Buick Regal Electrical Problems



  • jcurran44jcurran44 Member Posts: 1
    I have found many people on here that are having issues with the electrical system. My issues started with the dash lights going out. Then the ABS light came on, then the traction control light, and soon after the service engine soon light.
    At that point we parked the car and have been trying to tackle the issues for the past year. The issue grew into a more serious situation when the turn signal started to kill the engine.
    Then we started to hear a loud electrical growl from under the dash. The noise was coming from a white control box/circuit board mounted to the drivers side foot well. Not sure what it does, but may need to replace. Along with the noise, the dash goes haywire, flipping from imperial to metric units and gauges going back and fourth.
    From what I have read on here the problem may be the Ignition switch. One more question I have is about a chip mounted under the dash, does anyone else have this. It looks like a non-factory modification. The chip is spliced into the main wire harness. A thick yellow wire and some others. What may this be?
    I need to sell the car for $$ on another project, but would like to address as many issues as I can before selling. I also can't seam to keep air in the tires due to the chrome plating flaking off of the rims and not allowing the tire to seal.

    GREAT CAR, but some issues after 100k miles (I have 186k)
  • goodnewsautogoodnewsauto Member Posts: 13
    Is it not funny 1 part causes all that trouble...IT is the turn signal switch......

    I have seen damage to the ignition too but you seem to be diagnoising the turn signal switch issue....If you want I can give you step by step instructions...Get the old one out of a junk yard and bam for 25$ you will be fixed
  • scotty801scotty801 Member Posts: 5
    Any idea where you can get these resistors? I have the same problem. I removed cluster and the resistors are overheated and coming loose from the board.
  • joe862joe862 Member Posts: 4
    I just got this 1996 regal 6 cylinder. When you idle the fans wont turn on. I bypassed the control switches and can get them on. My question is, is the coolant level sensor the same as the heat sensor that tells the control units to send power to the fans?
  • mrsmelissammrsmelissam Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering, have you ever figured out what's wrong? I have the same problem with my 99 buick regal.
  • regal99regal99 Member Posts: 4
    Actually i"ve been told i need to replace the turnsignal>>>>it controlsa so much stuff....i'll keep u posted..my brother plans to start on it friday...
  • washbratwashbrat Member Posts: 1
    I have recently aquired a 1990 buick regal 6 cyl with electric seats and windows. I don't know what if anything has ever been done to this car. There were a few times I would take off and before I got 2/10ths of a mile and slowed down for the stop light the car died, the electrical completely shut down, but the engine still accelerated and in a few seconds all the electrical would be back to normal. sometimes I was low on gas but one time I had almost a full tank. My son borrowed it and was driving home when the the car just died going down the freeway, He was out of gas. But the car refused to turn over or make any sound at all for about an hour, then it would turn over. (but of course he was out of gas so it wouldn't run for long very well.) Is it common for this car to do something like this. Is there a connection between low gas and the electrical where the electrical will reset itself after a time?
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    all other gages work, but where it shows the miles on the car, is not lit up,(digital odotometer) can not read how many miles are on car, i put a junk yard one in and it does the same thing,and also the fuel guage is goofy too. anyone have any idea what is wrong??thanks
  • vanhatalovanhatalo Member Posts: 1
    When the engine temperature meter don't work the car don't start and if started the gearbox is jammed on #3. If the temperature meter works, everything is OK. The temp sensor is changed, but it didn't change the problem. Where's the problem?
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    when the key is in the run position, it shows how much gas i have, when the car is moving it goes to full tank, is this a ground to sending unit problem or whole sending unit or something else?
  • lautamalautama Member Posts: 1
    So, Did you ever find the solution to this problem? My Regal is doing the same thing and it's driving me crazy. The left blinker occasionally shuts the car of and other times the car wont start for 5 or 10 minutes.

