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I'm assuming that is what the piece is. Whatever you stick your key into and turn is what my father replaced. I've tried the 10 minute reset procedure and it hasn't work. I know about the 30 minute procedure but I don't even know if the part that was replaced would be the cause of the light right now. I read that if the car battery dies when the light is on like this, it will never start again... something I fear while doing this procedure
If you have a solid security light on and the car still starts normally it's only giving a warning that something has been detected wrong in the security system. Someone needs to connect an OBD2 scan tool and read the error code to find out what is wrong.
All the innuendo about "it will never start again" is just blather and won't help you. Don't cut any wires since that would only help if you had the classic passlock problem where it won't start (but the starter will engage and spin the engine) with a flashing security light. The ten minute reset procedure is to clear that. Also, you really need to know what your doing since you can cause worse problems than you have now.
Personally I would suspect the audio installation could have something to do with it if it started just after that.
I know.... another expense, but hey.... cars are complicated, so if you want to do things on your own, you gotta be willing to read, read, read, learn, learn, learn.
I have a 2002 grand am. I have done the resistor method fix. I have installed a 2.2k resistor up near the ignition switch and have measured that resistance between BCM connector pins A6 and B6 so I know the resistance is being seen all the way down the harness to the BCM.
The car starts no problem, and am at a loss how to get the system to relearn. many people talk about 10 minute and 30 mintute reset, but if the car starts, im not sure how this would be done.
both methods imply that the security light will be blinking.
I did test the resistance off the cut yellow wire on the ignition side and it measure 3.3k, but have read that 2.2k would be a fine selection for resistor.
There are no codes read from the OBDII and all other BCM functions are working from what I can see. Inside the bcm all is clean and no sign of water or other corrosion
Is there a way to get a running car to do a relearn and get the darn security light to turn off other than ripping it out lol.
Please, only reply if you know something to be true and not from untested hearsay.
Thanks to all
DC
Here is the complete text of the procedure you are looking for, right out of the GM Service Manual.
____________________________________
PROGRAMMING THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM COMPONENTS
IMPORTANT:
* The Body Control Module (BCM) must be programmed with the proper RPO configurations before performing learn procedures. Refer to Body Control Module (BCM) Programming/RPO Configuration in Body Control System.
* If replacing the BCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, the module will learn Passlock sensor data code immediately. The existing PCM however, must learn the new fuel continue password when the BCM is replaced.
* If replacing a PCM with a GM Service Parts Operations (SPO) replacement part, after programming, these modules will learn the incoming fuel continue password immediately upon receipt of a password message. Once a password message is received, and a password is learned, a learn procedure must be performed to change this password again. A PCM which has been previously installed in another vehicle will have learned the other vehicle's fuel continue password and will require a learn procedure after programming to learn the current vehicle's password.
Conditions
Use these procedures after replacing:
* Passlock Sensor
* BCM
* PCM
10 Minute Learn Procedure
Tools Required:
* Tech 2
* Techline terminal with current SPS (Service Programming System) software
1. Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle.
2. Select "Request Information" under "Service Programming".
3. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle and connect it to a Techline terminal.
4. On the Techline terminal, select "Theft Module Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
5. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the Techline terminal and connect it to the vehicle.
6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
7. Select "VTD Re-Learn" under "Service Programming".
8. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
9. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
10. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
11. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the password.
12. With the Tech 2, scan tool, clear any DTCs.
30 Minute Learn Procedure Tools Required: None
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4, 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes . The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.
7. With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.
_____________________________________
Note that some of this is not necessary unless you replace either the BCM or the PCM. Also, the procedure calls for using a Tech II scan tool, and a Techline terminal. These are sometimes necessary in order to put the BCM into the "Theft Module Relearn" mode. (Please note: No GM dealers know how to do this. If you take your car to a shop that has a Tech II scan tool and a Techline Terminal, be sure to print out these instructions and take them with you, and tell them exactly what you want done, pointing out the steps in the manual)
Dick B (retired)
Instrumentation Engineering
General Motors Proving Ground
Milford, Mi.
I have seen this before but in my situation step number 2 of the 30 minute process doesnt coincide because the vehicle does start.
if I turn to crank and the vehicle starts how can i proceed without shutting the car off?
This is pure speculation, but someone told me that you can trick the system by going to the Under Hood Fuse Box and pulling Fuse #18 (fuel pump). I would imagine you must put it back in once you have started the third learn cycle. I haven't had the opportunity to try this, since each time I did the resistor fix, the lamp extinguished and the vehicle ran after the 10 minute relearn. (about 12 vehicles so far)
RB
Travis
http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/BCM-Schematics3.gif
The keyless entry system has the following main components:
* The transmitters
* The Body Control Module (BCM)
* The Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) . When you press a button on the transmitter, the transmitter sends a signal to the RCDLR. The RCDLR receives the signal and sends a class II serial data message requesting the appropriate function from the BCM. The BCM then sends the appropriate signal to the Door Lock Circuits in the doors.
