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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions



  • andreeaandreea Posts: 1
    '93Camry,140K miles, not starting once in a while - engine kill switch related to the alarm(?), otherwise running GREAT.

    Car towed a few weeks ago, afterwards noticed shake in the steering wheel that was at times more noticeable then others (alignment?).

    Last week, oil change/liquids topped off. Returned 3days later for car wash that came w/oil change that never got done day of. As soon as car came out, driving WEIRD: lag, noise. Pulled over after 1BLOCK: filled w/white smoke - radiator liquid shooting on top of hood, heat to MAX. Had NOT noticed it running hot, or weird, until pulling out of car wash. By time got it to mechanic (4blocks off), making weird noises, barely dragging. He told me: blown engine. Claims to have done diagnostic (NO CHARGE).

    New mechanic: shorted fuse, blown distributor cap, therm/rad. Says other guy could not have done compression test w/car not starting. Don't want to pay$$$ to fix all, then find out need new engine too. HELP
  • andi3daleandi3dale Posts: 1
    Car suddenly stopped while driving on the highway!! It kinda bogged out, it would turnover but engine would not start. Had to get it towed and had it looked at, they said that the motor was shot and needed replaced. They said they would trade the tow fee and cost to look at it for my title and car because it was gonna cost $4500 to fix it!! I laughed and said no way and took the car home. After it sat for a month or so it started but then we noticed that there is oil in the radiator! Does that mean that the head gasket is blown? Is it worth fixing? Its a 1998 Toyota Camry 4cyl 2.2L with 160000 miles, and I only had it for a little over a year! Im just a bit frustrated and if anyone has any input, advice, or answers please help!!!! I would like to think I can fix this and make the car last another few years but I am not gonna pay $4500!! thanx!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That is what it sounds like, but you don't want to let this thing sit around without resolving (if you want to keep the engine). Oil in the radiator, means there can also be water in the engine. Water in the engine can ruin bearings, pit metal surfaces, etc.

    If you are lucky and nothing else is wrong than the head gaskets, then it would probably be worth fixing (for a 160K mile vehicle). If you end up doing a larger engine job, having to swap the engine out, etc ....I'd personally consider junking it. You'd be investing more money than the car is worth, and there are other alternatives to get another vehicle.
  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Posts: 167
    2001 Camry CE, 5sp, 2.2L 4cyl 95,000 miles. Always changed oil, usually at 2,500 to 3,000. Sold to my sister with 60,000 miles. All maint always done, usually ahead of time. It uses a quart of oil every 1,050 - 1,200 miles. Using 5w30 Castrol Syntec blend at oil changes. Most Toyota dealers in Seattle area switched to that from 'regular' 10w30 a couple years ago. Supposed to be great oil.
    Took it to a local shop to have them check for leaks, they found none. Mechanic said when he started up to move car back out to parking lot he revved engine and saw a touch of blue smoke. I have never seen or smelled ANY. They said the Cat converters work so good now you don't see it anymore. They didn't offer any advice, maybe thought I was smarter than I really am? :)
    I did maybe lug it a bit during the 60,000 miles I had it, but in my opinion it was was one H E double toothpick of a cream puff. Haven't even had to do a brake job yet. Got timing belt changed at 89,000. Changed plugs at 52,000 and 89,000. Used the correct plugs. Have changed the PCV twice. Always use Toyota oil and air filters when do it at home instead of the dealer. Anyway, any thoughts?
    PS it runs GREAT!!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It could be the valve stem seals. This is fairly common, and my '97 Camry with the same engine had this problem. My oil consumption was nil, but there was blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe on a cold start (like first thing in the morning). Mine was fixed under warranty (57K miles).

    Your oil consumption really isn't bad; just keep it topped off, and wait for the problem to get worse. You could go a long time before this happens. The cost to replace the valve stem seals is about $800 to $1,000.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,316
    Is that a high consumption rate for valve stem seals? Could it be a combination of bad valve seals and oil rings worn? Would using something like Rislone oil additive one time that might free up rings help?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • scotty46scotty46 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 LE Automatic 4cyl with about 17k on it, purchased new. As long as I've had this car, there has been a very slight hesitation (periodically) accelerating from a stop. Also, the transmission seems to search for a gear, especially when accelerating from about 20-30MPH. Sometimes it can take 4-5 seconds before it finds the correct gear. Even if I stomp down on the gas when passing a car, it can take a second or two before it downshifts. Have had it in to the dealer and they, of course, say it's "normal". Any suggestions out there?
  • mjtianmjtian Posts: 48
    Hi all,
    I have a 1993 Camry I-4 with 135,000 miles on it. we have always stuck to a strict maintenance schedule. Swapped out spark plugs at 75,000 miles, timing belt & water pump at about 90,000 miles, oil change etc etc.

    I have been noticing random staring problems for over 2 years. It used to happen once in a blue moon. Recently, however, it came back with a vengence. It happened 4 times this morning. I can keep the engine running if I keep my foot on the gas peddle. As soon as I let go, it dies. I ended up having to put it in Neutral to start and quickly shift to drive with the foot on the gas. The funny thing is that as quickly this problem started, its gone. When I got home. I tried to re-start the car 3 times and it seems fine.

