Hyundai Azera Lighting

rgb42

Yeah, the H11 and H11B bases are totally different.

tenpin288

It might be worthwhile to contact Stern and ask about the H11B bulbs. He seems to have access to a wide range and may just have access to the H11B.

allmet33

He may very well have access to an H11B bulb, but the problem is...by it being such a new bulb, companies probably haven't begun making after market applications like the ones out there for the other bulbs that are pretty mainstream.

Right now, it's known that Sylvania makes an H11B, but only as the regular halogens, not the upgraded, Cool Blues, Silverstars or Ultras. I would gather to believe that none of the other makers have jumped on to start making aftermarket upgrades for H11B's yet.

144tap

I ordered, received, and installed the Philips X/T H7's bulbs from the UK, came in about a week. I used both methods for insall. (creation vs evolution). I'm definitly NOT sold on removing the whole lite housing now, I tried that method first. I mean really, to simply twist the cap off reach in, push the spring wire down holding the back of the bulb in and BAM the bulb is free. I had it replaced in a minute. But, I don't see a Big/Huge diff. in OEM vs X/T's. Someday I'll step up to the HID's.

allmet33

Maybe there's a problem with the X/T's...there's a huge difference between the OEM and the Silverstar Ultras. I mean...the OEM bulbs cast a yellowish, dull light that doesn't seem to light the road that well. The Ultras are a clean, crisp white color that lights the road in front of you very well. I won't literally say it's a night and day difference, but the difference is very significant.

I agree with you about the whole idea of removing the headlight housing to change the bulb. I did it once and I was only able to remove one headlight housing successfully, the other one didn't want to come out and I didn't feel like breaking anything in doing so. At any rate...with the housing out...bulb replacement was a snap, but...you have the extra step of removing and replacing the housing.

If you're looking for a good price on the HID's, contact Supreme Power. The guy there offered me an HID set up for mine for $200, he said he also had one for the fog lights as well...package deal, he offered both sets to me for $350. If I wasn't working on some of these home improvement projects, I would have jumped on that deal!!!

psu3

Hi all again,

I've previously described my inability to get my Ultras installed. I could not get the entire light assembly out. I tried to understand the process and only remove the bulbs directly. Still, no luck. I look at the lights with the screw in cap removed (upside down of course) and still not figure out how to remove the bulbs. The lights look like those in Picture B in the manual where it describes bulb replacement. A thorough process description of bulb replacement would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

Steve

prairiedog1

After reading this page I went out and eventually managed to remove the headlight assembly. I removed the nut on the inside then the 2 bolts on top as the Owners Manual shows but it still would not come free so I took out the 4 screws on the top plastic piece that the 2 bolts we attached to. I still had a hard time, but I was patient and just wiggled it a few times gently and it came out. I found that in mine the low beams are the H 11b bulbs. When I put the assembly back in I found that there is a clip on the fender side that the light has to fit into, this is what caused the problem taking it out. A short part of the light assembly fits between two pieces on the body of the car and these fit very snuggly together. Replacement was very easy once I saw where the fit in the bracket.

allmet33

There is a spring clip that you have to locate that keeps the bulb in place. You press it down (or towards the front of the headlight) then push it down (towards the ground) to create clearance of the lip it hooks onto. Swing the entire clip up (towardst he engine) and the bulb will come out and all you'll have to do is remove the bulb from the harness. Make a note of how the bulb is in the harness (there's a tab that sticks out on the flat edge of the bulb flange). Also, make sure you do NOT touch the bulb with your fingers (if you do, wipe it off really well with a clean cloth).

Once you get the bulb in place, the tricky part of working the clip back into place becomes a little test of patience. I say this because the wires for the harness tend to get in the way. So...be patient and work the wires around so you can put the clip back in place to hold the bulb in place and once you're done, screw the dust cap in place and you're done.

psu3

Well I finally got the light assembly out (after much struggling) and to my surprise the low beams are H11b not H7. Back to the drawing board.

BTW If your low beam looks like the one in picture B (in the manual where its explaining replacement process) its the H11b.

Steve

ratledge

Sorry - I've been on leave for a couple of weeks and not paying attention...

