I finally, tracked down the source of my virbation / front end shaking problem.
i tested the car on a dyno @ 70 mph & had a look underneath to see what was going on, the problem ? CV joints. I was amazed - never heard of - or come across a bad one - that does not present as clicking at full steering lock & only at speed in a straight line.
i've replaced them both & hey presto, perfect result.
So beware, not all CV joints fail as we've all been taught to expect.
I recently received a legal notice regarding the oil gel problems on Toyota and Lexus cars, which including camry from year 97 to year 99. My camry is 97 model. The toyota customer center told me that I can bring my camry to the nearest dealer to diagose if there is any oil gel problem and they can fix it for the problems related to oil gel, and not paying any other problems including diagnosing fee. Can anybody advise me how to diagnose by myself if my camry has oil gel problem or not?
The answer to your inquiry is fully documented at Post#2246 in the following forum entitled:..."Toyota Camry - Basic maintenance questions (oil changes, fluids, etc.)"
It's actually post #246. I had a 1997 Camry (no sludge), so I'm familiar with the issue and the fix.
But the free fix was limited to 8 years (no mileage limit). Unless your Camry was first put into service in Nov. 1998 (unlikely), you're beyond the time limit.
Have you had the car since new? Has its oil and filter been changed regularly? If so, there's likely no problem -- after all the car's still running (fine?), and sludge usually manifests itself much sooner.
Even if you're not the original owner, the fact that the car is still going after 10 years is a good sign.
Of course, to be sure, you could pull the valve cover. But unless you're confident of what you are doing, you'll have to pay someone else to do it!
Sorry about the wrong post #---it's 246, not 2246!! Must have lingered a bit too long on the no.2, because it printed twice. 210Delray is correct-chances are you don't have to worry if you've been the least bit diligent about oil changes. There was a lot more fiction than fact on that issue, and the actual number of occurrences was quite low after all the furor died down. Turned out it was simply a case of not enough oil changing in most cases. The legal notice you say you received may have to do with a legal action in Alabama or Georgia (I'm not sure which). It was one single action (the only one I know of) which recently culminated in a settlement. Basically the claimants get a fixed engine, and a few lawyers get fees and expenses. It wasn't much of a settlement in actual fact, unless you happen to be one of the lawyers!
I have a 1997 Camry I'm sure has the problem since I have asked Toyota service for help with smoking from tailpipe as of two years ago, recently getting very smokey. They just kept telling me some smoke from tailpipe is normal and doesn't mean anything. This summer it became embarassing and I called a local non-Toytota shop that said if it is driving okay, there was no way to diagnose it, so now this and I am passed the 8 years of course. Any suggestions. I'm sure they made no note of my requests for help for this since they "blew" off significance of problem. I joined an online car help group to discuss problem this past summer to try to diagnose it myself but couldn't determine what color it was. I did the hand behind the tailpipe test to determine if it was water or oil and my hand was not wet afterward so figured it was oil but couldn't determine the color and since I drive very little I had no low levels of oil or antifreeze or anything else so I was stuck as far as diagnosing it myself, until I got this notice yesterday. I also had engine trouble light come on a couple of years ago which is about when the smoke appeared and I took it immediately to Toyota where they rigged it up to their computer and said they found nothing wrong with it, so just shut the engine trouble light off, explaining that sometimes it goes on and there is no problem.
If it's blue smoke and occurs on startup, you likely have bad valve stem seals (I'm assuming you have the 4-cylinder engine). This is not the same problem as sludge.
Check engine light came on...mechanic says we need to change egr valve ($250-$300) per computer diagnosis. Also, suggested that this is no guarantee that the check engine light will not come back on once the valve is replaced and computer alert is reset; Worst case scenario could mean the circuit connected to the computer could be bad or burned-out because of the bad valve and could cost over $1000! Is this possible? What are the repercussions if - 1. nothing is done (needs to pass TX state inspection in a few weeks) 2. Replace valve but don't repair computer circuit if or when diagnosed bad. What could happen for option 1 & 2 above. Suggestions and comments welcome! -O.
i purchased an engine from a junkyard that was a good engine with 70,000 (give or take) miles on it. i had it put in for $1150 and 700 miles later my timing belt went so i took it back to the mechanic and he checked it out and the timing belt had teeth aten from it because apparently it was retarded or w/e. so they replaced it and literally 3 days later it happened again, so now their telling me that apparently the engine is bad, and now its too late for a refund or to get a new engine, what the hell do i do?
