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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    You said it, not me. 'Anks.
  • kjack100kjack100 Posts: 133
    The rubber mats that Toyota sells are great in the front. The rear are two piece and don't cover near as well as the standard one piece carpeted mat.

    I tried the Weathertech classic premium semi-custom rubber mats you cut yourself for the rear, and they didn't work well at all. What does work great for the cargo area is the WeatherTech liner. I think you can find that at
  • Does anyone know without me actually pulling one off and trying it on, if the wheels off a '93 LC will fit my 98 Tacoma 4x4? There is one in the junkyard here. I am pretty sure they are 16", but will the bolt pattern work?
  • lpc68lpc68 Posts: 45
    I've read on the board that its not recommended to turn the rotors/drums every time you change pads or shoes. would someone please tell me what is the recommended interval for turning? is it every other change?

    last time i changed pads i asked them to just deglaze the rotors. can i do that again?

    as usual, thanks in advance.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537

    It's a 6 bolt pattern that's a Toyota 6 bolt standard, so that will fit. But the LC axle hole is larger than that on your Tacoma, so the wheel will not be hub centric as it is designed. Hub centric simply means the hub/axle is supposed to fill that hole so precisely that it's touching and bearing most of the vehicle's weight. As a result, your Taco's weight will be born by the studs alone, which it is not designed to do. Your Taco wheels are also hubcentric to keep the weight on the hub/axles. Also, the wheel offset on these 8" wheels is likely different from your Taco wheels.

    Having said that, I am interested in the wheels myself and was wondering what they are asking for them. My email is Thanks in advance!

    On the rotors, I only turn them if they're warped (you'll feel pulsing) which is often going to cause them to warp again sooner since you're removing metal. Personally, I just put new pads on myself each time they wear out and don't pull the rotors.

  • Doug,

    Thanks for the in depth info on the wheels. I will stop by and find out the pertinent info for you. The vehicle looks like a rollover, but the two wheels I can see from the road look round. I'll try to pass the info. If you're actually in Idaho, the shipping may be hell from TN.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I'm in Boise and I go to east Tennessee a couple of times a year.

    Too bad there's no buying or selling permitted on Town Hall :-)

    Steve, Host
  • I have a 99 LC. There is a slight rattle coming from what sounds like the lower dash; it's faint and can only be heard with the radio off/sunroof shut, and occurs at low speeds or when accelerating. I've traced it to (what I believe) is the 4WD hi/lo shifter. When the rattle occurs (typically at lower rpms) and I'm coasting, I can make it disappear by slightly nudging the shifter up (towards hi). It's not affecting performance but is generally annoying. Two questions: Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there a fix? Thanks in advance...
  • I also only turn the rotors if they are warped. Every time you turn the rotor, you are removing a thin layer of surface material and thus reducing the life of the rotor. If this causes a slight increase in brake pad wear, I haven't noticed. Besides, pads are cheaper than rotors.

    As for brake pads wearing out quicker on the rear of '00-up TLC, I wonder if the VSC is engaging the rear pads on the inside wheel when you make sharp turns, hence eventually wearing the rear pads out first. My guess is that VSC has reduced the life expectancy of brake pads on the newer TLC, since the brakes are now performing the work previously done by locking/limited slip differentials. In the long run, this may actually increase the differential life at the expense of brake life. Since brakes are easier/cheaper to service, this may not be a bad trade-off.
  • larrslarrs Posts: 6
    I need to purchase tires for my LX450.
    Should I stick with the Michelin LTX ?
    My driving is not off road. I've heard whatever tire used it must have good sidewall strength for safe handling. I would appreciate hearing any other recommendations.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537

    The stock 275/70 is a fairly unusual size and if you want to keep stock sizes, the choices are:

    Bridgestone Desert Dualer - a horrible tire that was recently redesigned into a good tire.
    Michelin LTX M+S - a very good tire that's been around for eons and is highly rated.
    Michelin Cross Terrain - an excellent tire that will likely replace the LTX and is better in nearly every measure but a tad more expensive. I'd choose this one, personally.

