check this out before you needed it. Certainly true in my case -- 2000 SB
-- Don

xyz71

Not really on topic - bought a 2001 Tahoe 6 months ago, when I went to check the air pressure in the spare the valve stem was up, I had to crank the spare down to check. So I flipped the tire over. Latter read in the manual that valve stem should be up.

I can't see any reason for this - maybe avoid damange to stem when you take spare tire off to change a flat? But what a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].

minikin

assume it has to do with the relationship of the tire carrier hardware to the wheel offset. But I agree, what an uncalled for pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
- Don

jstockham

I have a 2000 silverado LS z71 w 21,000 miles . the local chevy dealer installed a new yoke to stop the clunking noise. but... it still clunks!! also when it shifts from 1st to 2nd. they say that all the chevys make the noise, I tested 3 used silverados and they did not make the noise, so I know I am getting bull sh--, from them. contacted chevy customer care they are looking in to it, said they have not had any problems b.s also? any one with same problems? the dealer also changed the oil in the transfer case a few months ago ,did not help. the noise is getting louder. any help would be very helpful!! Jake

ryanbab

i have the clunk from 1st to 2nd but not drive to reverse. I havent got the new slip yoke yet (been to lazy to take it in). It has been getting a little louder (possibly from the weather getting colder?). I did have the tase fluid changed to the blue goo and that did help for awhile

Ryan

ryanbab

oh yea mines a 2000 Z71 with 22,500 miles

gator36

You were aboe to get the new slip yoke?
I went in for mine and found ou that it is on
national backorder. My 01 does not have a clunk from 1st to 2nd just on take off and stopping.
Good luck

Walter

gene593

Does anyone know where the cabin air filter is in a '00 LS ext cab with bucket seats? I can't find it anywhere. I have 20K miles and I know it needs to be changed.

jstockham

dealer ordered yoke in early November, hope that is the right one. talked to customer care they said there is another fix in the works??? stated that they would cover problem even when warranty is up, since the problem has been documented. thanks for the input... Jake!!

ryanbab

check out

http://www.picturetrail.com/bco

for pics on the cabin air filter

They are in the maintenance section i believe

Ryan

gene593

Thank you very much for all of the information.

You guys make this a great site. I've been following this site since Feb. 2000, before I even brought my truck and the info has been very helpful.

Thanks again.
Gene

dukeofchurchil

I have a pickup I purchased new. With the small V8. I now have 90,000 miles on it. I have had these repairs over normal maintance.

3/8/99 Alternator 44805 mi $431.35
7/06/99 Rear Seal and front brake pads 51167 $459.88
4/27/01 A/C leak and Delay Module 80420 $186.13
5/18/01 A/C leak not caught the 1st time 81780 $182.88
6/19/01 Water Pump 83058 $249.78
8/20/01 Alternator (again) 85447 $345.15
9/18/01 Fuel Pump 86765 $377.52
12/7/01 Loose Connection to power circuit 89956 $65.00

Total $2297.69

Is this normal for a Chevy Pickup? Since a number of repairs came after 80,000 does this indicate that the frequency of repairs will continue to increase? If so why would one buy a second one?
What experience do y'all have with "The longest lasting truck on the Road"?

Russell

minikin

2 alternators by 90K miles, no, no, no & expensive; Front brakes at 51K, yes -- @ $450 too expensive & there shouldn't have been a rear seal leak; A/c, yeah, I'll go along with that, but why'd you pay them twice for the same work?; fuel pump -- well they do die, but I think you could have probably fixed yourself for $50-$100; oh yeah, and the water pump -- I'll buy an 80K mi replacement, but that's another one of those things you could have fixed youself for 1/3 or less of dealer price, or had your local independent do for 2/3 the cost.
-- Personally, other than oil changes, tires, brake pads, and a belt or two I don't think anything built today should have any problem getting to 100K miles without unexpected service issues.
Shorter answer -- $500 to $750 maybe; $2500 was too much.
-- Don

js31

I'm sure this has been discussed. I recently bought a 2001 Silverado ext cab with the 5.3 engine. I love the truck! However, I've recently noticed scary blue smoke after startup. The truck has 18k miles. The dealer changed the seals with no results. They have also ordered a new pcv valve which is not in yet. Will this work? Could the smoke be evidence of a huge problem on this semi-new truck? Also, in an un-related question, the truck came with a hitch that I notice on many other Silverados. Does anyone have the details on this "factory" hitch? Capacity, tongue weight, etc...I appreciate the info!

dukeofchurchil

What bothers me is the two alternators and a delay module. The a/c leak was only paid for once. But I've never had an alternator go out ever. I know it happens. But these A/C Delco seem to go bad at 40K. A bit soon. I'm also bothered by the number of repairs around 80 to 90k . How long should this truck be good. I hear people say 150 to 200k. Is this legitimate? And how much repair work would be expected?

