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A/C systems dry the air and produce water in doing so. This water is collected in the evaporator which typically has a drain to the ground. If the drain is plugged or there is some other problem, the evaporator might drain into the cabin. Another symptom of this is a musty smell when you turn on the A/C system.
I don't know where the Mini's A/C evaporator is, but the most common location is on the passenger side behind the glove box. Thus, a problem will often result in a wet floor on the the passenger side.
But if you're getting water in the car after a wash, you have your smoking gun - you have a leak from the outside. Leaks are seldom visually discernable. If you carefully direct a hose to various areas of the car and see which causes new water to appear, you should be able to isolate the area where the leak is.
My guess is that you've got a windshield seal problem on the right side. If not this, then probably a door seal issue, although water at the hood release water sounds more like a windshield. If the shield has ever been replaced, I'd virtually guarantee this is the problem.
If the car is under warranty it should be covered for something like this, both for diagnosis and repair. The Mini has a somewhat checkered history of windshield problems, especially the early ones.
If not under warranty, yes, the dealer is going to have to look at the car to diagnosis the problem and this will cost you. But if they're competent, it is probably money well spent.
They can't really do that on their own. Either they were installed loose at the factory, threaded in wrong at the factory, or threaded in wrong at dealership or garage. Sounds like a human error problem.
I poured water slowly into the roof gutter drain and found that water was coming into the car. I could not find the reason or could I get the molding off to see where the leak was. The only solution at this time was to silicone the hole. This done I again poured on the water.. this time I even pouredn it on the seal of the factory installed sun roof. To my horror the leak came alive again. After some investigation I have discivered that Mini has designed channels to evacuate water from the sun roof and then connect to the gutter drain and then through the car and then drain out on the outside of the door seal. This design I'm sure is very good in climates where the temperatures do not drop to minus 40(same in both fahrenheit and celsius) and freeze any water (droplets) to where they build up and break the pipe. Consequently silicone has come to the rescue again. Therefore the only way to fgix the problem in winter is to plug the holes. (There is a rear drain that has not yet plugged so this solution is only a one time deal. When this drain is plugged then disasembly of the moldings is necesary).
Arghhhhh, my hubby's 2003 Mini threw a piston at just over 36,000 miles! Thank goodness for Mini's warranty policy. Has this happened to anyone else and should we now consider purchasing an extended warranty? If so, anyone have any experience with extended warranties for Mini? Thanks!
This is the first report I've heard of major engine problems with the Mini engine which has a reputation for robustness. Was it a MC or MCS? Any hop ups (e.g,, smaller pulley)?
Statistically speaking, this incident doesn't make your car any more or less likely to have a problem. So it shouldn't influence the decision about the warranty which is basically an insurance policy, but after an incident like this, it might help you sleep better at night.
On my 04 MCS I had water pour in the passenger side front seat floor. Puddle galore. Took to dealer. Factory did not install a sunroof drain hose! Took one from car in stock and problem fixed....
Hi. I'm new to the forum, so I'm sorry if this issue has been covered before. I just had my O2 sensor replaced and I asked the dealership (Mini of the Mainline) about a strange noise coming from my steering. He told me his had been making the noise for the last 20K miles and it would cost 1300K to fix, so I should ignore it. Well, its getting worse. It used to make a sound when I put the car in first gear and turned the wheel. Now, it grinds and makes a strange rhythmic noise when I'm parallel parking (i.e. I have the wheel completely turned in one direction) and the other night, the power steering gave out on me during a parallel park--it worked again after I re-started the car. I'm going to check the power steering fluid tonight (I was told it was permanent and I have no leaks but I now know that it could be empty). Anyone know what my steering grind could be? I'm not mechanical, but I want to at least have an idea of what could be wrong before I mortgage my house for another fix! Also, I'm not overly aggressive but potholes are a problem here. A REAL problem. I've gone through 8 run flats now b/c of bubbles. Thanks, Micki
We just purchased a 2002 min for my daughter and after driving it for about a week she informed us that she needs to turn the ignition switch several times before the engine will turn over. I'm tinking of either the ignition switch or starter solenoid. Did anybody have a similar problem? Also a couple other small problems: the backup light doesn't work even after replacing the bulb. I know the shifter linkage clip had been installed. Could the dealer have disconnected the switch in the process? The last thing is the third brake light. It doesn't work. before I spend $77.00 to replace the light strip, is there anything else I can check?
