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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • tv2tv2 Member Posts: 3
    Dick,
    Thanks for the advice. The engine says 3400 SFI on top, and has 68,000 miles. I just attempted the on position for a minute or to as you suggested, but nothing!!
    Tony
  • tv2tv2 Member Posts: 3
    It's an automatic transmission.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    lovemygrandam,
    If there are any service bullitens on this your dealer will have that information. I am unsure what they do as far as testing for the BCM. That questions is best asked to your dealer. They can provide more informaiton about diagnostic information.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited June 2011
    OK, I just got finished reading the service manual, concerning the Passlock Problem.
    If you have performed the resistor fix as described on my website, and you are sure the resistor is connected between pins A6 and B6 of the center connector of the BCM, and that the resistor that you are using is around 2200 ohms, then you have eliminated the possibility that the ignition switch is causing your Passlock malfunction. There are only two things left on your car that can cause the SECURITY light to remain on, or blink.
    1. The Body Control Module
    2. The Powertrain Control Module
    The most likely suspect is the BCM. If you were unable to get the SECURITY light to go off and stay off after the 10 minute relearn procedure, the next thing to try is what GM calls "30 minute Learn Procedure"

    Here is the complete text from the GM service manual. If you don't have a Tech 2 tool, and a Techline terminal, try following this procedure, starting at step 8.
    ________________________________________________

    Theft Deterrent - Programming Components - U.S. Vehicles


    PROGRAMMING THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM COMPONENTS

    IMPORTANT:

    * The Body Control Module (BCM) must be programmed with the proper RPO configurations before performing learn procedures. Refer to Body Control Module (BCM) Programming/RPO Configuration in Body Control System.
    * If replacing the BCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, the module will learn Passlock sensor data code immediately. The existing PCM however, must learn the new fuel continue password when the BCM is replaced.
    * If replacing a PCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, after programming, these modules will learn the incoming fuel continue password immediately upon receipt of a password message. Once a password message is received, and a password is learned, a learn procedure must be performed to change this password again. A PCM which has been previously installed in another vehicle will have learned the other vehicle's fuel continue password and will require a learn procedure after programming to learn the current vehicle's password.

    Conditions
    Use these procedures after replacing:

    * Passlock Sensor
    * BCM
    * PCM

    10 Minute Learn Procedure

    Tools Required:

    * Tech 2
    * Techline terminal with current SPS (Service Programming System) software

    1. Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle.
    2. Select "Request Information" under "Service Programming".
    3. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle and connect it to a Techline terminal.
    4. On the Techline terminal, select "Theft Module Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
    5. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the Techline terminal and connect it to the vehicle.
    6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    7. Select "VTD Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
    8. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    9. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
    10. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    11. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the password.
    12. With the Tech 2, scan tool, clear any DTCs.

    30 Minute Learn Procedure

    Tools Required: None

    1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
    4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    5. Repeat steps 1 through 4, 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes . The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
    6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
    7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.

    ____________________________________________

    If you were unable to get the SECURITY light to go off by yourself, with this information, I'm afraid you MUST take your car to a Chevy dealer, and try to convince them to do the full re-learn procedure for you. Be convincing. I have a very co-operative Chevrolet dealer who has helped me several times with my Pontiac. Print out the procedure on my website that you followed, and also print out this message. Bring it with you to the dealer. Some of them are understanding. Ask if you can talk with the "service technician" (they don't call them mechanics any more) that will be working on your car, and explain to him that you got this information from a retired GM engineer. If he refuses to try the re-learn procedure on your car without replacing the ignition module, go to a different dealer.
    Sorry I couldn't help any more than this. By the way, the standard cost of hooking up and using the Tech 2 tool is $25.00 at Chevy Dealers, and $40.00 at Buick/Cadillac Dealers.

    Dick Berger
  • leehendersonleehenderson Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 Grand Am and my security light is on, I haven't tried none of the methods mentioned on here but I will as soon as I get off.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    leehenderson,
    If you follow the steps described on http://www.bergerweb.net , please post back and let us know the results. Use the procedure for the Olds Alero. It's better, and the cars are virtually the same, except it's easier to remove the radio bezel on the Pontiac. Also, don't worry about unplugging the radio to get it out of the way. I have done it many times with no ill effects.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Follow my tutorial at http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix to fix the Passlock Problem without doing any soldering.