    Sidewall strength is not the strong suit of the LTX, and the Cruiser requires no particular tire characteristics in this area. In fact, some feel the LTX sidewalls are rather weak. They and the new Cross Terrain do preserve the Cruiser's ride qualities, however - especially the Cross Terrain.

    Since you are full time 4WD, be sure to replace them all at once, and of course rotate and monitor pressures, blah blah.

  • larrslarrs Posts: 6

    Thanks once again.
    I've heard of the cross terrain and am starting to see it more and more on vehicles.Probably will go that route. Have you had experience with www.Tire ?

    My dash indicator light for drive (D) is out.
    P,R,2 and 1 all light up okay. Do you know where the problem lies. Is it a dash bulb ?
    Never experienced this before.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    The bulb is out. Common as it's illuminated the most. Remove the plastic covering on the steering column and remove enough of the dash to pull out the speedo cluster. Pull off the PCB in the back and replace the bulb. Not necessary to remove the steering wheel, but it makes the job easier.
  • I own a 2001 Landcruiser and I do some of my own service such as rotating the tires. If I use the jack supplied in the vehicle and the jack point described in the owners manual, I cannot raise the front tires off the ground because the jack limits are reach before the wheel is fully articulated. To raise the vehicle higher, I have to put 2 2x4's under the jack; ok for when I am in my garage, but not the kind of luggage I usually carry with me. Wondering if there is a better jack point or if anyone else has run into that situation. I asked the local dealer and they had no other input on this. Seems to me Toyota could provide a jack that raises the tires off the ground. Thanks.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    More than likely the jack has more extension left in it. Anyway, buy a floor jack to do your car work, especially tire rotation. Costco has them for a reasonable price.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537

    I've heard only good things about TireRack and on a trip this summer I actually visited their HQ and picked up a set of winter tires for my Cruiser. With their low prices and no shipping I saved big. However, I've never had them ship tires as I find that I can come withing a few bucks locally by being aggressive and local purchase means free rotations for life, road hazards, etc. I'm willing to spend a bit more for local purchase and I suggest you price it out fully before going with tire rack. By the time you add shipping for bulky tires, and then pay to have them mounted, you're not always saving much.

    As for jacking, I never jack up the body. It's much faster and easier to put the jack under the front suspension member and lift only 2 inches to remove a tire on the road. On the rear you can use the axle. This is far more stable and safe than leaning the entire body just to lift a tire. To use this jack at home to rotate, you'll need a jack stand or the like to hold that corner up while you put the jack on another corner to get a tire for rotating. But on the road, you'll not need this unless you're in the habit of rotating your tires while on the road. ;-) Don't forget to use anti-sieze on the threads and a torque wrench so you don't warp your rotors from over tightening the lugnuts.

  • rph74rph74 Posts: 14
    My 99 tlc's odometer intermittently malfunctions. It counts the miles accurately, but the display for one of the digits doesn't always read properly. For instance, all of the lines in the number 3 might not all print out. Anyone have any fixes besides replacing the whole instrument cluster?

  • My friend in Seattle is going to do his own oil change on his '02 LX470. However, he can't seem to locate the oil filter. Where is it located, and can it be accessed from above the engine compartment? TIA!
  • kjack100kjack100 Posts: 133
    On the '02 Landcruiser, there is a piece of sheetmetal plate about 6" round toward the front left(driver's side) undercarriage. There is a bolt on that you remove to remove that plate and there it is.