    Has ANYONE found the solution to this problem?
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    after searching the internet forever, i found the resisters no where, my local radio shack gave me a name of a place, i sent my boyfriend in there, who works in the area about 60 miles from where i live, and they had them. i dont know where you are located, but i think you can go to there web site or call and have them shipped, they are in a pac of 4 for $1.37 ,thats with tax, and theres a guy on e-bay fixing them for $150.00, I soldered them in there, and my odo. is as bright as can be,the four that work the odo are the ones in the top right corner,(the 4 right in a row,i dont know what the others operate, maybe replace all 10 for that price. Abel Electronics 27201 Harper Ave., St. Clair Shores, MI 48081. the part # on my recept is, 1/4 W 150 OHM 2%,# 768249047520, hope this helps
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    no i have not checked it out , i've been working on the odo. light, which i fixed...but i have heard check the ground to the sending unit or the float is not working properly, and will have to replace the whole sending unit. i'll let you know if i figure it out , if you figure it first let me know, and if your odo light does not light up, let me know i know how to fix that for $1.37 and about a half hour of your time, simple fix.
  • regal99regal99 Member Posts: 4
    let me begin about the ordeal...i had the towed to the dealer..they had the car 3 and half weeks..finally they called and said it was a SHORTED RELAY STARTER....Then the car started cutting off again...next they replaced the IGNITION SWITCH....bingo...the car started and cut off just fine. i was out of $686.89 for all that...basically i paid for LABOR:(........had the car for 2dys the darn trans started acting funny...i could hardly get it out of park...i was so feed up with the dealedrship ordeal..i sold the car to carmax.....i hope this info help you...
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    thanks for the info, mine don't have a problem with not coming out of park or any trans issues, but i've owned it for only a few weeks.but i have heard about the shift lock on the side of the shifter going bad, maybe that was your issue. the guy that owned it before me did take it to the dealer and have the ignition switch done for $700.00. i guess all the lights come on and eventually will not start.so hopefully i'm good on that for awhile. I dont go to the I fix it myself, just takes time researching somethings and patience.
  • 1crazytruck1crazytruck Member Posts: 2
    You can get the resistors at Radio Shack. They are 150 ohm. There is a very good video on YouTube showing how to make the repair. I did mine start to finish and it took about 45 mins. ;)
  • scotty801scotty801 Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like that is what I'm looking for. Do you have the link on youtube? I can seem to find the one I need.
  • hawk1967hawk1967 Member Posts: 2
    I just found this forum and read a number of posts. This is my situation. My son bought a 1999 regal with 100,000 plus miles. Alot of electrical things don't work, like the horn, fog lights, ac clutch and electric cooling fans. All the fuses are good and I have replaced the micro relays and still no luck. I ran a feed from the fuse box to the cooling fans so they run when the car is running, and that was ok. But, the next day, the car wouldn't start. When the key is turned to the run position, everything comes on, but when you turn it to start, everything blanks out. You have to mess with it for awhile till it decided it wants to run. THEN, while driving, if I put the left turn signal on, it kills the motor. Now I have had problems turning the ignition switch back to the off position, so I am wondering if it isn't a combination of the ignition switch and a faulty turn signal. Has anyone CORRECTED these problems, as I have read alot of issues that are the same?
  • tbcrvtbcrv Member Posts: 3
    Same thing just happened today. I bought a 1999 regal new; has 112000 miles on it; my son drives it now. We just spent $500 on a new sending switch so that the gas gauge reads properly.

    Have you figured out what is wrong yet? My son was on the highway and used his signal to change lanes and the car just shut down.
  • scotty801scotty801 Member Posts: 5
    Yes I also found a web sight that explains how to fix this problem. http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=64416. I got resistors at radio shack. Very easy fix. Hardest thing to do is to get the instrument cluster out.
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    i've heard replace the turn signal switch
  • al3xal3x Member Posts: 1
    Whilst installing a custom cd deck, I had to take off the dash panel. During the installation, there may or may not have been a spark but currently neither my air conditioning control deck or the entire instrument panel works (no fuel, odometer, spedometer, rpm, etc...) but the dimmer, blinker lights do work on the dash. All of these things stopped working even after I had finished the deck install. Any ideas? I'm hoping there are some fuses that need to be replaced. Thanks for any ideas.
  • 2000buickrehab2000buickrehab Member Posts: 11
    Hi all, I own the Regal's twin, the Century, but there seems to be more activity here than over at the Century forum.