    Dick Berger
  • jkometsjkomets Member Posts: 4
    I'm sorry if this was covered in the previous 99 pages, but I did my best to search and came up with nothing. I have a 2004 Grand Am and the security problems were indicative of Passlock issues. Sometimes it wouldn't turn over but the rest of the electrics would work, shorting the starter terminals would cause it to crank but it wouldn't start, and doing the 10-minute security reset would make it start again. For a while now the security light has been on solid, and it hasn't had much trouble starting.

    I did the resistor fix carefully. I consider myself to have decent soldering experience, as I have worked in garages where I did most of their wiring work, and I also dabble in computers. In any case, the connectors were fine and the BCM showed no signs of being wet, but there was some black tape around the edge making me think someone was inside it previously. After the fix, it still starts like it used to and the security light is still solid. I opened up the BCM to test at the board if the resistance was correct, and indeed it was (there is some internal resistance across those pins so some simple math told me what value I should be looking for). This tells me that the BCM is seeing exactly what it's supposed to. I disconnected the battery and did the 30-minute security fix as best I could (meaning I didn't try to start it as it would have started). Is there any hope of making the security light go away without replacing the BCM? Thank you kindly for all your help!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If you could not reset the security light using the 30 minute procedure, you may have to take your car to a repair facility that has a Tech 2 tool, and a Techline Terminal. Then you can do the full relearn procedure as described in the service manual. Here is what the service manual says:

    Tools Required:

    * Tech 2
    * Techline terminal with current SPS (Service Programming System) software

    1. Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle.
    2. Select "Request Information" under "Service Programming".
    3. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle and connect it to a Techline terminal.
    4. On the Techline terminal, select "Theft Module Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
    5. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the Techline terminal and connect it to the vehicle.
    6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    7. Select "VTD Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
    8. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    9. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
    10. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    11. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the password.
    12. With the Tech 2, scan tool, clear any DTCs.

    30 Minute Learn Procedure
    Tools Required: None

    1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
    4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    5. Repeat steps 1 through 4, 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes . The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
    6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
    7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.
  • jkometsjkomets Member Posts: 4
    Not a bad idea. I have a local salvage yard which is extremely cheap. They charge $17 for a BCM and they have about 10 Grand Ams alone in my generation. If I'm going to spend the money anyway I'd rather not spend it at a shop to have them tell me to replace my BCM anyway, when I can just replace it for less. So here are my two questions:

    1. Would replacing the BCM solve the security-not-found solid light issue regardless of if programming with the Tech2 would help?
    2. Would it be plug-and-play save for a 10-minute learn procedure?

    Thanks again for the great resource.
  • 16andlearning16andlearning Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT 3.4L - i bought the car used with 130k miles on it. It now has 157k over a year's time. The car has run perfectly fine since i've owned it but recently i have replaced the radio and speakers in my car, added an amp and 8" subwoofers - my dad installed and put in a toggle switch which had bare wire touch together and fry. i took it to The Sound Shop and the guy fixed it no problem replaced some fuses and replaced electrical tape with caps. So my system works beautifully and cleaner and my car is as good as new. Then yesterday (my birthday) im supposed to meet some friends for dinner and go somewhere with em but when i get in my car i turn the key ON and none of the initial checks come on (meaning lights on dash and meters don't do normal check) and not even my radio will come on like its supposed to; however, my headlights, dome lights, mirror lights come on my electric trunk release works and trunk light ~ now when my battery died about 6 months back NOTHING worked i had to manually open the door with the key but i can use the key remote and unlock/lock the car with that now. I'm only 16 and im slowly learning about my car so i have no idea what to think - i checked battery wires tried jumping it and checked fuses - My dad checked behind me and no problem.