The key diagnostic on the ignition switch vs. solenoid trouble-shooting is whether anything happens at all when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. If anything happens (e.g., you hear a click, the lights change, etc.) then it's probably not the switch. If absolutely nothing happens it probably is the switch - I'd jiggle it in the start position and see if you can coerce it into making contact.
Trying several different keys is a good thing too. Each commmunicates with the car's computer and there have been glitches in the sensors that pick up the key codes.
Don't know about your other problems. If the dealer has been monkeying around with the shifter, yes, I'd suspect that as a cause for the backup light problem.
Hi, I'm on the verge of buying my first Mini, but i'm from houston and will be moving to NY. I don't know much about driving in ice and snow, is the mini built to handle icy conditions. My sister told me I basically need a car with 4 wheel drive. is she right? Sorry if I just dumbed down this forum, but I'm really clueless when it comes to cars. Appreciate anyones advice.
Not a stupid question at all, although it is difficult to come up with a simple answer. Some people are good snow drivers and look forward to slinging around a Corvette in the slipperly stuff; others shouldn't be allowed out of their driveway in a heavy rain. So a lot depends on your skills and whether you're challenged by snow or petrified by it.
The Mini is about like any other small FWD car in the snow - Okay with the right tires, but not up to 4WD SUV standards by any stretch. It's a bit low-slung and there have been sporadic reports of door lock and shifter freezing up issues. The weird BMW feature that cracks the windows when you open a car door has been problematic in cold weather too.
If you can't stay home on a snowy day, you definitely will want dedicated snow tires, probably on extra rims for easy seasonal changeover. The MCS on 17" low-profile, run-flat summer tires is a hockey puck.
If by "NY" you mean NYC, I'd consider another problem - potholes and exceptionally rough roads. A Mini, especially with low-profile tires, will really pound over broken pavement. It punctures tires, breaks wells, and eventually takes its toll on the suspension and structure.
Honestly, for four-season NYC car, I'd recommend something else, either a beater, small ute, or if you don't mind beating up a nice car, an AWD A3. NYC is a tough place for cars.
I have a MCS with LSD; it's fine on ice, not so good in snow. I don't have snow tires on though. It's just too low to be great in snow. I drive my SUV in the snow (I know it's considered sacrilege for a Mini owner to own an SUV too...).
The window going down when you open it is actually a useful feature--since the windows are frameless, it reduces the risk of you breaking the window when you shut the door.
So far though: the notorious cracked windshield after a rock chip. will be replaced by PPG glass soon. driver's seat edges began unstitching. covered by warr. slight rust/corrosion on door hinges. replaced by warr.
Hey Minites, Today it snowed a bit in Denver and I drove my 03 Mini S to work. I left the ASL on and it would engage all the time and really take power away from the wheels. In the manual it says if your stuck in the snow to turn off the ASL, but what about driving around in slippery conditions?
I'm really tempeted to turn it off, because then the car would handle more like I expect it too. Or is this a bad idea. I seems safer with the ASL on. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Certainly if you have the skill, turn it off and slide around a bit. But you're probably not as safe - you're walking the tightrope without the safety net.
The "stuck in snow" turn off recommendation is to allow lots of wheelspin to churn you way out, which works sometimes. It gives you another option if you're stuck. But it has nothing to do with normal driving.
As you see it basically overrides your input you into applying more ponies to your wheels... its an idiot safeguard, less than a matter of skill, more like common sense.
