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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions



  • chevesjchevesj Posts: 2

    my Camry has 96,000 miles on it -- I drive alot for my job. It is not still under factory warranty, but I bought the extended warranty that my dealer strongly pushed. That warranty denied coverage, and Toyota is distancing themselves from the warranty, stating that it is an outside company and nothing to do with them.

    I do have some of my maintenance receipts, but not all. We use a local mechanic for some of our car work, and they are not computerized. I provided Toyota with the name, address and phone number of this mechanic's shop, so they could ensure legitimacy, but this didn't help. My understanding is that some Toyota owners were covered by the company and had their engines replaced, even many with no maintenance records. I believe it actually hurt my case to be honest and provide all of the records that I did have.

    I should have been more viligant about the records, but it never occurred to me that Toyota would have a faulty product, or that they wouldn't stand by the product if something went wrong.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    At this stage of your car's life (post warranty), your beef is with the third-party underwriter of your extended service contract. (Only the automaker can issue an extended warranty. What you have is, in reality, an insurance policy and is not subject to federal warranty rights under the Moss-Magnuson Act. Without receipts for designated time/mileage maintenance, the carrier is effectively telling you, "Too bad - you lose, we win." Next time you purchase a new vehicle, and if you want an extended warranty, make certain that snazzy looking certificate is issued by the automaker and not some fly-by-night paper pusher. Why would your dealer sell a non-factory extended warranty? Simple - half of whatever you paid for what amounts now to bird-cage lining, went directly toward your dealer's bottom line. He would rather sell you one of those policies than the real Toyota deal. Those policies often have more "gotchas" than trick-or-treaters on Halloween night, anyway - some requring dealer service, and automaker fluids and parts for every maintenance item for the duration of the policy. Under Moss-Magnuson, true warranties can not be that restrictive.
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    I would pursue this with Toyota corporate offices and not the local dealership or the extended warranty company. If you did maintain your vehicle as specified, this should not have happened. Toyota's extended policy for the earlier models only required proof of one oil change per year and had unlimited miles. I would push that they offer the same to you. Toyota claims to have made some modifications to the engines in 2002, but I believe they were considered to be minor. There was a "sludge hotline" number to call that you may be able to find in the links I posted previously. Not sure if they are still active, but I would start there. Good luck. I would like to hear how it goes, so keep us posted.
  • The car is a 1997 toyota camry V6, automatic. Bought it in 2001 with 110k on it and now it's about 148k. It always drive fine never a problem with that.

    Last year it got a check engine light and after 1 hour fiddling I got lucky and found a bad vacuum switching valve. After replacing it, it's being ok for half year.

    Since Jan. this year, the check engine light came on intermittently and I got a code of PO773. Now it's getting worse and light stays on almost all the time. Now I have 2 codes -- PO772 and PO773. The code reader seems saying the shift solenoid E stuck on.

    Could somebody tell me where is this solenoid? I guess it's not the solenoid valve inside the transmission, which I have to take off the trans. fluid pan to gain access?? Is the solenoid near the end of the shift lever??

    Could somebody direct me where to look first? Any hints are greatly appreciated. And, if it's the solenoid, how much would it cost? Thanks a lot!!!
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    P 0773 means there is an electrical prob. It could be some chafted wiring. If you know how to work with wires, you may be able to fix that. As for the access,Unfurtunatly, you have to remove the tranny pan to get to it. First undo the electrical connectors to all the solenoids, ussually just one fat connector on the outside of the tranny. Get a haynes manual for reference. Remove the pan and the filter for access then look at the solenoids, a cylindrical shapeded thing with two bolts holding it on, with some wires around it in the area. Remove the bolts to the solenoid that has an E printed on it. If there is no E, contact the Service dep. at Toyota and they can assist you. Solenoids are about 70 bucks for one. If you want a deal, buy a whole new set of solenoids to prevent from future pobs.
  • Hi, penizzle, Thank you very much for your help!!!

    I checked haynes manual and there are 4 shift solenoids for this tranny (A541E)-- no.1, no.2, SL and SLN. As for electrical problem with them. It seems P0753 is for No.1, P0758 is for No.2 and P1765 is for SLN. So I guess solenoid SL is also called solenoid E ????? (There is no code for SL.)

    I'll check outside wiring first and see if there is anything wrong with the wires. If not I will look inside sometime later, don't have time to do it right away. If I keep driving like this, will I further damage anything?? It seems everything is normal, including gas mileage, if you don't look at that nasty yellow light. :)))

    However I couldn't imaging how a wire could be damaged inside the tranny. I changed the tranny fluid strainer 4 years ago but I'm sure I was very careful with the stuff inside.

    Thanks again!!! And any input is welcome!!
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    If there aren't shifting problems, then you dont have a problem. It could have been a quirk in the computer. Reset the light and see if it comes back. If you drive with it like that , there shouldn't be a problem (espesialy if there isn't a solenoid E) :P

    As for the wire, It could get damaged. The heat inside the transmission is really hard on tranny parts. Heat is the main cause of tranny failure.
  • That sounds better!!! :)

    The check engine light goes off then back on in the past a couple of days. Now it's off again. I don't have a code reader to reset the code.