    ~ i've missed my birthday party because of this problem and i really need some help ~
  • jkometsjkomets Member Posts: 4
    That doesn't sound like a Passlock problem. If it were everything would work fine except for not starting. Make sure you recheck ALL fuses, the locations of which you can find in your owner's manual. There should be some under your hood and some inside, in either one or two locations. Get a test light for that, it's the easiest way IMO. If the fuses are fine, then there is a wiring problem, probably inside your dash. Try removing your stereo to see if that alleviates any problems. The only other thing I can think of is your ignition switch.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If you replace the BCM in your car, you will need access to a Tech 2 scan tool, and a Techline Terminal. These items are necessary in order to tell the BCM what equipment you have, like power doors, windows, remote keyless entry, rear window defrost, Bose Monsoon Radio, Heated seats, all that good stuff... won't work till you tell the new BCM that it's there..... unless........ You happen to find a car that has exactly the same stuff in it that yours has, and then, I don't even know, because some of those things have individual ID numbers, so, for instance, when you press the up button for the left rear window, it may be addressing one of the window motors that are still in the junk-yard car. Get the idea? At any rate, though, If doing the resistor modification doesn't solve your problem, it's likely that the problem lies with the BCM, so you might as well replace it yourself, and then find a dealer who will re-program it for you. Should be one hell of a lot less money than buying a new BCM.

    Your best bet is to find a shop with a grubby, lecherous old mechanic, and have your girlfriend take the car in and plead with him to fix her car so daddy don't find out that she broke it.
  • jkometsjkomets Member Posts: 4
    Ok, sounds good. I'll call around tomorrow to find a shop with a good rate for reprogramming the BCM. If the total is more than $75 I think I might just go ahead and live with the security light, as it basically equates to having done the switch modification but with no danger of needing to be reset if the battery is removed.
  • spysladispysladi Member Posts: 1
    Read a lot of the posts here.. not all. Way too many! However, I do have a 2003 Grand Am. About 6 months ago, the car suddenly wouldn't start and I have to say this was the FIRST time I have ever had a problem since we bought the car brand new. But, apparently it was the Fuel Pump, which we had replaced and had no problems since. Until, this morning. Drove the car to the park, parked it. An hour later went to leave, and it wouldn't start. It wanted to ... just wouldn't turn over. All the lights come on inside. Had it towed to PepBoys, who just called awhile ago to tell me it was the Manufacture Security System. Now, reading everything here, MY security never came on, but it does seem to be the same problem? It's going to cost about $250.00... just ducky!!!! But my question, from reading what I have. I can expect this to happen time and again? Even after the fix?

    Any opinions would be greatly appreciated!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Whoa........You said the security light didn't come on? When you tried to start it the security light wasn't flashing?
    What are they going to "fix" for $250?
    If the security light was flashing when this happened did you try the 10 minute reset?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    $250???? If you have them do it, make sure you get at least a 6 month guarantee that you will be able to start the car on the first try. Otherwise, just bring it home and do the Passlock Fix at http://www.bergerweb.net. I seriously doubt that it's a passlock probmen though. The only way you can have the passlock problem without the light coming on is if the light is burned out or disconnected. Do you see the light when you first turn on the ignition during the lamp check? If so, then something else is causing your car not to start, and $250 to get it repaired with some sort of warranty is cheap. Good Luck!!!!
    Dick
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    My daughter's '05 grand am will not start. No crank, no noises at the starter. Nothing except the hum of the fuel pump and the relay in the fuse box under the hood. All dasdh lights work fine, as do the power windows, locks, trunk, etc. Checked the battery, it is good. Removed and checked the starter, it was bad. Replaced the starter. Still no cranking of engine when attempting to start the car. Could this be a passlock problem and will the resistor fix work on this year vehicle? If not....any suggestions on how to proceed with diagnosis? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

    David
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    1. Passlock won't stop it from cranking. It cuts off the fuel supply.
    2. How was it determined the starter was "bad" if it was replaced and it didn't help?
    3. When the ignition switch is turned to start, is there power at the starter solenoid? That should have been test #2, after checking the battery. The starter won't turn unless the solenoid engages the starter gear and closes the main power contacts for the cranking windings in the starter.
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    Okay, so it's not a Passlock problem. The starter was tested at autozone and failed the test. I was standing there while the starter was tested. So, I am pretty sure it was bad and I replaced it with a new (rebuilt) unit. I don't think the Autozone employee would try to swindle me, but you never know. I guess now is the time to check the voltage at the solenoid to determine if it is an ignition switch problem. Am I correct assuming this is the next step? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

    David
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    Well, I tried the Passlock reset procedure. I turned the key to the on position and left it there for 15 minutes. The security light flashed while the key was turned on but after 15 minutes it was no longer displayed. I turned the key off and then tried to start the car. It started without issue. Turned it off again and it started right up again. It seems that the Passlock system may prevent the engine from cranking when attempting to start the vehicle. Perhaps this is because I removed the battery to have it tested and the system needed reset afterward. Well, thanks for the help.