Can anyone help? I ahve been quoted $550 to replace my timing belt!! Can anyone give me some advice as to whether im being ripped off or not. Being a female I always feel like i am being over charged. Your advice would be much appeciated!
More info would be helpful. 4-cylinder or V6? Are they replacing the water pump also?
I was at my local dealer the other day, and the sign on the wall said $300 for a timing belt change -- I'm sure this doesn't include the water pump.
Check with independent shops and get recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers. Make sure you get an itemized estimate (at least verbally) so you're comparing the same job.
My engine shakes and its not the plugs, on the highway it looses power a lot of the times i try to accelerate. The shacking does not occur when i first start the car but like 10 seconds later. engine light came on a week later its a 1995 camry and i have no clue where the ombII plug is if this car even has one can anyone help? my email is drewspeed1982@yahoo.com
With 126K miles and no indication of any trouble (engine temp normal, no oil pressure indicator), I heard an engine noise and everything stopped. The engine was determined to have seized and some internal engine failure. Normal maintenance and no issues. Engine replacement is approx the value of the car. Not too happy and wondered if there are any common threads. The engine had not exhibited any sludge indicators (no blue smoke, goo, etc). Timing belt had been done at 65K.
Hi guys today after only 1500 miles my check engine light went on i called the service thay told me check the gaz cap because if its loose the light going on i check it's ok i call them back they schedul an appt for monday now this is my quastion i have just basic warranty should they provide me with loaner or not? Do you guys think its something serious? Did any budy report same problem in 2007 camry 4 cyl? 2oo7 camry 4 cyl made in japan your inputs are appreciated. have a nice weekend
My check engine light came on,..I called Toyota. Then it went off. 2 days later. I brought the car in. They claim it needs a Catalytic converter. ($1,250.00) parts and labor. I worked on cars for 8yrs. 1983-1991. I know cars are different. But my first thought was O2 sensor. I can drive the car, but it will not pass inspection (they say). Anyone with the same problem? let me know...oh yea 93,000 miles on the car..
99 toyota camry. My son's car. The car started overheating, eventually made it to a repair shop. Bad radiator and had a blown head gasket. Cost right at 1450.00 to repair. New radiator, new water pump, valve job, no crack in the head, new plugs. After getting car back from shop my son noticed that the car was hesitating (sluggish) at right lights. He asked the shop why was this and they said it was because of something within the antifreeze (new radiator) that was causing this. Should only last a couple of days. That was yesterday. Also yesterday during the evening the check engine light came on. Any suggestions? Can there be something in the antifreeze to make the car sluggish. The repair shop is 40 minutes from where my son lives.
I worked on cars,.. before computers. But I NEVER heard of Anything with Anti-freeze causing hesitation!! I realized the longer I got away from the car repair service, the worse that field got. I don't trust anyone any more. It's sad because many of them are friends of mine. Well, that's what I thought. My 02 camry was hesitating. Long story short. They mis-diagnost it. They changed a sensor,..after my warranty expired. It took them 20,000 miles to figure it out..Yeah right!! I don't know if your hesitation is the same, or if that year has the same sensors. Good luck.
Yes mine too. I just bought a 2007 Toyota Camry Le 4 cyl. in March 2007. I drove only a few miles and put gas in it and the engine check light went on. I took to the dealer they said that I did not close the gas tank lid tightly enough. I drove again and put gas in it and closed the tank lid as tight as I could, "close with one click" as it said on the gas tank lid. I did that and still the engine light went on again. So I took to the dealer again and they said the same thing. I put gas in it and closed it tight with one click as they said, still the engine light went on again. Does anyone else have same problem ???
Hi bienxanh: You might have a defective gas cap! Ask the dealer to read the codes on this vehicle. It might be that the "check engine light" is being set by something other than the gas cap! Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades:
1999 camery 4 cyl 108 k milage checked under the hood, no leaks, no gas leak under the car. always seems strongest after a short trip from work to home, can any one help>
I don't know, but I wouldn't be parking it in the garage until you figure out what the problem is. At a minimum, leave it parked outside. You don't want those contained fumes igniting and the thing going up in flames catching your house on fire.
