Hyundai Azera Lighting

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Comments

  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    I haven't looked, but how do you remove dust covers?
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    By merely twisting it off (unscrewing like a jars lid.

    Simple to do. There is an o-ring for sealing out water so be careful you do not lose it. It usually comes off on the flange of the dust cover.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Can you still keep your fingers off the bulb glass, or should you wear latex gloves to keep the skin oil off?...
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    ET might be able to replace the headlamp bulbs with those really long skinny finger and his long neck allowing him to snake his head down into that space to see what he is doing.
    I don't see anyway that a human could replace the bulbs without removing the entire healamp assembly.
    To answer Florida Bob, the dust covers are easy to remove. You simply unscrew them and pull. However the connection to the lamps are about two or three inches inside the dust cover and there is also a spring clip that you have to unclip to remove the bulbs. Not easy or even possible to do unless you have abormally long and skinngy fingers. Even then you can't get your head in there to see the clip and the bulbs.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I wore latex gloves to install the bulbs. At 28 British Pounds Sterling I didn't want to risk getting any oil from my fingers on them.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    I can assure you that I definitively do not have ET fingers. Wow, I just looked behind the housing - which was no big deal. Looked at what had to be done (unclipping the retainer) and pulled the bulb out - did it by feel. And yes you should wear latex gloves when handling the bulbs as you do not want to create hot spots by touching the quartz bulb envelopes..caused hot spots and premature failure.

    I guess some people can't work with their hands. The lamps are not even two inches inside the housing. Exaggerations!
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Thanks for all of the advise.
    Are most of you pleased with the new
    Phillips X-Treme?
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I don't want this to become a flaming session but I will state that I don't feel I was exaggerating. I'm 58 years old and for me to crane my neck over the front of the car and look to see the clip and the bulb would have caused a trip to the chiropractor. In my youth I might have been able to do with without taking out the lamp assembly but these days some of those kinds of tasks are a little bit more difficult. I think many people would find it easier to remove the lamp assembly. I'm glad that you didn't need to. As for working with my hands, I'm a guitar and keyboard player and have recently installed ceramic tile, three doors, finished a kitchen remodel and layed carpet in a room 20 by 15. I don't believe it is an exaggeration to say that many would find it easier to remove the assembly. One false move like dropping the bulb and having it fall into the assembly would result in a big problem that would cause one to have to remove the assembly anyway.
    By the book works best sometimes.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Were you able to do that on both sides? I know the driver's side is a bit more of a challenge with the battery located where it is. The passenger side has a bit less hindering access so it's a little easier to do.

    Some folks just need to realize that one technique doesn't always work best for everyone, so it's best to just say what you did and how you did it and let others decide if that way works for them or not. Just because someone didn't do it the way you did it, it doesn't make it wrong. The question is...was the same end result achieved? If the answer is yes, then job well done!!!

    You don't have to worry about the bulb falling into the assembly because of the flange around the bulb. If you have a bulb that falls in, you've got the wrong bulb. Removing the assembly to change the bulbs would definitely be easier on the hands, IF...the assembly just slid out easily upon removal of the bolts that hold it in place. The question you have to ask yourself is...do you want to spend the time fighting the assembly out or fighting to navigate the retaining clip for the bulb at an awkward angle.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    No...you don't need ET fingers and the bulbs are not 2" inside the housing. However, the location of the bulbs makes you have to work at awkward angles which limits the dexterity of your hands and fingers. Yes, the bulbs can be replaced without removing the light assembly, but it's not as simple as bulb replacement on some other cars I've owner either.

    You don't have to wear latex gloves either if you handle the bulb by the plug end of the it. I mean...there is no reason to even touch the glass part of the bulb when installing it as that end goes into the light housing, so it's best handled by the plug end anyway.

    Just one of those things, if it works for you...then use it. If not...find a way that does and stick with it.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I agree completely. If I were younger and my neck and back didn't suffer consequences from the technique you used I would have rather done that. I didn't have a problem getting either side out of the car. People should choose the method that best suits their dexterity.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I am pleased with the Phillips X-treme power bulbs. I can't say that the eighty percent improvement they claim is as noticeable as they claim. However, it is a much whiter and brighter light and the "line" from the factory bulbs is no longer present.
  • mjclements48mjclements48 Member Posts: 16
    I recently purchased a set of high output H7 lamps for my Azera (the dealer stated this was the size I needed). Changing and getting to the High Beam was a snap - took about 2 minutes for each side. Upon opening up the Low Beam dust covers I noted there was a 3-pin connection and the bulb seemed to be held in by a retaining ring with three screws... not wanting to mess things up, I have held up removing these until I get some info. :cry:

    1. What is the bulb size for the Low Beam - the dealer states it is the same as the High - he can't be correct as there are 3 connectors as opposed to 2 for the High beam...

    2. What do you recommend as a technique to change these bulbs out?

    Thanks!
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    If it says PX26D, then it is an H7 bulb. Only very recenrtly, did someone right that there was a bulb change. The connector should have two terminal connections (as will the base of the bulb). THree terminals would indicate in most cases a high beam filament/low beam filament incorporated in one bulb (like an H4). Since the Azera has seperate high and low beam segments in the headlight housing, there should be only two.