    David
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    I had a problem with a 2005 Grand Am not starting. The engine did not crank when attempting to start the car. After reading some of the posts on this forum, the general opinion was that the Passlock Security System does not prevent the engine from turning over when trying to start the vehicle. Well, this is not true. The Passlock Sysytem WILL prevent the engine from cranking. Here's what happened in my case:

    1. The car would not start...no clicking, not turning over, nothing except the hum of the fuel pump, the click of the relay in the fuse block under the hood, and all of the accessories when the key was turned to the "ON" position worked (lights, pwr windows/door lock, trunk release, dash lights and gauges).

    2. I removed the battery and had it tested....it was good.

    3. I removed the starter and had it tested...it was bad.

    4. I installed the new starter and attempted to start the car....nothing except what was mentioned above before beginning any work on the car.

    5. Performed the reset procedure described in some of the posts on this forum:
    a) turned the key to the "ON" position and waited 15 minutes.
    b) turned the key off and then tried to start the car...started fine.
    c) turned off the car and tried restarting it...it started fine again.

    Now, I do not know why this worked or why the security system needed reset. Possibly because I removed the battery.

    Also, be aware that the security display light will stay on until the system resets, then it will turn off. I did not notice if it was flashing or if it just stayed on the entire 15 minutes but it was flashing when I turned the key on and was not lit when I went back 15 minutes later to try to start the car.

    This is just an FYI....go ahead and try to reset the Passlock Security System if your vehicle will not start. If it works...great, if not, well at leat you can check one item off the list of possible causes. I hope this helps anyone who may have this type of problem.

    David
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Your experience may apply to a 2005 Grand Am, but it Does not apply to 1999 - 2004 Grand Am. The service manual specifically states that the Passlock II system disables the engine by shutting off the fuel supply. It sounds like the 2005 may have a different system, possibly one that uses a transponder inside the key. Is your key stamped on the shaft with a small circle with a "+" sign inside?

    Also, there are no relays under the hood that control power to the starter. What you are hearing is most likely the starter solenoid, which is mounted to the starter, which is also under the hood. It's possible that your car may have a bad starter solenoid, or bad brushes in the starter motor, which can cause intermittent operation of the starter motor. If you have this problem again, try crawling under the car and hitting the starter motor with a small hammer... anything to cause it to move even the slightest amount. You might also try tapping the solenoid as well. Something to keep in mind, in case you get the same problem again.
  • kcrwkcrw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 grand am that has had lots of pass lock problems. About in 2007 my wife was commuting 40 miles to work and her car all of a sudden wouldn't start to go home. It was towed to the local dealer and they replaced the ignition for a hefty cost. With in a few months it wouldn't start again. They replaced the ignition again but for free. Fast forward a few years with no problems and she was at Walmart and the car wouldn't start again (of course I was 160 miles away). Towed to dealer again and they diagnose it as a BCM and they claimed the car was flooded at some point which ruined BCM (total BS since my wife or her dad owned the car since new). They really liked installing this and charged a lot for it. A couple months after this it wouldn't start again and the dealer said they could replace BCM again but still charge for it. At this point she noticed the security light was on.

    This is when I found out about the pass lock problems and the 10min reset procedure. She has been doing this whenever it happens and she is off and running 10min late. It only happens in the summer and it only happens in the mornings. This seems weird to me. Just last week I found the 30min relearn procedure and the non-solder resistor fix. I want to try the 30min process before tearing in to the dash.

