Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Are you shopping for a new car and having a hard time finding what you want or did you recently buy a car but had to settle for something different than what you originally wanted? A reporter wants to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by 10/22 for more info.

Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

12021232526

Comments

  • elpinaelpina Posts: 3
    Thanks lovemygrandam,

    I'm assuming that is what the piece is. Whatever you stick your key into and turn is what my father replaced. I've tried the 10 minute reset procedure and it hasn't work. I know about the 30 minute procedure but I don't even know if the part that was replaced would be the cause of the light right now. I read that if the car battery dies when the light is on like this, it will never start again... something I fear while doing this procedure
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I went back and read your original post. The part that the key goes into is the lock cylinder, so it sounds like that's the part that was changed, not the ignition switch (the lock cylinder slides into the ignition switch). The ignition switch is the part that has the Hall effect sensor that USUALLY causes the passlock (security) problem.
    If you have a solid security light on and the car still starts normally it's only giving a warning that something has been detected wrong in the security system. Someone needs to connect an OBD2 scan tool and read the error code to find out what is wrong.
    All the innuendo about "it will never start again" is just blather and won't help you. Don't cut any wires since that would only help if you had the classic passlock problem where it won't start (but the starter will engage and spin the engine) with a flashing security light. The ten minute reset procedure is to clear that. Also, you really need to know what your doing since you can cause worse problems than you have now.
    Personally I would suspect the audio installation could have something to do with it if it started just after that.
  • What happened in your case is that your father did a good job of replacing the Ignition Lock, mechanically, but failed to re-connect the passlock wiring, which, on 1999-2004 models is a separate connector from the rest of the ignition cables. Ask him if there was a 3 wire connector that he had to disconnect in order to replace the ignition cylinder. If so, then the Passlock circuity is similar to the 1999-2004 models. If not, you will need to get a service manual for your car before proceeding to fix your "Security" problem. Online manuals only cost $27.00 or so, but if you want to save money doing your own repairs, they are a MUST HAVE item.
    I know.... another expense, but hey.... cars are complicated, so if you want to do things on your own, you gotta be willing to read, read, read, learn, learn, learn.
  • this is what realy happen a year ago i replaced my turn singal switch and i thought i had the pin pushed in but it was'nt i did'nt realize till i went to the store i turned the corner and my horn would blow so i went around the block and back home by time i got back to the house my horn stopped. drove it like that for two months than my car would not start i did the 10 min bypass the car started thats when my fog lights,interior lights,and my trunk release stopped working i know i screwed up did i mess up my bcm and if i did can i bypass all of that at the bcm seeing i dont have 300. to 500. to get it fixed im driving my wifes car now and she's not happy with me
  • Reread post # 1121 by lovemygrandam. He gives some help in checking your BCM. Replacing it is a simple matter. An inexpensive one can be found at www.car-part.com. or a salvage yard close to you. It should take less than an hour to check the connections and replace it if necessary. He posted diagrams to help follow the problems you are having with the car. Good luck with the Mrs.
  • i have read other forms and they say you cant use one out of a junk yard because the vin and mileage will be different and supposedly they cant reprogram it
  • dcheiteldcheitel Posts: 11
    edited March 2012
    I know this has been talked about many times but I am hoping to find something conclusive cause the guessing isnt getting me anywhere.

    I have a 2002 grand am. I have done the resistor method fix. I have installed a 2.2k resistor up near the ignition switch and have measured that resistance between BCM connector pins A6 and B6 so I know the resistance is being seen all the way down the harness to the BCM.

    The car starts no problem, and am at a loss how to get the system to relearn. many people talk about 10 minute and 30 mintute reset, but if the car starts, im not sure how this would be done.
    both methods imply that the security light will be blinking.

    I did test the resistance off the cut yellow wire on the ignition side and it measure 3.3k, but have read that 2.2k would be a fine selection for resistor.

    There are no codes read from the OBDII and all other BCM functions are working from what I can see. Inside the bcm all is clean and no sign of water or other corrosion

    Is there a way to get a running car to do a relearn and get the darn security light to turn off other than ripping it out lol.

    Please, only reply if you know something to be true and not from untested hearsay.

