Chevrolet Impala Transmission Problems
gchecksfield
Member Posts: 36
Nosirrahg thanks for Post 910. I was lazy and did not check earlier posts. Turns out the problem on mine is intermittent. Right now running fine. I went to a reputable independent shop. He said the Impala has had problems with the pressure control module. He also said without a check engine light and no symptoms he would not recommend doing anything. Did you get a check engine light? I went to a Chev dealer. The Service Tech said that there were no such problems with the Impala transmission. If anyone knows the number of the technical bulletin I would like to take it to the dealer. Thanks.
See Also: Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement Impala SS
See Also: Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement Impala SS
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thanks
It really only acted up that one afternoon, but it was severe enough that even though it seemed fine the next day when I took it in, I wanted to get it attended to before it got worse. As I think I mentioned before, I'd noticed some hesitation at times on slight upgrades for several months prior to that, and thus far that also seems to have been corrected by this fix.
Good luck!!
The vibration starts at 55 and is at its worst at 65. Its really bad if I am going 65 or 70 on the highway and suddenly take my foot off the gas without hitting the brake. You can actually look at the steering wheel and see it vibrating. Everything in the car shakes (rearview mirror, passenger seat, etc).
This is getting very annoying and I'm actually concerned that all the vibration is going to wear out parts in the front end prematurely if it continues.
Any suggestions or comments?
My beretta did the same thing at approximetely the same speeds. although it wasnt too bad and i just drove thru it. also, it wouldnt do if decellerating. i would have them check alignment eventho it supposely isnt required on these cars.
Could it be a problem with the throttle position sensor?
Charlie
Freaking amazing...
I have been jumping from topic to topic on here trying to locate discussions that sound like issues i am having with my 03 Imp.
My car has begun to do the hesitation, and i was informed that it could 1. need a flush, or 2.be that sensor.. we opted for the flush, though it is still doing the same thing between 2nd and 3rd at speratic times.
NOW.. took it to go get oil changed, and apparently there is some sort of debris in the tranny fluid?!!
are you aware of issues commonly happening with the transmission, or things of that nature? freaking out a little, i really like my Imp.. now just not sure where to start with what. I think i went from one issue of the sensor, to a new one.
any advice or exper. you could share would be great.
Mk.
Someone wrote that it is not worth paying a dealer $130.00 for an injector/intake flush and to use some after market crap. WRONG,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
The reason my converter and performance is still excellent is because I have the flush done every 30,000 miles. Chevy is not the only company, Chrysler products require the same maintenance. The differences in performance and gas mileage after cleaning the carbon build up is very noticeable.
This leaves more than half of the old fluid in the torque converter and tranny. Doing a power flush takes out all the fluid and all the debris. It is more expensive but more efficient.
If you are having the power flush done and you have this problem. There is a module in the transmission that needs to be changed that sometimes is affected by the power flush.
The newer cars should not be taken care of by the old rules of maintenance. There is just too much electronics and new types of valves that make up the newer cars since 2000 that just don’t apply to the old rules.
If your die hard Daddy that worked on cars in the 70's or 80's is telling you how to service a 2000 and beyond vehicle, fire him..............
Humans cannot create something without a repercussion, we are that imperfect..!!
If the emission devices control pollution, then something else suffers. Today’s engines build up carbon because it contains the emissions with in the system.
An emissions flush does your engine a world of good.
I have experienced this on many makes of cars.
Also by rear turn signals have both stopped working. I was told I needed to purchase a turn signal switch priced at $300 and the labor to install is $450. Would replacing the steering column be a good fix for this problem?
Most of the prices you quoted are a joke. There is no need to spend that kind of money. The labor is outrageous. This can't be a GM dealer.
For GM parts quotes and a live database and very competitive parts prices, go to http://www.rockauto.com
For example, the Pressure Solenoid is ONLY $31.79. Your dealer would hopefully match that price to get your business and, if not, then dump him. Moreover, the solenoid is electronically activated and is therefore located in the side transfer case of the transmission which is facing the left wheel on the driver's side. What is so common on the GM transmissions is that the solenoids leak over time and fail to function either because of the leak or because fluid leaks from the transmission into the dry transfer case where the electrical connections become shorted and thus require the replacement of the solenoid.