Russell

txyank1

a '96 had to have the fuel pump replaced. It usually happened while still under warranty.

jetdriver2

In response to my previous post about my buyback, I just purchase a Ford F250 powerstroke with my refund. I have only put 500 miles on it but if that is any indication, this will be a great truck.
If any of you are thinking about buyback, I was able to get mine done through the "area service manager" for the area in which the truck was purchased. I think this is the same guy who oversees the service departments. I was actually shocked that he agreed without too much prodding on my part.
In any case, the part that hurts is they divide your current mileage into 100,000 to come up with a percentage value to take off from what you paid for the truck. e.g, I had 14000 miles which equates to a 14% deduction from the very top line of the sales contract (base price). This formula tells you that a vehicle is absolutely worthless at 100,000 miles in GM's eyes. This is absolutely ridiculous but it is the way they do it. So if you are seriously considering buy back, get the truck in as soon as possible or stop driving it. They will "freeze" the mileage at some point though.
I tried everything to convince myself to keep the truck but the final straw was an engine leak. Then i saw a guy at the gas station with a Duramax and he said he was on this 2nd Allison tranny already and I felt like I did the right thing. Now that I have the Ford, I am very happy.
Anyway, I wish you all luck regardless of your decision. This is a very expensive purchase to have to be frustrated about.
regards,, gary

minikin

of mine has over 250K miles on his '91(?) 350 4x4 and refuses to give it up. Uses it to commute about 50 miles each way daily; as well hauling everything under the sun when he built his last house. Couple of years back he went through some alternator and electrical system problems, but other than that it just runs. (Except for having to have the front axle replaced after he ran it dry which he quite readily admitted was his own damn fault).
-- Don

jasonpeterclar

I noticed that my 01 LS ext cab 2wd sits a little cocked on flat ground, I checked the bed, empty, the fuel tank was near empty so that shouldn't effect ride height. Then I measured wheel center to fender lip and got about a 2 inch difference with the passenger side rear higher than the driver side.
Anyone have this problem on their 1/2 ton?
I may have overloaded it a bit with logs, it was down on the stops, but not compressing them fully.
I thought about getting air bag load levellers to help out a little.
Maybe should have got a 3/4

artt

If you put "lean" in Board Search, you should get 20 messages including this post...

Chevy leaning to the left by skywalk22 Jul 10, 2001 (05:29 am)
If you look at my truck from the back the whole truck leans to the left. The right side of the truck is at least 1" higher than the left side. Has anyone seen this before?

My 01 1500 RC LB also leans left.
I've looked around for several months and noticed that on flat ground no Silverado or Sierra ever leans right, a few leaned left but most were level!
I have not seen any TSBs.

mannwi

Hi,

I have a 2000 5.3 2wd ext.cab 1500. It gets used for towing and is two years and 34,000 miles old. It has been good, but I plan to go to dealer soon about three problems. Any guidance from others would be appreciated. The problems happen when not towing, but the muffler thing happens anytime:

1. The muffler makes "oil can noise." When cooling down and now when getting hot it makes a popping sound as the partitions inside the muffler flex one way or the other. Eventually this breaks loose the spot welds.

2. The hydraulic lifters have been slow to pump up as the weather gets cooler (Wisconsin), and now one or several lifters are noisy for several minutes. It has fresh Mobil 1, and always has Mobil 1 in it.

3. The limited slip clanks when one wheel starts to spin. The clank is so strong it makes you back off the throttle. On a uphill grassy surface the thing just clanks from one wheel to the other, and the limited slip is worse than not having it.

Any experience of others would be appreciated,

MannWi

ryanbab

let me know what they say about

The limited slip clanks when one wheel starts to spin

i also have that from time to time. Do you have one of those whatchamacallits in your hitch reciever that holds the ball? I thought the clank could have been that so i took it out. Hasnt done it yet

rayt2

http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/2000/index.html

This will give you all you need to know to take to the dealer as an informed owner.

Happy New Year........to all

Ray T.

mannwi

Ryan,

I remember you from when I bought the truck, anyhow, the differential clunk has nothing to do with a hitch. I tried it today with one wheel on dry pavement and one in snow, and it is a little offensive......a lot worse on slippery grass.

Ray,

That site was interesting, thanks. It was interesting to read about the difficult to close in cold rear door thing. I've had that problem, just figured there was nothing to be gained from complaining. Too bad there was nothing about the specific problems I have.

