Kia Sedona (2005 and Earlier)

hoyahenry

Push the green dot in the center of the control when illuminated for ac and it should become un-illuminated. I should think this de-activates the ac compressor - but maybe it just turns the light off Kind of like wondering if the fridge light really goes out when you close the door....

Thanks for the filter info. Who makes the pur one? I think I would go with the STP as that is made by Champion, which is highly regarded.

Also, would the bigger filter you're considering put it at risk of being below the skid plates, and/or otherwise susceptible to road fod damage?

bluedevils

Thanks, I'll have to cycle the light on/off and observe.

I don't remember exactly who makes Purolator and Purolator Pure One filters.

Yes, Champion Labs filters are well-regarded no matter what brand. However, in following the oil filters board on Edmunds I seem to remember that not all STP filters are actually Champion Labs. Or maybe I'm thinking of AC Delco, not STP. It's late (1:11am) and I can't remember for sure.

The longer Pure One filter should still fit just fine. It will be closer to the metal bar that's below the bottom of the filter, but there should still be a couple inches clearance. Because the filter is positioned directly above this metal bar thingamajig, it seems there would be no risk of it getting hit by stuff passing under the vehicle.

grandtotal

A couple of thoughts. Why not try the plastic bag you intend to use to catch your oil in your kitchen sink with hot water before using it to catch any oil that escapes your filter. My guess is that it will be fine. (All the usual disclaimers about taking care not to burn yourself apply here) Secondly, does having the van tilted front to rear by having it's front wheels on ramps affect the amount of oil you are able to drain from the engine to a significant degree? If so do you think it allows you to drain more of the old oil or less?

wberndt

Thank you for the carpoint link on ABS brakes. Everything I've read says it's a toss up as to weather ABS is warranted. Better stops in some situations but not as good in others. Does anyone know if the Sedona ABS is all 4 wheels? The carpoint info indicates that many vans have only front wheel ABS with conventional drums at the back.

One more point - having driven cars both with and without ABS, I've found that the ABS, which can "pulse" the brakes up to 18 times a second, can send that pulse feeling up through the brake pedal to your foot. In many vehicles this is not noticable until the brake bads wear a bit but then becomes annoying as you start to feel that "pulse" everytime you step on the brakes.

wberndt

Thanks to all the posts about tire pressure, I checked mine and found the right side to be at 45 lbs and the left at about 40. This is after I reminded the salesman to have the set-up people check the tire pressure. I urge everyone who hasn't done this to check theirs as soon as possible. You can't tell by looking at the tires and over inflation doesn't necessarily make the ride feel harsh enough that you will feel it.

hoyahenry

Does anyone know if the Sedona ABS is all 4 wheels? The carpoint info indicates that many vans have only front wheel ABS with conventional drums at the back.

The Sedona is 4-wheel. The type of brake (drum or disc) is irrelevant. Unbalanced vehicles, like pickups are most likely to have REAR-only ABS because those tires are likely to lock up much sooner in wet and other low traction conditions. I really can't understand how the cost can be that much less that they don't bother with all four wheels, but anyway.

...as you start to feel that "pulse" everytime you step on the brakes.

This is most likely warped rotors and not the ABS. The ABS only activates when the sensors determine that the wheel is not turning but the vehicle is still moving. I can only imagine that the very worst drivers activate the ABS on a daily basis, so it is just too unlikely that the pulse is the ABS.