    Last night I tried the 30min procedure 2x. The first time I was able to do the first 2 cycles but the third time going from on to run and back to on for 10min it started. Same thing happened the second time around. How can I get the car to not start but still turning the car to start position? Does the car have to have the security light on to do the 30min procedure? I read that the car just needs to "bump start" and I thought I could do this without the car starting but it was almost impossible for me to not get the car to start. I had an idea to pull the fuel pump fuse so that maybe the car wouldn't start, will this work?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited July 2011
    If the car starts before three 10 minute cycles, you don't need to do any more, assuming that the light goes off and stays off. If the "Security" light is on solid, and the car starts. that indicates that there is a fault in the Passlock system, causing the BCM to go into "disable" mode. In this mode the Passlock system is disabled, and the car is not theft protected. The usual cause of a steady "Security" light is either a short between the passlock wires (three of them), or a broken wire. Check to make sure your wiring is correct.

    By the way, It's not that complicated to get the radio out. Just follow the instructions. Once you get the bezel off of the radio, it's just three screws holding the radio in place, then disconnect the antenna and wiring cable from the radio and sit it aside.
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    To answer your first question: No there is no marking on the key (no small circle or "+" sign).

    There are relays in the fuse block under the hood that do deal with the ignition of the vehicle. I do have the vehicle here to check but there is one that is indicated as "ignition" or "starter" on the fuse layout on the fuse block cover....and it does click when attempting to start the vehicle. The noise I heard was not the starter soleniod. As I said in my post the starter was replaced before trying the Passlock procedure and the clicking sound still occurred but from the fuse block.
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    My daughter has a 2005 grand am that is not starting (not turning over at all) occasionally. To get it to start she need to leave the key in the "on" position for about 10 minutes and then it will start. I have replaced the starter recently and the battery is good. See my previous posts #'s 990, 992, 993, 994 and 998. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks much.

    David
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    sully2112,
    Have you spoke with your dealer of choice? I would definitely recommend speaking with them if only to have them diagnosis the vehicle. I would ask them to look into the ignition. Hope this helps! Have a great weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    There's no difference in a 2005 passlock system. Your 100% correct that it shuts off the fuel supply only.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited July 2011
    Thanks, Burdawg. Do you have a shop manual for the 2005? If so, I would like a copy of the Security system wiring. I would like to compare it to my 2002 wiring diagram.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    No, I don't have one for the 2005, but there were no changes other than some models being dropped. As I remember there was not going to be a 2005 at all but the rental market was strong so some models were retained for 2005.
  • nikisamnikisam Member Posts: 3
    Thank you David! You saved me (and my husband) a lot of money, time, and stress. I have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am. I drove my car to work this morning and everything was fine. When I got out and tried to lock the doors the power locks wouldn't work and that worried me, so I got back in my car and tried to start it. Nothing except a clicking sound. The accessories worked and the anti theft light was on, along with all the other warning lights on the dash. I called my husband in a panic and he was going to drive 35 miles to come and work on it before he had to go to work second shift. I searched the web and found your post and followed your instructions. My car did the same thing you described after turning the key to on for 15 minutes. I started it again and again and it started fine. Thank you so much! My husband got to go back to bed instead of driving 35 miles or so to come and work on my car. Anyone else who has this problem with a 1998-2005 Grand Am should listen to your advice before they spend any time and money fixing other things that may not be broken! You rock David!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Nikisam,
    What you describe as your symptoms sounds like a low battery. If your battery voltage drops below 10 volts while trying to start, it could cause all the symptoms you describe, including the clicking under the hood but the starter not turning over, and the Passlock system getting a "false failure" since under low voltage conditions, the BCM would not be able to read the correct signal from the ignition key.
    If I were you, I would disconnect the battery cables from the battery and check for corrosion. Clean the contact points on both the battery and cables, and re-connect them. Then test your battery by trying to start the vehicle 3 or 4 times in quick succession. If the battery is OK, you should have no problem starting at least 6 times in rapid succession.
  • abrucabruc Member Posts: 8
    1. Will this work on my 04 Grand Am?
    2. Is it easier to do the fix by the radio or at the BCM?
    3. Do I need to disconnect the battery (I didn't see that step in the Preferred Method)?
    4. After cutting the 2 wires from the ignition and installing the resistor on the wires to the BCM, what do I do with the 2 cut ends at the ignition? Thank you.
    Great site.
  • sully2112sully2112 Member Posts: 7
    Nikisam,
    You are very welcome. There are those that question the problem I had, but that does not mean it did not happen that way. I am nearly positive the problem I had is with the passlock security system, but I have read that it just can not be. Well, I disagree.

