Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems

in Oldsmobile
I hear clicking sounds behind the stearing weel ANd when I opened there is a clicking sound in the fuse box.
My internal ligths work.the radio the horn and the external light are not working.
I do not know what to do.....
My nidles on the metering are jumping like crazy........
Please help
My internal ligths work.the radio the horn and the external light are not working.
I do not know what to do.....
My nidles on the metering are jumping like crazy........
Please help
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Comments
The exact same thing happened to my wife's intrigue recently. I tried jumping it but it did not cause it to fire. However, i did notice that more dash lights worked when trying to jump it. I concluded there was probably a battery problem so I replaced the battery on the car. It didnt fire up after changing the battery either. What finally got it going again was to put the key in the ignition and turn it on and off quickly. After doing this repeatedly it turned on and has not given us any problems since. I am suspicious that there was a problem with the starter but when struck enough times it will work. Hope this helps
While it is nice having the ignition on the dash instead of the column, it does make for other problems like this.
Forum wisdom seems to indicate P/N 10464395 should be superceeded by P/N 10464469
Any suggestions help,
Thank you
HTH
No. Not really. You need to supply more info.
The battery is only for starting the car. Once the car starts the alternator is your power source. Is your dash charge indicator lit. Also be aware that there is a fusible link in the red wire from the alt to the bat. I believe the wire goes to the power distribution box before it goe sto teh bat. The fusible link should be there at the box.
1. Put a volt meter across the battery,
Should read 12 volts.
Lower than 9, probably will not engage the starter.
Turn on headlights should not drop less than 2 volts
2. Get the car started,(boost it) the voltmeter should read in excess of 13.5 volts. If so then the battery is being supplied a charge. Idiot light on dash sould be off.
Turn on blower motor to high, voltage should drop and then recover back to the 13.5 volts or whatever you had before you you turned on blower.
With blower on turn on headlights, should drop again and recover again.
If so then alt is probably good.
3. Drive the car for 10 min. Shut off everything and connect the volt meter, if it is not 12 volts then the battery is dead or not taking a charge .
Turn on the headlight and read voltage, if it drops below 10 volts, same as above.
4. Disconnect the neg post first and then the positive and clean up any corrosion, reconnect positive first and then negative.
Be aware that gm has problems with the big red boot connector at the bat. sometimes it breaks internally.
Repeat voltage readings.
cheers
"it seems many GM car has an anti-theft system known as PassLock. It contains an anti-sensor in the ignition lock cylinder housing and a small magnet contained in the ignition lock cylinder.
With the proper key in the ignition cylinder, the cylinder will rotate freely and will be "timed" as it rotates to the start position.
the sensor relays a voltage signal to the BCM (body control module), which determines if the sensor signal is correct.
If all requirements are met, a code is sent to the PCM (powertrain control module) to issue fuel injection pulses to the fuel injectors.
This allows the auto to start and run.
The malfunction could be caused by something as simple as the ignition cylinder not rotating freely to faults in the sensor, wiring or BCM."
It is definitely a problem with a number of Gm midsize vehcles. If you check out the GM minivan forum, it seems to be a problem even with the newer minivans.
Check post 294 & 334 of this forum. they may be the most help to you.
You need to unscrew the two black cargo net wingnut thingys.
After this, reach in behind the trunkliner covering the lamp assembly, there is at least one more platic wing nut to spin off before the lamp falls out. Remember not to overtighten when putting back on.
cheers
I've been having some problems with my 99 Intrigue. It's got close to $200000 kms.
First of all, my sunroof will not close properly. It will slide back and forth no problem, but when it is supposed to move up and down to tighten the seal, the sunroof refuses to move. Any ideas here?
Secondly, while driving - or even at a light or stop sign, the car will stall out of nowhere for absolutely no reason.
Third, my lights are supposed to turn on and off automatically, is this just a matter of replacing a fuse? This also seems to be affecting my fog lights which will not turn on at all.
Fourth, anyone know how I can catch the little [non-permissible content removed] that threw a beer bottle through my driver side - rear window last night?
Thanks!
Frammer
2) first guess, crankshaft sensor. Common issue
3) Never heard of this. Check fuses.
4) place a six pack of beer next to your car and when the bugger bends over to take one, shoot him with BB gun.
Hi again,
My front turn signals only turn on and do not flash. The back ones do a quick flashing..and I have the annoying fast clicking sound when giving a signal.
I took my car in to the shop and had the signals fixed three times. Each time I would get my car the signals would work properly for a few days then they revert back to the same problem. I wasted so many hours having my husband take me to the shop to drop the car off.
Any ideas on this?
No need to have a mechanic do this job. The whole headlight assembly comes right out. Your husband or u should be able to do this repair.
Look at the bad bulb, If it looks burned at its base then that is the problem. Another possibility is the turn signal flasher unit but I doubt it.
I can't wait!!
Chad
200 Intrigue 3.5 Twin Cam 120,000 miles on odometer and on its second engine. The first change was at 89,000 miles but the second had only 38,000 when it was placed inside.
Also try doing a Google search on code P0301. there is tons of information on the internet diagnosing these codes.
First, you must measure the bat voltage while you turn the key.
It must not go below 9 volts to engage the starter. Normally it will drop to about 10 volts. If it drops below 9 then the bat is toast or discharged.
You must also determine if the click is from the starter relay (in the control box under the hood) or the starter solenoid(on the starter).
As well, there is a crank fuse (40 amp)in the control box that allows 12 volts through the starter relay to the starter solenoid
good luck
I went back to the garage and no leaks and oil level is OK? They also pulled the codes and nothing? Could this be a sensor? Bad wire anyone else have the same issue? If a sensor were would it be located?
Due you also know if I can diagram on the Net (Free) for this car?
I'm trying to stay away of the $90/hr GM charge?
I have a '99 Intrigue with two issues:
1. Busted Window Cable:
I was having problems with the driver window switch and while attempting to toggle the window up and down, somehow the cable in the window motor got caught in the motor and busted. I'm looking for help on 3 things: Where does the cable connect to the window (diagram?); Where can I get a replacement cable; Any tips for re-wrapping the cable inside the motor?
2. Occasional Starting Problems:
Usually the car starts fine, but recently it dies out on me right after the initial ignition. I've noticed that it typically happens after I drive somewhere and then come back to start it within an hour or so. So, when I go to work in the morning and leave to come home it's fine. But, if I try and go somewhere soon after getting home, it starts acting up. I've been able to get it started by holding the ignition longer, but it doesn't work every time. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help everyone!
Second, starting problem. This cost me several hundred dollars to get identified and several returns to the shop. The fuel pressure regulator is a vacuum controled rubber diaphram on the fuel injector rail. It develops a pin hole leak. This dains a few ounces of gas into the intake when you turn off the engine because the rail stays under pressure. If you park the car with a warm engine, and come back, this extra fuel vapor fools the engine sensors into thinking the engine is running very rich. This causes the engine to stall out when the electronics try to correct for this. When the car sits for an extended period the extra fuel condenses and doesn't hit the engine with super rich vapor on startup so everything seems fine when your mechanic starts the car after leaving it in his parking lot for a couple of hours. Get it fixed or it will drive you nuts.
And, yes, it's amazing how flimsy the cable attachments are. Were they made of steel instead of plastic, they would last longer than the car... :P
HTH