I have a 2003 Camry, 26,000 miles and the engine is making a clicking noise. The noise increses in speed with the rpm. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the exhaust manifold, $677 to fix. Could this be right? Isn't that kind of unusual for the exhaust manifold to be a problem with so low miles? Thanks
Well, I'd definitely get a second opinion -- are there any reputable independent shops in your area that you could go to? You might want to check with friends, relatives, or co-workers for recommendations.
26K miles seems unusually early for an exhaust manifold.
Driving a 1998 Camry with the V-6 engine, 95,000 miles. Does anyone know if this engine has the belt or chain, and if belt driven, when should the timing belt/water pump be replaced?
'93Camry,140K miles, not starting once in a while - engine kill switch related to the alarm(?), otherwise running GREAT.
Car towed a few weeks ago, afterwards noticed shake in the steering wheel that was at times more noticeable then others (alignment?).
Last week, oil change/liquids topped off. Returned 3days later for car wash that came w/oil change that never got done day of. As soon as car came out, driving WEIRD: lag, noise. Pulled over after 1BLOCK: filled w/white smoke - radiator liquid shooting on top of hood, heat to MAX. Had NOT noticed it running hot, or weird, until pulling out of car wash. By time got it to mechanic (4blocks off), making weird noises, barely dragging. He told me: blown engine. Claims to have done diagnostic (NO CHARGE).
New mechanic: shorted fuse, blown distributor cap, therm/rad. Says other guy could not have done compression test w/car not starting. Don't want to pay$$$ to fix all, then find out need new engine too. HELP
Car suddenly stopped while driving on the highway!! It kinda bogged out, it would turnover but engine would not start. Had to get it towed and had it looked at, they said that the motor was shot and needed replaced. They said they would trade the tow fee and cost to look at it for my title and car because it was gonna cost $4500 to fix it!! I laughed and said no way and took the car home. After it sat for a month or so it started but then we noticed that there is oil in the radiator! Does that mean that the head gasket is blown? Is it worth fixing? Its a 1998 Toyota Camry 4cyl 2.2L with 160000 miles, and I only had it for a little over a year! Im just a bit frustrated and if anyone has any input, advice, or answers please help!!!! I would like to think I can fix this and make the car last another few years but I am not gonna pay $4500!! thanx!!
That is what it sounds like, but you don't want to let this thing sit around without resolving (if you want to keep the engine). Oil in the radiator, means there can also be water in the engine. Water in the engine can ruin bearings, pit metal surfaces, etc.
If you are lucky and nothing else is wrong than the head gaskets, then it would probably be worth fixing (for a 160K mile vehicle). If you end up doing a larger engine job, having to swap the engine out, etc ....I'd personally consider junking it. You'd be investing more money than the car is worth, and there are other alternatives to get another vehicle.
2001 Camry CE, 5sp, 2.2L 4cyl 95,000 miles. Always changed oil, usually at 2,500 to 3,000. Sold to my sister with 60,000 miles. All maint always done, usually ahead of time. It uses a quart of oil every 1,050 - 1,200 miles. Using 5w30 Castrol Syntec blend at oil changes. Most Toyota dealers in Seattle area switched to that from 'regular' 10w30 a couple years ago. Supposed to be great oil. Took it to a local shop to have them check for leaks, they found none. Mechanic said when he started up to move car back out to parking lot he revved engine and saw a touch of blue smoke. I have never seen or smelled ANY. They said the Cat converters work so good now you don't see it anymore. They didn't offer any advice, maybe thought I was smarter than I really am? I did maybe lug it a bit during the 60,000 miles I had it, but in my opinion it was was one H E double toothpick of a cream puff. Haven't even had to do a brake job yet. Got timing belt changed at 89,000. Changed plugs at 52,000 and 89,000. Used the correct plugs. Have changed the PCV twice. Always use Toyota oil and air filters when do it at home instead of the dealer. Anyway, any thoughts? PS it runs GREAT!!