    Thanks to all
    DC
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited March 2012
    dcheitel,
    Here is the complete text of the procedure you are looking for, right out of the GM Service Manual.
    ____________________________________

    PROGRAMMING THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM COMPONENTS

    IMPORTANT:

    * The Body Control Module (BCM) must be programmed with the proper RPO configurations before performing learn procedures. Refer to Body Control Module (BCM) Programming/RPO Configuration in Body Control System.
    * If replacing the BCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, the module will learn Passlock sensor data code immediately. The existing PCM however, must learn the new fuel continue password when the BCM is replaced.
    * If replacing a PCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, after programming, these modules will learn the incoming fuel continue password immediately upon receipt of a password message. Once a password message is received, and a password is learned, a learn procedure must be performed to change this password again. A PCM which has been previously installed in another vehicle will have learned the other vehicle's fuel continue password and will require a learn procedure after programming to learn the current vehicle's password.

    Conditions
    Use these procedures after replacing:

    * Passlock Sensor
    * BCM
    * PCM

    10 Minute Learn Procedure

    Tools Required:

    * Tech 2
    * Techline terminal with current SPS (Service Programming System) software

    1. Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle.
    2. Select "Request Information" under "Service Programming".
    3. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle and connect it to a Techline terminal.
    4. On the Techline terminal, select "Theft Module Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
    5. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the Techline terminal and connect it to the vehicle.
    6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    7. Select "VTD Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
    8. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    9. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
    10. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    11. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the password.
    12. With the Tech 2, scan tool, clear any DTCs.

    30 Minute Learn Procedure Tools Required: None

    1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
    4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    5. Repeat steps 1 through 4, 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes . The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
    6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
    7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.
    _____________________________________

    Note that some of this is not necessary unless you replace either the BCM or the PCM. Also, the procedure calls for using a Tech II scan tool, and a Techline terminal. These are sometimes necessary in order to put the BCM into the "Theft Module Relearn" mode. (Please note: No GM dealers know how to do this. If you take your car to a shop that has a Tech II scan tool and a Techline Terminal, be sure to print out these instructions and take them with you, and tell them exactly what you want done, pointing out the steps in the manual)

    Dick B (retired)
    Instrumentation Engineering
    General Motors Proving Ground
    Milford, Mi.
  • dcheiteldcheitel Posts: 11
    hello lovemygrandam

    I have seen this before but in my situation step number 2 of the 30 minute process doesnt coincide because the vehicle does start.

    if I turn to crank and the vehicle starts how can i proceed without shutting the car off?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited March 2012
    Yours is one of the situations where you will need the Scan tool and the Techline Terminal to put your vehicle into the learn mode. If your vehicle starts after the first 10 minute learn cycle, but the Security light is still on solid, there is a possibility that the PCM already knows the code word sent by the BCM.

    This is pure speculation, but someone told me that you can trick the system by going to the Under Hood Fuse Box and pulling Fuse #18 (fuel pump). I would imagine you must put it back in once you have started the third learn cycle. I haven't had the opportunity to try this, since each time I did the resistor fix, the lamp extinguished and the vehicle ran after the 10 minute relearn. (about 12 vehicles so far)
    RB
  • the reason why you might be having that problem is because your key don't have a chip on it so the system sometimes bypass the chip and start but you do need that chip so you won't have that problem no more
  • Passlock II does not use a smart key. This is stated in your owner's manual.
  • Yesterday I went to start my 2001 Grand AM GT and for starters the key fob would not open the doors. When trying to start the car it would crank over and start for aprox 2 seconds then shut off. The security light is on the whole time (not blinking). I tried letting the key set in the ACC position as well as the ON position- both for 15 min and neither worked. What else can i do? Any help would be appreciated.

    Travis
  • You have two problems. The first is probably a dead battery in your Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter, but it could be a vehicle wiring problem. To help you trouble shoot that one, you can find a wiring diagram of the Door Lock circuits here:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/BCM-Schematics3.gif

    The keyless entry system has the following main components:

    * The transmitters
    * The Body Control Module (BCM)
    * The Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) . When you press a button on the transmitter, the transmitter sends a signal to the RCDLR. The RCDLR receives the signal and sends a class II serial data message requesting the appropriate function from the BCM. The BCM then sends the appropriate signal to the Door Lock Circuits in the doors.
    You may find that you just have a loose connector on the BCM,