jhan759

Just back from a week in sunny FLA. Trip was from Sterling VA, to Disney, to Bradenton and back to VA. Total trip mileage 2046 (which brings us up to 3887 total miles), averaged between 20 and 22 mpg. Ran it pretty hard, doing between 75-80 for long stretches with the AC on, loaded with kids and luggage, in rear and on roof (no kids on roof). AC worked great, kept everyone (front and back) very comfortable. Only saw 2 other Sedonas the whole trip, one in Disney and on on 95. Where was everyone???
Since my wife usually drives the Sedona during the week, so this was a real treat for me, I think I let her drive about 150 miles or so. I'm 6'2" and had no problem with headroom (yes we have a sun roof), pedals, ok, maybe once or twice (although I used the cruise control a lot ), or any visibility. We've been driving back and forth to Florida for a number of years and I have to say this was one of the easiest and most enjoyable drives. The Sedona handles great and the stereo is fantastic! The only thing I really miss from our old Windstar is the distance between fill ups and slightly better gas mileage. Really liked the readout giving time of trip and DTE. Also liked the dual trip odometers.
Got our mail when we returned today and received our letter from KIA re. the airbags. Just glanced at a few posts and it sounds as if they will address that for all of us. Luckily I didn't "bump" into Mickey or Goofey while in FLA.
I do have one issue that I'd like to get any comments from the group. Has anyone had a problem with their Sedona Idling VERY HIGH (around 2500 rmps) after cruising? This happened a number of times on this trip. When coming off the highway the car revs very high. I knocked it down by putting it in neutral and tapping the gas a couple of times. I'll definatley have it looked at when it goes in for an oil change this week. Just wondering if anyone had a similar problem?

bluedevils

jhan759, I have not experienced with our Sedona what you are describing:
"Has anyone had a problem with their Sedona Idling VERY HIGH (around 2500 rmps) after cruising? This happened a number of times on this trip. When coming off the highway the car revs very high."

Sounds a little unusual, but not necessarily an urgent problem.

bluedevils

grandtotal, good idea about trying the plastic bag with hot water first.

It seems I've heard that ramps can keep a little more of the oil from draining out, but this probably depends on each vehicle and the specific layout of the engine. My guess is you'll get the most oil out if the vehicle is level. I can't imagine actually getting more oil out with the vehicle on an angle. Since I don't really know what I'm talking about here, I won't elaborate!

By the way, I drained approximately 4 3/16 quarts (4 full qts. plus about 6 more fl oz.) when I changed the oil this weekend. This is only about 5/16 qt. less than the stated capacity (4.5 qts), so most of the old oil did drain out. I left the drain plug off for about 30 minutes while the oil trickled out.

bluedevils

The other day I thought the light above one of the 2nd row seats dimmed when I clicked it. For a couple weeks, I couldn't figure out how or why this happened.

Maybe you folks have already figured this out, but it seems the lights have a high and low setting when a door is open, but they have only one setting (not sure yet if it corresponds with the high or low setting) when all the doors are closed.

From what I remember, this information is not explained in the owners manual.

mobilmac

plug and the oil is hot, you can get a little more out, but you have to keep in mind that their is always some residual oil in the engine that that never comes out and gets diluted with the fresh oil, example; oil passages, top portions of engine where their are flat areas to puddle, and of course the kia oil cooler holds some. By the way, you sound like a conscientious guy, when it comes to your maintenance. I haven't checked my drain plug yet, to see if it has a magnet on it. You might consider replacing yours with a magnetic oil plug, which are easily available at the part stores, it most important to have it in place when its new in order to catch the metal particles that are most prevalent during break in.
I appreciated your info on the oil, i will have some more to add later.

mobilmac

cut down on premature wear on your engine, now and later, very inexpensive, 5 to 10 dollars.

mobilmac

I reinerate that you check your oil level, my wife put almost 500 miles on her sedona before it dawned on me, after checking the tire pressure and it was around 50 psi, i started checking other things like the oil level 1/2 quart low. I also notice that morning when the temp outside was in the 20s, that it made that knocking noise in the engine, when i initially started it, thats associated with low oil, or oil that the viscosity(thickness) was to heavy for the temp. And the idle eventually became unstable until i added the 1/2 quart. So check behind the prep folks. Jhan we have had the high idle problem surface a couple of times and then went away. I'm saving all
my troubles for one appointment for service.

bb8

The simple explanation of the dome light controls of the Kia Sedona owner's manual made me confused too, it works like this:

Case 1:
If the rear dome lights master control switch located on the center console is "on" (push in), if the door is open, all the rear dome lights are on with the dimmed element, if the rear dome light switch is "on", the bright and the dimmed elements inside the light are on.
Case 2:
If the rear dome lights master control switch located on the center console is "on" (push in), if the door is closed, all the rear dome lights are slowly dimming off, if the rear dome light switch is "on", the bright element inside the light is on. If the rear dome light switch is "off", it turns off at once.
Case 3:
If the rear dome lights master control switch located on the center console is "off" (normal position), all the rear dome lights are off, door status has no effect.