How do I perform vertical adjustment of the headlamps? There are screws that handled lateral adjustment, but I can't seem to find the vertical. :confuse:
Has anyone noticed a possible problem with thier mcs.At low speed say 15-20mph the car will buck/lurch forward at slow down in 1st or 2nd gear.The motor is slowing down the vehicle,the brake and clutch are not being used.Any thoughts anyone?
Does it happen right around 1500 rpm? If so, then I believe they all do it - I think it is the fuel injection transitioning from coastdown mode (with no fuel added) to idle mode (with fuel added to sustain an idle). Most drivers work around it by clutching a little earlier when coming to a stop.
It's a minor lurch on mine - if it really is bucking, then perhaps something is wrong with yours. But it is something that has been talked about on this and other forums for years.
I see that this post is a few months old but someone might find it useful. The dealer is brushing you off. First if you did happen to lock up one tire at straight away cruising the DSC/ASC (depending on what package you have on car)light may come on, but not the TPM(tire pressure monitor.) This is a sensor issue. More than likely a wheel speed sensor is faulty or getting there. It is also possible that the DSC/ASC module itself could be faulty...but less likely than sensor. This is not a difficult problem to diagnose but if your car has no faults stored then there is little dealer can do. your not going to be left stranded..so roll with it..get it to dealer when malfunctioning consistantly.
this is a common situation that is known to dealer and mini..calibration crystals in clock in cluster..must be replaced with new unit after specific production date
I have had my 2005 MCS auto for just over a year now. Got to tell you I love it! I am really sick for those of you who got lemons-- you have been cheated out of a super car. This car will ultimately have cult status-- like Austin Healy or MG.
My problems to date: (1) problem early on with programming. Occured in all the MCS autos...quickly corrected; (2) kept getting the tire flat warning (yellow light which looks like somebody's butt...) Dealer and Discount Tire argued over bad indicator or flat in the making. After several months of going round and round, turns out it was a flat in the making. It was patched, works fine now. NOTE: Mini dealer will tell you run flats cannot be patched. They can...
I recommend MC to everyone who asks about it. The question I always get is "how can a big guy like you fit in this little car?"..I have to tell them how it is the MOST comfortable of any car I have owned. Including those 2x the size.
I see a hot car at the car show and get all excited, then drive bigger cars (like wife's Lexus ES300..) and can't wait to get back to MCS..
I have a 2004 MINI Cooper S. 22,000 miles. Love everything about the car. Dealer/service has been great, too. Absolutely no complaints. Now considering a convertible. One thing that struck me is the obstructed rear visibility (due to the roll bars on the back seat) and the large blind spot with the top up. I would like to hear from owners to find out if those things are a problem in "real life." Mine would probably be driven with the top up more often than down in the course of a year, and I don't want to be bugged by this. Or is it just something that you get used to?
I think the fact that PDC is standard on the convertibles is a tip-off.. the rear visibility really isn't very good..
Top up isn't the problem, I don't think.. When you are on the move, you can adjust for your blind spots.. But, when the top is down, you really have a big blind spot over the whole rear of the car... Reminds me of the Beetle convertible in that respect..
All that said... I'm sure you can adjust to it.. and you will get used to it... But, I don't think you'll feel as carefree driving it as in your current ride..
All the road tests have complained about the blind spots and I noticed it immediately in a test drive.
kyfdx hits it on the head: Yes, it is a problem. But most folks can work around it with extra vigilence and careful adjustment of the mirros. I'd make it a strike against the car but I wouldn't disqualify the car if it is otherwise what you want.
i had the same exact problem. One day i was driving my car fine all day. I went to drive off and the car would barely move. I had my foot completely to the floor and the car must of been going 20mph. They checked it out and said there was nothing wrong with it.