    The Security Light On solid indicates a fault in your Passlock system... either a short or an open circuit. You will have to determine that by measuring the voltage between pins A6 and B6 of the center connector of your BCM with the ignition switch in the run position. If it is near zero volts, you have a short. If it is near 12 volts, you have an open circuit. It should read between 3 and 8 volts if the circuit is intact.
    You will have to read the voltage by piercing the wires coming from those pins with two thin needles, and be careful not to touch the needles together. The ignition must be on, and the connector plugged into the BCM to make the reading.
    It's unfortunate, but mechanics at the dealerships don't know how to do these things. If they can't fix it by changing parts, they give up. This holds true for all auto companies, not just GM. (Don't blame the dealers.... every time a good service tech comes along, the factory steals them from the dealer.)

    Dick B.
    Engineering Staff (retired)
    GM Proving Grounds
    Milford, Mi.
  • lardylardy Posts: 1
    i used the idiot proof remedy at this link:

    http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml

    so far no problems.

    i'll update if something comes up
  • I have spent an hour going through everything and I am still kind of confused. I have had the whole problem with the security light blinking and have to wait 10 minutes to start it. Today was a first though and kind of scary. I was driving and as i approached the light i accelerated a little and noticed the security light come on blinking with the oil and battery light and my engine was cut off. The radio and lights worked but I have never had this happen while driving. After 10 minutes I was able to restart it and the security light was off. After about 5 minutes it happened again but I was able to start it right back up
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Good evening luitachris,

    What model year is your Grand Am? I would like to check my resources to see if I can provide any information.

    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • It is a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE
  • ataylor11ataylor11 Posts: 1
    2004 pontiac grand am. security light came on yesterday. drove just fine. was able to drive it this morning. then went back to it 4 hours later wouldnt start. checked all the fuses. check the battery. it was putting out 12.2 volts. Radio will come but then i go to crank it and it doesnt do anything.
  • I own a 2002 grand am se w/2.2 L

