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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions



  • bouceitbouceit Posts: 1
    well if your alarm is activated, thats why the car wont start because most alarms have starter kills on them meaning it wont give any power to the starter till the alarm is deactivated. it sounds like moisture is leaking into the electrical system somewhere under the hood. check all wire connections and harnesses to make sure there is no bare wires anywhere and all harnesses are tightly locked in place.
  • tenkillertenkiller Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 camry 4cylinder. I was wondering if any one else has been having my problem. At 15000 miles it started to idle rough when stoping or backing. I have ran two tanks with techron fuel addative also have cleaned the butterfly below the air filter with carb cleaner. The dealers have been no help they say its normal. I don't think so I have had lots of 4 cylinders. and they didn't do it. I have had others camrys and didn't have that problem. If anyone knows what to do I would sure appreciate the answer. Thanks
  • kg007kg007 Posts: 1
    I have a 02 camry 4cy, 60000 mi, that I just bought and it does the exact same thing. Haven't had time to try and track it down. Idles fine when completely stopped, but just before stopping completely or backing slowly in reverse the idle changes and becomes rough. runs great otherwise. seemes to be connected to the speed sensor, or trans, as the problem starts and stops the instant the wheels move, or stop. also looking for some help. thanks
  • tenkillertenkiller Posts: 5
    Thanks for the feed back. I got my toyota new and it was fine until it had about 15000 miles. I started to notice the rough idle at times with a/c on. I have took it to both dealers in my area and they tell me its normal. I know they don't know or care. If you figure out the problem I would like to know. The car is great otherwise but the problem makes me want to trade it.
  • magoomagoo Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 camry wagon, 2.2 4cyl. The idle speed drops too low after sustained running before adjusting to the correct idle rpm. This condition is at its worst after a 30 minute highway run and then stopping at a traffic light. The motor trys to idle at 400 rpm on the verge of stalling. Later, it will adjust to on and off the gas driving and run fine. Is there a sensor or idle speed motor that may be getting lazy? Thanks a million for any input.
  • shoshanashoshana Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 4 cyl Camry SE. Lastnight we went to start the car and it wouldn't start. We had the car jumped and the car started. However, it died a few minutes later. We had it jumped again and and it ran for long enough to get us home. Once we arrived home we turned it off and tried to turn it on again - it is dead again. I read the previous posts about the ECU unit failing. Is the ECU unit different in the 4 Cyl. Vs. the V6? I am not the most knowledgable person about these things so I apologize if I sound stupid. I just don't want to end up spending a ton of money on this car if I don't absolutely need to do so. We plan to bring the car to the dealership later today. Anyone have any advice? Those of you who are having these problems, are you replacing the Camry and if so, with what type of car?

    We also have a 2004 Sienna XLE. Should we expect the same issue with it? If so, how do we go about preventing it?

    Thank you for your time and your help!!

    All the Best,
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Don't jump to conclusions about major problems. Your battery is probably shot. No big deal if that is all it is.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    ...just changed my 02s battery...tire guy noticed corrosion on terminal and post on battery was in bad shape...anyway, it was four years old.
  • shoshanashoshana Posts: 2
    Yeah... the terminal and post was corroded badly on ours too. The dealer said to use Coke (who knew) to clean it. That worked but we still needed a jump. Is your 02 an SE as well? Did changing the battery seem to solve the problem for you?
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    You can go to your local parts store and buy felt rings that go over your terminals to keep down the corrosion they are red and green in color and they only cost a couple of dollars these work great keeping the battery clean. When your battery starts approaching about 3-4 years of use dump it. As the battery get older it dosen't hold a charge as well and I hear it causes more work for the alternator to keep charging the battery when it is weak possibly the alternator to have a shorter life. You can also buy a tool for about 3-4 dollars that cleans the battery post or you can use baking soda to clean cable who are really bad by putting the cables into the baking soda and letting them dry this will help until you can put in battery cables.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi All. the other night in my 99 camry the check engine light came on as I started the car. The gear indicator in the gauge cluster stays put in the "R" position no matter what gear I am in and my reverse lights are constantly on...I am guessing this is the neautral safety switch? If so any ideas how much a new switch would cost me?.....thanks
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    First, get your check engine light diagnosed and taken care of, that way any problems will be eliminated. The Nuetral saftey switch is part of the actuall shifter on your model on the transmission. Although that may not be the problem because if that is sensing reverse all the tine, it wouldnt allow the engine to crank over when the ignition is turned to start.
  • cal1218cal1218 Posts: 2
    I have a '98 Camry that as of today will not start. A couple of days ago I went out to start it and could hear a clicking/rattling noise under the hood. I didn't move or drive the car that day, just left it as is.
    Ok today, I go out and it did start, however after driving just a few feet it died. Now it will still turnover, but it is not connecting at all. We had to push it back to get it back in the parking spot.
    I called a Toyota dealer (of course saying I have to bring it in) but also stated it could be the battery.
    I've never had a problem before. Just a sudden thing??!!

    Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?

    Thanks so much!
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    If the engine is turning over, you need to check the following. Check the fuel pressure, strong spark and good compression. Do the fuel pressure check first since the symptoms are sudden, i'm leaning towards a fuel pump problem.
  • chevesjchevesj Posts: 2
    :sick: Does anyone have information about a sludge problem with the 2003 Toyota Camry? I have a car in the shop at the Toyota dealership after the check engine light came on and the car suddenly started making a loud rattlingg noise. The dealership has told me that there is sludge in the engine, and that it is my fault for not properly maintaining the car, even though I have had regular oil changes. They say it is a $7-8 thousand repair! help or advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated. :mad:
  • cal1218cal1218 Posts: 2
    Thanks! Ugghhh... fuel pump problem. Sounds costly. I am going to have those other things checked as well. Hopefully, it's something that doesn't cost me an arm & a leg.
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    do you have all the receipts from the oil changes and if so you can show the dealer that the oil has been changed regularly if not then it might be expensive to fix. Do you just drive a couple miles a day and didn't rack up many miles a year some people do this an build up sludge from not running the car on the highway at least once a week for about 10-15 miles to get the water vapor out of the engine which causes sludge. You can also go to the regional office of toyota if you have all the receipts for the oil changes and I heard that some engines had sludge problems a while back not sure what year toyota had the problem with the engines you can probably look on google on toyota recalls for sludge problems???? good luck. :shades:
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    Fuel pump problems I heard can be sometimes cause from letting your tank run near empty a lot causing the fuel pump which is in the gas tank to run hot due to what I hear the gas keeps the fuel pump cool and it last a long time. I have put on 385,000 miles on a toyota cressida and 200,000 miles on a camry twice and never had a fuelpump problem a toyota tech told me always keep your gas tank above a quarter tank and the fuel pump should last a long time. I don't say this is the problem with your fuel pump I just thought I would pass along the tidbit from a tech a toyota.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Deinitely call the Toyota Home Office.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "Does anyone have information about a sludge problem with the 2003 Toyota Camry? I have a car in the shop ... The dealership has told me that there is sludge in the engine, and that it is my fault for not properly maintaining the car, even though I have had regular oil changes."

    "Regular" defined by how many miles between motor oil changes? Toyota has acknowledged sludging issues with the 3.0L V6 and 2.2L I4 Camry motors for model years 1996-2001 according to Wards Auto Info Line and will repair/replace engines at company expense for up to eight years, unlimited mileage, as long as the owner can present evidence of at least one oil change per year. Since yours is an '03 model, your Camry may not qualify under that campaign. You'll only find out by contacting Toyota USA whether the company will "grandson" you into that campaign. With model year 2002, Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump. The claim was doing that fixed the original problem. Starting in 2002, Toyota also shortened the recommended oil change mileage intervals - I believe down to 5,000 miles for normal service and 3,000 miles for severe service - someone correct me if that's wrong.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Out of curiosity (since I had one of the "sludger" engines -- the 2.2-liter in my former 1997 Camry), I was wondering if you have a source or link for your statement that "Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump." It makes sense, but I've never seen it documented.

    I never had sludge -- the car was very reliable, but I changed the oil on a 5000-mile schedule, and reduced it to 3000-4000 miles after the sludge story broke.