    Anyone has any clues with regard to this strange phenonmenon? Thanks.

  • oldguy70oldguy70 Posts: 97
    First, check the fuel filter. You might have had a momentary blockage which cleared itself--but it could be getting close to needing replacement.
    Second, the fuel injection 'spider' may be malfunctioning--plugging or the timing is drifting off.
    If the first fix doesn't help, have your dealer (or a reputable mechanic) look at the rest of the fuel system.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Based on my experience, it could be high consumption just for valve stem seals. But as I noted before, more than 1000 miles per quart isn't too bad, all things considered.

    Back when I had my 75 and 79 Rabbits, VW was trying to claim 1 quart per 400 miles was normal, even when new! Yeah, right!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,316
    >was trying to claim 1 quart per 400 miles

    Now that you remind me, the 1 per 1000 miles isn't terrible from the past years.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Posts: 167
    That's why I don't have a Rabbit. I look at every one that I see on the road and they look like the 'right' vehicle for me. Read on the 'net years ago about oil use, windows falling out, etc, scared me away. But.....
    I do think a quart every 1,000 is too much for that sweet, sweet, little 2.2L rice-burner. Plus, I have to drive 90 mi round trip every week - 10 days to check the oil. Since I started tracking it again, I've changed or had it changed no longer than every 2,000 mi, or a couple hundred sooner. Stays nice and clean on the dip stick, took a couple three changes to get it that way. I may add the Rislone, then change it a couple days/150 mi. later, for a test.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,316
    Rislone is oil with additives. They suggest replacing one quart of new oil with their oil.

    I usually used 1/2 quart. But in your case I would put in 1/2 quart when the oil level is used down after running the oil some. Then change about 500 miles later. Because the Rislone is a 5 weight oil it may use a little more so check frequently.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Posts: 167
    There were a few different kinds of Rislone. I picked the one that seemed right. Not for old cars, ect, just a good engine cleaner. Upper lube, we used to call it. It was pinkish purple, and thin. I added a whole quart. Took just under 500 miles to use a quart on the dipstick. Got the oil changed, 5W30 Castrol Syntec Blend. I'm not going to use any more additives. I tried twice before, dinky cans of cleaner. Justice Brothers or similar. The only thing tempting is a thicker oil. Very tempting. If it sat in my driveway, probably would. At this point, will just continue checking oil level every 7-10 days. My sister doesn't have any road trips planned, so it won't run out, which is the worst case scenario. Money for valve work available in Oct-Nov. Or maybe just a new car. I still don't see any smoke..........
  • rpillairpillai Posts: 4
    I am having 02 Camry XLE with 83k miles, have taken care of the car very well. For the past couple of weeks I feel that I need to apply more pressure on the accelerator and hearing bit louder engine noise. Does anyone has any clue whats happening. Thanks :mad:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    While your experimenting with additives you might try switching to conventional oil. Sometimes engines like conventional over synthetic or blend. One of the advantages of full synthetic or blend over conventional is the longer duration between changes. Your interval frequency is well with in the range of conventional and your discounting the economical savings. :)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Well, as my wife would say, we need more information please. So by all means, please supply more details -- as in is gas mileage down, is the car harder to start, are there any unusual noises, etc?
  • rpillairpillai Posts: 4
    Yes, I noticed that there is small reduction in gas mileage as well. No issue with starting the car or no unusual souund. At low speed only I think the car is giving bit louder engine noise.
  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Posts: 167
    The local (Seattle) Toyota dealers went to Castrol Syntec Blend, 5W-30, from conventional 10W-30, 2-3 years ago. The first time I had the oil changed using the Blend, I thought I heard just the slightest bit of valve train noise driving out of the dealership. That was the first time I ever heard anything, and it has stuck in my mind. The car has never Ticked or Tapped where you could really hear anything loud or obvious.
    I think You are correct, maybe this particular 'unit', and not all '01 2.2L, doesn't like the Blend.
  • bearcrkrdbearcrkrd Posts: 167
    I had the oil changed using Syntec, as mentioned. I bought five quarts of Castrol 10W-30 'Regular' oil to use when adding. I did have over half a quart of Syntec Blend left. Well, it's been 1,500 miles, and that half quart, actually it was more like 2/3 of a quart, is all I have added. It is a touch under full right now.
    So have used 1.2 quarts in 1,500 miles. I have no idea why usage has slowed, am guessing it is warmer overnight, so engine has to work less when cold? I don't think there is too much of a warm-up period before hitting the road, or at least taking it easy for 2-3 minutes or so. Bringing it up and trying to explain just gets percieved as looking down on someone, so umm.... TMI, sorry. :blush:
  • Finally switched to conventional oil. Castrol GTX 10W-30.
    1,575 miles, including a just-completed Interstate & Hwy trip across WA and back in fairly warm temps.
    Used just slightly less than one quart. Like a tenth less, but it is less, and an improvement!
  • I have a 4 cylinder 03 Camry. I can hear the engine noise under light acceleration (about 2000 rpm). I had driven my friend's 94 Camry 4 cylinder with 150000 mi on it, and the engine is quieter than my Camry with only 32000 mi. Is the quality declined or what. I want to hear other Camry owners' opinions about this. Is this just a single case or it is a commom problem amone all 4 cylinder Camry (02~06)