Mann

ramtx1

Just took my truck to the dealer about the noise that sounds like a wheel bearing going bad. He said that it was my tires and they needed rotated and the front end needed reset. Anyone else had this problem? Have other problems but they are taking care of these, to many to list here. Thanks

ottersden1

I have a 2000 2500. In the process of installing a remote start in the vehicle. However, even after configuring the ohm's and such to bypass the key chip- the factory alarm keeps over-riding the system. Does anyone have any ideas how to bypass the factory alarm or disable it? This was a christmas present gone bad- Local chevy dealer says it's impossible- We don't believe it. Please advise! Thanks.

sonjaab

Most new GM trucks require that module
to make everything work correctly !
not all alarms or remote starts furnish
it with kit......I Been there........
www.commandoalarms.com
25 bucks for Gm factory alarm by pass
module....(It is not a genuine GM part)....or
www.vehiclesecurity.com
Try a stereo store that installs them these
new GMs are tricky !.............Geo

jxyoung

My wife drove up yesterday and said there was noise coming from the truck(1999 Silverado Z-71).
Went to it and found the ABS unit under the truck making a loud noise even when the truck is not running and key is not in ignition. My uncle has had this fail on his truck (also a 1999 Silverado Z-71) a couple months ago and they want $1200 to replace the module. My truck has 48,000 miles on it and his has about 75,000. He has looked into it and says these ABS units are failing left and right. Any one else had this experience?

I had to unplug the power to the unit so it will not run down the battery and will plug it back in to go to the dealer after the holidays. Meanwhile it sits.

minikin

only the second time I've heard of this one; ABS failing on.
-- Don

ak4x4

Greetings to all. I am the proud owner of a 2001 SWB 1500 EXT CAB base model 4X4. Truck at time of accident had 3,600 miles on it. Here is my story so other owners can watch for this problem and act accordingly.

I live in Anchorage, Alaska and was just out for a drive. Took a wrong turn and wound up having to get on two highways to get back to where I started. Now whether a tourist in Anchorage or a local you will most likely have to go the way that I was to get anywhere. International Airport Road will merge into Minnesota Dr Via a on/Off ramp. The on/off ramp is very twisty so no speed can be had off it. As I was merging on the end of the on ramp(Straight part) To get on Minnesota Dr I was in 4x4 High and going about 25 MPH. The rear wheels hit black ice. I don't know how I lost control at that speed going that fast but It put me in a 180 degree spin that wound me up in a snow bank. The truck almost rolled. If it was not for the bank it would have. I wound up tipped on my side before it came back down again on all 4 wheels. To my surprise damage was minimal. The passenger door and the 4th door were damaged. That is the extent of it. My concerns are the suspension, allignment, and underpinnings of te truck. Truck had to be pulled out due to the fact that I was centered and in about 6 fet of snow(Up to the 4x4 sticker of the truck). efore the accident the ABS light never went on during start up now after the collision it is. Is there any owners out there that can help with the issue or that have been in similar accidents? I just don't want "Geico" the cheapest company I have seen to rip me off. Any safety issues or facts would be great if you have em or have encountered them. And would a "New outer shell" for the doors. Be suffecient for a brand new truck? I am itching for new doors do u think that can happen? After tomorrow I should know more. Pictures can be sent to those who would like to see.

Thanks.

mike369

I have been reading the posts and those regarding engine knock at start up caught my attention. I currently own a 2001 6.0 liter 1500HD with the knock condition at start up as well as several other problems. This is the second Chevrolet truck I have purchased in the last 9 months. The first was a 2000, C3500 with a 454 and more problems with it than I care to mention. The dealer even had it more than I did. At the advice of the service manager where it was purchased I hired a lawyer and filed a claim under CA lemon law. The 2000 was repurchased but after a month with no tow vehicle I decided to give Chevrolet a second chance with the 1500HD. I figured that the chances of getting a second truck with problems were nonexistent. But I was wrong. The 6.0 engine began knocking at start up at with about 9000 miles on the odometer. I have been told by the dealer that the knock problem will not affect the longevity of the motor (as stated in the service bulletin) but how can this be? If the moving piston "wobbles" as it cycles then there will be a certain amount of wear and eventual failure or at minimum, decreased engine life. I have had the engine decarboned 4 times in the last 4 months yet the condition remains. I contacted GM customer Service at the onset regarding the knock AND they extended my warranty to 75000 miles (for the entire powertrain) on the first phone call. They maintain that there is no fix for the knock and that it is not detrimental to my engine but I am still skeptical since they were so quick to extend my warranty. I am considering contacting an attorney to find out what my options are. Has anyone else gone down this road due to this condition?
Michael

obyone

Do a web search for engine oil analysis and have one done on your motor oil. Will cost around $20 which I believe is cheap for peace of mind.

erikheiker

I also live in Anchorage and I know that with the temp cycling back and forth through the freezing point it has been a bit treacherous. Having grown up here I'm used to that breaking traction feeling and I just ease up on the gas. My truck has been in AutoTrac mode most of this winter and I've not had any problems. Were you west bound and making the 270º loop to go southbound? I never have felt totally comfortable with that turn in the winter. I think it needs to be banked even more. Good luck with Geico. They tried to get me to switch over even though they were higher priced than most others. I'm with USAA and I've always heard good things about them. Hope I never have to find out for myself!

jumpmaster82

The exhaust pipe out of the engine rusted through on my Dodge. I thought I saw some links to info regarding consumer protection. My neighbor told me that he thought exhaust systems had to be warrantied longer because of environmental concerns... anyone know anything? BTW, I also own a '00 LT Z71... Thanks! BJB