Hello, i am in the UK and we had the same smell and it turned out to be a leaking rad and the smell was the the anti freeze driping on the exhaust, but now we have a really strange soud when we rev it its i high pitch noise only when you rev it took it to a garage and they told us its a clutch bearing which will cost £1500 but the clutch seems fine it sounds like a turbo noise its just when you rev it very strange sound anyone have any ideas thanks in advance Richard
Yesterday after washing the car and applying wd40 to my engine(didnt was the engine) a few hours later the EP indicator came up, i had lost of power, chocking drive and the wife ready to kill me. We are schedule to take the car in for a look, but never had problems before specially lubricating a engine....ill keepposted
Why? I don't know if it is causing your CVT problem, but it's not a good idea to be indiscriminantly spraying solvent around in your engine compartment. WD40 is a light lubricant carried by a kerosene-like solvent. If the CVT has any venting or entry points for the stuff, it would definitely do it no good.
Thx I will keep that in mind since i have never had problem with my engines, but i usually deal with moving parts engines like american trucks, lol not this all electric cars., buy the way what is the CVT? Thx
CVT = continuously variable transmission. I thought this thread started out with a trouble code generated by the CVT.
No engine needs to be externally lubricated by spraying it down with WD40. It does no engine any good. You might use it to free up a throttle linkage or other localized use, but I'd strongly urge you to not do this anymore on any vehicle, especially modern cars with their relatively fragile underhood electronics, sensors, vacuum hoses, etc.
Well following our conversation in regards to my EP signal lighting up well this morning the car was :shades: fine, no choking nor lost of power I guess markJ was right about the mis usage of wd40 i will be watching my CVT so see if any thing comes up.! thx Guillermo
On cold starts, my engine always dies on the first try, then it manages to start up on the second try. It happens every morning when I leave for work and every evening when I leave for home. This started about a week ago. Yes, I do turn the key to the on position and wait for the fuel pressure to build up before engaging the ignition.
Has anyone had this issue? What was the solution to fixing it? I have an '05 MCS manual trans.
I have a 2002 MC and it has the temperature indicator on the RPM cluster. About three weeks ago, it was raining and I was fiddling with the AC to get the windows back to where I could see outside. I must have done some sort of combo of keys, because I looked down and the temperature indicator had changed to Celsius.
It has been an education translating Celsius back to Fahrenheit, but I do want to change it back. And I would love to know how to do it.
Yes I have. They have this icon in the manual that basically says that the way to change this is to talk to a Mini technician.
Check it out, I thought that something this simple would be easy to to. Maybe they don't want my kids to find out and change everything :-)
But that seems so counter to what actually happened. I mean it happened, and now I want to change it back. I believe it's a number of 'keystrokes' or such.
The cooling fan keeps running after turning off the ignition and completelly depleting the battery i had happened in 3 ocations and I know of 3other coopers with same problem has anyone had something similar or heard of it before? any rercals?
I will soon be the proud owner of a MCC - am in the process of specing mine out for order. I am somewhat torn on purchasing the cockpit chrono pack - I know it's only $300 - but I am trying to save money wherever possible. Does anyone have it and love it or hate it? And does anyone not have it and wish they had gotten it?
Thanks for your help - can't wait to join the crew of owners!!! :shades:
I have a 2002 Mini first batch that came out and i still love it... you can always purchase the chrome parts on websites or even ebay but for 300 dollars its worth it thats les that 20$ a month if you got to have it!!! do it....
mine doesnt ahve the chrono, and i recently had a loner with it. overall i found unless like this car is oging to become a track car there really is no need for it. its extra $$, plus it moves the speedo next to the tach, and its very hard to read the speedo. on my non chrono theres a digital speedo in the tach thats much more easy to read (though mine is an 03, so maybe they ditched the digi speedo since, but i doubt it)
my advice save the $300, and this from a guy who originally wanted it, but if your still not sure, drive one with the chrono and one without
Ok my fellow mini drivers, regarding the cooling fan not shuting down and depleting the battery mini knows thast is a problem but since there are not enough complains they donot have a recal for it aparentlly the problem have something to do with the thermostat so if you are up north you might not experience the problem but if any of you do pls complaine to mini
Comments
I don't know where the Mini's A/C evaporator is, but the most common location is on the passenger side behind the glove box. Thus, a problem will often result in a wet floor on the the passenger side.