You may find that you just have a loose connector on the BCM,
The Security Light On solid indicates a fault in your Passlock system... either a short or an open circuit. You will have to determine that by measuring the voltage between pins A6 and B6 of the center connector of your BCM with the ignition switch in the run position. If it is near zero volts, you have a short. If it is near 12 volts, you have an open circuit. It should read between 3 and 8 volts if the circuit is intact.
You will have to read the voltage by piercing the wires coming from those pins with two thin needles, and be careful not to touch the needles together. The ignition must be on, and the connector plugged into the BCM to make the reading.
It's unfortunate, but mechanics at the dealerships don't know how to do these things. If they can't fix it by changing parts, they give up. This holds true for all auto companies, not just GM. (Don't blame the dealers.... every time a good service tech comes along, the factory steals them from the dealer.)
Dick B.
Engineering Staff (retired)
GM Proving Grounds
Milford, Mi.
http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml
so far no problems.
i'll update if something comes up
What model year is your Grand Am? I would like to check my resources to see if I can provide any information.
Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
ecotec engine-- It has a timing chain, not a belt. After a lot of research on the matter, and a rebuilt engine, this is what I have learned.--There is a manufacturing defect, in that the chain is too tight and does not get enough oil. Mine broke with only 59,000 miles, and an oil change less than than 2,000 miles old. I am a careful driver, I don't race, or make jack rabbit starts. The best thing for any Grand Am owner to do is have your timing chain replaced before it breaks, and takes your engine down with it. Also, on the new timing chain, the nozzle for the oil is larger. Why hasn't there ever been a recall on this? This problem is too well known for the manufacturer not to be aware of it.
The three wires you are looking for are 20 Gage or smaller... probably the smallest Gage you will find in the bundle.
You may be better off trying to access these wires at the BCM, as described at:
http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
Good luck
The passlock system DOES NOT keep the starter motor from running. The passlock circuitry detects if the lock cylinder has been tampered with, and if so, it sends a signal to the powertrain control module, which then stops the fuel injectors from operating.
R Berger
To get the security light to go off, you will probably have to perform one of the resistor bypass mods listed at www.bergerweb.net. The light being on solid indicates that there is either an open circuit, or a shorted circuit in the Passlock wiring.
The starter motor not running indicates bad circuitry between power distribution and the starter solenoid in circuit #5. The components that could cause the problem are:
* Fuse 5 (40 amps) in the underhood fuse block.
* The ignition switch (in the start position, there should be a short between pins A and B of the ignition switch)
* Either the Clutch Pedal Start Switch (manual transmission) or the Park/Neutral Position Switch (automatic transmission) is out of adjustment or defective. [these are the most likely suspects]
The fact that you have shorted between the battery terminal and the "S" terminal of the solenoid verifies that one of the above is the fault.
In case you need it, below is the wiring diagram for a 2002 Grand Am. Probably the same as your vehicle. [right click on the picture and choose, "View Image" to get a larger diagram.
If your starter motor won't run in either the Park or Neutral position, Try moving the shift lever to other positions while holding the key in the "Start" position. this may give you a clue to the adjustment you must make to get it to work.
Following are the instructions in my own service manual, which could be useful for you too.
_____________________________________
Installation Procedure (Old Switch)
Using Old Switch
1. Place the shift shaft in N (Neutral).
2. Align the flats of the shift shaft with the switch.
3. Install the park/neutral position switch mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Important: Ensure that the engine will only start in the P (Park) or the N (Neutral) position. Readjust the switch if the engine will start in any other position.
4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Installation Procedure (Using New Switch)
1. Place the shift shaft in the N (Neutral) position.
2. Align the flats of the shift shaft to the flats in the park/neutral switch.
3. Install the park/neutral position switch assembly.
4. Install the park/neutral position switch mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
5. Align the holes with the mounting boss on the transmission. Place the shift control lever in the N (Neutral) position. Do not rotate the switch. The switch is pinned in the N (Neutral) position. If the switch has been rotated and the pin is broken, adjust the switch. Refer to the using old switch installation procedures.