    ecotec engine-- It has a timing chain, not a belt. After a lot of research on the matter, and a rebuilt engine, this is what I have learned.--There is a manufacturing defect, in that the chain is too tight and does not get enough oil. Mine broke with only 59,000 miles, and an oil change less than than 2,000 miles old. I am a careful driver, I don't race, or make jack rabbit starts. The best thing for any Grand Am owner to do is have your timing chain replaced before it breaks, and takes your engine down with it. Also, on the new timing chain, the nozzle for the oil is larger. Why hasn't there ever been a recall on this? This problem is too well known for the manufacturer not to be aware of it.
  • It's me again with another tidbit for you Grand Am owners--the security system is also faulty, as well as the timing chain(on another post of mine). After many hours of research, I learned that the security system is also faulty. When my timing chain blew, and I had my engine rebuilt, I found directions on the internet on how to by-pass the security system. I had my mechanic do this, and lo and behold, my security light still stays on! Many times I have had to sit in a parking lot and wait 15-20 minutes to reset my security system before my vehicle would crank. Not to mention the several times I had my car towed to the GM dealership due ti it not starting, and they would call and say I owed hundreds of dollars, but they just didn't know why it didn't start before, but now it does. I even bought a new battery thinking that was the problem. Research "faulty security system" for your Grand Am, and see what you get. That's what I did.
  • t30075t30075 Posts: 1
    I have a 04 Grand Am GT and I was driving down the street today and when my car went over a small bump in the road, the power locks and tachometer/odometer went haywire. Repeatedly locking and unlocking. Seemed to resolve itself and then about a block down the road the car completely died. No power steering, electrical, couldn't even engage the hazard lights. So then I put it back in park and restarted the car and it ran OK except it was a little rough for about a mile. Very dangerous being that this happened in the middle of the road. Wondering if it is safe to drive now. I know this has to be an electrical issue but I wonder if it could be related to Passlock. Anyone else have this issue or some advice?
  • jlsummejlsumme Posts: 9
    I did the resistor trick and I did get the light to go out but it still not start,but I am writing this because after I did it the starter would not even crank! Same as your problem, so I turned the key to the ON position and waited about 20 minutes then it actually cranked, so the BCM or something completely stopped the cranking ability. It will still not start but at least it is cranking now.
  • m0sm0s Posts: 1
    I've been to your website and would love to know if your bypass method will work on a '97 Grand Am where I have to access the wires through the steering column? And will I need the same resistors? (Please say, "YES")
  • i am trying to do this bypass, i removed the radio, looking for the three wires, i can only find 2 separate groups of wires, one bundle appears to have fifteen or more wires in it, the other has about seven, the smaller bunch has a heavy yellow wire and a thin black wire, don't think these are the correct wires, the larger bundle appears to hook up to the ignition switch, where do i find the wires i need to cut, are they by chance located under the steering column?
  • The three wires you are looking for will go to the Key lock assembly at the end closest to the driver. The rest of the wires going to the ignition switch will be routed to the end of the key/ignition assembly nearer the front of the vehicle. They may be routed around the tumbler assembly underneath.
    The three wires you are looking for are 20 Gage or smaller... probably the smallest Gage you will find in the bundle.
    You may be better off trying to access these wires at the BCM, as described at:
    http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
    Good luck
  • I don't think the 97 grand am uses the BCM for it's passlock system, but you can find out if you get hold of a service manual and look up the wiring diagrams for the "Security" system.
  • i've been reading all the posts about the passlock. my 04 grand am has all the symptoms except it won't crank at all. when i turn the key nothing happens. i've checked the battery, relay and starter and they all work fine. i'm wondering if my problem is the passlock or possibly something else
  • plumcrazy72
    The passlock system DOES NOT keep the starter motor from running. The passlock circuitry detects if the lock cylinder has been tampered with, and if so, it sends a signal to the powertrain control module, which then stops the fuel injectors from operating.
    R Berger
  • ok. my battery is good. i swapped the relays and i can make the starter with a screwdriver. any ideas what it might be? by the way, when i turn the switch on the security light stays on. tried the 10 min and the thirty min thing, light doesnt go off.
  • OK, in your case, you have two malfunctions.
    To get the security light to go off, you will probably have to perform one of the resistor bypass mods listed at www.bergerweb.net. The light being on solid indicates that there is either an open circuit, or a shorted circuit in the Passlock wiring.
    The starter motor not running indicates bad circuitry between power distribution and the starter solenoid in circuit #5. The components that could cause the problem are:
    * Fuse 5 (40 amps) in the underhood fuse block.
    * The ignition switch (in the start position, there should be a short between pins A and B of the ignition switch)
    * Either the Clutch Pedal Start Switch (manual transmission) or the Park/Neutral Position Switch (automatic transmission) is out of adjustment or defective. [these are the most likely suspects]
    The fact that you have shorted between the battery terminal and the "S" terminal of the solenoid verifies that one of the above is the fault.
    In case you need it, below is the wiring diagram for a 2002 Grand Am. Probably the same as your vehicle. [right click on the picture and choose, "View Image" to get a larger diagram.
    image
  • there are two A and two B pins. one set works with the switch in the on position and the other works in start position. if that means the switch is ok then how do i test the park nuetral switch? i have already removed the switch but i can't find any info on testing
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited September 2012
    Use the wiring diagram. Note the color of the wires, which will enable you to trace through the circuit, using an Ohmmeter. With the PNP switch installed and adjusted properly, you should read a short between the big yellow wire coming from the ignition switch, and the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid when the shifter is in "park" or "neutral". If not, follow the instructions in the manual to adjust the PNP Switch.

    If your starter motor won't run in either the Park or Neutral position, Try moving the shift lever to other positions while holding the key in the "Start" position. this may give you a clue to the adjustment you must make to get it to work.

    Following are the instructions in my own service manual, which could be useful for you too.
    _____________________________________
    Installation Procedure (Old Switch)
    Using Old Switch

    1. Place the shift shaft in N (Neutral).
    2. Align the flats of the shift shaft with the switch.
    3. Install the park/neutral position switch mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).

    Important: Ensure that the engine will only start in the P (Park) or the N (Neutral) position. Readjust the switch if the engine will start in any other position.

    4. Connect the negative battery cable.

    Installation Procedure (Using New Switch)

    1. Place the shift shaft in the N (Neutral) position.
    2. Align the flats of the shift shaft to the flats in the park/neutral switch.
    3. Install the park/neutral position switch assembly.
    4. Install the park/neutral position switch mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    5. Align the holes with the mounting boss on the transmission. Place the shift control lever in the N (Neutral) position. Do not rotate the switch. The switch is pinned in the N (Neutral) position. If the switch has been rotated and the pin is broken, adjust the switch. Refer to the using old switch installation procedures.

