Hyundai Azera Lighting



  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Fog lights:

    The owner's manual doesnt specify, but does say that the bulb is a 35W and the socket is a PGJ19-1. An internet search gave this :

    35 H8 H8 12V 35W 12V PGJ19-1 BOX 200
    Lamps Duly E1 Homologated


    ECE category Voltage Wattage Lumens Base
    H8 12 35 800 PGJ19-1

    So, evidently, it's an H8.
    And finally, scroll down in the Daniel Stern link below to H8 to find:

    H8 35 712 ECE/SAE. Primarily in fog lamps.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    Hi. I have seen posts by people upgrading the fog light bulbs, but cannot remember where right now. I am sure it would be in one of the Azera forums.

    The stock oem bulb is an H8, 35W halogen bulb. Color temperature is quite yellow compared to my HID headlight bulbs where you can really see the difference. Some references indicated color temperature of approximately 2500K ( I cannot confirm this). Remember when upgrading to stay in the parameters of the original design. Extremely bright or blue colored bulbs will reflect the light back at you in bad weather conditions. Be sure to keep the color temperature under 3000K. Personally, due to the possible loss in functionality, I am not sure I would change the H8 original fogs. The HID in the headlight gives you so much light just in front of the bumper it is really unnecessary (in my opinion). Maybe this is why there are not so many H8 conversion to HID shown.

    Good luck in your decision.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557 this why you see the higher end luxo cars, that come with HID headlights, still have halogen driving/fog lights? Honestly, I always wondered why they were different if HID was supposed to be so much better. Based on the statement you posted makes sense.

    I had considered the HID upgrade to my headlights, but I'm extremely happy with the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs I put in. I am going to change the fog light bulbs to the Silverstars too.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    There is no comparison between the HID headlights and SilverStars (a farce). I found that the SilverStars were poorer at illuminating the road that the stock H7. Sylvania refunded my money when I expressed my dissatisfaction. The deeper the blue tint, the less light you will have. You want a strong white light with only a slight tint of blue for the best lighting.

    You need to sit in a car with HID and look out at the will then see what I mean and will appreciate the vast difference and quality of the HID light. Look for HID lights with a color temperature between 4300K (approx 3200 lumen)and 6500K (approximately 2800 lumen). The Slverstar is less than half of that output as the tint on the glass robs output(see below) (plus HID in theory will last.

    H7 SilverStar Headlight
    High Performance Halogen Headlight - Single filament for use as either high beam or low beam - part number: H7ST
    for more info
    1350 +/- 12% (expect between 1000-1100 lumen in the real world) 55 ~4000K

    Hope this helps!

    PS .. If you want to get a real high output bulb, wait for the new Philips X-treme Power due out this month in the US. Truly high performance with a new design of the filament and quartz glass envelope that pumps out 80% more light than stock.
  • cobrazeracobrazera Member Posts: 352
    Thanks for the headsup on the coming Philips bulb. I seldom drive at night ( I'm retired and do my driving when traffic is the least ), but on the occasion when I have, must agree that the lights on the Azera need some kind of help.

    Re the HID aftermarket light kits that are out there - it seems that the factory HIDs all seem to have some sort of self leveling device in order to prevent searing the eyeballs of oncoming motorists. Is that a law either here or abroad?
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    Not all HID lights have self levelers, though the majority do and some also have headlight washers. I would not put HID in a reflector style headlamp due to the glare from the lesser focused design of the system. The Azera has projectors which are a natural fit. The reason why so many people complain is the same reason why HID is such an easy fit. The cutoffs prevent the glare from hitting oncoming drivers in the eyes. I thought the stock bulbs, Osram H7 (1500 lumen) really did an exceptional job in quality and distance for a basic halogen bulb. But, I believe in strong lighting for safety.

    Yes, technically the HID conversions are off road use only just for that reason. I took special care in my conversion to be sure the cutoffs remained properly adjusted (as well as the light height) after the conversion. Acura models - some have levelers, some are fixed position projectors.