    In your case it would be wise to double-check the battery (remove it and get it tested), lovemygrandam may be correct. It may be a sign your battery is on its last legs. Also, there are posts on this forum that may help you bypass/disable the security system if choose to do so.

    I am still trying to find a way to disable the security system in the 2005 grand am that has the problem.

    Anyway, again I am glad it worked for you. Take care.

    Best regards,

    David
  • nikisamnikisam Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the advice. My husband took my car today (it doesn't seem to like him) and he is still stuck. He tried the 15 minute passlock reset and it didn't work. He kept trying it and now the battery is dead and the key is stuck in the ignition. He now has to wait for his dad to get there with jumper cables (he accidentaly took the keys to his truck with him, where our jumper cables are so I can't help) so they can jump the car hopefully and get it home where his tools are so he can do what you advised. I hope it works. If you have any more or better advice for us to get it started than jumping it let me know. Thanks!
  • nikisamnikisam Member Posts: 3
    I think lovemygrandam is correct because of what happened today. I have read a lot on many different websites and it does not seem that there is a way to completely disable the security system in Grand Ams without taking it to a dealership or buying an expensive kit that may or may not work. Good luck to you and hopefully you find a way to disable it. I will get my battery checked (as soon as my husband can get the car home) and hopefully that will solve my problem. Thanks again:)
  • abrucabruc Member Posts: 8
    OK. I'm ready to start on the Passlock Preferred Fix, but I have three questions. 1. Do I need to disconnect the battery and if not, 2. does the car need to be running when I cut the yellow wire? And 3. After cutting the yellow and black, do I do anything with the two ends attached to the ignition?
    Thanks in advanced for your help.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited July 2011
    1. You don't have to disconnect the battery, but it's a good Idea anyway.
    2. The car doesn't need to be running when you cut the black and yellow wires, since you are going to do the relearn procedure after substituting the resistor into the circuit in place of the passlock module.
    3. use either of these two procedures:
    http://bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml
    or:
    http://bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/index.shtml

    I would suggest the second procedure if you have some experience with soldering. If you do, then note that it's OK to cut the black wire, rather than just scraping off insulation. Just make sure the resistor you install is connected to the wires that come from the BCM, not the ones that go to the ignition module.

    The black and yellow wire ends that go to the ignition module can be left not connected to anything. it's a good idea to tape them so there are no bare ends.
  • abrucabruc Member Posts: 8
    I've got it apart, BUT my 2004 Grand Am has the Alero ignition and harness setup, etc., Can I still use the (non-solder) Fix?
    P.S Is it possible this is a Passlock II and is that going to be a problem?
    Thanks.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Yes, you can use the non-solder fix. The wiring is exactly the same in the two vehicles. It states at the beginning of my article that this fix applies to the following vehicles:
    1999 - 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
    1997 - 2003 Chevrolet Malibu
    1999 - 2004 Pontiac Grand Am

    These are all Passlock II systems. If you are able to find the wiring bundle with three wires in it, and you have identified the yellow and black wires, you are all set to go.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    I have been having problems with this GA starting then dying for about a week now. Two years ago, someone unplugged the 3-wire connector to the Hall Effect sensor, disabling the Passlock. I reconnected it and installed the 2.2K ohm resistor in place correctly, worked for a couple of days. I pulled out the resistor, installed the toggle on the yellow wire; still intermittent. Fuel pressure is 46 static, 40 running. Sometimes, I can get it to stay running by holding the key halfway on after it starts. That would indicate to me a faulty switch on the column, correct? I am starting to go NUTZ, as this car is my gf's, and she is ready to dynamite it. It is in cherry shape except for this and a heater core bypass. We don't use heaters in Phoenix, anyway!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    This sounds more like a tune-up problem, or an intermittent connection somewhere on the ignition switch. (because of your experience with holding the key partly on)
    I believe you can trace your problem to the correct defective part by following the troubleshooting procedure in the shop manual. I don't have a manual for that particular year Grand Am, but you should get one if you intend to do your own repairs. It will be well worth the money you spend on it.
    By the way, are you stating your fuel pressure in PSI or KPA?
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    The FP is stated in PSI. I am considering "hotwiring" around the switch to confirm a positive start every time by taking it out of the loop.
    My other consideration is the microprocessor controlling the Passlock system, shown in the wiring diagram to be on the back of the instrument cluster. A trip to the local Buick dealer was unproductive in trying to pin down the shape or exact location of this MPU. There are several "97 Grand Ams in the wrecking yards, maybe a cluster from one of them might solve it (?)
    The $125 for the shop manual is not unreasonable, but the 10-day wait will drive someone batty. Of the hundreds of cars owned by myself and my family members, I have done all the repairs since 1976, when I got my degree in auto tech. When they break down out of state, I just tow them home and fix them here. I believe the manual would be a lot less than a tech with less experience than me will want to charge to solve this problem.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    You said:
    I believe the manual would be a lot less than a tech with less experience than me will want to charge to solve this problem.

