Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions
I have 1996 Camry LE which is displaying the Check engine. I took to a Toyota Dealer and they said the Emissions Control was malfunctioning VSV at Charcoal Canister not Switching, to clear the problem they will have to replace this the VSP unit and want $250 for the part + $100 for the labor.
Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?
Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?
Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
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Other that causing some pollution, is this causing damage to the engine by not having this repaired? I was told the out of warranty repair is over $1,000, which I don't have right now.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with the 2.2 L engine?
So much for Toyotas lasting forever or running 200K with no troubles!
I got the "Engine Malfunction Light" on and checked up with a mechanic - he told me that the Charcoal Canister need to be replaced and quoted a sum of $360 + tax ... please let me know if this is too much ?
Also, is there a problem in the long run, if this is not replaced immediately.
Thanks for your help !!!
Anyways I got it checked out and they said it could either be the oxygen sensor or transmission so they reset and it stayed off for a few months. And they told me if it came on again they would replace the oxygen sensor. Well it's on again and I'm not sure what to do about this should I go and get another diagnostic done again to double check the problem or just replace the oxygen sensors? Has anyone had this problem?
even my Honda Civic has the same problem. I am not sure if I should get it fixed or just leave it...
How important is it to get fixed. Mechanic says the Oxygen sensor could be $275 itself.
My car has been running good even with the "Check Engine" light on.
Any help would be appreciated....
Thanks in advance,
Uday
You should let the dealer do a diagnostic to see what parts are not working.
You can then decide what should be replaced, when and by whom.
Does anyone know of a free website with list of codes?
The owner's manual for my former '97 Camry called for blowing out some of the canister's lines with compressed air at 72K mile intervals in certain states, including California.
I think the canister should last the life of the car, unless there really is some problem. I'd get a second opinion, or at least have them explain in detail what's wrong.
$542 is outrageous, IMO.
Lots of items need servicing at the 150K mark, the same as needed at 30K and 90K. If the timing belt has never been changed, it should be done now also.
I'd recommend buying an owner's AND separate maintenance manual on eBay.
I just bought a 2001 wagon and would like to hear from anyone who has advice regarding engine modifications. I am contemplating fitting a turbo or supercharger at about 6psi boost, but not sure which way to go - has anyone done this here? I have a 6 speed sequential Hewland gearbox out of the old Camry Super Tourer that ran in Sth Africa and Australia a couple of years back which will fit with a little bit of jiggling and will take the horsepower OK.
I'm not sure if I should lose the carbon clutch though - has anyone ever driven a car with a carbon clutch, I hear they are a bit 'on/off' in operation?
This will be a daily driver from college and back each day, so I'm undecided if I should fit 19" wheels - they might attract too much attention.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Josh.
Need help with my 2000 toyo camry. The CEL light is on and the verdict is that I need to replace the EGR valve, modulator and vacuum switch. Is it possible to have this done inhouse. I am new to this...please help.
TnR
A good service manual will give you an idea of the complexity of the repair.
If you're wondering if the diagnosis is correct, then I'd recommend seeking a second opinion, preferably from an independent garage, maybe one that specializes on Japanese cars.
Thanks a lot,
Ming
I got a quote for the timing belt change from strauss discount auto for $370 which includes the timing belt/accessory belt/tensioner/water pump.
now to the real deal :
1) should i go to the meineke guy and give him a piece of my mind for practically stealing from my wife ( he charged $28 for each spark plug!!!! )?
2) now that the engine light is on again should i take it to the dealer or is autozone an ok option?
3) is the quote on the timing belt a good deal or should i get the parts from else where ( found some cheap parts online ) and have him just give the labor.
4) should i take another hit to my wallet and get the parts from toyota dealership?
5) how does one change transmission fluid by themselves? ( i would like to save the $90 they're charging ) and whats the best fluid to use?
I would really appreciate any help! thanks.
I have a 97 LE 4 cyl at 106K, I know what you have in mind, try to save some money by going to other places, even thinking getting the part yourself then have someone put it on and hoping to just paying for their labor.
My advice, Don't Do it. Been there, done that and it ended up costing more.
Let get to your answers first
1) no, $28 is not uncommon. Especially for the Camry, they use platinum plugs and it costs a bit. I have my car done in the dealer at 60K, suppose to include spark plugs but since it's platinum, they want additonal $60 on top.
2) usually is related to emission when the engine light is on. Since you didn't mention how much Meineke wants, but my guess will be around $150-$200 if you have it done at toyota
3) $370 for timing belt/accessory belts/water pump? YES, sounds CHEAP.
one toyota dealer want $750 for timing belt and water pump on my Camry. I took it to another toyota dealer and just replace my timing belt and drive belts for $270
4) what parts are you thinking to get from the dealer? oxyen sensor? belts? water pumps? I would, and I would have toyota put it it instead of going somewhere, I will explain it.
5) changing transmission fluid yourself? Messy. not too hard if you have the tools and space. you need to work under the car and at the same time you will need to unscrew all the bolts while you are down there. (I just don't feel safe working under a car personally) and what if one of the bolt is super tight that you can't get it out?
By the way, a transmission fluid service should be less than $100 if go to local shop. I did take my car to the dealer and have them do a power flush. it's about $150 but it sucked out almost all the fluid (about 10 qt?) compare to draining it the old way (2-3 qt)
I once want to save money and try to take my car to some local shop. Cheap brake job, and it didn't even last for a year. End up going to Toyota and have the brake re work. It's more expensive but it last much much longer and I do think it worth it.
Buying part and have someone put it on. Sounds great and good way to save money. Problem is what happened when they didn't work as expected? The guy will say 'bad part' talk to toyota. and toyota say hey, we didn't put it on, sorry. End up costing you more in the long run.
See if you take it to the dealer at the beginning, it might cost you little more but it makes it easier to deal with when things not working properly.
Think about this, your 00 is still pretty new, if you keep it in good condition, it will run for another 100K easily. Also, if you decided to sell it later, you have all ther records to prove you take good care of your car and works are done by the dealer, it makes a difference.
However, do shop around I have been to 3 toyota dealer in my areas and some will say you need this and that but the other, just tell you what you actually need and I trust them.
This is my experience with my camry, Highlander and the toyota dealer. hope it help
...berzerker3...
1. The plugs are overpriced. They are not as cheap as your Bosch or other brand but if they are OEM plugs but that still seems way out of the ball park.
2. Take it to a dealer or a foreign auto repair shop and have them read the diagnostics. In fact you should find a reputable foreign auto repair shop and have them do all your mechanical work and diagnostics. Leave meinke to mufflers and brakes.
3. Your quote including water pump seems fair.
4. timing belt is an integral maintenance piece, don't cheap out.
5. have not done this before, sorry.
if you change your oil, do your belt as required per schedule, this car can last a long long time.
BTW, the CEL typically goes off after a pre-determined number of starts if the fault is not repeated.
RG
My other issue is the Overdrive light. It keeps blinking with the engine like on. The overdrive light will stop blinking if i hit a bump hard enough or if i hit another bump, restart the O/D light to resume blinking. Is it time for a new Transmission? i have 150k on the good car.
HELP!!!!!!
I don't think the O/D light coming on and off has anything to do with the tranny going bad. With 150K, if you do not normally drive with O/D off,
locate the overdrive switch on the transmission housing and disconnect it.
The hex allen wrench is what you need to remove the plastic plug cover. I don't know why Toyota bothered to use that little plastic piece. They had to say " 3.0L 24 valve " someplace I guess. The screws are not star type as you mentioned.
Joe
RG
Has anyone ever been covered undered this Emissions Warranty Enhancement for repairs? Knowing that you have to get the problem checked out at a Toyota Dealer ($100.00) before they tell you whether it is covered under the warranty.
I just had the tranmission rebuilt $1400.00 and now this engine light shows up. I'm getting ready to put it up for sale by owner. It has 119K miles and one owner me! So I need to hurry up and get it ready for selling so I can buy my new car. I've had it with this camry
Besides, I don't think the warranty enhancement had anything to do with the evaporative emissions system, but I could be mistaken.
Emissions Warranty
Here is an Excerpt:
"The enhancement coverage is on the Evaporative System and is extended to the components specified below for a period of 14 yrs or 150,000 miles from the vehicles in service date, whichever occurs first.
-Evap storage canister
-Evap system pressure sensor
-Fuel cap
-Fuel tank
-Fuel tank filter neck
-Purge valve
-Tank vapor vent line
-Three-way valve
-Any ohter part or component, including any maintenance parts, between the fuel tank and teh intake manifold (but not including the intake manifold) designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system"
~Take the air filter assembly off.
~You'll notice the closed valve at the opening to the engine block.
~Use some throttle body cleaner and an old tooth brush and clean the area before that valve real good.
~Let it dry. Then repeat one more time.
~After 30 minutes put the air filter assembly back and you are done.
It worked for me. Infact there is a site that shows you how it is done (with pics). You just have to do some good research. I did this like a year ago. Don't pay someone for something you can do yourself !!
What seems to be happening, is your fuel filter is not full at 40-50MPH.
YOUR ENGINE DOENT HAVE ENOUGH FUEL AT 50 MPH
It seems that your engine is pulling the fuel out faster than it can be filled.
At higher speeds the engine the pumps fuel faster, thus what supplying more fuel.
I had this SAME problem on my dodge diesel.
The problem was at the fuel tank. AIR was getting into the fuel pickup.
Dodge or Toyota doesn't matter.
Get air in a fuel system you have problems.
They had to put in a New Fuel Pickup.
They have a way to check the fuel system.
Give it a shot
Brian
Tune up - $175 parts, labor, tax (has not been done since I bought car 11/02)
Leaking fluids (transmission, power steering, CV boot). Mechanic does not want to replace power steering pump until all leaks are fixed (e.g., transmission pan gasket, filter). This work would also include steam cleaning engine. - $225 parts, labor, tax. (2.5 hours labor @$60 per hour).
Total $400 out the door.
If power steering pump is still a problem, roughly $175 for rebuilt and 2.5 hours labor.
Mechanic is reputable and comes recommended. Are these costs competitive (Los Angeles zip 90042)?
Thanks!
I'd certainly replace the torn CV boot, and recommend repairing the tranny leak. Where is the power steering fluid leaking from? It would certainly be a good idea to repair that also, but what is the problem with the power steering pump?
And I'd skip the steam cleaning - just have him use a shop rag to clean off excess grease/fluids from the leaks.
Thanks