But if you're getting water in the car after a wash, you have your smoking gun - you have a leak from the outside. Leaks are seldom visually discernable. If you carefully direct a hose to various areas of the car and see which causes new water to appear, you should be able to isolate the area where the leak is.
My guess is that you've got a windshield seal problem on the right side. If not this, then probably a door seal issue, although water at the hood release water sounds more like a windshield. If the shield has ever been replaced, I'd virtually guarantee this is the problem.
If the car is under warranty it should be covered for something like this, both for diagnosis and repair. The Mini has a somewhat checkered history of windshield problems, especially the early ones.
If not under warranty, yes, the dealer is going to have to look at the car to diagnosis the problem and this will cost you. But if they're competent, it is probably money well spent.
Good luck,
- Mark
This design I'm sure is very good in climates where the temperatures do not drop to minus 40(same in both fahrenheit and celsius) and freeze any water (droplets) to where they build up and break the pipe. Consequently silicone has come to the rescue again. Therefore the only way to fgix the problem in winter is to plug the holes. (There is a rear drain that has not yet plugged so this solution is only a one time deal. When this drain is plugged then disasembly of the moldings is necesary).
I now have dry feet!!!
Cheers
- Mark
Statistically speaking, this incident doesn't make your car any more or less likely to have a problem. So it shouldn't influence the decision about the warranty which is basically an insurance policy, but after an incident like this, it might help you sleep better at night.
- Mark
Thanks, Micki
Trying several different keys is a good thing too. Each commmunicates with the car's computer and there have been glitches in the sensors that pick up the key codes.
Don't know about your other problems. If the dealer has been monkeying around with the shifter, yes, I'd suspect that as a cause for the backup light problem.
- Mark
Appreciate anyones advice.
-Atticus
The Mini is about like any other small FWD car in the snow - Okay with the right tires, but not up to 4WD SUV standards by any stretch. It's a bit low-slung and there have been sporadic reports of door lock and shifter freezing up issues. The weird BMW feature that cracks the windows when you open a car door has been problematic in cold weather too.
If you can't stay home on a snowy day, you definitely will want dedicated snow tires, probably on extra rims for easy seasonal changeover. The MCS on 17" low-profile, run-flat summer tires is a hockey puck.
If by "NY" you mean NYC, I'd consider another problem - potholes and exceptionally rough roads. A Mini, especially with low-profile tires, will really pound over broken pavement. It punctures tires, breaks wells, and eventually takes its toll on the suspension and structure.
Honestly, for four-season NYC car, I'd recommend something else, either a beater, small ute, or if you don't mind beating up a nice car, an AWD A3. NYC is a tough place for cars.
- Mark
Do you know how to get to the backup light switch?
The window going down when you open it is actually a useful feature--since the windows are frameless, it reduces the risk of you breaking the window when you shut the door.
So far though:
the notorious cracked windshield after a rock chip. will be replaced by PPG glass soon.
driver's seat edges began unstitching. covered by warr.
slight rust/corrosion on door hinges. replaced by warr.
Today it snowed a bit in Denver and I drove my 03 Mini S to work. I left the ASL on and it would engage all the time and really take power away from the wheels. In the manual it says if your stuck in the snow to turn off the ASL, but what about driving around in slippery conditions?
I'm really tempeted to turn it off, because then the car would handle more like I expect it too. Or is this a bad idea. I seems safer with the ASL on. Any thoughts are appreciated.
The "stuck in snow" turn off recommendation is to allow lots of wheelspin to churn you way out, which works sometimes. It gives you another option if you're stuck. But it has nothing to do with normal driving.
- Mark
It's a minor lurch on mine - if it really is bucking, then perhaps something is wrong with yours. But it is something that has been talked about on this and other forums for years.