It may be more confused after you go through all the cases....

bluedevils

mobilmac, that makes sense about the drain plug location and the angle of tilt when the vehicle is raised. The drain plug, as on most vehicles I've seen, is toward the back of the reservoir, i.e. it points toward the rear of the vehicle. This would support the idea that you might get more oil out when the front wheels are raised and rear wheels are on the ground, vs. a situation at the quick lube place where the vehicle is level on the ground.

I forgot to mention that our oil level was 3/8-1/2 quart low at time of change (1,876 miles on vehicle). I'm pretty sure I checked the level a couple times shortly after we bought the van, and it was right around the full mark. This amount of consumption does not alarm me.

Your point about some of the old oil never coming out is a good reminder.

Since I drained about 4.2 quarts and the level was about 3/8-1/2 qt low, I'd say that almost all of the old oil did drain out for me.

jcrider2

Last week I attended a New Car Clinic at our local Kia - Oldsmobile dealer put on to explain the services provided by the dealer. It was very informative covering warrentys, how and what they do when you bring your vehicle in for service. A demo on a dent removal process which won't require repainting. The most impressive demo was the AirBag demo when they set off an airbag. That thing inflated and deflated in the blink of an eye. We were provided a meal and each new owner recieved a door prize and a certificate for a free oil change. Hart Olds - Kia Salem Va. is one of the top rated dealers in Virginia and their service department is the most frendly I've found. Their service rep. showed me how to get the interior lights to operate properly since the owners manual dosen't explain it very well. I have 8600 miles on my Sedona EX and every thing is going well with it. Two 2500 mile trips to Florida so far.

jlngwr

Has anyone noticed a low pitched whine while the engine is idling? No vibrations are detectable. As you accelerate, the whine raises in pitch and becomes less noticeable because of engine noise. When decelerating, the pitch lowers again. It's been going on for a while, doesn't seem to impede driving performance in any way. I can't remember when it started, but fairly sure it wasn't there when new since I remarked on how quiet the car was. Any info is appreciated.

jcrider2 - wonderful of your dealer to do that demo. Do you think the rest of us can get our dealers to do the same?

bluedevils

After significant experimenting, I think I understand how the 4 rear reading lights operate and the rules for operation based on whether a door is open.

Can you take a stab at explaining it, so we can confirm if the theories I submitted a few posts back are valid?

bob57

Check the alternator for the whine. My Sienna did this for a while (I think other Sienna owners posted this too) and discovered it was the alternator. It really wasn't a problem - mine eventually went away - or at least I haven't noticed it.

marklj

FYI... If you change the oil you'll need to replace the drain plug gasket. I didn't and it had a constant drip, not a bad leak but enough to see a 2-inch spot on the garage floor after parking overnight. I got a half dozen for free at the local Kia dealer.

Also, I rotated the tires and be extra careful with the center caps. They are plastic with a circular metal spring. On two of them the spring came loose and had to be carefully fitted back in place. Be sure to line up the tab in the center cap with the slot in the wheel and put them back on BY HAND ONLY otherwise you will probably break them. I will be taking them off before I have any shop do any service to the wheels like balancing or tire replacement. And this is only on the factory aluminum wheels.

bluedevils

Good info.

Replacing the drain plug gasket is a good standard practice, but I doubt it's totally "necessary." In your case it did turn out to be necessary!

I changed the oil in our Sedona over the weekend and did not change the drain plug gasket. I haven't noticed any drippage yet but I'll take a closer look at the garage floor tonight.

On our 98 Isuzu Trooper, I do change the drain plug gasket every time-- my dealer parts guy recommended them, and they're pretty cheap. Plus they sent me 10 the last time I asked for one, so I still have a few.

