Chevy Silverado Problems

erikheiker

One of the factors in your accident may have been the fact that you had the truck in 4H. With the front and rear axles mechanically locked, there is always some slippage occurring due to turns, slight differences in tire diameter, etc. That slippage may have caused you to break what little traction you had and the rest is history. I don't know why you didn't want AutoTrac, but it is perfect for Anchorage winters, and there is no slippage going on when you are coasting. In a few years all trucks will have something like it. It is just that good.

mike38

99 Z/71 5.3 engine knock and vibration at 65mph.

The latest annoying problem is the sound that you describe. At about 55mph to 65 a loud growl or as you said the sound of a bad bearing is really loud. A slight buzz vibration is felt from the steering wheel. The sound could be mistaken for tires but I changed tires, this is not the problem. I have a warranty appointment next week. The noise started after I used 4 low and 4 high while going off road.
Have you fixed your front end bearing noise on your truck ?

txyank1

emissions related had to be covered for 50K miles. Don't know if it falls into that category or not. In the past I've had things fixed that an obliging Dealer covered that way. I don't even remember what it was but I do remember it was a "loose" interpretation.

losangelesemt

My roomate just bought a 95 Silverado 1500 ext cab, and is wondering if anyone in here may know of any recalls for that year and model as well as any other important info regarding mechanical probs. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

ak4x4

Yeah It did happen as you said, but at that speed I don't understand why it reacted like that! Also I am a big belver that the more gadgets you have the more problems. I opted not to get the autotrac because it is just another gadget. Plus I like my little floor shifter. But I do think you're right on the future. Take a look at the 2002 Sierra Denali. Rear steering and 4x4. Sorta like an AWD system a 4x4 and a 4 wheel steer system. Neat. But for 40+K it's alot. Also where I slipped was not on the turn itself. but on the straight part merging onto Minn. It was level ground. But When anyone hits Black ice nothing can help them even their thoudand dollar studs!!

obyone

http://www.alldata.com/TSB/9511_mo.html

losangelesemt

Thanks for the help. Also wondering what the deal is with the brakes on the Silverados. I know I've heard other people commenting on them. This truck shakes pretty good under braking and past owner was saying that he was going through brakes 2-3 times a year. Im guessing the brakes were an issue with many Silverado owners ?? You know anything further ??

quadrunner500

The GM trucks used drum rear brakes (like Tundra now) through the '98 model year, before going to 4 wheel disc since '99 in all full size trucks. The brakes were a source of complaint, but noted more for dead pedal feel and fast wear, than the shaking problem noted on Tundras.

losangelesemt

So the braking probs. were due to design then. Was there ever a fix for any of the problems , or its just the way the trucks are and thats that ?? I know some of the Tundra guys were having probs with the brakes, and I know many of them took them to dealership and had rotors replaced or whatever they did. Just wondering if GM did the same for its trucks like the Silverado. I havent had the privelage of owning any GM trucks yet and didnt know if the brakes were ever addressed by dealers and/or GM.

quadrunner500

A little of both. G.M. always does something to try and satisfy the customer. But in the case of 88-98 CK's, some just lived with it and that's that, others demanded more. How much improvement you could expect from whatever they offered, is a matter of opinion. There was only so much that could be done within the constraints of the design, replaced rotors and pads, etc. They were still as good as any from the same era.

losangelesemt

Thanks for info. , curious how your new Silverado is in overall performance/quality from the older Rados.

obyone

for about $3295 replacing rotors, pads, and calipers.

Another option:

Would be to just replace the rotor and pads with aftermarket part nos. 3756 and 3757 at a cost of about $250.00

http://www.performanceproducts.com/

quadrunner500

To be fair, the question should be how good is the new truck, compared to the old truck when IT was new?

And it's hard to be objective. I've had this 2500HD Duramax for 8 months, and loved every minute. So far, it's been perfect. No issues whatsoever for me. But I went from a 1/2 ton with gas engine and automatic, to a 3/4 ton with diesel and 6 spd manual. Completely different character. But what I like most, the new truck has SOUL. By comparison, the old one did everything well, but lacked inspiration.

http://vsdrives.com/graphics/2035002.jpg

A friend of mine, (a pretty tough customer) just traded his 97 Sierra for a 2002. His comments to me, were that 90% he liked better, 10% he liked not as well. Of the 10%, he doesn't like daytime running lamps. He said the new 5.3L engine is ultimately more powerful, but less torquey than the 5.7L. He thinks his fuel economy is no better. Beyond that, I'd be happy to give you his phone number or email. His new truck is nearly a carbon copy of his old one, white, extended cab SLE.

