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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions



  • garzagarza Posts: 3
    Hello everyone. My '99 Solara V6 has started hesitating upon acceleration. I checked plugs, and they all looked great"just rolled 61,000 miles". I did have the check engine light come on a while back, and I replaced the O2 sensor on the back side of the engine, and it fixed that. It does not miss at full throttle, does not have a rough idle, just when you are gradually accelerating, at any speed, the car has a "slight bucking" feel to it. I currently have no check engine light on. Air filter is new also. It is not a full miss like a carb sputtering, its more like a jerking feeling. Any recommendations as what I should look into?? I thought maybe the transmission, but im almost sure it is not a tranny issue.

  • afbaseafbase Posts: 1
    I have a problem with starting my 95 V-6 Camry. I have to pump gas to get the thing running. I think the spark plugs have something to do with it. The problem is removing the engine cover to get access to the spark plugs. The screws the mount this plastic to the engine are not Star, Philips, allen, or anything else i can think of. Its more of a circular hole that seems to have no grooves that a screw driver could use.

    My other issue is the Overdrive light. It keeps blinking with the engine like on. The overdrive light will stop blinking if i hit a bump hard enough or if i hit another bump, restart the O/D light to resume blinking. Is it time for a new Transmission? i have 150k on the good car.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? At 150K, it is the best place to start. Use Toyota fuel filter instead of Fram or Bosch. Then I would replace the plugs.

    I don't think the O/D light coming on and off has anything to do with the tranny going bad. With 150K, if you do not normally drive with O/D off,
    locate the overdrive switch on the transmission housing and disconnect it.

    The hex allen wrench is what you need to remove the plastic plug cover. I don't know why Toyota bothered to use that little plastic piece. They had to say " 3.0L 24 valve " someplace I guess. The screws are not star type as you mentioned.

  • foleyfoley Posts: 2
    My '00 Solara does the same thing. Basically it is a mild surge under light throttle. I don't think this is serious at this point, but would like to figure it out soon! I've tried changing plugs, cleaning air intake etc. but am running out of ideas.
  • garzagarza Posts: 3
    Yes, While you are cruising at say 25-30 "or even more" or so with your foot lightly into the pedal, it almost "bucks" the car, but if you let off, or accellerate, its gone. I have taken apart the entire air cleaner assembly and cleaned, fresh oil, new filter ect..Im wondering if there is not some sensor going out or? Seems throttle based to me, something like a TPS or? It idles just fine. I dont know much about these engines soo. It is not throwing any codes, but I will check again.

  • gdub2gdub2 Posts: 10
    My engine light is on - and my code is P0441 - Evap emission control purge flow low - does anyone know if this will be covered under the 1996 through 1998 Model Year Federal Emissions Warranty Enhancement before I have to take it to the dealer and pay $100 for them to look at it?

    Has anyone ever been covered undered this Emissions Warranty Enhancement for repairs? Knowing that you have to get the problem checked out at a Toyota Dealer ($100.00) before they tell you whether it is covered under the warranty.

    I just had the tranmission rebuilt $1400.00 and now this engine light shows up. I'm getting ready to put it up for sale by owner. It has 119K miles and one owner me! So I need to hurry up and get it ready for selling so I can buy my new car. I've had it with this camry
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Do you have the Federal Emissions Warranty Enhancement documents? I'd be skeptical that they would still cover a 10-year-old car with 119K miles.

    Besides, I don't think the warranty enhancement had anything to do with the evaporative emissions system, but I could be mistaken.
  • gdub2gdub2 Posts: 10
    Yes - I do have the document. It was a letter that they sent out I tried to make it into an image let's see if this works ..

    Emissions Warranty

    Here is an Excerpt:

    "The enhancement coverage is on the Evaporative System and is extended to the components specified below for a period of 14 yrs or 150,000 miles from the vehicles in service date, whichever occurs first.
    -Evap storage canister
    -Evap system pressure sensor
    -Fuel cap
    -Fuel tank
    -Fuel tank filter neck
    -Purge valve
    -Tank vapor vent line
    -Three-way valve
    -Any ohter part or component, including any maintenance parts, between the fuel tank and teh intake manifold (but not including the intake manifold) designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system"
  • hcheneyhcheney Posts: 1
    I have the same issue. 2001 Camry, V-6, 71k miles. If you drive it at 40 to 50 mph and hold steady on the gas, it will start jerking badly. I have had it to the dealer twice for this issue. The first time they told me nothing showed up on the computer. The second time, they cleaned the carbon off the throttle?, since it hadn't been done and that "may help". Well it didn't and now it is going back again. This vehicle idles smoothly, runs well at highway speeds, but in that speed range, which is most non-highway speeds, it is simply awful to drive in. Please post if you have any luck and I will do the same. I don't want a Toyota dealer to pull parts and "HOPE" it works, that is what I would expect at the corner gear head garage.
  • k2005k2005 Posts: 4
    :confuse: I just purchased, a 98 Camry LE w/ 69k, I've owned VWs for years so I don't know a whole lot about toyotas. First question, when I start my vehicle and accelarate it for the first time it make a noise an feels like it's somehow forcing the engine, is that normal. Second question in the freeway at speeds of 60+ my steering wheel vibrates a lot. Third question approx. how much will it cost to get a keyless entry alarm and control? Thank you.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Number 1, I don't know exactly what you mean by a noise "forcing" the engine -- you may want to elaborate. Number 2, the most likely cause is improperly balanced tires/wheels, probably the fronts. Number 3, I have no idea.
  • txstudmfntxstudmfn Posts: 6
    If it feels kinda like the pedal sticks/ hesitates/ jerks on acceleration then follow this procedure.
    ~Take the air filter assembly off.
    ~You'll notice the closed valve at the opening to the engine block.
    ~Use some throttle body cleaner and an old tooth brush and clean the area before that valve real good.
    ~Let it dry. Then repeat one more time.
    ~After 30 minutes put the air filter assembly back and you are done.
    It worked for me. Infact there is a site that shows you how it is done (with pics). You just have to do some good research. I did this like a year ago. Don't pay someone for something you can do yourself !!
  • briana2briana2 Posts: 1
    It sounds like you have an air leak in your fuel system.
    What seems to be happening, is your fuel filter is not full at 40-50MPH.
    It seems that your engine is pulling the fuel out faster than it can be filled.
    At higher speeds the engine the pumps fuel faster, thus what supplying more fuel.

    I had this SAME problem on my dodge diesel.
    The problem was at the fuel tank. AIR was getting into the fuel pickup.
    Dodge or Toyota doesn't matter.
    Get air in a fuel system you have problems.
    They had to put in a New Fuel Pickup.
    They have a way to check the fuel system.
    Give it a shot

  • bluesabrebluesabre Posts: 2
    Congrats on your Gen4 purchase, I have the same model and year. (Except mine has over 104k miles on it.) By "forcing the engine," do you mean you floor the accelerator pedal and the engine doesn't respond like you expect? You didn't provide much info, but it could be a number of things: Transmission for starters, when was the fluid flushed and replaced? You're also getting close on the timing belt replacement, did mine at 70k. It could be as simple as a plugged PCV valve or dirty intake. Those last two items are very easy to remedy - your PCV valve should be replaced every 60k. You can get a new PCV and grommet from your local Toyota dealer and intake cleaner from your local autoparts store (cheaper than the dealer.)
  • k2005k2005 Posts: 4
    you knew exactly what I was taking about. But I thought Gen4 timing belt was suppose to be replace at 90k, anyway, I will be doing a service tomorrow because no service was performed at 60k. This is what i'll be doing. New tires (they're really worn out), new brakes, 4 wheel alingment, replace oil & filter, transmission flush, cooling system flush, spark plugs, and air filter. and I guess now that you mention it. I should replace pcv valve then. So it's going to be quite expensive, do you think I my timing belt could wait until 90k?.
  • jdoug6jdoug6 Posts: 2
    I have a '96 Camry 4-cyl. LE 2.2 liter (116,000 miles, 68,000 of which put on car in last 2.5 years). I have been advised to do the following:

    Tune up - $175 parts, labor, tax (has not been done since I bought car 11/02)
    Leaking fluids (transmission, power steering, CV boot). Mechanic does not want to replace power steering pump until all leaks are fixed (e.g., transmission pan gasket, filter). This work would also include steam cleaning engine. - $225 parts, labor, tax. (2.5 hours labor @$60 per hour).

    Total $400 out the door.

    If power steering pump is still a problem, roughly $175 for rebuilt and 2.5 hours labor.

    Mechanic is reputable and comes recommended. Are these costs competitive (Los Angeles zip 90042)?

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Tune up? The only "tune up" required is to change the spark plugs, which is an easy job on the 4-cylinder. Is the engine running smoothly right now?

    I'd certainly replace the torn CV boot, and recommend repairing the tranny leak. Where is the power steering fluid leaking from? It would certainly be a good idea to repair that also, but what is the problem with the power steering pump?

    And I'd skip the steam cleaning - just have him use a shop rag to clean off excess grease/fluids from the leaks.
  • garzagarza Posts: 3
    OK, I took out the air filter assembly down to the throttle body. Then I cleaned inside the throttle body best I could with carb cleaner and a shop rag. This FIXED my problem. I have no clue why, but the car does not have the hesitation any more. Thanks a lot for the tip.
  • Hi I bought a used 2002 Toyota Camry with 19000 miles and have a question. When I bring my toyota to a quick stop (as opposed to a slow stop) the engine will vibrate for about a second and then idle smooth again. I had this checked out by a toyota master technician before purchase and he said that it is the computerized idleing. It will idle just one click higher than it should in certain situations. He said in no way is this harmful to the vehicle, and it cannot be fixed. He claims this is just something you sometimes have to deal with having a 4cylinder as opposed to a 6. Although I do not believe that it cannot be fixed(it's probably just not cost effective to them), do you think this is a fair assessment? It really isn't that big of a deal(the vibration is only obvious if you are sitting in the driver seat), but I was just curious if anyone had any inuput.

  • This is my first toyota, purchased used with 30k now has 42k miles on it. About 3/4 of the time when I apply brakes to come to a stop my engine strongly shudders. It began when only my air conditioning was turned on. The shudder is becoming more pronounced. Now, as I check it without the air on the engine vibrates slightly. At first I thought it was the compressor causing the engine to bog down while slowing, maybe something loose under the hood, maybe a belt??? I have asked 2 toyota service techs about it and they have never heard of this happening. Has anyone had this issue and found out what the cause is? Any ideas what may be causing this?
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    Where do you feel the engine shudder/vibration? Do the rpms drop noticeably?
  • I have an 02 LE with 19000 miles on it and it does the same exact thing. I had it checked out by a toyota master tech. and he claims that it is the computerized idling intermittently clicking up one notch too high, nothing they could do about it, and it is not harmful to the car. I don't believe that there is "nothing they can do about it"(it's probably just not cost effective to replace "computerized idling"), but I do believe that it is not harmful. Of course it could also be something else, but this was his opinion. If you take it in and get another opinion or a cost for repair I would be very interested.
  • Hi txstudmfn,
    I am having the same problem and would like to give your tip above a try. Problem is I dont know where the parts you are talking about are. In your mail you are talking about a site that shows how to do all this stuff with pics. Can you tell me what site it is. That will be very helpful.

  • Hi,

    As far as I'm concerned, Camry's are the best cars in the world! However, I notice that mine sometimes "surges" when going up a hill or driving slow. When this happens the rpms stay constant and doesn't shift gears (its an automatic by the way). Just curious if anyone else has had this happen or may know what is causing it. Also, when the car is stopped at a stop sign for example, it runs rough, but when shifted into neutral it runs fine? Thanks for you help.

  • had two 1994 camrys. can't say that they ever surged. both 4 cyls and auto. wonder if one of your vacuum hoses is loose or leaking??? as for "rough" at idle at at a light, the car's vibration is getting translated through the steering wheel (bad motor mounts). I used to put it in neutral too and it's nice and smooth. When were the mounts last changed?? Mine went near 145-150K if I remember. I used autozone on the second car to save money over the dealer prices but they went in 18 months and never were as good as OEM's to remove the vibration. On that car, we replaced them with OEM's at 165K and when I gave it to my in-law, it had 202K and vibrated some (not many miles for them to start going but the rear one was never changed). Not sure if that was the problem or not cause the dogbone, front and trans mounts only had the 37K on them. Just a little vibration to irritate me but not bad as when they went. just a thought on the surging, does it do it starting out in 1st and 2nd gear?? like lurching??? if so, the dogbone is gone. Go look at the one on the passenger's side (it looks like a dogbone or dumbell and is on the top of the engine). If that rubber looks shot, that's a problem. good luck.
  • I have the same problem with my '98 Mazda Protege and my trusted mechanic says the motor mounts are worn. I haven't chosen to replace the mounts because it runs about 900 bucks and to me it is optional !
  • foleyfoley Posts: 2
    I finally got a check engine light caused by code P1411. This is problem with the EGR valve position sensor. $40 later to buy a replacement part at the dealer, the engine surge is gone.
  • Has anybody out here put the super charger on their camry v6. if so did u find any noticeable difference in the performance of the car.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    There's NO question that supercharging will have a profound effect on generated torque and power. The real question is how will supercharging affect crankshaft, bearing, connecting rod, and piston longevity, with the added stress on parts originally designed with a milder state of tuning in mind, in generating that additonal torque and power.
  • I have a 02 camry that did the same thing starting at 15000 miles. The dealers were no help. They said it was normal. I think they are full of it. I tryed cleaning the butterfly below the air filter with carb cleaner. It has worked for me so far. You might try it. It only takes five minutes. Good luck tenkiller
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