When you say "gasket" do you mean the round washer that sits between the drain plug and the reservoir?

mfbono2

hey tinman.. thanks for the info. I ordered one today from autotoys.com (there's a link in the aftermarket accessories board ) I almost plowed into a car backing out of my driveway the other night. One question.. you stated that you mounted it "under the bumper", in what direction are the sensors pointed ? In reading the install info on the poron website it says to make sure you're not pointing the sensors to the ground.. just curious.
.. jlngwr - that "low pitched whine" sounds like my wife... ;>) ... just kiddin.

excelent3

Interesting study which may/may not validate your perspective. Make sure to scroll to the top to get the whole story.

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#purolator

bb8

Nothing against the Purolator, but why don't your folks use the Original Kia Sedona filter? what's the pros and cons of Kia filter vs Purolator filter?

apx4

Just purchased a LX Sedona w/roof rack, cd, and ABS. Paid 19,800 for it, MSRP was 20,555. I think I got hosed on the price. So far we don't have any complaints except the car seat fiasco. We have twins. I just cut an 1/8th of an inch notch in the male end to allow it to go past the plastic rivet on the belt itself. This solution does not hurt the integrity of the seat belt. If I messed with the plastic rivet it would compromise the belt. The operation of the seek feature on the radio is also a bit of a pain to use.
thanks for all the info, went out and bought a tire gauge to test it out in the morning.

bluedevils

The filter I removed when changing my oil recently and said "Hyundai" on it. I have no problems using the Hyundai/Kia brand filter, except that I don't know what kind of filter it is-- who makes it, etc.

So if I'm spending 5 bucks on a filter, I will buy one whose reputation is well-known, such as Purolator's Pure One line, rather than an unknown Kia/Hyundai brand.

My hope is we can figure out what kind of filter the Kia/Hyundai is, verify it's a good filter, and then I can buy my oil filters from my dealer.

jcrider2

In my case when I got the Sedona the front dash switch was out. It was daylight so didn't pay much attention to the interior lighting. The lights were all out and would not come on when a door was opened. Push the front dash switch in and all the lights would come on with the doors opened or closed. I ask the Service rep about it when I went for my first oil change. He said lets get in the van and said push in the front switch. All the lights came on, then he turned them all off by pressing on the lens. Then when I opened a door they all came on. Closing the door they all dimmed and went out. Last night I was checking them agin and noticed that when a door is open, lights are on and if you press a reading light lens the light gets brighter, so there must be a double element bulb.

At my dealer which is a Olds - Kia dealer they use GM Goodwrench oil which is made by Mobil. Oil change is $ 21.95 and they also throw in a free car wash.

I think too that a wineing noise in the engine compartment is comming from the alternator. I had an Olds, that did it and that was the source. Doesn't seem to hurt as it went over 150,000 mile without failing.

marklj

Bluedevils,

You asked...

When you say "gasket" do you mean the round washer that sits between the drain plug and the reservoir?

Yes. It is a Kia P/N 21513 21000. "GASKET-OIL PLUG"

http://www.kiausaparts.com/catalog/form_main.asp?section=1040&uid=81944

bb8

I happened to run across the pricing of the Sedona Air-filter, my God! the price is $49.20 for a air-cleaner element(Air Filter). How could it be?

bluedevils

I hope that's not right. In looking at the Kia Parts site, it seems a little goofy. I searched for a few certain items, and typically instead of one particular item (e.g. hood deflector), there are sometimes multiple items listed. The site seems to price some parts separately, even though the customer is likely to order several of them as part of a single "component."

I hope the $49 air filter was for some other part (perhaps the housing that the air filter sits in or something like that) and not the actual air filter. If it really is a $49 air filter, it looks like Kia won't be getting my air filter business!

bluedevils

Our Sedona was delivered with a narrow 6-8" horizontal strip of sticky foam stuff on the lower left part of the rear hatch. The stuff is foam or something, with a sticky backing that doesn't want to come off very easily.

I haven't needed to return to the dealer yet, but I'm wondering if they are likely to be careful enough to remove it without damage. Not sure if I'd be better off removing it myself. Any thoughts? Anybody else have a similar situation upon delivery of their new Sedona?

stever

Sure that's not an "in-cabin" air filter? The suckers retail for over $60 for my Quest (never felt flush enough to get a new one).