Daniel Stern states that there are 3 different configurations - but what I have is H11b low beams, H7 high beams and H8 fog lamps. I put the "OSRAM Rallye" 2100 lumen H9 burner on H7 base bulbs in my high beams - otherwise, I'm good.

allmet33

Ratledge...

Ummmmmmmmmmmm...how did you put an H9 bulb where an H7 bulb should go?

As far as the bulbs go, I'm starting to think that the '06 Azeras were the only ones that use the H7 bulb as the low-beam bulb.

wamba2000

I ordered the Philips Xtreme Power for my '08 Santa Fe and they work well. I replaced the stock bulkbs in my wife's Azera with PIAA bulbs. I have used the Silverstars int eh past, my my last set burned out/filed within 8 months of installation. So far the PIAAs have been going for 2 years.

The Phillips Xtreme are supposed to be 80 % brighter. I didn't do a test , but I do see the sides of the highway better in the dark. YOu can find them online, best to get the size you need and google shopping will help you search.

Good luck to all

144tap

My local Kragens had the Silverstar ultras on sale w/a rebate. So I replaced the Philips X/T's with the ultras, not much difference......except for price. I did put the X/T's in my KIA Sedona. Now that job required me to R&R the lite housing,easily done. The kids,(18,16,14), didn't notice much difference in the OEM's vs X/T's. So, heck with it, I still don't like the "cut off". On another note, Mike, what other things did you have in mind to do to your Zerra before putting in HID's?

ratledge

Well, you cheat: use the "OSRAM Ralleye" 65watt part: Here

It's a 2100 lumen lamp mounted on the H7 base. You may well be right about the H7 low beams being only in '06 models, but I seem to remember somebody saying it was "slipstreamed" in mid-'07 models...

wards

I have a 2006 Azera and both Hi and Low use H7's Wards.

carolinabob

These appear to be new. Has anyone tried them and with what result? My 07 Asera has a build date of 11/06. Anyone tried replacing the bulbs from a car of that period?
Do you really need four bulbs (low & high)?
Do you really have to remove the whole headlight?
Thanks - much appreciated.

allmet33

Hey Bob,

I'm not sure about the new bulbs, I'm still riding with my Sylvania Silverstar Ultras in the low beams. The high beams are still OEM bulbs as I don't really use them much and my fog lights I switched to Nokya Hyper Yellow bulbs.

I can answer...there are 4 bulbs 2 for low & 2 for high, but you don't necessarily have to replace all 4. Also, you don't necessarily have to remove the whole headlight to replace the bulbs either. The 1st time you try replacing a bulb with the headlight in place, it takes some patience, but after you've done it a couple times...it becomes rather easy.

carolinabob

Thanks, as I don't drive that much at night I may not do it, but might try the low beams.
Way back when I had a 71 Dodge Challenger, I installed driving lights. Too bad we can't get bulbs to change the fog lights to driving lights. In the last 30 years, I have never driven in fog at night, even when I was travelling throughout the South for 20,000 miles per year.

allmet33

to be honest, the lower set of lights on most cars now are driving lights. The only way you can make them true fog lights is to put a yellow bulb in them (or use the yellow film), because white light just doesn't work in fog too well. Like you, I've never driven in fog at night, but I've driven through some blizzard like snowfall at night before...WHOA!!!

gamleged

Loved those big Hella and Lucas driving lamps that would send a pair of beams half-a-mile or more out front to let people know they should make way... :shades:

carolinabob

I had Hellas and loved them. Interestingly the manual shows how to change all the bulbs in the car, except the fogs. It says take it to the dealer to change fog lights.

allmet33

I had Hellas and loved them. Interestingly the manual shows how to change all the bulbs in the car, except the fogs. It says take it to the dealer to change fog lights.

Believe it or not, changing the fog light bulbs is quite easy. What you have to do is make sure whichever side you're replacing, turn the steering wheel all the way to the other side to give you room to work. Then...using a flat blade screw driver or putty knive, pop the wheel well liner out so you can work your hand inside of the fender. It takes a little work, but once you figure it out...it's easy. You then have access to the back side of the fog lights. Reach in, grasp it and twist gently to see which way you need to turn it to remove it. The wire is long enough that you can pull it back towards you, unplug the old bulb and put in the new one. Then...it's just a matter of putting it back in place.