losangelesemt

Oby / Quad , appreciate the help. My roomates thinking of getting into a new Rado. Hes an old retired sheriff sargeant and pretty stuck in his way about staying with Chevy. He used to have older Toyota truck which he liked, so he's 50/50 right now. Ok, back to the "foreign" village to see if anyone's makin any sense, doubt it ...

vrkahlich

I own a 2001 Chevrolet 1500 V6 manual with almost 5,000 miles. Last night while driving home I noticed that shifting from 2-3, 3-4, and from 4-5 the engine speed increases by 400-500 RPMs when the clutch is pressed to change gears. I thought it was my driving, so I had my dad drive it and it he seemed to think it was 'flaring' between gear changes while the clutch is down. I think it is normal for the engine to increase speed some while shifting, but not loud enough to be heard over a loud radio. I also completely let go of the gas pedal during the shifting. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

mledtje

It depends on how much throttle you use. The engine has something that slows the throttle return for 4-5 seconds after you release the throttle. It feels like a dashpot on the throttle return. Might be one. With light throttle and minimal acceleration, I don't notice the throttle being held open when I let up on the throttle.

If I have a fair amount of throttle when I let up, and just slow down, I can feel the engine return to idle in about 4-5 seconds. Almost feels like the brakes were applied.

Tonite, on the way home, I will try heavier throttle and see if the engine speeds up when I let off the gas and push in the clutch and release the load.

Mike L

abc246

When you let off the gas to shift the throttle plate closes fast causing a "rich" condition. To prevent this, most manufactures use a dashpot or the idle control to keep the RPMs up. I hate this feature too. On my last Toyota truck I removed the dashpot and it was normal. I think the Silverado does this in software using the idle control and you are most likely stuck with it. One thing that reduces this effect is to shift at higher RPMs.

chad1964

I have a 2001 1500HD crewcab and my question is: When I press the recirculation(recirc) button on the dash the A/C comes on.?.? I've read the manual and it says nothing about that button turning on the A/C. In order to turn on the A/C you push the A/C button. duh. I do not have the climate control feature. I've compared this to my friends 2002 2500HD crewcab and his is the same way. However his 1995 Chevy functions normally, outside air button pulls outside air, recirc button pulls inside air and A/C button turns A/C on. Both times I've had the truck at the dealer they said the system is functioning normally. Also, the recirc door does not seem to be closing all the way because it is still pulling in some outside air. Does everyone elses 2001 and newer trucks function this way. I'm getting close to just putting a toggle switch on the A/C unit. I understand how to maximize your A/C efficiency and how the system prevents window fogging but this doesn't make sense.

mledtje

That is a wonderful feature of the newer trucks. My 99 Silverado does not do it. My friends '00 Silverado does not do it. My late '00 does it.

The only thing the manual says about it is "Turn on ReCirc to eliminate outside odors". Do that, and a mile down the road you are wondering why you are cold! I've always used recirc for maximum heat on cold days - not anymore!

I don't have a clue as to why they would do that.

Mike L

obyone

15% fresh air is allowed in the cabin. Not sure why but my best guess is so that one doesn't suffer from oxygen deprivation. Course that's only a guess....

chr1s

If you live in an area where it actaully gets cold, you've no doubt witnessed some poor sap drving around with their windows fogged up on the inside - even though they have a new car with A/C. Yeah, the car *may* warm up a bit quicker with recirc, but you've got to turn it off to prevent the windows from fogging. No doubt there are others leaving the recirc on and then using as much heat as it takes to burn the moisture off the windows. If only they'd just held their breath.. Or, just turn the A/C on! Yes, the A/C will work to remove moisture in winter too! We have autos dumbed down with auto headlamps, and now auto anti-recirc! Hee haw!

gator36

In response to Chris...
The 2001 and newer willnot allow you to recirculate with the vent selector in in any of the defog modes.

From what I have learned is that all 2001 and newer
models are apparently doing this. There is a GM
field engineer that is trying to get an answer from
GM regarding this new "Feature" I too have been
given the line that it is normal and that the
new A/C compressors are soo efficient that turning
off the compressor is not necessary and saves on
the life of the compressor.

When I know more I will definately post it here.

mledtje

When you select about the last 6 clicks on defrost, the system automatically turns on the AC. The AC will take the moisture out of the air and make defrost/defog more effective. I don't have a problem with that.