    I saw this at an oil change place. Look forward to doing it myself now.
  • The 02 TLC DVD player is located in the front. Apparently the 03 has an optional second row monitor, does any body know if the second monitor in the second row can be installed in the 02 TLC?
    Thank you
  • For the do-it-yourselfers; what kind of oil filter are you using? On my 1984 TLC I almost always used a OEM Toyota filter. I got a zillion miles from the engine too. Now on my 2000 TLC I will probably do the same. And you? Also on anti-freeze; the Toyota brand with all the correct additives (?) is about $17.00 a gallon. Whew! That's a far cry from Prestone at roughly $6.00 a gallon (and cheaper on sale). Is the Toyota brand worth it? I have a lot of faith in the OEM parts/supplies.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    There are a few diehards who, like myself, believe in stock Toyota parts and feel the Toyota Red antifreeze is the best. It is silica free, and the very best quality you can buy - period. For my money however, this is one of the rare exceptions when I don't think it's worth it for a stock part. I use the 5yr/100,000 mile stuff, but change it out annually. I feel changing the fluid out is more important than putting such high cost antifreeze in there.

  • 9411794117 Posts: 39
    Nice but they show a picture of a GX, not an LX or an LC

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Someone (Diploid) mentioned that elsewhere - hopefully it'll get fixed tomorrow.

    Steve, Host
  • 9411794117 Posts: 39
    I got a 2001 LX470 instead of a Land Cruiser because I could get one for $10K off of MSRP. Fine. But what about service? The Lexus dealership strongly recommended that the transmission fluid, transfer case oil and front and rear differential fluid be changed at my 15,000 mile service.

    I said to go by the book so instead of charging me $460 (or so) they only charged about $85 (plus another $100 for replacing two A/C air filters, which they weren't going to do).

    So now my paperwork says "Cust. refused 15K service" which means I refused their service (as opposed to what Toyota says to do).

    Question: For non-heavy duty operation, how often should the transmission fluid be changed? The book says to inspect every 15K miles but doesn't seem to ever say to replace.

    I like the features on the Lexus but I don't like dealing with the static I get from the service salesmen. Maybe I'll take it to the Toyota dealership that's three miles away for service in the future.

    The 2003 LX470 towing capicity is only rated at 5000 lbs. this year but the Land Cruiser is still rated at 6500. Funny.
  • hicairahicaira Posts: 276
    Expect the same high pressure for unneeded services at the Toy dealer. They make a bundle on this, and, for the most part, the service writers get a commission when you bite.

    At 30 k they will try to sell you fuel injection cleaning, throttle body cleaning, power steering flush, etc., etc. All unnecessary at that mileage unless you abuse the heck out of your car and are running Pemex 85 octane gas.

    My .02, anyway.

  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Just keep your receipts and be sure what you have done keeps pace with the factory's recommended service intervals. If you don't, and have a problem (unlikely on this vehicle), it may require some legwork to get warranty coverage.

    That comment about you refusing is for this reason: The service manager at a modern dealership gets paid to increase the profit per customer and the service writer (who wrote that) is under his or her thumb. The SM gets monthly statistics on how many customers accept their added service level and when he looks at the paperwork there had better be some indication the service writer tried to sell you the extra stuff. Just like at McDonald's (Would you like an apply pie today, sir?).

    I'd stick with factory intervals on all items. The code words are "Please service my vehicle for the miles it has and the FACTORY's recommended services, NOT your dealership's recommendations. Thank you."

  • 9411794117 Posts: 39
    In the end, I did get exactly what the book said to do. I'm still a little confused over the factory's recommendation for transmission service - it's basically inspect every 15K (but never an automatic replacement). Unlike a lot of Toyota products, it still uses Dexron II (or III).

    I'm thinking 30K miles is a lot more reasonable service interval for the trans. fluid. I don't think I'll ever go back to that dealership.
  • The reason for the inspection is simply to be sure the fluid level's topped up properly, since that's far and away the #1 reason auto trannies die - low fluid. Unless you tow, or offroad a lot, there's no need to change it at 30k. Believe me, even the factory intervals are designed to be a bit conservative, so short changing things like that could easily be a waste of your money.

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