boblaw

don't know about horizontal adj. but vertical easy. guess you know this already. qn: i have 2006 azera too. re: piaa h7 bulbs-did you merely replace original bulbs? can this be done by unscrewing back of lite assembly and removing and installing bulbs? did you do this for both lo & hi bulbs? did this make a real difference in visibility? i see on ebay piaa h7 xtreme wht plus 4000k twin pks for $69 one place and another $26. any advise here would be appreciated. what does 4000k mean?
thanks, bob

ratledge

Both the high and low beam bulbs are a simple 30-second (depending on your dexterity) swap-out. Beware that some Azeras have H7/H7 combination (high and low bulbs are the same) while some have H7 high beams and H11b low beam bulbs. There is NO replacement for the H11b made by anyone that I know of at this point - they are a special OSRAM-designed "quick change" H11 bulb with non-standard connectors.

Don't expect much of a change is the actual light output replacing your OEM H7 bulbs with PIAA bulbs. They will look different (i.e. 'blue-er') and the higher the color temp (i.e. 4000K is the bulb's color temperature); the more blue-looking they will be. The best replacement bulbs I've found for the stock/OEM H7 bulbs are the OSRAM "Rallye" 65watt bulbs: from the way they are marketed they are likely NOT street-legal, but I always drive my Azera off-road after dark, anyway. It's basically an H9 (2100 lumen) bulb on an H7 (1400 lumen) base - therefore you're getting a 50% boost in usable light.

The problem with the PIAA bulbs (I've used a LOT of different bulbs in my '03 Infiniti I-35 and my '08 Azera) is that they have very limited life (maybe 150-200 hours vs. standard bulbs which are 400-500 hour rated), tend to actually have LESS usable light due to the blue-colored coating on the bulbs and - at least for the H7-based Azeras, you need MORE light on the road - not less.

My '08 has the H11b bulbs - I haven't had any problem with "over-driving" the headlights complaints many H7-equipped Azeras have mentioned. Having both H7 in the high and low beams means you can swap those bulbs out for the special OSRAM Rallye part and have 50% more light on the road all the time. There is no significant difference in the amount of heat generated by these higher-output bulbs. You should be able to find them for about $20-25 each online. I know "candlepower.com" sells them, but (just checked) they are out of stock. :sick:

Putting 4 of those bulbs in your '06 Azzy should give you 4200 lumens (vs. 2800 lumens for the stock bulbs) with low beams and 8400 lumens (vs. 5600) with high beams on. :shades: Total about $80-100 for a 50% boost in usable light, which is not much more than you'll pay for a pair of PIAA bulbs (depending on the specific bulbs, maybe less) - and you'll be replacing all 4 instead of just the low beams.

boblaw

thanks for the reply. i have been reading about the osram nite breaker. seller says this bulb is a replacement for the oem halogen bulb. it says nothing about a kit having to be used. and seller says illumination is increased by 90%. can anyone advise me about this? price is british pounds 20.
thanks, boblaw

ratledge

In general, the +90 series ("NightBreaker" or whatever) is not going to boost your usable light output by the much, Bob. It should indeed work as a direct replacement for the bulb as long as it is the same Hx model number you are replacing. The only 'fix' for those of us that have H11b low beams is to whittle yourself two H9 sockets in their place and put the 2100 lumen bulbs in place.

claptonhead

By chance I was able to get a good comparison of the Silverstar agaisnt the Silverstar Ultras. I had a headlight bulb go out on a trip at night. I had Silverstars in both headlamps. When the one went out I pulled an "extra" bulb out of the glove box and replaced the Silverstar with a Silverstar Ultra. I wasn't convinced until this comparison but the Ultra was definitely much brighter.

allmet33

Extra bulbs are so nice to have on hand!

wobbly_ears

Guys,

I'm currently running on stock bulbs on my 07 Azzy. However, I'm itching to get the Silverstars on my car. The place where we live is unlighted at night & brighter lights would definitely help.

What I am worried about is the rumor that these replacements don't last as long as the OEMs. I have heard that they go out almost once every 1-2 years. Is that the case? If so, why can't Sylvania make reliable ones as OEMs?