    Important: Ensure that the engine will only start in P (Park) or N (Neutral). Readjust the switch if the engine will start in any other position. Refer to the using old switch installation procedures.

    6. Connect the negative battery cable.
    7. Place the transmission control shifter assembly in the N (Neutral) notch in the detent plate.
    8. Loosen the park/neutral position switch attaching bolts.
    9. Rotate the switch on the shifter assembly in order to align the service adjustment hole with the carrier tang hole.
    10. Insert a 2.34 mm (3/32 inch) maximum diameter gage pin to a depth of 9.0 mm (9/64 inch) . Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
  • 2003 Grand Am GT1... I replaced the key cylinder, fix the issue for 2 days. The new cylinder locked up like the old one. Seems that the steering not locking must be related. Since the new cylinder requires damaging to remove, I am hesitant to install another cylinder until identifying the real root cause of the issue. Anyone have any ideas?
  • hello all i'm hoping you can help. i own a 2005 grand am with a 3.4l engine. i was recently involved in a front end collision and three days later my car wouldn't start. it was acting like a fuel pump problem. so after some research i came across this forum. i have checked the fuel pump relay,checked for spark, did the passlock relearn procedure and replaced the ignition switch. after all that my car still cranks and wont start. at one point my key fob would only unlock the passenger and back doors, and by unplugging the bcm i got that to work again. my question is where do i go from here i dont have the cash to do a fuel pump. any help would be great
  • My sons car is actually a 2003 Alero. I had it towed home the other day and it started right up, the key was left in the switch which may have had something to do with it. Then I drove it down the street and back, then it would not start unless it was in neutral. So my son drove it to school last week and guess where it sits, the school parking lot! My wife talked to a locksmith who said that they fix these all the time. We will see how that goes.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    wtfgrandam,
    Thank you for taking the time to post your concerns. I apologize for your frustrations. My best advice is to have someone at the dealer take a look at it for you. I apologize for your frustrations and inconvenience.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
    Soci[email protected]
  • I have read and read these messages and I am a women and not able to go in and cut wires. I have the same problem when - Car won't start. I have to turn key to acc sit in the car for 10 minutes watching the security light flash. When it stops flashing I turn off the car and then try to start it again and it starts right up. This is getting to be a REAL PAIN especially with winter coming and you have to sit in a cold car for 10 minutes watching a stupid light flash. Has anyone filed a complaint with GM I hear so many people talk about this. Any one in Rochester NY know where I can take the car to have these wires cut? They see a women come and UP GOES THE PRICE Hardly fair
    Thanks for any advice
  • All you can tell this guy is TAKE IT TO A DEALER???? What is wrong with GM I have heard of this problem so many times and why is it GM won't do anything about it Except of cource tell us to go to a dealer and PAY to have it fixed
    My days with a GM car I think are coming to an end soon with these replies
  • Good morning jlorraine,

    While we cannot provide technical advice or look into anything pertaining to non-GM dealerships, if you had decided to work with a GM dealer and wanted for us to check into this further, we can be reached at [email protected] (include your name, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealer).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I have read and read these messages and I am a women and not able to go in and cut wires.......
    Has anyone filed a complaint with GM?


    First, the answer to the second question....
    By law, no automobile company in the United States may advise their customers on modifications that will bypass any of the electronic devices. This is covered in the emissions standards manuals put out by the Environmental Protection Agency. It's unfortunate that our government makes the laws so broad that it covers items that have absolutely no effect on automotive emissions, but that's the way it is. That said, be thankful that you don't have one of those Toyotas that have those $240.00 keys with the remote keyless entry embedded in them, or even worse, an Audi. Lose one of your keys, $240 for the key, $125 to have it programmed.
    Also, It wouldn't do any good to file a Class Action against the company. It doesn't exist any more. (the company), remember.... they went bankrupt.

    On to the first question...
    I am a women and not able to go in and cut wires.