    My Century has some issues that you may know how to resolve. The twin cooling fans will not kick on, I checked the battery because of the low voltage safety feature, had a dead cell in a <2 yr old battery, replaced, but still no fans. I can jump straight off the positive to the white fan on the right side, the second fan will not kick on even with a hot feed.
    See next posting for the rest.
  • 2000buickrehab2000buickrehab Member Posts: 11
    The A/C will not engage, the odometer and (PRNDL) will not display, intermittent failure of the "lock" feature on the door and via remote keyless access. is there a relay, ground or inline fuse between the power supply and fuse panel for these lines that I should be looking for?
  • 2000buickrehab2000buickrehab Member Posts: 11
    no current on either side of the 10 Amp fuse located at Rox 4 & 5 of Column A on the fuse panel( Crank Signal, Cluster, BCM), same with the fuse located at Row 5&6 of Column A ( Heated Mirror)
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyMember Posts: 6,182
    Try "Ask the community".
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • twilder2003twilder2003 Member Posts: 2
    All the warning lights came on and then the car died. I was able to crank it right away. Took to the garage and nothing was found when they scanned the computer. I did get a much needed tune up and the wheel bearings were replaced. Drove the car yesterday and the same thing happened again. Only this time it wouldn't crank right away. I looked through the posts but didn;t find the answer to this. Please help!!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    When you say "it wouldn't crank" do you mean when you turn the key the engine would turn over but it wouldn't start or when you hit the key there wasn't any response like the battery was dead?
  • regal99regal99 Member Posts: 4
    on my 1999 buick regal..it sat at the dealership for a whole month..they couldn't figure outwhat was going..bit FINALLY...its running now..they replaced the relay switch ...it ran a lil..then would continue to cut off..then BINGO...they replaced the ignition switch...i have gotten rid of the car now...it needed a trans....hope this helped...and i had the car brand new..so im been thru some of everything with that car..it was my BABY!!!
  • twilder2003twilder2003 Member Posts: 2
    It turned over but wouldn't start. After it sat about 30 minutes it did crank.
  • alexrubenalexruben Member Posts: 1
    not sure if u fixxed problem yet but i had the same problem and just fixxed it today. The ignition switch had a short in it and caused car to die when i would turn blinkers on. bought steering colum from wrecking yard{ lot cheaper } and replaced switch and car runs great. not the key cylinder the little black box under key cylinder with all the wires that run under dash.
  • dobbz007dobbz007 Member Posts: 2
    The intake gaskets where replaced about 3yrs ago I put aprox. 50,000mi on it and they r going again. Why? Could it be the dex-cool If so can you flush the system and put green in? I did the whole ignition switch thing, it seems the engine light is always on. Now its throwin a p0128 code- coolant level,thermostat defective, ect sensor. The heat works good,coolant is full. I disconnected the battery light didnt go off. With the coolant full is it at all possible that havin a small leak (about a gal. a month) From the intake gaskets throw a sensor some how?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    If the intake gaskets are leaking on the outside its not that big of a deal. If they are allowing antifreeze to leak internally it could be catastropic. You would think with all the class action law suits against them because of their lame product GM they would learn. However, I guess now with the government take over of GM, law suits are a moot point.
  • kellyj0530kellyj0530 Member Posts: 7
    YES, get the dex - cool out,flushed at a shop,put the green back in.And Change the coolant temp sensor part #WT3024 @ o'reilly's for $12.99(after the flush).the Dex-cool eat's the gaskets. as for the intake gasket you can try something to seal it, like alimua seal liguid, etc..keep a eye on the level and dont over heat it..I just flushed my dex-cool out of my 2000 regal @ 135,000 miles and replaced the sensor, after the flush it poped the light on and it was the sensor p0128,I replaced it, now it's off, i never had a heat problem, always worked good,and heat guage works correct.Good luck
  • dobbz007dobbz007 Member Posts: 2
    As far as I can tell the coolant is only leaking outside it pools up on the intake around the injectors. Its not getting in the oil. It did the same thing before slow leak at 1st then got worse. Its seems to be leaking in the same spot. Is this a common problem with this car? Could the heads be warped? Can It be tested on the car. By no means am I a master mechanic I just hate paying for [email protected]&% I might be able to do myself. Thanks 4 the response
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    Leaking coolant into the oil is bad enough, but leaking coolant into the combustion chambers is even worse. Either way, if left un-check, will cause a catastrophic failure and require a new engine.