I want brighter light but I want them to last as long as the OEMs. Can you guys help me? I don't want the lights to konk out when my wife is driving as she's not at all mechanically inclined. (Her idea of changing a tire is calling me to do it, lol!!)

allmet33

Wobbly ears...headlights are a funny thing. I've had OEM bulbs go out within the 1st year of ownership. I've also had aftermarket bulbs last longer than a year. The problem is you're dealing with an electrical system and surges can cause bulbs to blow. Other factors are how many miles you're driving and how often you drive at night. Also, if you're the type that drives with your headlights on during the day...you effectively shorten the life of those bulbs greatly because the U.S. Azeras don't have a daytime running light funtion that burns the headlights at a fraction of the voltage as they would with night driving.

In reality, a bulb never goes out at an opportune time and about the only thing you can do is maybe by 2 sets at one time to have spare bulbs on hand in the event one should go out. A light bulb lasting 1-2 years is really, really good (especially halogens). However, according to the lighting experts, we aren't supposed to be waiting for the bubls to blow before replacing them as the bulb naturally grows dimmer over time (which makes sense). You can get a set of Silverstar Ultras for between $35-40/pr. and lasting 1-2 years...that's not a bad return actually.

boblaw

has anyone figured out how to adjust high beams? if the low beams

are adjusted does this affect the high beams?
thanks boblaw

allmet33

boblaw,

If you adjust the low beams...the high beams adjust with it as each adjustment affects the entire headlight housing.

Mike

claptonhead

It does seem to be a good idea to have an extra bulb or two in the car. It seems the haolgen bulbs don't last as long as sealed beams but it's a lot easier to carry a spare.

joew6969

I have a 2009 Hyundai Azera Limited. We all know that the standard halogen bulbs are lousy for night driving, especially out here in rural Ely, NV. There are NO aftermarket bulbs for the H-11B low beam. I found an H.I.D. conversion kit made specifically for the H-11B light bulb. It only costs $120.00 and is available at www.hidguy.net. I am going to order the 6000K kit because it gives the appearance of BMW, Mercedes and Audi like H.I.D.'s. When you view the kit online it describes how the kit fits H-11Bs' without any modifications. As soon as mine arrives and I install it I will post another message and let you know how easy the kit was to install and if I am happy with the look and performance of it.

wobbly_ears

joew6969,

If possible, can you take as many pictures as possible of the process? It would be of great help to those of us who are more visual learners

allmet33

I'm always looking for a way to make my Azera look unique, but still keep it classy. I think I have succeeded. I underlined my headlights with some LED strips. In the pics...I don't have the headlights on as I still need to upgrade the bulbs to a hyper-white bulb so it all blends together. I'm also going to switch my fog lights back from the euro yellow to hyper-white as well. Let me know what you think...

101649

allmet
looks good Are the led strips inside the light cover??? Where did you get the strips??Are they wired separately for independent operation???

allmet33

Thanks man...it took some playing around before I figured out how I wanted it. The strips I picked up from Auto Zone (24" LED light kit with adhesive back). They are wired to come on when the car is running, sorta my answer to daytime running lights as the Azera isn't equipped and I don't like burning my regular headlights since it greatly shortens bulb life. I wired them with the negative running to the battery's negative terminal, and the positive lead is running through my firewall to my fuse box for the cut on.

101649

thanks...did you mount them on the outside of the headlight housing or did you "bake" the housing and take it apart???

allmet33

101649...the LED strips are actually mounted to a small lip on the bumper underneath the front edge of the headlight housing. I didn't feel like baking the headlights and pulling them apart because if you don't put them back together right way, you're asking for condensation build-up in them.

I did, however, remove the headlight housings, cleaned that lip area really good for best adhesion and applied the strips end to end so it looks like one continuous strip. Then I ran the wires for the ones on the passenger side to the ones on the driver's side (I had to splice wire in between using butt connectors). I then ran the wire through the firewall (piggy-backing on my amp power wire) to the fuse box and I'm using a 10 amp source that is only on when the car is running. The negative lead is connected directly to the battery negative terminal.

101649

How many of the "light kits" did you purchase??? One for each side??

Thanks

allmet33

101649...I used one kit per side. The 24" kit is actually 2 - 12" strips. The kit is sold by Auto Zone and the package only says "FLEX LED" at the top. The bottom shows a name of "Alpena".

I had to cut a small notch in the lip at the inside corner of the lip to allow for the strip to lay straight and the wire end would have a place to go. I laid the 2nd strip down by butting the open end against the open end of the first one so it looks like one long continuous strip. The wired end ends up where the turn signal light is. (approx).