    Thank You for any Suggestions and Opinions
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Has the engine noise increased since the car was new? I have two Camrys with the 4-cylinder engine, one a 2004 and the other a 2005. I don't consider the engines noisy at all, and if anything, quieter than the '97 4-cylinder I used to have.
  • The engine noise doesn't increase. The reason I concern about it because I rided with several of my friends. They own chevy malibu, honda accord, CRV, and toyota corolla. My car is noisier compare to theirs. A lot of people say Toyota's cars are quieter than Honda's and America's cars. But based on my experience it is not always true, especially compare to Honda's.
  • I own a 2005 camry with the 4 cyl engine and it has a humming noise, too. It is very noisy. I am very disappointed, since I purchased the camry because I wanted a quiet car. I had a 1991 corolla before and the engine was much quieter than the camry's. If the humming noise wasn't there it would be a quiet engine. The dealer said the humming is normal. I have put in a complaint to toyota customer service who said they have received other complaints about the humming, but they couldn't tell me what was making the noise. It seems to me to be coming from the exhaust manifold area or perhaps farther down the exhaust pipe. Does anybody know where this noise is coming from? If this noise were gone, I'd have a wonderful car.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Since we can't 'hear' it, hard to try and guess what it is. Is the humming the front radiator fans?

    Does it hum at the speed of the engine? So when you speed up the engine, the humming gets louder/faster? If it does, you can take off the accessory belt for a short period of time, which will determine whether the sound is from 'inside' the engine, or outside on one of the accessories.
  • The humming is not the front radiator fans, which do of course come on periodically while the engine is idleing. The humming noise is most easily audible at idle and it is constant, although not a constant pitch. It is a hollow type of hum, kind of similar to what it sounds like when you blow over the top of an open soda bottle. The noise seems to come from the exhaust manifold area when I am standing over the engine while the car is idleing. It definitely is not coming from behind the engine (between the engine and the firewall).

    The other time I hear a similar noise is when I am on the highway accelerating gradually in high gear at low rpms - say between 2,000 rpm and 2,300 rpm or lower. Once I get above 2,400 rpm (about 70 mph) the noise goes away. This humming is similar in pitch to that of the noise I hear when the engine is idleing, but the pitch rises with the rpm's.

    Finally, the other time I hear the humming is at low speeds after I take my foot off the accelerator and I am coasting. At this time, the humming sounds exactly the same as when the car is idleing.

    Thanks for replying to my message. I hope you can give me some insight into where this noise could be coming from.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Here's what I do to isolate weird engine noises in any of our vehicles. Usually the root cause of the problem ends up being one of the belt driven accessories.

    Let the engine warm up so that the thermostat opens (get it up to operating temperature, but don't let it get real hot because you will be working on it). Take off the accessories serpentine belt - find the belt tensioner and there is usually a wrench attachment point where you put a large wrench on it and take the pressure off of the belt. Remove the belt from the pulley and slowly let loose of the tensioner as if it were going to put pressure back on the belt (but it's not there). Get the belt out of the way from the crankshaft pulley, so you can start the engine and not get anything caught.

    When you start the engine, you will find that either the weird sound continues, or it's stopped. If it is still humming, then the source is either inside the engine, or it is something electrical which is still powered. Usually I find the noise has stopped, which you then know is one of the belt driven accessories or pulley's causing the problem. Turn the engine off (and you don't want to leave it running a long time anyhow as you don't want it to overheat). Now turn each of the pulley accessories by hand, and listen feel for whether they turn smoothly, or bind or make noise. When you find the noisy pulley, you know exactly what to fix. To put the belt back on, line up the belt back onto all the pulleys but the tensioner, apply the wrench to put pressure on the tensioner (allowing the belt to go back into place), slip the belt back on the pulley, and you're done.

    This whole procedure is very easy to do, and doesn't take much time. It wouldn't surprise me if you had a bad pulley on the tensioner itself.
  • I recently had to put my 94 camry up for sale. It had 164,000 miles on it. The car ran perfectly, never had any problems with it at all in the year that I owned it. Always changed oil every 3000 miles. A man came out to look at it, checked it all out in the driveway, asked normal questions, etc... and then drove it down the road for a drive. Within five minutes he was on the phone telling me something terrible happened to my car. He said he put it in neutral (its an automatic) and revved it three times cos he wanted to see if it blew oil and something exploded. Well, I got there and there it sat in a pool of oil and a rod busted out the side of the engine. My question is, is it possible for that to happen giving absolutely no indication of a problem before or did this guy red-line my car until it threw the rod? This is a car I drive daily and is quiet as can be. Any help would be appreciated.
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