    My wife&#146;s car did that and they had to put a new engine in. Fortunately it was still under warranty.

    What happens over time when coolant leaks in the cylinders it causes the wrist pins to bind up which in turn causes the cylinders to egg shape. Other nasty things occur also. The end result equates to new engine.

    I assume by now you flushed out the original GM stuff. I don&#146;t understand why when a car company knows they have a faulty product they still stick with it until they don&#146;t have any more customers or a class action law suit is brought about.

    After they replaced the engine in the wife's car and I wanted to check to see if I had an internal leak of the head gasket I would:

    a)Take a cue tip and tape it to a drinking straw. Make up as many as needed.

    b)After engine has cooled down overnight take out some of the spark plugs, preferably ones that are easy to get to.

    c)Using your cue tip and a flashlight gently swab top of piston being careful not to drop anything in the cylinder. If any metal or gravel get into the cylinders it will cause major damage.

    You have to do this after it sits overnight because even if it is leaking, when the engine has been running, it will burn off any trace of coolant. After it sits overnight any coolant vapor will condense in the cylinder.

    You don&#146;t have to be a master mechanic to be pro-active in your cars well being. White collar, blue collar, it doesn&#146;t matter. Tell Santa you want a few tools and a droplight.

    I know this is a long answer to a short question but you asked.

    Good luck and happy motoring.
  • farmer68623farmer68623 Member Posts: 1
    I recently pulled my Regal into the garage and shut it off. The next day went to start and there was nothing. I replace the battery thinking it may be dead and needed replacing anyways~ still nothing, no lights or any sign of electical activity. Car is deader than a door nail. Anyone have an ideas??? Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    Sounds like it might be a bad ground connection or a bad ground cable. Start with unbolting the cable where it bolts to the block.

    I had a problem with my Buick where the starter wouldn't do anything but I did have lights. Come to find out the chip in the key was bad. Unfortunately, I replaced a good starter at $175. before I discovered the key was bad.

    good luck.
  • kenbeggykenbeggy Member Posts: 1
    After replacing the catalytic converter on my daughter's 2003 Buick Regal, the car would stall whenever the left turn was on. We went to a local dealer and their answer after putting it on the computer was to replace the battery. The problem continued and another dealer finally solved it by finding a shorted wire in the fuse box where all the wire connect. We also had to replace the ignition switch. This all at a cost of approximately $1500.00.
    The original dealer contents that his work on the converter and battery was not a factor in the wire shortage.
    Does anybody out there agree that these issues are not related or am I being fleeced ??
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    It's sad how much dealers charge to work on cars these days. That's why when ever I buy a car from a dealer I opt for the extended warrantee. After the warrantee expires or if it&#146;s something the warrantee doesn&#146;t cover I go else where or fix it myself. In your situation on a 03, a warrantee probably would have been expired anyway.

    Most of the time when I weld on an exhaust system I disconnect the battery to help prevent electrical damage. I haven't heard of welding causing a short in the fuse box but I have heard of it sometimes blowing out the diodes in the alternator. At any rate it would be very hard trying to prove that the welding on your car caused the damage. Maybe it did and maybe it didn&#146;t.

    That fifteen hundred could have helped out with Christmas for sure. Sorry for the bad luck. Hope your holidays get better.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Member Posts: 94
    My 99 Park Ultra Buick back up lights have both failed. I replaced the back up light
    switch and the bulbs and checked the fuse located under the glove box on the
    passenger side. If it is a simple ground where is it for the back up everything else
    all lights work great. I do have a issue with oil pressure light and a gas gauge
    but that is a display issue. Any ideas?
  • carguymontereycarguymonterey Member Posts: 1
    I have struggled with and resolved a problem that appears to be very popular among Regal Owners. My 2000 Regal would start up at night and the auto lamps would turn on, but the interior illumination would not light with the exception of very dim lighting on the radio and heater/ac controls.