- Mark
My problems to date: (1) problem early on with programming. Occured in all the MCS autos...quickly corrected; (2) kept getting the tire flat warning (yellow light which looks like somebody's butt...) Dealer and Discount Tire argued over bad indicator or flat in the making. After several months of going round and round, turns out it was a flat in the making. It was patched, works fine now. NOTE: Mini dealer will tell you run flats cannot be patched. They can...
I recommend MC to everyone who asks about it. The question I always get is "how can a big guy like you fit in this little car?"..I have to tell them how it is the MOST comfortable of any car I have owned. Including those 2x the size.
I see a hot car at the car show and get all excited, then drive bigger cars (like wife's Lexus ES300..) and can't wait to get back to MCS..
GO FOR IT!!
I think the fact that PDC is standard on the convertibles is a tip-off.. the rear visibility really isn't very good..
Top up isn't the problem, I don't think.. When you are on the move, you can adjust for your blind spots.. But, when the top is down, you really have a big blind spot over the whole rear of the car... Reminds me of the Beetle convertible in that respect..
All that said... I'm sure you can adjust to it.. and you will get used to it... But, I don't think you'll feel as carefree driving it as in your current ride..
Just my $0.02,
kyfdx
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kyfdx hits it on the head: Yes, it is a problem. But most folks can work around it with extra vigilence and careful adjustment of the mirros. I'd make it a strike against the car but I wouldn't disqualify the car if it is otherwise what you want.
- Mark
but now we have a really strange soud when we rev it its i high pitch noise only when you rev it took it to a garage and they told us its a clutch bearing which will cost £1500 but the clutch seems fine it sounds like a turbo noise its just when you rev it very strange sound anyone have any ideas thanks in advance
Richard
We are schedule to take the car in for a look, but never had problems before specially lubricating a engine....ill keepposted
- Mark
Thx good luck
- Mark
Thx
No engine needs to be externally lubricated by spraying it down with WD40. It does no engine any good. You might use it to free up a throttle linkage or other localized use, but I'd strongly urge you to not do this anymore on any vehicle, especially modern cars with their relatively fragile underhood electronics, sensors, vacuum hoses, etc.
Good luck,
- Mark
I guess markJ was right about the mis usage of wd40 i will be watching my CVT so see if any thing comes up.! thx
Guillermo
On cold starts, my engine always dies on the first try, then it manages to start up on the second try. It happens every morning when I leave for work and every evening when I leave for home. This started about a week ago. Yes, I do turn the key to the on position and wait for the fuel pressure to build up before engaging the ignition.
Has anyone had this issue? What was the solution to fixing it? I have an '05 MCS manual trans.
Thanks!
I have a 2002 MC and it has the temperature indicator on the RPM cluster. About three weeks ago, it was raining and I was fiddling with the AC to get the windows back to where I could see outside. I must have done some sort of combo of keys, because I looked down and the temperature indicator had changed to Celsius.
It has been an education translating Celsius back to Fahrenheit, but I do want to change it back. And I would love to know how to do it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
- Mark
Check it out, I thought that something this simple would be easy to to. Maybe they don't want my kids to find out and change everything :-)
But that seems so counter to what actually happened. I mean it happened, and now I want to change it back. I believe it's a number of 'keystrokes' or such.
The cooling fan keeps running after turning off the ignition and completelly depleting the battery i had happened in 3 ocations and I know of 3other coopers with same problem has anyone had something similar or heard of it before? any rercals?
I will soon be the proud owner of a MCC - am in the process of specing mine out for order. I am somewhat torn on purchasing the cockpit chrono pack - I know it's only $300 - but I am trying to save money wherever possible. Does anyone have it and love it or hate it? And does anyone not have it and wish they had gotten it?
Thanks for your help - can't wait to join the crew of owners!!! :shades:
you can always purchase the chrome parts on websites or even ebay but for 300 dollars its worth it thats les that 20$ a month if you got to have it!!! do it....
my advice save the $300, and this from a guy who originally wanted it, but if your still not sure, drive one with the chrono and one without