It could be the valve stem seals. This is fairly common, and my '97 Camry with the same engine had this problem. My oil consumption was nil, but there was blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe on a cold start (like first thing in the morning). Mine was fixed under warranty (57K miles).
Your oil consumption really isn't bad; just keep it topped off, and wait for the problem to get worse. You could go a long time before this happens. The cost to replace the valve stem seals is about $800 to $1,000.
Is that a high consumption rate for valve stem seals? Could it be a combination of bad valve seals and oil rings worn? Would using something like Rislone oil additive one time that might free up rings help?
I have a 2006 LE Automatic 4cyl with about 17k on it, purchased new. As long as I've had this car, there has been a very slight hesitation (periodically) accelerating from a stop. Also, the transmission seems to search for a gear, especially when accelerating from about 20-30MPH. Sometimes it can take 4-5 seconds before it finds the correct gear. Even if I stomp down on the gas when passing a car, it can take a second or two before it downshifts. Have had it in to the dealer and they, of course, say it's "normal". Any suggestions out there?
Hi all, I have a 1993 Camry I-4 with 135,000 miles on it. we have always stuck to a strict maintenance schedule. Swapped out spark plugs at 75,000 miles, timing belt & water pump at about 90,000 miles, oil change etc etc.
I have been noticing random staring problems for over 2 years. It used to happen once in a blue moon. Recently, however, it came back with a vengence. It happened 4 times this morning. I can keep the engine running if I keep my foot on the gas peddle. As soon as I let go, it dies. I ended up having to put it in Neutral to start and quickly shift to drive with the foot on the gas. The funny thing is that as quickly this problem started, its gone. When I got home. I tried to re-start the car 3 times and it seems fine.
Anyone has any clues with regard to this strange phenonmenon? Thanks.
First, check the fuel filter. You might have had a momentary blockage which cleared itself--but it could be getting close to needing replacement. Second, the fuel injection 'spider' may be malfunctioning--plugging or the timing is drifting off. If the first fix doesn't help, have your dealer (or a reputable mechanic) look at the rest of the fuel system.
Based on my experience, it could be high consumption just for valve stem seals. But as I noted before, more than 1000 miles per quart isn't too bad, all things considered.
Back when I had my 75 and 79 Rabbits, VW was trying to claim 1 quart per 400 miles was normal, even when new! Yeah, right!
That's why I don't have a Rabbit. I look at every one that I see on the road and they look like the 'right' vehicle for me. Read on the 'net years ago about oil use, windows falling out, etc, scared me away. But..... I do think a quart every 1,000 is too much for that sweet, sweet, little 2.2L rice-burner. Plus, I have to drive 90 mi round trip every week - 10 days to check the oil. Since I started tracking it again, I've changed or had it changed no longer than every 2,000 mi, or a couple hundred sooner. Stays nice and clean on the dip stick, took a couple three changes to get it that way. I may add the Rislone, then change it a couple days/150 mi. later, for a test.
Rislone is oil with additives. They suggest replacing one quart of new oil with their oil.
I usually used 1/2 quart. But in your case I would put in 1/2 quart when the oil level is used down after running the oil some. Then change about 500 miles later. Because the Rislone is a 5 weight oil it may use a little more so check frequently.
There were a few different kinds of Rislone. I picked the one that seemed right. Not for old cars, ect, just a good engine cleaner. Upper lube, we used to call it. It was pinkish purple, and thin. I added a whole quart. Took just under 500 miles to use a quart on the dipstick. Got the oil changed, 5W30 Castrol Syntec Blend. I'm not going to use any more additives. I tried twice before, dinky cans of cleaner. Justice Brothers or similar. The only thing tempting is a thicker oil. Very tempting. If it sat in my driveway, probably would. At this point, will just continue checking oil level every 7-10 days. My sister doesn't have any road trips planned, so it won't run out, which is the worst case scenario. Money for valve work available in Oct-Nov. Or maybe just a new car. I still don't see any smoke..........