    The problem is in the connector to the headlamp switch, which has weak terminals. I resolved the problem by removing the IP trim panel, removed the headlight switch, removed each terminal in the connector and tightened the spring tension on the terminal before reinstalling the terminal in the connector. I then sprayed the headlight switch and connector with CRC 5-56 including the potentiometer in the switch, and cycled the switch and dimmer potentiometer several times before reinstalling the connector.

    The process involves removing the black trim that covers the entire center section of the Instrument panel (IP) and trims the center stack (radio and HVAC controls). This trim panel also includes the HVAC vents. Remove the headlight switch. remove the connector from the headlight switch. remove the terminals one-by-one and tighten the spring tension in the terminals.

    I will try to identify each step in the process for others who Undoubtedly have the same issue as I had.

    1. Start at the right side of the Instrument panel and remove the cap covering the fuse panel. It snaps out and you will need to be careful that you remove the clips from the holes without breaking the clips.

    2. The black trim panel has a 7mm head screw on the right side of the IP end cap under the fuse panel cover. Remove that screw.

    3. Remove the similar trim panel from the left end cap of the IP (adjacent to the headlight switch) exposing the headlight switch attachment screws.

    4. Snap the black trim panel off, beginning at the right side The panel will snap out and will need to be rolled down from the top, because the lower edge of the panel has a lip that fits behind the lower IP trim panels. Gently pull the top right side of the panel out, and then work your way toward the center stack and to the left side where the headlight switch is.

    4. Remove the two screws securing the headlight switch bracket to the IP end cap. Slide the headlight switch left, releasing the knob area from the the IP structure. The switch will now roll out of the side cavity of the IP structure.

    5. Once the switch is exposed, remove the connector from the back of the switch.

    6. Note the color and location of each wire in the female connector, to be sure that you locate each terminal in the correct position during reassembly.

    7. Starting at one side of the connector, remove the blue lock tab and carefully release one terminal from the connector cavity using a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pulling the terminal out of the cavity by the wire.

    8. Once the terminal is free from the connector, you can now "GENTLY" bend the half-moon spring area of the terminal closing the gap where the male blade fits into the female terminal.

    9. Reinsert the terminal into the correct cavity of the connector and move to the next terminal.

    10. Once the terminals are all tightened and the connector is reassembled, spray CRC 5-56 or electrical contact cleaner into the headlight switch and cycle the switch on and off a few times. Also cycle the dimmer potentiometer a few times.

    11. Spray the female harness connector terminals with CRC before making the connection to the headlight switch.

    12. Carefully reconnect the connector to the headlight switch, paying attention to insert the connector straight into the switch so that the terminals are not forced open as the connector is inserted.

    13. Test the switch to insure that all lighting functions are present, including manually cycling the headlights and checking the dimmer potentiometer.

    14. Reassemble the switch to the IP,reinstall the trim panel along with the IP side covers.

    15. DONE!!!

    I also have a floating fuel gage and low temp position that I will tackle and post here in the near future.