Important: Ensure that the engine will only start in P (Park) or N (Neutral). Readjust the switch if the engine will start in any other position. Refer to the using old switch installation procedures.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
7. Place the transmission control shifter assembly in the N (Neutral) notch in the detent plate.
8. Loosen the park/neutral position switch attaching bolts.
9. Rotate the switch on the shifter assembly in order to align the service adjustment hole with the carrier tang hole.
10. Insert a 2.34 mm (3/32 inch) maximum diameter gage pin to a depth of 9.0 mm (9/64 inch) . Tighten the bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Thank you for taking the time to post your concerns. I apologize for your frustrations. My best advice is to have someone at the dealer take a look at it for you. I apologize for your frustrations and inconvenience.
Christina
GM Customer Service
SocialMedia@GM.com
Thanks for any advice
My days with a GM car I think are coming to an end soon with these replies
While we cannot provide technical advice or look into anything pertaining to non-GM dealerships, if you had decided to work with a GM dealer and wanted for us to check into this further, we can be reached at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealer).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Has anyone filed a complaint with GM?
First, the answer to the second question....
By law, no automobile company in the United States may advise their customers on modifications that will bypass any of the electronic devices. This is covered in the emissions standards manuals put out by the Environmental Protection Agency. It's unfortunate that our government makes the laws so broad that it covers items that have absolutely no effect on automotive emissions, but that's the way it is. That said, be thankful that you don't have one of those Toyotas that have those $240.00 keys with the remote keyless entry embedded in them, or even worse, an Audi. Lose one of your keys, $240 for the key, $125 to have it programmed.
Also, It wouldn't do any good to file a Class Action against the company. It doesn't exist any more. (the company), remember.... they went bankrupt.
On to the first question...
I am a women and not able to go in and cut wires.
I don't believe you give yourself as much credit as you should. You don't have to be a "man" to find and cut wires in your car. Here is my suggestion. Go to the following web address:
http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/
Print out the instructions for bypassing the Passlock Module. Then take them to any Radio Shack store, and ask one of the clerks to sell you all the parts and tools you need to do the job. he will sell you a small pair of needle nosed pliers, a small screwdriver, maybe a cheap pair of wire cutters/strippers, a set of metric sockets or wrenches, a terminal block, and a package of resistors. Depending on whether or not he's honest, you will pay $18 to $30. When you are finished, you will be able to shove the pliers into a kitchen drawer, and use them the next time you need to fix a piece of jewelry, or a zipper on some of your luggage. the only other tool you will need is a table knife to pry the bezel off of your radio.
Once you have the tools, and you have read the instructions, if you still don't think you can do the job, ask the Radio Shack clerk if he knows anyone who would be willing to help. If he doesn't know anyone, go to a local computer repair store, show him the instructions, and ask if He/She knows anyone who can help.
Even if you can't find help, try it yourself. You will be surprised at how easy it is, once you get started. The instructions are step-by-step, and the photos on the instructions are detailed enough that it's hard to screw up. Some of the photos can be enlarged by right clicking on them and choosing "View Image". As long as you follow the instructions, and cut only the correct two wires. you can't hurt anything.... trust me.
If you don't want to invest any money before you start, just read the instructions, and remove the radio. Then put it back. Once you have done that much, you will have gained confidence to continue.
Come on girl, don't wimp out. You can do it, even if your local independent mechanic is too much of a fraidy-cat to try it.
Dick Berger
Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
G M Proving Grounds
Milford, MI
I can understand your frustration related to this matter, but I don't think you should take it out on the GM customer service rep. She is, after all suggesting a solution that will eventually get your car running. Admittedly, it will probably cost more than doing the work yourself, but let's be fair,... mechanics and dealerships need to be able to make a living too. $100/hour billing rate is not that much when you consider the advanced technical knowledge required to repair today's cars, and the expense of the equipment involved. Just be glad you don't have to pay them the same salary as you pay your favorite baseball player. (and remember, that baseball player isn't guaranteeing he will hit a home run every time at bat.)
Your original symptom sounds like the typical passlock problem, but with a complete failure of the passlock module, in which case the dealer usually tries replacing the passlock module. I'm assuming that the "SECURITY" light came on as usual before you tried the 10 minute relearn procedure.
From what you describe, I think the replacement BCM is either defective, or was not programmed. All of your new symptoms indicate a bad BCM, because all those components are controlled by the BCM. Also, the "Locked" condition of the radio indicates that the new BCM was not programmed to accept the correct password from the Radio on the data buss.
My advise is to take the car back to the dealer for further repair. Their work should be covered under their warranty policy. You might track down the original mechanic and see if they checked the passlock module before replacing the BCM.
R Berger
* a clogged fuel filter
* a weak or malfunctioning fuel pump.
Try replacing the fuel filter first... it's the cheapest.