    I don't believe you give yourself as much credit as you should. You don't have to be a "man" to find and cut wires in your car. Here is my suggestion. Go to the following web address:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/
    Print out the instructions for bypassing the Passlock Module. Then take them to any Radio Shack store, and ask one of the clerks to sell you all the parts and tools you need to do the job. he will sell you a small pair of needle nosed pliers, a small screwdriver, maybe a cheap pair of wire cutters/strippers, a set of metric sockets or wrenches, a terminal block, and a package of resistors. Depending on whether or not he's honest, you will pay $18 to $30. When you are finished, you will be able to shove the pliers into a kitchen drawer, and use them the next time you need to fix a piece of jewelry, or a zipper on some of your luggage. the only other tool you will need is a table knife to pry the bezel off of your radio.
    Once you have the tools, and you have read the instructions, if you still don't think you can do the job, ask the Radio Shack clerk if he knows anyone who would be willing to help. If he doesn't know anyone, go to a local computer repair store, show him the instructions, and ask if He/She knows anyone who can help.
    Even if you can't find help, try it yourself. You will be surprised at how easy it is, once you get started. The instructions are step-by-step, and the photos on the instructions are detailed enough that it's hard to screw up. Some of the photos can be enlarged by right clicking on them and choosing "View Image". As long as you follow the instructions, and cut only the correct two wires. you can't hurt anything.... trust me.
    If you don't want to invest any money before you start, just read the instructions, and remove the radio. Then put it back. Once you have done that much, you will have gained confidence to continue.
    Come on girl, don't wimp out. You can do it, even if your local independent mechanic is too much of a fraidy-cat to try it.