I am having 02 Camry XLE with 83k miles, have taken care of the car very well. For the past couple of weeks I feel that I need to apply more pressure on the accelerator and hearing bit louder engine noise. Does anyone has any clue whats happening. Thanks :mad:
While your experimenting with additives you might try switching to conventional oil. Sometimes engines like conventional over synthetic or blend. One of the advantages of full synthetic or blend over conventional is the longer duration between changes. Your interval frequency is well with in the range of conventional and your discounting the economical savings.
Well, as my wife would say, we need more information please. So by all means, please supply more details -- as in is gas mileage down, is the car harder to start, are there any unusual noises, etc?
Yes, I noticed that there is small reduction in gas mileage as well. No issue with starting the car or no unusual souund. At low speed only I think the car is giving bit louder engine noise.
The local (Seattle) Toyota dealers went to Castrol Syntec Blend, 5W-30, from conventional 10W-30, 2-3 years ago. The first time I had the oil changed using the Blend, I thought I heard just the slightest bit of valve train noise driving out of the dealership. That was the first time I ever heard anything, and it has stuck in my mind. The car has never Ticked or Tapped where you could really hear anything loud or obvious. I think You are correct, maybe this particular 'unit', and not all '01 2.2L, doesn't like the Blend.
Comments
i tested the car on a dyno @ 70 mph & had a look underneath to see what was going on, the problem ? CV joints. I was amazed - never heard of - or come across a bad one - that does not present as clicking at full steering lock & only at speed in a straight line.
i've replaced them both & hey presto, perfect result.
So beware, not all CV joints fail as we've all been taught to expect.
I recently received a legal notice regarding the oil gel problems on Toyota and Lexus cars, which including camry from year 97 to year 99. My camry is 97 model. The toyota customer center told me that I can bring my camry to the nearest dealer to diagose if there is any oil gel problem and they can fix it for the problems related to oil gel, and not paying any other problems including diagnosing fee. Can anybody advise me how to diagnose by myself if my camry has oil gel problem or not?
Many thanks!
But the free fix was limited to 8 years (no mileage limit). Unless your Camry was first put into service in Nov. 1998 (unlikely), you're beyond the time limit.
Have you had the car since new? Has its oil and filter been changed regularly? If so, there's likely no problem -- after all the car's still running (fine?), and sludge usually manifests itself much sooner.
Even if you're not the original owner, the fact that the car is still going after 10 years is a good sign.
Of course, to be sure, you could pull the valve cover. But unless you're confident of what you are doing, you'll have to pay someone else to do it!
210Delray is correct-chances are you don't have to worry if you've been the least bit diligent about oil changes. There was a lot more fiction than fact on that issue, and the actual number of occurrences was quite low after all the furor died down. Turned out it was simply a case of not enough oil changing in most cases.
The legal notice you say you received may have to do with a legal action in Alabama or Georgia (I'm not sure which). It was one single action (the only one I know of) which recently culminated in a settlement. Basically the claimants get a fixed engine, and a few lawyers get fees and expenses. It wasn't much of a settlement in actual fact, unless you happen to be one of the lawyers!
I joined an online car help group to discuss problem this past summer to try to diagnose it myself but couldn't determine what color it was. I did the hand behind the tailpipe test to determine if it was water or oil and my hand was not wet afterward so figured it was oil but couldn't determine the color and since I drive very little I had no low levels of oil or antifreeze or anything else so I was stuck as far as diagnosing it myself, until I got this notice yesterday.
I also had engine trouble light come on a couple of years ago which is about when the smoke appeared and I took it immediately to Toyota where they rigged it up to their computer and said they found nothing wrong with it, so just shut the engine trouble light off, explaining that sometimes it goes on and there is no problem.
Please see posts #148 and #149 in this thread.
Is this possible? What are the repercussions if - 1. nothing is done (needs to pass TX state inspection in a few weeks) 2. Replace valve but don't repair computer circuit if or when diagnosed bad.
What could happen for option 1 & 2 above.
Suggestions and comments welcome!
-O.
Your advice would be much appeciated!
I was at my local dealer the other day, and the sign on the wall said $300 for a timing belt change -- I'm sure this doesn't include the water pump.
Check with independent shops and get recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers. Make sure you get an itemized estimate (at least verbally) so you're comparing the same job.
Do you guys think its something serious?
Did any budy report same problem in 2007 camry 4 cyl?