    PS..only convert the low beam - if you are doing the high beam you are asking for trouble + are not considerate to other drivers.
  • wardswards Member Posts: 17
    My concern with installing HIDS is that in Canada our HI Beam is on at partial power as a daytime running light.
    How would that affect a HID lamp?
    Maybe I should just stick with a good halogen bulb.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    I never said there was a comparison between HID and Silverstars. I merely stated that I considered the HID upgrade, but that I'm very satisfied with just changing the stock bulbs out to the Silverstars.

    The Silverstars I have don't have the deeper blue tint, they are actually a brilliant white and the road is much clearer at night than the stock bulbs allowed for.

    Also, I like to leave my light switch on the "auto" setting and from my understanding...the HID's don't really like that upon intial start up of the car.

    Personally, I just don't see the HID's being worth that money to me. However, I do think I'll look into the Philips X-treme power bulbs. I think I'll compare them to the Silverstar Ultras which are a better design than the regular Silverstars.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    The HIDs are a low beam replacement. I have seen in some makes that the HID installation instructions suggest disabling the DRL before installing. The concern is that the DRL will take some power from the HID ballast causing flickering of the HID bulb (or worse, no ignition). This would not be something that I would suggest, especially if they came in a car as mandatory equipment. I would look into Hi output halogens such as the new Philips X-treme Power coming to North America this month, so says Philips.

    Good luck!
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    The auto feature was my concern too. The kit I purchased (only 119.00 total) has no problem with the auto function as the ignition is very fast. The only thing I did not care for was the flash of the lights when starting up the car. I try to remember to turn off the switch before starting...but if I don't, I have not encountered any problems yet. It has been about a month and I do a lot of nighttime driving.

    You may want to do a search online - the X-treme Power bulbs have been available in Europe for several years. It has gotten rave reviews and are always selling out!

    You may want to remember, if the HID is good, they should last the life of the car. Halogens, (Sylvania recommends they be replaced yearly as they are subject to dimming), especially high performance are good for about 100 hours of on time. In three years, you will have paid the same cost as the HID kit.

    Good Luck! ;)
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    See...that's the problem there, I don't want to have to worry about what position my headlight switch is in at all. I'm concerned that intial flash upon ingnition of the car on a regular basis would do something to the ballasts or something.

    Maybe I'll check back in a few months to see if anyone has had any problems and move forward from there. For now...I'll stick with the halogens.

    Thanks for the info though, you've made a compelling case for the HID's. If I do upgrade, I'll definitely keep my fog lights as halogens and either use the Silverstar Ultras or those Philips Xtremes you've mentioned. ;)
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    Another inexpensive solution is to go to H7 65W bulbs. The 10W difference is not high enough to couse a heating or electrical problem. The even higher 80-100W bulbs might attract unwanted attention and heat and electrical problems.

    The 65W bulbs provide a significant upgrade over stock.

    The only obvious drawback is that they are illegal. That aside, you have the same cutoff as stock, but a much brighter bulb. With the projectors on the Azera, they really help. While much brighter they have not attracted any law enforcement attention. I think cops are now so used to seeing the brighter HID lights that these slightly higher wattage lights are not even noticed as being much different. They are under $30 ea. and you need four for a full exchange. Some may just to two for either low or high beams.
    Go to
  • wardswards Member Posts: 17
    I've decided to install replacement halogens. H7 for low beam and H1 for hi beam.
    Has anyone tried the PIAA Xtreme white
    plus same specs in H1 and H7.
    DOT[street legal]
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    Wards, I replaced the stock halogen bulbs with PIAA H7's. Also adjusted height upwards slightly, HMAservice website has specs for height.

    The light is whiter, but not to HID brightness. I am watching durability, as others have said PIAA's don't last long. Time will tell, good luck
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Does anyone know when the Philips X-tremes will be available in H-7?
    They are now taking orders in UK.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    If you want to get a real high output bulb, wait for the new Philips X-treme Power due out this month in the US. Truly high performance with a new design of the filament and quartz glass envelope that pumps out 80% more light than stock.