    Drop by th dealer, see what they think.

    As far as the retained, some of the retaining rings with the retaining clip were held in by three screws. This was so they could replace worn components without replacing the whole headlight housing. Did you try gently twisting the bulb? I believe (and this is not gospel) that the change in the design would be to use a twist and lock base similar to the 9006 style bulbs.

    Unplug the socket and look at the back of the bulb and see how many terminals it actually has. Maybe only two terminals are used in the connector (would only have two leads going to that connector as well).

    Let us know how you make out as others will have the same problem.

    Good luck!
  • mjclements48mjclements48 Member Posts: 16
    I just went out and got the nerve up to twist the bulb in the Low Beam socket... It is an Osram H11B, 64241L + 12V 55W bulb. The connector wire is attached to the lamp socket with the 3 screws I noted in my earlier post. The bulb twists out of the connector as you unscrew it from the holder. There are only 2 small connectors on the side of the bulb to allow connection as it is screwed into the holder. It definitely is not an H7 bulb as noted in earlier posts... Hyundai apparently has changed this bulb and the Parts folks are uninformed as they still think the Azera has H7s in both High and Low sockets.

  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    My H-7 Phillips X-Tremes are on the way.
    What is the general feeling about the changing procedure?
    Pull the entire assembly or go thru the dust caps?
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE:170
    Will an H-7 not connect with the socket?
    What year and model is your Azera?
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Bob...unfortunately, you'll have to see which way works best for you. Some will say it's a breeze to change the bulbs by just removing the dust caps without removing the entire headlight housing. Others will say removing the headlight housing is the best way.

    However, I've had problems with actually removing the headlight housings. The one on the driver's side came out with a bit of effort and once it was out, changing the bulb was actually quite simple. The passenger side housing would not come out and I got tired of trying, so I replaced that one while it was still mounted. There is a degree of difficulty in doing it this way because you have to make sure to keep the wire out of the way when re-installing the retainer clip that holds the bulb in place.

    It wouldn't be so bad if the battery wasn't so close to the back of the driver's side and the on the passenger side, you have the washer fluid resevoir to contend with.

    All I can say is, good luck my friend.
  • cdmuilecdmuile Member Posts: 152
    I was so afraid I would drop the whole assembly. Sometimes the thing hangs up and I wasn't sure which way to twist/pull/yank. Have someone with small,very clean, hands go through the dust cap. It worked for me.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Best thing to do is place a blanket down on the ground where you're working. The headlight won't break or crack falling from that height, the most that would happen is the outside would get scratched. A blanket would stop that from happening.

    I wish I had someone with small hands that could do the job for me, unfortunately...there are no small hands folks around me that I want working on my car.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE; 175
    I plan on hiring a nimble small child to do installation.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    LOL Talk about skirting minimum wage...you gonna pay him/her with gum balls and gummy bears?
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE: 177
    Hadn't considered that!
    That is all I need now, to be featured on "America's Most Wanted"
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I found it easier to remove the housing assembly but if you're younger than me and have small long fingers you might find you can do it without removing the assembly. The assembly isn't very heavy and dropping it and breaking it shouldn't be a real concern. The idea of putting a blanket down to avoid scratching it is a good one. I didn't scratch mine but I have a "soft floor" in my garage.
    Enjoy your new lights.
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    Has anyone attempted to replace the driving lamps in the Azera??? Does the front bumper have to be removed to accomplish this????

    thanks
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Do you mean the fog lamps? I wish they were driving lamps! The fog lamps seem pretty much worthless, unless you need to see about six feet in front of your car a little better...
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Actually gamleged, they are driving lights. True fog lights would be amber in color so there would be no feedback of white light against the fog.

    The purpose of driving lights is to illuminate the road surface directly in front of the car that the headlights aren't able to light up, for obvious reasons.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    They are actually fog lights. They are a warmer color temperature bulb (with a approx a 3000K color). True yellow folg lights are no longer produced as the cadmium used to produce the yellow color has been deemed harmful or toxic. And it is true that they are primarily effective directly in front of the vehicle. They do work for illuminating the painted stripes on the road.

    From the Azera owners manual:

    FOG LIGHT SWITCH 79
    B360B01TG-GAT
    Front Fog Light Switch
    To turn on the front fog lights, place the
    switch in the "ON" position. They will
    light when the headlight switch is in the
    first position.
    HTG2109

    According to the Hyundai service manual for the Azera, you do have to remove the bumber to get to the fog light housing. I would look first to be sure that it is not accessible.

    Sorry I could not confirm a shortcut. Good Luck! Let us know how you did it.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Okay...I've always hated the differentiation to be honest. Unless you deal with a lot of fog...they're either there to look good or assist you with driving...thus, driving lights.