    Something is wrong, maybe not serious. I'll try to find a time to do a painful wiring check. :cry:
  • I just repaired the head gasket on my 99 4 cyl camry. The mechanic replaced all the seals and gaskets and says the engine is as good as new except for the 117K miles already on it. So, I don't want to have this problem again. They said that is was a small oil like into the gasket because the seals were old and starting to show wear with stress point where there was probably a leak causing some and a little over heating. I am now using a Castrol high mileage oil when I change the oil myself (99% of the time). I only have the mechanic change to oil at key inspection times. Should I change the oil I use or do I need to switch to synthetic. Some feedback would definitely help. I get my car back tomorrow.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    IMO, synthetic is unnecessary if you change the oil frequently enough (5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first).

    I don't think the brand is all that important either (see ray_hi's post #765 above), but I use name brands like Havoline (Texaco), Mobil, or Formula Shell. However, be sure the oil is of the correct viscosity (5W-30 for the Camry 4-cylinder, 1997-2006).
  • Thanks for the info. Just got a call from the mechanic, and he thinks the previous mechanic damaged some parts that caused the problem with my head gasket. I will find out what was wrong when I go pick up the car later today. I guess I may get some of my $1400 back after all. :) If it is serious, I guess I will take the mechanic to small claims and reveal the shop name when I get confirmation later today.
  • Hi,
    I have a 98 2.2L I4 Camry. Yesterday when I drive it, the engine died and failed to start suddently. Two hours later, after AAA staff come to towl it, they found that the battery works fine and the engine work again. However after driving for around 30 meters on the road the engine died again.

    Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?

    Now I am very scared to get the car die on the road again.

    Thanks so much!
  • When the car was towed to a car shop, the tech can't repeat or detect the problem. Initially they suggest to replace the battery, but finally they used back it because they think that battery is ok.
  • yankeryanker Posts: 156
    The 97 in question has just under 100 000 miles and we have added smoke treatment from the auto parts store. Is this serious and what should ultimately happen in the way of repairs Also is it common?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It's very common as I understand. Our former '97 4-cylinder had it twice. The first time, at 57K miles, the valve stem seals were replaced in the nick of time under the powertrain warranty.

    Then it happened again at 102K miles -- blue smoke on cold startup (first thing in the morning). I didn't do anything about it this time. I sold the car at 111K miles and disclosed the problem.

    I think it can be ignored as long as it only happens on a cold start. Plus, it shouldn't affect emissions testing.

    I doubt the smoke treatment will be helpful.
  • Hello to all;

    Heading back to the dealer for the 4th time. Had a oil leak associated with the timing chain cover. After a tidy sum thought it was good as new...It has continued to leak all be it less each return trip....Anyone have a similar experience....It is still making a 2 to 3 inch circle every night.....I haven't seen any related discussion....Joe
  • Jack,
    I have 97 2.2 L engine. My car also died on the road yesterday. Can you please tell what was diagonosed with your car?

  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    Change the starter and also have some one check the alternator to see if it is putting out enough voltage and amperage, some time the schrader diodes go bad causing the alternator not to fully charge only a limited charge. The only other possibility is if you start and stop your car several times a day on short trips and dont get on the road for a 20 minutes every so often you could be pulling the battery down from a lot of starts and not re charging the battery by driving the car enough.
  • Hello, All,

    I just registered to seek advice from you. This morning on my way to work, the engine revved up to 5500 rpm when I accelerated from a local road to a state highway. The engine kept running at 5000 rpm with loud noice if I maintained at 60 miles/hr. This has never happened before, I used to see it at 2900 rpm @ 60 miles/hr. I am wondering if you guys know what the problem might be? What need to be done to fix it? It appears that I have to visit an auto shop next week, but I want to get educated here before I visit the auto shop.

    BTW, I drove a 2002 Toyota Camry with ~70k miles now. Thanks for your help!

  • My problem is with my 2001 Toyoto Camry I have only about 31,600 miles, just last week i had front flexible pipe and catalytic converter replaced,corrosion(i live in Montreal, Canada,our winters are deadly and so is salt:) I saw old unit and i could see for myself the corrosion.This seems unusal for a 6yr old car but consider our winters. A day or two later i experienced vibrations in engine especially when i am stopped in drive and brake pedal down,you can feel and hear it. This seems somewhat coincidental that this problem arose after replacing front flexible pipe and CAT-converter doesn't it? My buddy seems to think it is engine mount problem,i know there is one right beside the manifold,the bigger one and another mount on top which is smaller.The fact that one of the engine mounts is close to manifold and Cat converter may be significant.Perhaps they forget to bolt something,or something is rubbing against it.My buddy said it is unlikely it is the bigger engine mount as there is a good bit of space between the two and there would be no need to unloosen mount to get at front flexible and Cat-converter when they replaced it. Can you help me post this message on line ??
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If you trust the place where you got the catalytic converter and pipe replaced, I'd go back and ask them about this new problem. My guess is that it is unrelated, but you never know.
  • hey delray, my garage adjusted a bolt on the newly replaced flexible front-end pipe and cat converter,made sure it wasn't rubbing against anything.Seems better,i had mechanic sit in and told him to grab steering wheel and asked him if he feklt any unusual vibrations,he said no,every car has some vibration,so perhaps it was my paranoia ,but i was sure i felt something out of the ordinary,the mounts are all i guess i will keep on driving....Thx for input :)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    That's good! Keep your fingers crossed!
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    Hello all,