    Philips claims that they will be out this month in N.A...but seeing how Europe has been backlogged - not too sure unless they are making them here as well.

    If you find them,, let us know.

    Good Luck!
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I have read that the PIAA bulbs have a short life spand in the realm of headlight lights. I adjusted my headlights to the factory specs which got rid of the "line" amd provided much better night vision. I am thinking of changing the low beams to the Silverstar Ultras.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Several UK companies are accepting orders for them now The price is $61.00 per pair. The companies can be found by searching Philips X-tremes on browser. The state that are are backlordered,but will be arriving soon.
    Has anyone had experience with these particular bulbs?
  • eclaixpeclaixp Member Posts: 46

    How did you adjust the headlights to get rid of the cuttoff? I went to > Shop > Engine Electrical System > Lightning system > Head Lamps > Head Lamp Aiming Instructions. However, the steps are quite unclear to me.
    On step three:
    "Draw vertical lines (Vertical lines passing through respective head lamp centers) and a horizontal line (Horizontal line passing through center of head lamps) on the screen."
    What do they mean by "screen"? Do they mean to draw these lines on a flat veritcal surface such as a board on a wall?
    On step four:
    "With the head lamp and battery in normal condition"
    What do they mean by battery in normal position?

    Please advise. Hopefully someone can guide me with "for dummies" instructions. :blush:
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    pahefner, I had Silverstars in two vehicles. In my Honda, the bulbs lasted a really short time. Replaced with GE NightHawks.

    Will see what the PIAA longevity is
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    When you say "...a really short time." Care to give us a timeframe? I just put the Silverstars in about a month ago (give or take a week). If they do burn out soon, then I will be looking at the Philips X-treme bulbs mentioned on here.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Post #55 on this thread (and a few following) has the info and had a few photos which aren't there anymore.

    Hood open, looking from the front of the car, note the battery case. From the right edge of the battery case, along a line toward the front of the car, look down to find a little plastic "funnel" thingy. Above that there's a plastic bit with a hole through it. Insert a Phillips screwdriver through that top hole, down inside the "funnel" (the two together are there to align your screwdriver) and the "working end" of the Phillips will be contacting a little gear which will run your light up or down. The passenger side has a like arrangement...
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    fyi I just checked and saw the photos, and reference to car you might find the photos there, I didn't check though.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    The other references to post 55 are the best reference. Just look for the little "funnel" looking thing as stated. If I remember correctly turning the screw clockwise raises the lights. You can experiment to see if I'm right. It's a very easy adjustment. Much easier than any other vehicle I've ever had. I didn't use a grid or anything. I simply did it in the garage and parked the car about ten feet from the wall and when the top of the "line" reached 29 inches I stopped there. I drove the car and raised them another partital turn and the line is gone.
    For everyone, thanks for the feedback on the Silverstar Ultras. If I do any changes I'll wait for the Phillips light.
    For me I just don't think I need HIDs. After cataract surgery and two new Cystalens implants my night vision is much better. As a mature man I'm just not interested in HIDs. I'd rather spend my money on other things.
    As for now, simply adjusting the light to get rid of that line did the job for me.
    As for Sylvanias, I did put Sylvania Xtravisions in my 99 Jeep Cherokee and they made a huge difference in the visibility for distance and side vision. They have been in over two years and are still working. However, they are sealed beam headlamps.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The pictures display fine for me. Maybe there was just some kind of a glitch when you looked at them.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442

    Still can't see 'em! I saw them back after they were first posted, but now there're just big blank spaces with notes appended. Tried disabling pop-up blocker and emptying cache, with no improvement. Some other photos appear OK (but some not)... for example, I can't see the shots in post #4, but CAN see the photo in post #5! I'm perplexed... :confuse:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    If you right click on one of them, you should have a choice that says something like Show Picture or View Image. Does clicking on that make them display? If not, I guess maybe you could go to the person's CarSpace page to see them. They might show up here after you do that because they will be in your browser's cache.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    Interesting... I can't go to