    E-mail me at [email protected] if you have any questions. Good Luck.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    I had to replace my headlight switch a couple of years ago because of the same thing. Best I remember, I was able to remove and replace the switch by going through the left end of dash. I was impressed on how easy it was to replace I remember that. :shades:
  • mcgooglemcgoogle Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 01 Regal is doing this as well. She said she tried to start the car yesterday and got a brief flash of the dash lights and such that are normal when she starts it, but then the power cut out or something. Following gnielsen's advice with the screwdriver to push up the solenoid rod I was able to get the key out, but it appears that something's draining her battery (this has been going on for the last month, and we replaced the battery last week thinking the cold was killing it). Is the solenoid causing the battery depletion or is it being caused BY battery depletion? While trying to jump her car last night, the passenger side light on the rearview mirror was flickering dimly like it was haunted. My first thought is to replace the ignition switch, but that's just a shot in the dark, otherwise I'll have to remove fuses and find the possible short. :confuse:
  • taylor61taylor61 Member Posts: 1
    I had this, does the security light come on if it does get them to check the resistor, mine had a hair line crack so only did when damp out. Or until the sun came out really strong, then the car started every time. I put in a new starter, new body control module, new key and this resistor was the last thing check after a check of all the wiring harness, because it had already had the by pass they figured the resistor was good. Not cost me over a thousand to fix an eight dollar part.
  • wlightning3wlightning3 Member Posts: 2
    I recently acquired a pretty clean 1980 Buick Regal with a rebuilt 350 Olds Rocket. The motor & trans is all new-the car original 62,000 miles. This car was done right and never had a problem in the short time I have owned it. The other day coming home from the gas station the radio went out. Next morning no power to the starter-wipers-electric windows-seats-nothing. I get a beeping when the key is in but no clicks from the starter-nothing. The headlights work-dashlights-but that's it. Battery is good-light works under the hood-etc,,, The dual headers wrap the starter very tight and I would have to literally remove the header-disconnect it-release the driver side motor mount and jack it up to get to the starter-theres no other wat. (Starters on the drivers side on this motor). I would hate to emgage in all this work to find out it's a module or something else-ignition switch-etc,,, What could I do to test the ignition switch-troubleshoot it from the top end before I do all the other stuff ? I checked the fuses-nothing is blown that I can tell. Any helps appreciated-I'm missing a leg and it'sdamd cold to be laying under that car. Thanks for any help.
  • gherremagherrema Member Posts: 2
    I definitely have this issue also. I have no lights/power in the morning, but when the sun comes out it will start every time! Where is this resistor you mentioned? I was actually talking to a dealer about a new key already. I would greatly appreciate a quick inexpensive fix!
  • wlightning3wlightning3 Member Posts: 2
    Not sure if we're having the same problem-I have lights but that's about it-a beeping when lights are on and keys out of the ignition-a beeping when lights are off and left key in ignition. (Reminders to turn lights off and take keys out). I am getting power to starter and I jumped the starter cross connecting the two terminals on starter-the solenoids ok too-it cranks over. I now have it narrowed down to either inline burnt fuses wherever they are in the wiring harness-or it could definately be. It seems there's no definate shortage on things that don't work when the neutral starting switch is bad-some people have just no power to the starter-some have radios wipers and other stuff that dont work along with the no starting issues. Check your starter-make sure your getting power to it with a test light-if so then cross your terminals to see if you get a starter that cranks. If so-neither one will be bad and then you can narrow it down to that switch or burnt wires somewhere on the return to the ignition switch. They all look different and I am not sire exactly where mine is at-probably above the steering column somewhere. If yours is a standard trans (clutch & gears) your switch will be right behind the clutch pedal somewhere a button style switch that stops it from starting unless the clutch is pressed in activating the switch. Hope this helps ya.
  • 200regalowner200regalowner Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I have read all the posts from beginning to end. Aside from the few others.. the main issues are all related to ignition switch...

    I have bought my 2000 Regal 2 years ago. Early last summer I noticed that my key would not unlock after I turned my engine off. Having to wait for a "click" or starting my car up and hopeing it unlocks during my next attempt. This issue I ignored.. occured off and on.

    Then sometime in October I was driving and made a right hand turn shortly after that turn my car died. Everything "flickered" and lost power. Started it up, sweated a bit. This issue I ignored.. occured very few times.. maybe 5 since than.

    Then early last week. My car started going through the "wont unlock" after shuting down phase, but something else occured when I went to start the car again... the car started freakin out, all the dash lights started flickering again and by than i had the key turned to turn over the car but it didnt start. Quickly nervously i shut the car off (yes the key unlock). Thinking this was my imagination... i tried again... It started, phew!. Then on Friday I was parked at the bank and went to start my car up again same freak out it had earlier last week. Im too stubborn after about 1/2 hour of persistance, the car started like nothing happend.

    Than I looked up known issues with buick regals and found this site. Getting my ignition cylinder swapped out. Lesson learned? Dont buy cars with ghey anti theft chips embedded in the key that wear out and screw with your power. Before doing this expensive fix clean your key off, might tide you over till it absolutely fails.
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