    Dick Berger
    Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
    G M Proving Grounds
    Milford, MI
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited October 2012
    Hi,
    I can understand your frustration related to this matter, but I don't think you should take it out on the GM customer service rep. She is, after all suggesting a solution that will eventually get your car running. Admittedly, it will probably cost more than doing the work yourself, but let's be fair,... mechanics and dealerships need to be able to make a living too. $100/hour billing rate is not that much when you consider the advanced technical knowledge required to repair today's cars, and the expense of the equipment involved. Just be glad you don't have to pay them the same salary as you pay your favorite baseball player. (and remember, that baseball player isn't guaranteeing he will hit a home run every time at bat.)
  • I have a 2001 grand am se. A few years ago I started having problems with the security light coming on and the car not starting. The 10 min procedure always did the trick. Later down the road other weird things started happening like the headlights shutting off and a dinging noise when the door was open. the other day I went to start the car and it started but then shut off immediately (tried it several times). I left the key on for the ten mintues and it didnt work. Had the car towed, wasnt the fuel pump or ignition. The mechanic said it was the "computer" which im assuming is the BCM?? So he replaced it. Drove it a couple places then all the lights came on..service engine, low coolant, abs, security. Headlights wouldnt shut off and had no power windows and trunk wouldnt open. And most importantly the radio said locked and the tiny anti theft light was on...which it never did that before. Couldnt get the lights to shut off so the battery went dead. I really need to find out what the real problem is so i dont waste anymore money. Please help!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Posts: 330
    edited December 2012
    To replace the BCM you would have had to take the car to a dealer who has a Tech II Scan tool and Terminal. He would have had to program the BCM to recoginze all the electronics on the body of the vehicle.
    Your original symptom sounds like the typical passlock problem, but with a complete failure of the passlock module, in which case the dealer usually tries replacing the passlock module. I'm assuming that the "SECURITY" light came on as usual before you tried the 10 minute relearn procedure.
    From what you describe, I think the replacement BCM is either defective, or was not programmed. All of your new symptoms indicate a bad BCM, because all those components are controlled by the BCM. Also, the "Locked" condition of the radio indicates that the new BCM was not programmed to accept the correct password from the Radio on the data buss.
    My advise is to take the car back to the dealer for further repair. Their work should be covered under their warranty policy. You might track down the original mechanic and see if they checked the passlock module before replacing the BCM.
    R Berger
  • My daughters car was having problems. It started with them draining the battery, and then needing to replace the battery. Then my son in law could only get the car to start using starter fluid. It would then run and start for the next few hours, and then if left to sit wouldn't start again. Eventually they brought it home for me to look at. Before I found the information about the Passlock we changed out the fuel pressure regulator to no avail. Then a carlot owner friend checked with a mechanic and he said that we needed to change the ignition switch. It was a bad security sensor. That is when I went on line and found the plethora of information about how to bypass the passlock sensor. The car lot friend was able to use the 10minute reset to get the car to run, and it ran great for the next 3-4 weeks. Finally it stopped starting again. So I decided to do the by-pass. I followed the Bergerwebsite instructions to the T so i thought, but it still wouldn't start even after running the 10 and 30 minute resets. I checked the BCM, and there was mild corrosion, but after i cleaned it up it still didn't start. All along I could force a start with starter fluid or gas and it would start for the next few hours. The security lights do not stay on since i did the bypass, but I still can not get the car to reset so it will start normally. Any help would be great.
  • Since your car will start when using starter fluid (assuming you are putting the fluid into the intake), your problem probably stems from either:
    * a clogged fuel filter
    * a weak or malfunctioning fuel pump.
    Try replacing the fuel filter first... it's the cheapest.
  • Yes, i was putting the starter fluid into the intake when I was able to get it to start. Thank you for the advice on the fuel filter and the Fuel pump. I have checked the port for pressure on the fuel rail, and there is pressure there, and when I turn the ignition and the fuel pump turns on fuel sprays out at a very high rate. Unfortunately the fuel pump only remains on for a couple of seconds at best and then turns off. I have read other places on this forum that point back to the passlock security causing this problem, but have been unable to reset the vehicle since i performed the by-pass.
  • I have a 2003 Alero and have suffered for the last year with the same problem, having to be towed twice. I tried the resistor bypass and got the light to go off but it would still not start. I found an electronic guy to fix it for $100, he said the BCM was bad and the key cylinder was also. So he put in a used BCM and "repaired" the ignition switch along with running a wire from the fuel injector relay to an unknown place. This worked for one day. So long story short I called the used car guy I bought it from and he had the ignition switch replaced with a brand new one from a Chevy along with new keys. You can tell that the key /switch is alot tighter than the old one. I have now had the car back for 2 weeks and it starts right away. With the old key/switch you could pull the key out even in the start or run position! Oh, I owe him $400 now but alot cheaper than getting another car.
  • ive owned the car for 2 yrs now. never had a single problem except for the usual maintance oil change ect. 3 days ago driving down the road the car just died. i tried to start it repeditly and gave up finaly it would start for about 5 secs and shut off so i had a friend tow me to a shop. next day the car was looked at with no problem found so i went and picked it up. we got about 5 miles down the road and it died again but this time i was on an interstate and almost struck by a semi pulling of the road so i called our macanic and he came to where we were at, first thing he checked was the rail for fuel that was fine ,the car would turn over start and run for about 5 secs. so we had it towed back to the shop they had it a couple days and said it was fixed so we went to pick it up when we got their he said he couldnt really find anything wrong with it except that he had changed a couple fuses, one for the lighter, and one for the cooling system witch he said would probly go out again he also said that if we did the reset wait for 10 mins or so we would never get stuck again but that it was probly going to die again on the road somewhere and that it probly needed a new fuel filter and a fuel pump which is 767.00 so we paid them the 35.00 we owed them and left to drop off the car we had loaned to us from some from friends of ours,we dropped it off and headed home we got about a mile or so from the home and it died again but by this time it was dark and i remarked to my wife that we couldt do the 10 min wait because the battery would go dead from the head lights as i had remarked to her at the shop before we left if it had gotten dark which it had.but we tried it any ways and the sensor light didnt even come on blinking at all that was to go to solid after 10 min or so , so we walk the mile or so home and i went back alittle while later and towed it home with my friend again and now it sets its the only car we have so were really stranded at home except we have to take dial a ride to work till this gets fixed and any where elese we go i should also add the sensor light has always been on including the check engine light i understand the bypass by cutting the yellow wire and checking the corrosion what would someone elese do
  • I was at my wits end with my sons 2003 alero which is basically like your grand am.This all started like yours with the car dying on me. After it died the 3rd time nothing would re-start it. It spent at least a month parked in various places miles from home. I spent many hours trying the DIY thing to no avail. It could be the ignition switch in combination with the bcm which is a plastic box under the glovebox that has 3 connectors attached. Here's what I would do. Get a new ignition switch and find someone who could install it cheap. They put a Chevy switch on mine ,maybe a better switch than the oldsmobile type. You can tell the key is alot tighter in the switch than the old one. Hang in there, it's crazy that this happens as much as cars cost.
Sign In or Register to comment.