    Either way, they are still lights that exist below the headlights that assist with driving! :blush:

    Man...sounds like some fun trying to get to them. Sorta like how much fun it is to access the front turn signal lights...through the front wheel well!!!
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Tape a couple of flashlights to the front bumper
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    I come from back in th' day when "driving lamps" had European names on them and lighting 'em up enabled you to burn the eyeballs out of a driver up to 1/2 mile ahead, if they were aimed a leetle too high... :shades:

    Looked kinda like this...

    http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENT- RY_ID:2003747/p-2003747/N-111+10201+600002817/c-10101
  • cdmuilecdmuile Member Posts: 152
    On one GM model, either a small Buick, Olds or Pontiac built a couple years ago, if you didn't order the driving lamps the car came with two gaping holes where the lights went. No caps no covers, nothing but two dark holes. Cheap cheap cheap!
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    LOL, Had a new 72 Datsun 240Z, I put in 100,000 candle power headlights, and had two 500,000 candle power driving lights. All illegal, of course, but it was certainly nice to hit a button and see the sun come up in front of your car. Pity the poor [non-permissible content removed] that didn't dim his brights behind me. He was in for a surprise when I would easily let them pass me and then hit the switch.

    Of course, now that I am more mature, I would never do that again. (Unless of course I had the lights in my Azzy)
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Received my Phillips H7 X-Tremes today.
    There seems to be enough room to get my hands into housing.
    Sockets pop off in a second.
    Is there any trick to opening retaining springs?
    I can't seem to be able to replace them to swing away from metal flange on bulbs.
    Must any screws be loosened or removed?
    I would appreciate any assistance or advise.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Hey Bob...now you see why some say it's easier to remove the headlight housing to do the replacement. That retaining spring can be quite tricky with the housing in place and you have to contort your hand in funny ways to manipulate that spring.

    To answer your question, no screws need to be loosened. You actually have to press down on the looped end and as you do, push it away (out) from the bulb and it will come out from under the 'hook' that holds it in place. Getting it out is actually easier than getting it to go back in. You'll see, manipulating the wire and operating that retaining spring with one hand is just so much fun!
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    No trick. Just push the retaining spring in towards the front of the car a little. This is so you can clear the tab that locks the retaining spring in place. You will then be easily able to swing springs out of the way. The only thing that can get in the way then may be your harness. This is just pushed out of the way. Do the passenger side first as you will be able to see the back of the bulb.

    I looked for an illustration for you, but could not find anything that would help. Just remember to push the spring in and swing out of the way. To lock it in, swing the spring back across the bulb (reverse of the removal) and push it in to engage the locking tab.

    I hope it helps you. Good luck!

    Arbee88
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Thanks guys. With your advise, I changed both bulbs in less than 5 minutes, even though I'm 6'3", with large hands.
    Can't wait until its' dark to try them.
    I take it that no adjustment to the position is necessary, as I only changed bulbs, without removing housings.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    You should not have to adjust them. Just a note though: if the bulb pattern does not have the sharp cutoff or it looks unfocused, it may be that the bulb base did not seat flat in the headlight housing. This can happen if you twisted the bulb slightly but still got the retainer spring to lock. If that happens, just release the spring and twist the bulb - it will lock into the right position). Do not adjust the vertical or horizontal alignment in this case. Your cutoffs should look just like it did before you changed the bulb.

    Enjoy the brighter lights!
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    With the advise from others, I have installed the H7 X-Tremes. A simple job!
    Although they appear brighter than the OEM's, there is nowhere near the punch of HID's.
    The bulbs cost $61.00 delivered from UK.
    Took one week to receive, and 10 minutes to install.
  • hjc1hjc1 Member Posts: 183
    Hi Floridabob
    Did these new bulbs eliminate the cut off problems?
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    RE:196
    The pattern seems to be much wider.
    A guess that because they are brighter, I did not notice a cut off pattern on the road.
    When I pull car up to garage door, I can see a distinct cut off. From light beam down is bright. then a distinct line, with complete darkness over line.
    No blend.
    I would like to know what is the actual increase in light output and the brightness on the road at the furthest point.
  • wardswards Member Posts: 17
    I just installed H7 rallye+65{Osram}65w 2100 lumens in the low beam and adjusted the left side up slightly to just about elininate the cut off. These are available Daniel Stern Lighting. Wards.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    This weekend I noticed moisture in the right headlamp assembly. I can't find a crack but I understand it could be so tiny that it could be next to impossible to find. Does anyone have a solution other than replacing the assembly?
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I found this link that looks like it could solve the problem.

    http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/headlights/index.html
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    Has anyone attemped to change out the driving light bulbs??

    From what I understand it involves removing the front bumper..
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Are you referring to the fog lights?
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    Yes...Fog/driving lights...located in the lower bumper area..
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I found a much easier and better solution to the problem of moisture in the headlamps. If anyone encounters the same problem I'll be glad to share.
  • eclaixpeclaixp Member Posts: 46
    Please share with me, I have the same problem.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Member Posts: 213
    I had the Lime green color and think about that car alot.But I doubt I'd want one now. Unless of course it was in perfect condition and it would only be a week end car. Put Koney shocks in it and it road like a truck.Have seen some nice once restored
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