    I type it into the address bar, click and... nada! Which explains why I can't see photos stored there...but I useta could... :confuse:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Well, that link in your post is bad. It looks okay, but it's actually trying to go to "!" - that ! is breaking it. Try this one:

    If that link doesn't work, go to the Help link at the very bottom of the page and use the form in the Contact Us tab to report this. That should get to the right person to look at it. Can you get to your own CarSpace page? Give them as much information as you can. Let me know how it goes.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    The "!" was my fault, and I thought I'd gotten rid of it, but a mouse-over shows it to still be there. Anyhoo I'm guessing that some part of my security just doesn't like and I'd never tried to open an account there, I'd used PhotoBucket. I even temporarily backed off my ZoneAlarm from High to Medium internet security, but to no avail... [nose pressed to window looking in icon]... :(
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You don't have to open an account at, you have one by being a member here.

    Anyway, we need to stop disrupting this discussion. Email me if you want to talk about it further. :)
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Member Posts: 146
    The Silverstars lasted about one year in very limited night time driving. I've had them in other cars with better results.

    I will chak out the Philips X-Powers that are mentioned
  • shalakoshalako Member Posts: 4
    Your pictures solved my problem for the low-beam headlights.
    Many thanks!

    Does anyone know how to aim the HIGH-BEAM headlights
    on a 2006 Hyundai Azera? My dealer did nothing though I
    complained several times about misaligned headlights.
  • kjangkjang Member Posts: 17
    Hello everybody

    I finally installed a McCulloch HID kit w/ 6000k bulbs.
    I love the color and the fact that it wasn't too hard to install. However, I noticed that left beam faintly shaking and, on a long drive, it really distracts my view. Does anyone have idea what might have caused such problem?
    Is this company( the one that makes McCulloch HID kits?

    Thank you in advance! =)
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    Recheck the lamp mounting clip. Be sure that the locator tab on the bulb is 'locked' in to the mounting properly before latching the tab. Dd you remove the headlight housing? If so, recheck that bolts are securely locked down.

    Do your 6000K bulbs emit a white light with a tint of blue or a blue beam that is white at the center?

    Good luck.
  • cwj3620cwj3620 Member Posts: 14
    Regarding HID install kit What does "arbee88" mean by "You will need a 1" boring bit to drill the hole in the dust caps of the headlights" Can anyone explain.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    On projector headlights, such as those on the Azera, there are 'dust' caps on the rear of the headlight housing. These caps must be removed to access the headlight bulbs. The HID kit harness must pass through this dust cap to connect to bulb harness from the car and to the ballast. The grommet to seal in the harness to the cap is just under 1" in diameter. That is what the boring bit is needed for. It is for wood boring.

    See below as an illustration...
    good luck

    Installation Instructions

    Please Note: Due to the unique headlight housings of certain vehicles, some installation may require more work than others. In certain installations, removal of the bumper and/or headlight housings may be necessary. Please refer to your service manual for details.

    All of our Xenon HID headlight conversion kits are plug-and-play. No wire-cutting or socket modification are required. Just follow the step-by-step instruction below.

    Check to make sure you have the following components:
    A. Ballast(s)
    B. HID Bulb(s) and wiring harnesses
    C. Ballast bracket(s)

    (1) Disconnect the car battery. Remove the factory light bulbs. If your vehicle's headlights have dust caps, please remove them as well.

    (2) If your vehicle is equipped with headlight dust caps, drill an 1" (24mm) hole to accommodate the wiring harness.

    (3) Remove the xenon HID bulb from the protective casing. Be careful NOT to touch the bulb. Handle it by its plastic base. If any grease or dirt gets on the bulb wipe clean with rubbing alcohol.

    (4) Put the bulb's wiring harness through the dust cap (as illustrated). Insert the xenon HID bulb into your headlight and secure. Connect the spade terminals (positive & negative) to the factory headlight wiring harness.