    Our 93 Camry Le 2.2 4cyl with 286,000 miles it driving us nuts. The problem is that whenever the car is placed in drive or reverse and you aren't moving, it vibrates bad, unless you increase the rpm's a little, but even if you rev the engine, it vibrates more than it used to. This is my dad's car and he is an ex mechanic and know pretty much aljl things about cars. He thinks that it might be the balance shafts in the engine, but this car has so many miles, i dont think it's worth it. The engine has never been replaced or had major work done. We know that it isn't misfiring or running rough.

    Here is all of the repairs we have done to try to fix the problem : motor and tranny mounts, plug replacement, all fluids replaced(not for the prob. but just maintenence), and we put a bottle of gum out fuel system cleaner in, all to no avail.

    This car is amazing. In its 13 year and 300,00 mile history, the only repairs we have done, all recent, were drive axles, water pump, radiator, a couple of batteries, front exhaust pipe, and battery cable clamps.

    So what do you guys think??? THis is my car in 5 months and i dont want to give it up.

  • My old '94 Camry with 165k miles had the same problem.

    Someone told me that this issue is common with the 4cyl Camry and it is caused by a bad throttle position sensor.

    I'm not sure this is the solution...maybe some other people can help troubleshoot.
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    thank you, any other suggestions from anyone?
  • This may not be the cause of your vibration. However, I have had a 92 Camry Le 2.2 L.

    Since you have changed all motor and tranny mounts, and if the job was done with reputable parts and labor them I hope we can assume that these items are not part of the problem. A lot of mechanics can tell you that there may be a few causes occuring at the same time to compound a vibration problem. Eliminating one, e.g. replacing the motor mounts and tranny mounts may have fixed some of the vibration. This will be true if the vibration is now less. If the vibration has not reduced then that was not the cause of vibration. Obviously you will need to look somewhere else.

    Firstly:You may want to really rule out if there is no misfiring. The only to really rule this out is to do an exhaust emissions test. If your engine is misfiring due to faulty fuel injectors, throttle valve body, bad air intake manifold air pressure sensor, then it will show up in excessive exhaust carbon emisions(provided your catalytic converter is in good condition). If the car's emission is within specifications or even a little over the emission's specifications(considering the high mileage on your car) , then you can definitely rule out vibration caused by miss firing. Shop around to see how much an emissions test will cost at a reputable garage. Usually, it is affordable.

    Secondly: I am in agreement with your Dad's diagnosis. Since the car is already at 300,000 miles, you or your Dad must have had the car's timing belt changed at least once or twice. Now, this again is a possiblity. That is whether the timing belt was done correctly. When the timing bely is replaced, the new timing belt must be installed with the counter-balancing shaft and cam and crank shafts in exact degrees of angle or position in relationship with each other. Hence, this is why the belt is called a timing belt. If replaced properly, it will ensure that the camshaft, countershaft abd crank shaft are in exact timing with each other. A lot of times, the counter balancing shaft may be off by a few degrees and the balancing of the whole engine is off. The amount of degree off will create a related amount of vibration. Again, I am not suggesting that anybody miss-installed the timing belt. I am merely expressing opinions of what may be the issues of the vibration.

    Thirdly: If you are still using the factory installed timing belt and at 300,000 miles this has not been changed then all I can say is wow!.

    I hope this sheds some light.
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    Thanks, we will take a look at that. We think if that if that happen that it probably happened after we replaced the water pump.

    We just havent gotten to really looked at it yet deeply yet.

    Thanks for the help
  • I've got a 93 Camry, 2.2L Auto, it vibrates at 50mph & up.

    I initially thought it was tires, but no, then engine mounts, not those either, now i'm thinking about transmission but want to be sure before i spend the cash.

    Got any ideas what the problem could be ?

    It revs fine, and a full throttle standing start is also good up to the 50 mph point where it begins to shake about. Backing off the throttle stops the shaking, as does flicking it into neutral.

    I'm not sure where to look next - advice greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 2003 Camry 4 cyl with 18,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 Syn oil, and change my oil every 4,000 miles. I have developed a persistent valve tap noise which appears to be getting worse. I took my car to two Toyota dealers and they both tell me this is normal. The engine also isn't as smooth running as it was a while ago. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you
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