2oo7 camry 4 cyl made in japan
your inputs are appreciated.
have a nice weekend
You might have a defective gas cap! Ask the dealer to read the codes on this vehicle. It might be that the "check engine light" is being set by something other than the gas cap!
Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades:
26K miles seems unusually early for an exhaust manifold.
(I didn't with my '97 Camry 4-cylinder.)
Car towed a few weeks ago, afterwards noticed shake in the steering wheel that was at times more noticeable then others (alignment?).
Last week, oil change/liquids topped off. Returned 3days later for car wash that came w/oil change that never got done day of. As soon as car came out, driving WEIRD: lag, noise. Pulled over after 1BLOCK: filled w/white smoke - radiator liquid shooting on top of hood, heat to MAX. Had NOT noticed it running hot, or weird, until pulling out of car wash. By time got it to mechanic (4blocks off), making weird noises, barely dragging. He told me: blown engine. Claims to have done diagnostic (NO CHARGE).
New mechanic: shorted fuse, blown distributor cap, therm/rad. Says other guy could not have done compression test w/car not starting. Don't want to pay$$$ to fix all, then find out need new engine too. HELP
If you are lucky and nothing else is wrong than the head gaskets, then it would probably be worth fixing (for a 160K mile vehicle). If you end up doing a larger engine job, having to swap the engine out, etc ....I'd personally consider junking it. You'd be investing more money than the car is worth, and there are other alternatives to get another vehicle.
Took it to a local shop to have them check for leaks, they found none. Mechanic said when he started up to move car back out to parking lot he revved engine and saw a touch of blue smoke. I have never seen or smelled ANY. They said the Cat converters work so good now you don't see it anymore. They didn't offer any advice, maybe thought I was smarter than I really am?
I did maybe lug it a bit during the 60,000 miles I had it, but in my opinion it was was one H E double toothpick of a cream puff. Haven't even had to do a brake job yet. Got timing belt changed at 89,000. Changed plugs at 52,000 and 89,000. Used the correct plugs. Have changed the PCV twice. Always use Toyota oil and air filters when do it at home instead of the dealer. Anyway, any thoughts?
PS it runs GREAT!!
Your oil consumption really isn't bad; just keep it topped off, and wait for the problem to get worse. You could go a long time before this happens. The cost to replace the valve stem seals is about $800 to $1,000.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have a 1993 Camry I-4 with 135,000 miles on it. we have always stuck to a strict maintenance schedule. Swapped out spark plugs at 75,000 miles, timing belt & water pump at about 90,000 miles, oil change etc etc.
I have been noticing random staring problems for over 2 years. It used to happen once in a blue moon. Recently, however, it came back with a vengence. It happened 4 times this morning. I can keep the engine running if I keep my foot on the gas peddle. As soon as I let go, it dies. I ended up having to put it in Neutral to start and quickly shift to drive with the foot on the gas. The funny thing is that as quickly this problem started, its gone. When I got home. I tried to re-start the car 3 times and it seems fine.
Anyone has any clues with regard to this strange phenonmenon? Thanks.
Mike
Second, the fuel injection 'spider' may be malfunctioning--plugging or the timing is drifting off.
If the first fix doesn't help, have your dealer (or a reputable mechanic) look at the rest of the fuel system.
Back when I had my 75 and 79 Rabbits, VW was trying to claim 1 quart per 400 miles was normal, even when new! Yeah, right!
Now that you remind me, the 1 per 1000 miles isn't terrible from the past years.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I do think a quart every 1,000 is too much for that sweet, sweet, little 2.2L rice-burner. Plus, I have to drive 90 mi round trip every week - 10 days to check the oil. Since I started tracking it again, I've changed or had it changed no longer than every 2,000 mi, or a couple hundred sooner. Stays nice and clean on the dip stick, took a couple three changes to get it that way. I may add the Rislone, then change it a couple days/150 mi. later, for a test.
I usually used 1/2 quart. But in your case I would put in 1/2 quart when the oil level is used down after running the oil some. Then change about 500 miles later. Because the Rislone is a 5 weight oil it may use a little more so check frequently.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I think You are correct, maybe this particular 'unit', and not all '01 2.2L, doesn't like the Blend.