For good adhesion, make sure you clean the lip off really well. Install on a fairly warm day (above 70 degrees for best results) and press each strip into place with firm pressure for about 20-30 seconds. Being warmer allows you to shape the strip to the curve of the lip much more easily.

ratledge

VERY nice job, buddy! I'll be looking for you on the highway... Seems we have similar tastes: black is the new silver, eh? My '08 I've messed with a few times trying to figure out how/why you cannot engage the DRL which have to be there or they couldn't sell them in Canada (don't anyone scream at me about the '10 and later models not being "up there"). Has anybody figured that one out? I'm a fed, so I tend to burn mine all the time because I travel to/from Charleston/Columbia between 4:30-6:30am or 7-9PM, but - I'm certainly open to keeping mine burning longer. Curiously enough, the original stock bulbs are still burning after 60,000+. Of course, I've got a couple spares and two spare 2100 lumen high beams in the trunk.

Just how long did the whole shebang take you?

While I'm thinking, has anyone tried putting in a real horn that replaces the wimpy OEM bleet?

allmet33

Thanks man! :shades: Not sure why you're having trouble with DRL's up there, I know all cars sold in Canada have to have DRL's (should be law down here too). I used to run my headlights all the time, but got tired of replacing bulbs all the time because of the shortened lifespan. Well...the LED's have proven to be a very viable solution. During the sunniest of days it's not an issue, but those times when it's just cloudy enough to be gloomy out, but not dark enough to activate the auto lights to come on...they are the perfect answer.

Considering I had to wrestle with getting the headlights out...the total job took me about 1.5 hours. However, now that I know where everything is and how to do it...I can see it taking me between 30-45 mins. if I did it again.

Sorry to hear your horn is rather whimpy...mine is fine. However, replacing it shouldn't be hard...once you locate it.

As a side note, after 4 years I finally found out how to adjust the headlights. I feel so silly...especially after seeing how easy it is! LOL

ratledge

Sorry, I re-read my message and thought the same you did: but I'm in South Carolina. I just noted that there has to be a way since they couldn't have been sold in Canada without the DRLs. I'm not sure what's wrong with my horn, sounds like I'm driving a Pinto or something - maybe only one of them connected or something. I found a good alternative from CandlePower. Will get under the hood and fight 'em until I can blow an 18-wheeler off the road when it's going stupid.

101649

ratledge

watch our for an '06 black on black flying low and fast under the radar thru Columbia on 26 to 77 on the 30th in the late afternoon.....blacked out chrome and a candy apple red "RS" badge on the grill and yellow euro driving light lenses....traveling from Tampa to VA......as Jeremy says on Top Gear..."Out of the way Germans!!!"

shalako

You wrote "after 4 years I finally found out how to adjust the headlights."

Do you know how to adjust the high-beam headlights? In my '06 Azera,
the high beams are aimed too low. My dealer said there is no adjustment.
I do not believe him.

Thanks for any information!

allmet33

I hate to tell you this but looking at things, it would seem the adjustment affects the headlight housing as a whole. It would seem odd that you're high beams are seemingly aimed low and your low beams are fine.

At any rate, to adjust your headlights...there's a neat little piece you can find on the back side of the housing between the low & high beam caps. I have taken a pic of the driver's side headlight so you can get an understanding of where to look (see in yellow circle).



Using a phillips head screw driver, slide the tip of it into the "cuff" and turn it to adjust as needed.

ratledge

hmmm... I'll be here, but unfortunately in detention (LMAO): I work at the DOJ and my shift is 7am-7pm. Es macht immer Spaß mit ihnen oder dem Eigentümer Lexii Uhr bestaunen Sie die Azera, nicht wahr? (I've got a good friend in Copenhagen, so - I can speak Danish and get away with seemingly deutsch.) Helt ærligt det er meget lettere at gå med dansk. (Frankly it is a lot easier to go with Danish) or stick with English. :shades:

yaqui1

Gentlemen: A few years ago, dealing with similar questions on replacement bulbs for my Volvo, I decided to simply use a photographic light meter (most any one will do) on a fixed base (such as a tripot) in front of the car to measure the light intensity from the bulbs. It worked nicely to prove which bulb output the most light.