And I understand why the system would turn off recirc when you select strong defrost. It is hard to defrost/defog when you keep circulating the same moist air. No problem with that either.

I still don't understand why selecting recirc turns on the AC. I use recirc to keep unpleasant odors our of the cab. And then a mile or so down the road I get cold. Makes no sense

Mike L

ndahi12

When you select defrost in the 2002 Tundra the recirc light shuts off and the AC kicks in. My brother's 2002 SE-R Spec V does the same thing. It seems that is the new thing in cars these days.

abc246

re "I still don't understand why selecting recirc turns on the AC. I use recirc to keep unpleasant odors our of the cab. And then a mile or so down the road I get cold. Makes no sense."

They turn on the A/C to prevent the windows from fogging up. I don't like it either.

chad1964

Thanks! Toggle switch it is.
Isn't technology wonderful (dashpot, recirc - A/C, 15% fresh air so you don't suffer from oxygen deprivation, auto headlamps). I just wish they would give you a choice on this stuff. If you don't
want this feature they reprogram or flip a switch under the dash. 30K+ for a vehicle that has these little annoying features. What's next - little sensors on the steering wheel that make sure you keep both hands on the wheel and if you don't, an alarm starts going off (one similiar to your seat belt).

mledtje

That might make sense if I was using the heater to stay warm, but normally I just have the vents on letting air flow through.

Previous vehicles never caused the windows to fog up when I used recirc.

And if the windows start to fog, I'll switch to defrost and then the AC can come on.

It is an irritant. Certainly not enough to get rid of the truck, but an irritant none the less.

Mike L

eric2001

The defrost has always turned on (GM vehicles equipped with A/C) the air conditioner to help defog the windows. Ford also does the same thing.

Every GM and Ford product I have owned since the '80s has done this. This is nothing new, but the recirc - A/C is.

BTW my auto climate control doesn't work any better. I want to know why when I have the temp @ 66 and the vents open, heat pours out. When I lock out (full cold) the temp selector only then will it act like vents.

And why can't I select fresh air for all the settings? only on the floor or floor mix can I select fresh air...

michgndr

Here's one, folks.

'01 ECab 'rado 5.3L. Lately I've noticed a kind of weak broken hissing sound emanating from the driver's lower rear left when I'm accelerating. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm maintaining constant speed. Easiest to hear when accelerating in the 25-40 mph range. Simultaeously, mileage for the last three tanks has dropped to 14.5 from about 15.5 under similar use.

Thoughts?

txyank1

the other morning coming to work i started hearing a noise. sounded like a weak motorcycle exhaust kind of noise so i'm looking all round me...nothing. I speed up, slow down, turn the radio off just can't figure it out. then i speed up again and it seems to get louder. then i cought up the with the noise .........waaaay up ahead was a rice burner with one of those 5 inch tin can mufflers! had me baffled for a few miles.

ryanbab

i need to find a link to how you can fix that. The noise is just something from under the truck making its way through and up where the steering shaft enters the truck. I had a long discussion about it with this one guy.

This has no bearing on your mpg going down. (this happens in the winter different gas to cut down pollution)

Later today ill find the info

Email me so i dont forget ok

obyone

Is this the one you're looking for old senile young man?

HTTP://Web.Triton.net/p/prim/truckpix/

michgndr

This noise just started maybe two weeks ago. I'll keep listening though. Tested it at lunch time. If I surge the accelerator, I get the noise. If I hold steady, nothing.

ryanbab

yea from BOB i lost all my websites (bookmarks) when i lost my cable (excite)and that was one of them

THanks

jlflemmons

I notice that once you move the temp control out of the blue and into the first, thin line, of red I get LOTS of heat. I am constantly moving the control from the blue to the minimum red to keep the cab from getting too hot.

chevy4me

My 99 has the problem again and I can't get the crackeregg site anymore for the TSB. I would like to go into the dealer with the TSB in hand since it calls for replcement not just cleaning. Is there anywhere to find it?

obyone

Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort Required

File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-007A

Date: June, 2000

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort
(Replace Throttle Body)

Models:
1999-20O0 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)

This bulletin is being revised to add additional part numbers and clarify labor operations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-007
(Section 06- Engine controls).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.

Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.

Correction

Notice DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced idle Air Control valve durability.

1. Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
2. Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange. The Julian date code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge,on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification.

3. If the Date Code is 2979, or earlier:

^ Replace the Throttle Body Assembly using appropriate Service Manual procedure.
^ DO NOT clean the Throttle Body Assembly.
^ DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Assemblies.

Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.

lauriet1

When I push mine, it just blinks a few times, never stays on?

ricsch

Check your owner's manual regarding these controls. I recall that in some situations, the indicator light will flash, until a certain temp. is reached, then it will remain on?

lauriet1

I will certainly do that as soon as I get one. The truck has a French manual, dealer (used) has promised me an English Version. Manual has arrived at dealership where ordered, just waiting for the user dealer to go pay the bill for it so I can pick it up.

professor4

Or that of one or more of your esteemed colleagues. I have a 2000 Silverado, 5.3, 4wd. Several months ago, I posted that the truck had an electrical leak. (Boy, was that a mistake, because I got all kinds of leak jokes.) This time, I'll call it an electrical drain. In short, the battery occasionally is dead without any warning. The dealer has fooled (the operative word) with the truck off and on for a total of 9 days in the past 3 months. Replacing the battery solved the problem for about 2 months, but it reared its ugly head again this past Monday.

Thoughts, suggestions, comments?

Postscript: I am glad to see that you survived the Tundra diatribe.

cod2

I have a 1999 Silverado. Does someone have the full text of the TSB for the rattling cupholder?

99-08-49-003 Mar 99 Instrument Panel Cupholder Rattle

Thanks in Advance,

Cod2

obyone

Do you have Onstar? Power seats? malfunctioning exterior or interior lights?

obyone

Instrument Panel Cupholder Rattle

File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 99-08-49-003

Date: March, 1999

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Instrument Panel Cupholder Rattle
(Replace Cupholder)

Models:
1999 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Models

Condition
Some owners may comment about a rattle noise coming from the cupholder area of the instrument panel (IP).

Correction
A new cupholder has been developed to correct the condition. Replace the cupholder on affected vehicles. Use the appropriate part number listed below. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console in the 1999 Silverado and Sierra Service Information for cupholder replacement procedures.

Parts Information

P/N Description Qty

15045392 Cupholder Asm., 1
IP (Graphite)

15045393 Cupholder Asm., 1
IP (Blue)

15045394 Cupholder Asm., 1
IP (Beige)

15045397 Cupholder Asm., 1
IP (Pewter)

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor 0peration Description Labor Time
Cupholder, Use published
C2085 Instrument Panel labor
- R&R or Replace operation time

professor4

No to Onstar and power seats. To my knowledge, all lights are functioning properly. GM has had some problems with (I think) what they call a "body module". In turn, again from memory, I think this affects (controls ?) some or all the lights. This was replaced on the truck, to no avail. I am reasonably confident in the technician's ability and concern, but all this is getting me no where. He has talked with GM's technical assistance folks.

Thanks for the response, and any additional comments/suggestions will be appreciated.

eric2001

I was reading it this morning and I can't seem to find the thread discussing this.

They mentioned the driver door switch/pin. The factory pin was broken internally (not visible) and was causing the battery drain intermittenly.

Maybe worth a look?
-Eric

dch0300

When I've had the pleasure of troubleshooting vehicles with electrical drains on the battery here is how I found the problem.
Make sure everything is off in the vehicle.
Open the hood and shut off the hood light by removing it.
Remove the ground cable from the battery.
Put an ammeter in series between the battery "-" and the ground cable that you removed.
Make sure to start your ammeter at the highest setting and reduce the setting until your ammeter shows a current draw.
If my memory serves me correctly "normal" should be less than 50m amps.
If you get anything higher than that then go to your vehicles fuse box and start removing fuses one at a time until you find the one that causes the ammeter reading to drop below 50m amps.
If that fuse goes to several items, well at least you have narrowed it down.

professor4

Thanks for your responses. I might not have time to try all this until next week, but rest assured I will try. And, I'll give you some feedback.

sonjaab

I had the fantom lights and dead battery
in my Caddy. Dealer tried everything.
modules,delay thingy, etc.
Turned out to be the plunger in the door
jamb (a piller). Replaced plastic ones
with updated steel ones !Prob solved !
Note some newer GMs have them in the door
handles..........Geo

BTW: I posted this in the Rado topic
for SF who is having these probs. with
his 97 Tahoe

countryboy1

Just wondering if anyone else is having problems with vibration at 1100 rpms and if so can u tell me what the problem is. I have a 2000 4 door clubcab silverado v6, 1500, 2wheel drive. Noise has been happening since new july of 2000. Have been telling dealers mechanics on every oil change. Was originally adivised that GM was aware of the vibration and that their engineers have been working on it. Have had no cooperation with dealers mechanics as of yet. Please help if u can.