NOTE:
AC Delco PN#10478146 $31.79 Valve, Pressure, Solenoid
A transfer case gasket much be purchased as well(http://search.ebay.com/shop-service-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-impala_W0QQcat- - - refZC5QQfclZ2QQfromZR7QQfrppZ200QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQ- - - satitleZQ28shopQ2cserviceQ29Q20Q282000Q2c2001Q2c2002Q2c2003Q2c2004Q2c2005Q29Q20i- - - mpalaQQsofocusZbs
In the event that you must have a NEW service manual for your GM car, then go to http://www.helm-inc.com
Does the vibration occur when you're just driving around, or only at certain times (like during braking)? It's not uncommon for rotors to warp, especially if the wheels aren't torqued properly...so if the problem only occurs during braking, that might be the problem.
If it happens when driving, could be out of balance, or a problem with the tire (as well as a bent wheel). I'd have somebody else check that wheel, and then go from there.
I know it's a huge pain in the butt, but to isolate the problem, you really should put everything back to how they started, then rotate ONE SIDE front to back and back to front. Note change. Rotate the other side, front to back and back to front. Note change. This will be the way to isolate the exact corner.
If you are like most people and way too busy to experiment yourself, time for a second opinion. Get someone else to look.
thanks
At first I started to suggest you change your fuel filter, which might explain some sluggishness when you first pull out, but I don't know if that'd impact shifts when you were up to speed or not. I do know I've changed my fuel filter at least a couple of times in the 100k miles I've had it; whenever I've felt the car was starting to suffer performance-wise I found changing the fuel filter seemed to solve the problem. I also had a problem early on with a clogged fuel injector, and got into the habit of running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it every time I change the oil, and that seems to make a world of difference.
I was admittedly hesitant to buy a "first year" car, but I felt the drivetrain (3.8l V6) was bulletproof, so I felt comfortable with the purchase. However, I really enjoyed being one of the "first on the block" with a 2000 Impala, and I like the fact that the car is 8 years old and still looks current. I was probably most disappointed with the intake manifold problem, simply because I assumed I'd have no drivetrain issues, and sought out a car with the 3.8 engine. I've had a few odd glitches (power window switch, a couple of dash lights burned out), but overall I'd say the car has been as reliable as the '89 Toyota Celica it replaced (which I drove for 11 years and @ 116k miles).
Service guy says it was caused by not fully engaging the brakes when shifting from reverse to drive...however,that is not how I drive. Upon his inspection, the pan had big chunks of metal and gears all ground up.
mine is 2001 with 60,000 mi started having problems with reverse and drive in cold start..when warmed up was ok. it is getting a new transmission installed cuz they opened up the pan and found chunks of metal and gears all ground up. better have them look inside your transmission.
any advise ??? :confuse:
a little nocking sound coming from the motor suggested my mechanic that one of the lifters maybe stuck or not doing its job because of all gasoline residue.(cheap gas even if you use 89 grade) so before any mayor job . he wants me to pour 1 bottle of transmission oil to the motor and then let it run for about an hour then do my oil change. this will lubricate and clean up all the inside parts of the motor leaving it almost like new. ??????????
I just dont know I never heard of such thing before.
does anyone know about it ???? I have an 04 impala :confuse:
I'm new on this board, ...just joined since, ...you guessed it. I have an '01 Impala with a transmission issue.
Just yesterday, ...I put it in gear, ...gave it gas, ...nothing. Then, ...thud, into gear(reverse). I notice everything on the car, ...and now I'm hearing a 'new' noise from the engine compartment(trans). I never gave it much thought but about a week ago, ...I thought something (shifting) acted "different" when accelerating (slip?). I just sort of 'noted' it, ...but adding that to yesterday's incident has me wondering. I've only driven it up and down the driveway, but it seems to function OK right now.
I have had the car for 2+ years (currently 56K miles), ...and it's been great. I do most of my own work on the cars, ...but not sure I want to tackle the trans on a front wheel drive.
My question, ...How involved is it to remove the (left) side cover to get to the PCM, TQ bandwidth solenoid, etc.?
NOT that I know that is the problem, ...yet.
If it's manageable, ...I'd rather do it myself.
By the way, ...another plug for www.rockauto.com , ...I've ordered from them a number of times, ...great prices and service.
Thanks,
Kevin
I have a 2003 Chevy Impala with 115,000 miles on it. The car has been lurching into gear when step on the gas if I am not gentle enough. The problem seems to lessen when the car has been running for a while, but never completely goes away. We took it to our mechanic today and he did a diagnostic check on it. Nothing else was wrong with it and he said that the transmission was slipping. He does not work on trasmissions, and said that it would be a very pricey repair. Does this in fact sound like a trasmission problem or could it be something else? If it is a trasmission problem, is a car with this many miles on it worth the repair or is it time to trade it in? How much are we talking about? Any help would be grealy appreciated!!! Thanks! :sick: