Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions



  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Member Posts: 167
    I had the oil changed using Syntec, as mentioned. I bought five quarts of Castrol 10W-30 'Regular' oil to use when adding. I did have over half a quart of Syntec Blend left. Well, it's been 1,500 miles, and that half quart, actually it was more like 2/3 of a quart, is all I have added. It is a touch under full right now.
    So have used 1.2 quarts in 1,500 miles. I have no idea why usage has slowed, am guessing it is warmer overnight, so engine has to work less when cold? I don't think there is too much of a warm-up period before hitting the road, or at least taking it easy for 2-3 minutes or so. Bringing it up and trying to explain just gets percieved as looking down on someone, so umm.... TMI, sorry. :blush:
  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Member Posts: 167
    Finally switched to conventional oil. Castrol GTX 10W-30.
    1,575 miles, including a just-completed Interstate & Hwy trip across WA and back in fairly warm temps.
    Used just slightly less than one quart. Like a tenth less, but it is less, and an improvement!
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Member Posts: 34
    I have a 4 cylinder 03 Camry. I can hear the engine noise under light acceleration (about 2000 rpm). I had driven my friend's 94 Camry 4 cylinder with 150000 mi on it, and the engine is quieter than my Camry with only 32000 mi. Is the quality declined or what. I want to hear other Camry owners' opinions about this. Is this just a single case or it is a commom problem amone all 4 cylinder Camry (02~06)

    Thank You for any Suggestions and Opinions
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Has the engine noise increased since the car was new? I have two Camrys with the 4-cylinder engine, one a 2004 and the other a 2005. I don't consider the engines noisy at all, and if anything, quieter than the '97 4-cylinder I used to have.
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Member Posts: 34
    The engine noise doesn't increase. The reason I concern about it because I rided with several of my friends. They own chevy malibu, honda accord, CRV, and toyota corolla. My car is noisier compare to theirs. A lot of people say Toyota's cars are quieter than Honda's and America's cars. But based on my experience it is not always true, especially compare to Honda's.
  • mike215mike215 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2005 camry with the 4 cyl engine and it has a humming noise, too. It is very noisy. I am very disappointed, since I purchased the camry because I wanted a quiet car. I had a 1991 corolla before and the engine was much quieter than the camry's. If the humming noise wasn't there it would be a quiet engine. The dealer said the humming is normal. I have put in a complaint to toyota customer service who said they have received other complaints about the humming, but they couldn't tell me what was making the noise. It seems to me to be coming from the exhaust manifold area or perhaps farther down the exhaust pipe. Does anybody know where this noise is coming from? If this noise were gone, I'd have a wonderful car.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Since we can't 'hear' it, hard to try and guess what it is. Is the humming the front radiator fans?

    Does it hum at the speed of the engine? So when you speed up the engine, the humming gets louder/faster? If it does, you can take off the accessory belt for a short period of time, which will determine whether the sound is from 'inside' the engine, or outside on one of the accessories.
  • mike215mike215 Member Posts: 3
    The humming is not the front radiator fans, which do of course come on periodically while the engine is idleing. The humming noise is most easily audible at idle and it is constant, although not a constant pitch. It is a hollow type of hum, kind of similar to what it sounds like when you blow over the top of an open soda bottle. The noise seems to come from the exhaust manifold area when I am standing over the engine while the car is idleing. It definitely is not coming from behind the engine (between the engine and the firewall).

    The other time I hear a similar noise is when I am on the highway accelerating gradually in high gear at low rpms - say between 2,000 rpm and 2,300 rpm or lower. Once I get above 2,400 rpm (about 70 mph) the noise goes away. This humming is similar in pitch to that of the noise I hear when the engine is idleing, but the pitch rises with the rpm's.

    Finally, the other time I hear the humming is at low speeds after I take my foot off the accelerator and I am coasting. At this time, the humming sounds exactly the same as when the car is idleing.

    Thanks for replying to my message. I hope you can give me some insight into where this noise could be coming from.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Here's what I do to isolate weird engine noises in any of our vehicles. Usually the root cause of the problem ends up being one of the belt driven accessories.

    Let the engine warm up so that the thermostat opens (get it up to operating temperature, but don't let it get real hot because you will be working on it). Take off the accessories serpentine belt - find the belt tensioner and there is usually a wrench attachment point where you put a large wrench on it and take the pressure off of the belt. Remove the belt from the pulley and slowly let loose of the tensioner as if it were going to put pressure back on the belt (but it's not there). Get the belt out of the way from the crankshaft pulley, so you can start the engine and not get anything caught.

    When you start the engine, you will find that either the weird sound continues, or it's stopped. If it is still humming, then the source is either inside the engine, or it is something electrical which is still powered. Usually I find the noise has stopped, which you then know is one of the belt driven accessories or pulley's causing the problem. Turn the engine off (and you don't want to leave it running a long time anyhow as you don't want it to overheat). Now turn each of the pulley accessories by hand, and listen feel for whether they turn smoothly, or bind or make noise. When you find the noisy pulley, you know exactly what to fix. To put the belt back on, line up the belt back onto all the pulleys but the tensioner, apply the wrench to put pressure on the tensioner (allowing the belt to go back into place), slip the belt back on the pulley, and you're done.

    This whole procedure is very easy to do, and doesn't take much time. It wouldn't surprise me if you had a bad pulley on the tensioner itself.
  • robcatbobrobcatbob Member Posts: 1
    I recently had to put my 94 camry up for sale. It had 164,000 miles on it. The car ran perfectly, never had any problems with it at all in the year that I owned it. Always changed oil every 3000 miles. A man came out to look at it, checked it all out in the driveway, asked normal questions, etc... and then drove it down the road for a drive. Within five minutes he was on the phone telling me something terrible happened to my car. He said he put it in neutral (its an automatic) and revved it three times cos he wanted to see if it blew oil and something exploded. Well, I got there and there it sat in a pool of oil and a rod busted out the side of the engine. My question is, is it possible for that to happen giving absolutely no indication of a problem before or did this guy red-line my car until it threw the rod? This is a car I drive daily and is quiet as can be. Any help would be appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Probably redlined it to see how it would rev up.

    You just convinced me to always ride with whoever is test driving whatever I'm selling.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi mike215:
    The sound that you are hearing is the resonance of the pipes in the exhaust system from the flow of the exhaust gases. The Honda Van had this problem in 2006 / 2007 on some vehicles. (The fix was to change a pipe in the exhaust system.) Has this vehicle had this problem since it was new? If the answer to this question is "NO," (and no part of the exhaust system has been replaced), check the condition of the exhaust components. You might have a leak in the exhaust system, or one of the component connections might be loose, so as such, it can vibrate with the speed of the engine.
    Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Member Posts: 34
    I am pretty sure the humming is not from the exhaust pipe. Because the noise is from the front side of the cabin or I should say from the engine compartment. It appears at very low rpm (around 2000 rpm) and the noise sounds very low in the frequency. This noise appeared since the car was new, and I also checked the exhaust system from underneath of the car. So I eliminated the possibility which comes from the resonance of the pipe.
  • mike215mike215 Member Posts: 3
    I checked for leaks and any loose connections. Everything looks good. I have had this problem since the car was new. Maybe this will help - The noise isn't there when the car is cold. It only starts to be heard as the engine reaches it's normal opperating temperature. Thanks for all suggestions. I would still like to solve this mystery. I do feel it's coming from the exhaust system some how.
  • cobbblondiecobbblondie Member Posts: 1
    I found this message on Web...anyone know how to contact Toyota OR Lexus to have them perform this work? Anyone did it and have dealer honor it?

    Any thoughts on this car and this problem?

    Gas mileage, timing belt issues, dependability...127K miles

    Lexus has issued an 8 year unlimited mileage goodwill repair for this condition

    Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Air Fuel Ratio Sensors, Evaporative (EVAP) Emission system and the Engine. Failure of Air Fuel Ratio Sensors and EVAP system will cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. The common failure of the Engine is excessive oil usage caused by engine oil gelling. However, when proper maintenance schedules for oil changes are followed, oil gelling should not occur. The cost to repair the Air Fuel Ratio Sensors is estimated at $377.31 each for parts and $65.00 for labor. The cost for parts to repair the EVAP system can range from $88.00 - $350.00 while labor can range from $19.50 - $65.00. The cost to repair the Engine is estimated at $4,500.00 for parts and $1,514.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time
  • kmm201kmm201 Member Posts: 1
    Am thinking about purchasing a 1996 Camry LE 4 cyl that has been advertised as having some minor lifter noise. Traveling up to 150 miles on a trip appears to be no problem, but much longer distances is definitely problematic. Any idea if this is an issue that can be inexpensively resolved or should I keep looking?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I think you already know to keep looking.
  • ameipearlameipearl Member Posts: 2
    I went to a shop for a diagnostic because my check engine light was on. I went to the autozone before and got the code as P0306, cylinder 6 misfire.
    First of all the shop didn't give me an estimate before they went ahead and fixed the car. They first told me on the phone that it would cost $317. Then after I went to get my car they brought it down to 270. It was $90 for parts, and 3 hr labor totaling of 180. My friends told me I got ripped. Is that the case?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Maybe. Parts price seems okay. Labor time strikes me as high, but if the official "book" time for the labor is 3 hours, then the shop will charge for 3 hours, even if it took the mechanic only 45 minutes or less to do the work. That's unfortunately the way it works in the car repair business. BTW, $60 per hour for labor is also reasonable these days.
  • feanor70115feanor70115 Member Posts: 1

    About 3 months ago I ordered a replacement engine for my '94 2.2 camry. The parts supplier promised me a '93 engine (completely compatible) with about 30.000 miles on it. Well, once the thing was 90% in, the mechanic discovered that the new engine had largely incompatible wiring, including a different ditributor cap and ignition coil, as well as some emissions components that the original engine did not. Being a clueless !@#$%#$, he assumed that what I'd gotten (I ordered the engine, not the mechanic, or I wouldn't have these problems) was a California-emissions engine.

    Eventually he wired the thing all together, but ever since, the car's been eating twice as much gas as it should, and installing a new O2 sensor (this model only has one, not two) didn't make a difference. The fuel-air mixture is far too rich.

    To make a long story short, I recently discovered that the real problem is that 1995 engines were tuned and wired differently to meet more stringent emissions standards in all 50 states, thus the electrical incompatibility. Does anyone know what I would need to do to make this Frankenstein monstrosity work correctly? Would installing a '95 ECU do the trick? Can the '94 ECU just be tricked in order to quit @#@$ing up the fuel mixture?

    Thanks for any help.
  • 6sigma16sigma1 Member Posts: 1
    Is Mobil Formula 1 Synthetic motor oil a good oil for 2007 Toyota Camry? What do you recommend as a good motor oil for Camry?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,713
    Just stick with a good dino, like Castrol GTX 5w-20. No need for synthetic. Follow the owner's manual, unless you do lots of very short trips (under 5 miles). Then, I would change more often.
  • collegeguyjxncollegeguyjxn Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 with about 82000 miles on it. It has been a great car with no problems to speak of. The only problem is two things that might be related.
    a) When I crank the car and it is cold, there is a lot of engine noise. It sounds as though something is lose of something. There is usually a distinct sound when I hit the gas pedal and the car is cold. The sound seems to go away when the car is warmed up.
    b) My second problem began the other day. When I'm at highway speeds and hit the gas to pass someone or something a funny noise occurs. Sometimes when the transmission downshifts, I hear a loud vibrating noise that doesn't last for long. I haven't heard this sound but a few times.

    Im hoping that I can resolve these issues because I love my camry and want to keep it for many years/miles to come.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Regarding the engine noise, you need to determine whether the noise is from inside the engine, or external to the engine in one of the accessories (which is typically the case). The best way to do this, is to take off the accessory belt, and then start the car. If the noise is gone, then you know the problem is one of the bearings in one of the accessories. If the noise is still there, then you have potential engine problems that you need to get looked at. Assuming the noise goes away and is an accessory, turn the engine off, and then with your hand turn each of the accessories and feel for whether there is binding and or looseness in the pulley. Replace the item that is bad.

    Regarding the vibrating noise.....this could be related to the above problem, or could be a different problem, perhaps with the CV joints. I'd fix the first problem, and see if that makes the symptoms of the 2nd problem go away.
  • collegeguyjxncollegeguyjxn Member Posts: 4
    Don't think that it is an accessory because this sound only occurs when it is cold. It makes a quick high pitched sound on throttle only when the car has just been started.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check the accessories and pulleys, those are the normal items that wear before the engine internals.
  • jamieb2jamieb2 Member Posts: 2
    This car is in great shape and properly maintained by the dealer in which it was purchased new. The purchased extended warranty purchased, expired at 75,000 miles. On 3/5/08 at aprox 8:00pm we noticed a puddle of what we thought to be coolant under the car. Car running fine. We took it to the dealer, aprox 3 miles away at 7:30 am on 3/6/08. When pulling into the dealer is when the engine temp gage went high for the first time. This was noted to the service dept. We expected to hear later in the day that a hose was replaced, only to hear THE ENGINE IS BLOWN AT 88,000 miles. We were told the engine heated up and sheared off a bolt. Rare, but the were aware of it, it is a defect.. Toyota will pay for the parts but we must pay the labor. $2500.00. First, if it is a defect, why do we have to pay for anything, yes it is over the 75,000 mile warranty, but a defect. And, labor at this dealer is $95.00 an hour. Does it take 25 hours to replace an engine? Is there a consumer posting on how long is the expected time on a job? Watch for recalls and class actions.
  • jamieb2jamieb2 Member Posts: 2
    we have a 2003 camry which we loved until yesterday. 88,000 miles, running great, until we noticed what we thought to be, coolant under the car. We took it to the dealer yesterday to find out it is a blown engine. They said it is a defect. This had no warning at all until the leak. The car ran great, no noise at all. Ask your dealer to check it out so you dont run into this, but Im not sure what they can do to prevent it. It was a fluke I guess. They said it was a defect. Toyota will pay for the parts but we must pay for the labor $2500.00!!!!! I am still checking on this issue.
    Keep an eye out for recalls.
  • dtingledtingle Member Posts: 1
    The manifold glows red hot on my camry. I just replaced both converters on it and it still glows red hot. I have been told that it could be the timing, but my garage ran it on the computer and said that it looked fine. Any suggestions as to why it is so hot.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    You get an initial free warranty and optionally buy an extended warranty to cover manufacturing defects. You appear to want an additional warranty against defects for free. Doesn't work that way. You got probably $3000 or more in goodwill by not having to pay for the engine. Legally Toyota was not required to do that.

    In 1997, my Chrysler minivan A604 transmission failed at 96,000 miles which was 20k miles beyond the powertrain warranty. This failure had been thoroughly documented in the automotive press as caused by a design defect and many people had been fully or partially compensated beyond the warranty period, including a friend of mine whose tranny failure at similar mileage just a few months before mine. Despite providing extensive documentation of this, I got bupkis. The only satisfaction I got was sending the last person who rejected my plea a picture of my wife standing beside her new Ford Explorer.

    Good luck.
  • 5227mena5227mena Member Posts: 1
    I had the exact same problem with my 2003 toyota camry, but the dealer ship told me that there is no defect or recall. There telling me I need a new engine that is going to cost me 11,000.00. I still have 8,000.00 to pay on my car. Can you give me more info regarding this defect. I would really appreciate it.

    Carless in CA :sick:
  • sram3sram3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Camry LE 4 cyl with 180,000 miles on it. I had a problem recently with the engine in my car. I was driving my car fine and smooth until one fine day when my car suddenly started making a “clanking noise” inside the engine when I was on the road. The harder I pressed the gas pedal, the more noise it generated. And at one point,, the engine just died and the car stopped. I had to tow it to the garage, but after an hour’s gap, I was able to drive it (again, but with the same clanking noise) slowly into the garage from the tow truck. The technician says some “connecting rod” (connects to camshaft or something) inside the engine “broke” . He tried fixing it but concluded that the engine is shot and it’s not possible to fix it. He said my car is junk now and did not provide any more details about what caused it. I don’t know much about car parts, So, I am not sure whether this gives a clear picture of the problem. Here are my questions :
    1. Is it possible to tell just by the symptoms mentioned above the engine is indeed “shot”?
    2. If the engine is indeed shot, is it sensible to go for a rebuilt engine? Technician says Camry engines are expensive and it is not worth trying to go that route. He says I should rather go for a used car instead of trying to fix this car.
    3. How much will it cost to fit in a rebuilt engine into the Camry (including parts and labor)?

    Please advise. Thanks for your help in advance!!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If a connecting rod broke, then the engine is basically toast. A connecting rod, as its name implies, connects each piston (4 in your case) to the crankshaft.

    I'd suggest looking for another car, as your Camry is not worth fixing with that many miles and years on it. A ballpark estimate for a replacement engine is $5,000 at least. You could certainly find a decent used car for that price.

    But I'd get a second opinion before proceeding because your mechanic sounds too vague.
  • sram3sram3 Member Posts: 2
    About getting a second opinion.... I have a question that might sound stupid but lemme ask you anyways...
    The car is currently parked at my home. Would it be possible for a mechanic to identify whether the engine is indeed toast by coming home and taking a look inside the hood? Or do I have to tow it back to a garage again to get the second opinion?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If he brings with him a compression tester and some basic tools, he can check whether it has compression in all cylinders. If a connecting rod is broke, that piston won't move up and down, and there won't be any compression in that cylinder.

    However, the fact that you indicate the engine was clacking like that is the sound of something drastic, and you should have stopped driving immediately to have any chance at all of minimizing the damage. Continuing to run the engine could make it substantially worse, and you may now have metal shavings and parts all over your engine. With the connecting rod broke, it could actually break thru the block or pan and dump oil and/or cooling fluid all over the place. You could have a real mess if not careful.

    Your description and scenario has all of the symptoms of the engine being toasted. At that mileage, you got your money out of it. It's tired, put it out of it's misery in the giant scrap heap in the sky. You could see if the local high school wants it to let the kids tear the engine down.
  • tony108tony108 Member Posts: 16

    My 2007 Camry CE with 2.4 4cyl engine makes a slight engine noise (knock) every morning when it's cold (around 18 to 28f ). It's noticeable during idle and mild acceleration, until the engine is fully warmed up. Then it's barely noticeable when the needle at the temp gauge is almost at the middle. It sounds like a valve noise or a slight knock. I know that the sound is not coming from any where outside the engine (i.e drive belts, alt, or a/c compressor.) Oil has been changed regularly since new at the dealer every 4-5k miles, then I switched to mobil 1 synthetic 5-20 since 32,000 miles (I still change the oil every 4-5k miles) because I have read in this forum about the sludge issues that toyota engines have encountered and wanted to have the extra protection that synthetic offers. It now has 46,000 miles.

    I'm wondering if I should wait until the noise worsens so I could let the dealer hear it because they might just ignore me or say that it's "normal" when I go there especially when it only happens during cold starts and it would be fully warmed up when I get there. I have an extended warranty of up to 75,000 miles.

    Hopefully somebody out there could give me a good advice and shed some light on this matter if you have experienced the same symptoms.

  • kaboodlekaboodle Member Posts: 5
    after about 6,000 miles my 4 cyl engine started making a louder noise than it did when it was new. when going from zero to overdrive it sounds like a hollow noise. when it clicks into overdrive the noise is normal.. so when the car is under pressure is when we hear the noise. i had it checked out by the toyota dealer and he said it was normal and was always there. i disagree. my wife who is not a car person hears it and it was not there in the beginning.
    the engine performs o.k.expect for the above.
    is anyone having a similar problem?
  • redcamry1999redcamry1999 Member Posts: 1
    i own a camry year 1999 auto with a mileage of 246000. I'm keen to improve my car engine perfomance . I also noticed that the car engine feels'heavier' with reduced acceleration when the air cond is on. Can anyone help???
  • mm9mm9 Member Posts: 3
    I read a user's review on (didn't specify what year Camry model he had), and he said:

    "I test drove the V6LE to see if the available power was more pronounced than the 4 cyl. Well it was, but it always had a delay in response (1-2 seconds). Most cars other cars that I have driven have an immediate response when I "jump on it". I depend on this response when I encounter a situation that requires it."

    Has this been your experience as well? thanks!
  • kaboodlekaboodle Member Posts: 5
    i posted a thread a couple of days ago about my 2009 camry xle 4 cyl. engine. i do not know if you saw it, but when it was new it was great. after about 6,000 miles when feeding gas from 0 to around 40 there is a humming/hollow noise. i took it to the dealer and they said it was normal and the noise was always there and we just did not notice it. wrong, my wife is not a car buff and she heard it also. something changed. the car performs great and gives good gas mileage.
    to answer your question, i drive for the local toyota dealer delivering new cars for them. the 6 vs. 4 cyl is no comparision. the 6 has 262 horsepower 160 for the 4 cyl. the 6 is a rocket ship and i have not noticed any delay in response. if anyone can help with my problem i would be happy.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for earlier model cars 2007 on, which reprograms the engine and transmission computers for better performance and shift points. The symptom is engine 'lugging' (it's in too high a gear, and the engine doesn't have enough power to accelerate under very light gas pedal depression). If you downshift via the gearshift knob, or depress the gas pedal more to force a downshift it is fine.

    I don't know when your specific vehicle was built, and whether that TSB applies to your car or not. You can search the forums, it is discussed as well as copies of the TSB has been posted. If you go to your dealership and describe the lugging symptom from 35-45 mph, they can search their computers and tell you whether the TSB applies to your vehicle or not. It takes about 1/2 hour to reload the car computer with new software....runs great.
  • watchful8watchful8 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 camry with 71000 miles. That is exacty what I took my car in for. It started abruptly a few days after routine maintenance. Brought it in-it is a blown head gasket. Dealer says it's an engine defect. Fortunately I bought the extended warranty (expires in 4000 miles) and it's covered. You might have to fight Toyota on it.
  • knightcamryknightcamry Member Posts: 2
    I need to know how to remove the crankshaft timing pulley on a 1992 Camry. I want to remove the oil pump so I can take out the oil seal which is stuck.
    Here is what I tried:
    - tried using the two screw driver method to remove the seal after taking off the face of the oil pump. I was told it should come out easy but it is stuck.
    - now I am attempting to take off the oil pump and see if I can just knock out the seal that way

    Note: I don't have the special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley.
    Question: Is there a way to remove the pulley without the tool?
    Or is there a better way to achieve my objective(getting out the oil seal)?

    I am not a mechanic but am not afraid to learn.
    Can someone help?
  • wingman08wingman08 Member Posts: 1

    I have a 2009 with about 20K miles, I have noticed the engine getting a little louder. It sounds like lifters to me. I am far from a mechanic and not 100% sure. My Mother has a 2008 Camry and her car is quieter to me. I guess I need to go to the dealer, but I know the answer already "that is normal"!

    If someone knows of others and fixes, please pass it on.

  • kaboodlekaboodle Member Posts: 5
    thanks for your reply. i do not recall if i mentioned in my original posting that i did go to the local toyota dealer and their top man road tested it and he said it was normal noise. he said the noise was there from the beginning and we just did not hear it. wrong. my wife is not a car person and she heard it and i told him that. as i mentioned it started around 6,000 miles. i drive new cars from dealer to dealer for that dealer and i drove the four cyl. and they did not make that noise. that is why i got the 2009 4 cyl. prior to that i was a 6 cyl. guy. in fact i have a 2007 highlander with a 6 cyl. and it is great. please let me know if you have any luck with your dealer. my e-mail is [email protected] by the way the 4 cly. performs great, except for the noise.
  • hvtec2002hvtec2002 Member Posts: 19
    Does it sound like having the after market air intake?

    My 2003 camry 4 has that kind of noise but I do not have air intake so my machenic replace this part for me and the noise is gone.

    It looks similar to this but i can't find the one for 4 cycl. - lsx_454+fuel_injected_intake_manifold.jpg

    Found it here too:

    Intake manifold that is what they call it.
  • kaboodlekaboodle Member Posts: 5
    i do not know anything about the intake manifold. my noise sounds like a hollow/humming noise and you only hear it when feeding gas from 0 to overdrive and if you down shift. so when applying gas and the car is under pressure it is there. once cruising it is gone. also when idling there is no noise. the car performs perfect exect for the noise that started around the 6,000 mile mark.
  • lokkilokki Member Posts: 1,200
    "I own a camry year 1999 auto with a mileage of 246000. I'm keen to improve my car engine perfomance . I also noticed that the car engine feels'heavier' with reduced acceleration when the air cond is on. Can anyone help??? "

    redcamry - Probably the best things you can do are small things such as replacing your sparkplugs; sparkplug wires; air filter; and replacing your thermostat, unless you know that these things have been within the last few years. These things will improve your performance back towards the level of power it had when new.

    The feeling that the car is heavier with reduced acceleration with the A/C on is fairly normal. The air conditioner compressor uses noticable horsepower when it is operating.

    At 246,000 mile, I would hesitate to go for any form of extreme measure to improve your performance - your engine is pretty well along in life... and just like an 80-year-old man, you can unintentionally kill it if you try to make it run too hard.

    Frankly, a K&N air cleaner and/or a fancy exhaust are not worth the money they'd cost to put on this car. It's possible that your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged at this mileage, and that might be decreasing your performance somewhat, but they're expensive and I wouldn't replace it until you're forced into it.

    Given the number of miles on your car, I'd just put enough money into the drive train to keep it safe and operational for a couple years, and I'd save the performance money for your next vehicle. It's not realistic to plan on this car going much more than 300,000 miles. At 246,000 it's already out-lasted most cars in America.
  • ashayinflaashayinfla Member Posts: 2
    I am about to find and buy a used engine for my 96 camry V6LE. I was told that any V6 96 or 97 camry engine would be compatible, but not the 95's. I do know that they used the same engine in some lexus vehicles, but which models/years? I want to try to extend my search to all available engines so I can find the best bang for the buck. What about other toyotas like trucks or other cars? Thanks.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    engines for 96 Camry

    I checked a manual for timing belts and the book gives all Camry, Avalon, Solara/Camry engines the same from 94 to 2006. Also the Higlander and Sienna are fall into this engine catagory. The engine is the 3MZ. My 93 V6 Camry has the 3VZ.That was the last year for it with the 94 Camry getting the 1MZ, a slightly longer stroke. 3.27 versus 3.24 inches.making it a 183 cid versus 181.It's still a 3.0 liter.

    The local library usually has the Motor manuals with all the engine specs. Our library is under renovation and the Reference books are being stored.

    It seems you could use the block or heads and bolt over any water pump, alternator, and power steering accessories. I think Lexus is rear drive and a totally different animal.It might fit if you check the flywheel or use yours.

    Search my blog: rear wheel drive corolla

    Checking trucks for 92- 94 year the engine is the 3VZ . Its shows the same bore/stroke as the 93 Camry 3MZ. Although compression is less and the HP is 30 less for the truck engine.
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