    Good point!
    My manuals have saved me literally thousands of dollars. I got manuals for my two cars when I bought them new, and I "borrowed" my Grand Am manual from the shop at GM Proving Ground where I worked. There are other sources. I've used online manuals from http://www.alldatadiy.com for just $27/year. They aren't exactly like the manufacturer's shop manual, but they're good enough to do most everything that a shade-tree mechanic would want to undertake, and it's easy to print out the pages you need and keep them for reference later on.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tip about ALLDATA online. I have used their products at the city libraries and found them helpul. I am used to using Mitchell's or Chilton's professional shop series of manuals, and I kept a few thousands worth of them when I sold my shop in '92. Nothing beats a factory manual- I use them all the time when repairing Benzes.
  • car_surgeoncar_surgeon Member Posts: 12
    I replaced the ignition switch on a hunch to save time- $ wasted, it was a red herring. I can start it sometimes by jiggling the wires going into the Hall Effect switch. Otherwise, it might start and run for 2-4 seconds some of the starts.
    The gf is getting ready to call the junkyard to haul it off. It's a shame, under 100K, no dings or rust. AZ car. I need to go out of town for a few days for a family emergency.
  • grandamgtjp1grandamgtjp1 Member Posts: 2
    I have read through all the posts and just want to get your insight on my problem.

    I have a 2002 Grand am GT, Automatic Transmission, 75,000 miles. My parents took my car on a weekend road trip and when they got back i went to start my car and the security light was bright red and solid on my dash. I drove it around a little bit and after my last stop I shut car off and tried to start again and I have lights, radio, etc. but the car would not start. The car had no clicking of the starter, nothing other than what i wrote before. It was if the battety was completely dead. (New battery) I did the 10 minute reset and the car started up and light is gone and has started the last 10 times I tried, but i haven't drove anywhere in it yet afraid that it will do it again. Has anyone had any luck that this was a one time deal and didn't happen again? Plus will this Passlock make the car engine sound like it is working harder? And will this make rpm on idle be 1200? What sound the engine sound like in a Grand Am GT? Loud? Smooth? Should it be at 2200- 2500 rmp at 55 miles an hour? Just wondering if it's okay to do new disable of system or if something else is cause?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The security light on SOLID when it's running indicates a problem has been detected in the security system.
    From your description it sounds somewhat like an ignitionswitch or related circuit problem was the culprit when it wouldn't start, but that's just a guess.
    Passlock won't make the engine work harder.
    It won't effect the idle (other than the fact it won't run if it's tripped).
    It should sound somewhat louder than a standard GA due to the exhaust but it's no big difference. The big difference is in the final drive gearing in the GT.
    The rpm's at 55mph is determined by the load. If it's in overdrive that sounds a little high, but under power or going uphill that could be normal.
  • grandamgtjp1grandamgtjp1 Member Posts: 2
    When i was doing the 10 minute reset the red security light was blinking until 10 minutes was up and it went off, that when I was able to start. I drove around last nite for awhile and the light didn't come back on. I may have to find a blog for te idle thing. Could be many things. At 55 the rpm was at 1500 with overdrive kicking in at 55. The car is just making a whinning noice like the engine is working harder.
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