    (5) Insert the rubber boot (on the wiring harness) through the hole on the dust cap (which you drilled earlier).

    (6) Connect the bulb to the ballast. The quick dis-connects will "click" once fully secured.

    (7) Find a mounting location for the ballast. Use the ballast bracket, screws or zip-ties as needed.
    *Do not drill holes on the ballast box.
    *Mount away from moving components.
    *Mount to a secure location.

    (8) Check your vehicle's headlight fuse. Make sure it is rated at 20AMPS or higher. Replace the fuse with a 20 AMP fuse if your headlight fuse is of a lower rating.

    (9) Reconnect the battery cables.

    (10) Turn light switch on and allow your new xenon light to run for 10 minutes.">

  • cwj3620cwj3620 Member Posts: 14
    WOW, thanks for the detailed response. I imagine that this "drilling" procedure would be required of any HID kit on the Azera? Yes/No?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Great post! Why not copy that into a "how-to" over in the new CarSpace Guides section? That will make it easier for folks to find in the future. Besides, creating guides is fun. :)
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    Yes it would be. The wires need to pass through from the bulb harness to the ballast and then back to the hid bulb. It seems that most of the kits I have seen require a 1" or 7/8" hole for the grommet. Check your kit before drilling in case it is different.
  • kjangkjang Member Posts: 17
    I checked the bulb exactly what you said, but it doesn't seem to be an install problem. The bulb is actually fixed so tight that I couldn't easily remove. I'm not an expert, but it seems like there's problem to the bulb itself or the controller.

    The ebay seller never replies me back. Can I file a claim with PayPal? I can't find a way to claim the warranty. ERRR

    To answer your question, it's more like a white light with a tint of blue. Everybody around me likes the color.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    Just so you know what the problem is, try reversing the ballasts or bulbs. If, when reversed, you have the same problem, you will know where the trouble is.

    Try using ebay to contact the customer. Information on how is shown on their help pages. Never know, maybe the seller is out of town. Does he have any other auctions running?

    Good Luck
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    I just installed a set of these bulbs, and was AMAZED at the difference. I am FINALLY able to see the road, both in illumination just in front of the car, and distance (about double the stock & those "blue" aftermarket ones).

    I tried just the low beams, but am thinking of installing them for high beams as well.

    Well worth the $54 I paid.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    I have been waiting to replace my high beams with the x-treme power bulbs by Philips. Where did you purchase yours? I installed HID in the low beams and am very happy with them.

    I installed 5000K color temp lamps..wanted the bright white crisp light not necessarily the blue.
  • gamlegedgamleged Member Posts: 442
    I searched for these a couple of months back, but no stores carry them here...
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    I purchased from Power Bulbs, Ltd out of the U.K. See

    They arrived in only 1 week.

    I am very pleased with their service, and the product.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I just ordered a pair of the Phillips X-treme Power H7 bulbs. I can't find them anywhere in the USA. I emailed Phillips about USA availability and they don't have a projected date. I hope I am as pleased with their service as you. I will post again after receipt and installation of the bulbs.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    I got my Phillips X-treme power bulbs and replaced the low beams today. They are bright but no one has flashed their lights at me yet. I'll report back when I have had a chance to drive them on a dark road out of the city.
    By the way, if you are replacing your light bulbs be prepared for some amount of effort in getting the headlamp assembly out. Take your time and you will succeed but be prepared to spend some time "tinkering" with the best way to remove the assembly. My cousins Saturn required no tools to remove the headlamp assembly. They use a unique set of "pins" that you simply turn and pull out instead of bolts and screws. It's a pretty neat feature but there was still a problem in removing the lamp assembly once it was disconnected.
  • arbee88arbee88 Member Posts: 29
    Why did you remove the headlight housings? You can replace the bulbs by removing the dust covers and then remove and replace the bulb. The service manual says to remove the housings, but it isn't so! (I have done it with the HID bulbs.)

    Enjoy the new bulbs..should be good.
This discussion has been closed.