    Toyota's recommended oil change interval wasn't reduced to 5000 miles (or 6 months, whichever came first) until the 2004 model year, IIRC, and there is no severe service interval of 3000 miles.
  • bmailmanbmailman Posts: 1
    Magoo- I have a 1995 Camry that did the exact same thing to me last night, I just got the oil changed and filled the gas tank and can't imagine why this would occur. Did you ever receive an answer? please email me
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    210 delray, I think you can find that information on the redesign of the engine head in several of the articles that came out about the sludge problem back in 2002. I think Automotive News is one source for this info. It was also discussed in the Engine Sludge forum here on Edmunds at around the same time (there is an old, archived forum that was started by a Toyota rep to discuss the problem when they first came up with the extended warranty to cover the sludge issue tmsusa1, "Engine Sludge/Oil Gelling--Toyota's Customer Response" ).

    One thing that confuses me, is that back in 2002, Toyota was covering some of the 2002 model year vehicles with the V-6 engine because they did not make the change to the engine head until sometime during early to mid-2002. Now most of the references don't mention that the 2002 models are covered at all.

    Regardless, 2003 models are not covered, but it seems like something Toyota would cover if one can speak to the right person and prove reasonable maintenance.

    chevesi, you didn't mention the mileage on the vehicle or whether it is still under factory warranty.
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    210delray - I found the following article with the mention of the design change:

    “First, the automaker said it has made a running production change to its widely used 3.0-liter V-6 engine that will improve circulation by enabling oil to drain faster into the sump - an apparent acknowledgement that engine design has been at least part of the problem.”

    Also, USA Today ran an article:
  • jessiet62jessiet62 Posts: 2
    Hi all!

    I'm a newbie, and already have a question! I own a 99 Camry Sedan that is having a weird problem. When the engine is cold it won't start. When you turn the key, it just clicks and all the low voltage stuff comes on. After about 3-4 turns, the engine will usually turn over, but sometimes it just turns over half-way. We've already replaced the battery and connections. I'm fearing that all this leaves is the starter, and was just wondering if anybody else out there had any suggestions before I spend a chunk of money!

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take the car to a local autoparts store (Pep BOys, Autozone, etc), who can do a free battery/alternator check.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "...I was wondering if you have a source or link for your statement that 'Toyota enlarged the oil return galleries in the heads and block to facilitate return flow of heated oil back to the cooler sump.'..."

    Posted on BITOG a couple of years ago quoting Toyota TSBs someone had looked up at the height of the Toyota "sludgemonster" controversy. I don't have any more information than that. The relevant posts are archived and can be searched though.
  • jessiet62jessiet62 Posts: 2
    I did that the other day. Since the car wasn't cold, it started right up. We did replace the battery just last week, so that can't be it. It also is holding a charge, and all the low-wattage stuff comes on when the engine doesn't roll over.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well typically the pieces that cause your type of problems are:
    - Battery, when the engine is cold it is harder to turn over, at the same time when the air/battery temperature is colder the batteries output is less. Those two factors put the largest strain on the battery, and hence batteries start to show signs of failing during the winter months.
    - Alternator, which has a set of diodes in it. Could be that one of your diodes has failed, which an autoparts store check can find the maximum current output of your alternator to see if it is at it's rated output.
    - Starter motor, which has a solenoid relay on it. When the solenoid is energized by the key switch, it closes a heavyduty set of contacts enabling a large amount of current to drive the starter motor.
    - The battery cables, and connections. Over the years if you've had corrosion on your connectors, the corrosion can spread up into the cable itself, creating failures/resistance in the cable. Corrosion can be found on the battery side of the cables, but I'd also clean and check the tightness of connections on the solenoid (with battery disconnected, of course). If you have corrosion, and your cables are long enough, you can cut it back until you get to clean metal, and put new connectors on them. If not long enough, you have to replace the cables. Also need to make sure the starter bolts are tight, that's where the negative (ground) circuit is made.

    If all of these are okay, then I would look for something wrong on the engine itself which is providing soo much resistance that the starter isn't strong enough to overcome it (for instance as example, an airconditioner pump that isn't turning and frozen). But you haven't mentioned that you have any other symptoms (like belts squealing, grinding noises, devices not working,etc), and things are working when the engine is warm.

    If these are beyond your technical comfort zone capabilities, get it to your local reputable service dept.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Thanks for the advice. I shifted the car into gear earlier in the week and the chk engine light went out as did the reverse lights....
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