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

3carseats1

Hello All,
As you can tell by our name, we have 3 kids in carseats! We've been looking around for a minivan for awhile and we're pretty close to settling on a Sedona. We have been reading the message board for a month now and we really enjoy the insight that everyone has about the Sedona. Along with others, we have concerns about the recent 5 mph test with the airbag. Hopefully Kia will fix this before we buy one during the Summer.

While reading the message board, I noticed people talking about an "FOB". What is this?

We look forward to many discussions about our Sedona with y'all!

excelent3

I believe if you read the entire article/study that I posted previously,and if I recall correctly, it states that a filter made by Wix has a "W" stamped in the base of the filter off to the side of the center threads. I don't have an oil filter handy, maybe someone could take a look. If in fact there is a "W" stamped into the base, I believe it is manufactured by Wix. In my opinion Wix makes a very good filter. The Purolator One is also a very good filter, and would be my choice for the price, along with the Kia filter.

vanphan

I've been anxious to post some questions / comments but I just got done reading all the very informative posts. We took delivery of our Misty Blue / Platinum EX (all options except spoiler) four weeks ago today. There are two Kia dealerships in our area. The first I visited wouldn't budge off of sticker and even softly laughed when I asked if they were dealing. He promptly saw the door open with me going through it. The second dealer was more willing to make my day. We ended up getting $1530 off MSRP. Plus, 12 free oil changes over the next three years. Funny thing about the transaction: the second dealer bought the Sedona from the first dealer, then sold it to us! (They did not have the color combination we wanted). I wish I'd have come across this Town Hall before purchasing but I think I did okay. Overall, no real problems yet. 870 miles on the odometer. We live in the Midwest. Just a few questions / thoughts:

1) I'm feeling / hearing wheel travel (thumping sound) over nearly all bumps from the front end (w/ 35 psi in all four tires). I'm hoping it will smooth out with more weight in the van. I've read one or more of you have this same thing.

2) There is considerable wind noise at 50+ (w/ moonroof closed, no deflector)

3) The timing belt is to be changed every 60k. My salesman said the first one is covered under warranty. I need to verify this with the SM.

4) Does the rear spoiler help to keep road dust off the rear window / hatch?

5) I have the Kumho tires. Some posts say they are good, some not so good. How do they perform in the snow?

6) We have the third seat factory carpeted floor mat (mfd. date Jan. 17, 02) but does not extend in cargo area.

7) Can't program the Homelink and my Sears rolling code opener. I noticed mikeymike01 had this same problem in post #342.

8) We used a "Mighty Tite" with a car seat in our last car (Pontiac). It worked great but it ruined the ratchet action in the seat belt.

This is getting long but I'm almost done, for now.....

Suggestions to Kia:
a) Put a holder for gas cap on gas filler door
b) In overhead computer, use Current MPG & Ave. MPG instead of ave. speed

Suggestions or thoughts to other owners:
a) Wire around antenna is to reduce wind noise.
b) Slot above the coin holder left of steering wheel can hold a credit card temporarily (just don't leave the van without it!) Dollar bills may get stuck.
c) Remove and replace spare tire before you really need it. There is undercoating all over the steel cradle. You may want to wipe this clean before you may have to change a tire in good clothes.
d) 2" convex spot mirrors on the outside mirrors help visibility.
e) Slow wipers? Try RAIN-X and leave your wipers off. I've used this stuff for many years and I swear by it. I leave my wipers off in a downpour at 30 mph plus and the water beads right off. The faster you go, the better.

bluedevils

Excellent post.

Feedback:

"The timing belt is to be changed every 60k. My salesman said the first one is covered under warranty."

That seems highly doubtful. A few luxury brands include free routine maintenance (oil changes, tire rotations, perhaps things such as coolant changes, etc.), but Kia does not do this. Your salesman was either totally lying about that knowing full well that it's not true, or he was somehow misinformed and actually believes it to be true (I don't see how). I may ask my dealer about this and see what they say.

"Slot above the coin holder left of steering wheel can hold a credit card temporarily (just don't leave the van without it!) Dollar bills may get stuck."

I leave my grocery store frequent shopper card in that handy slot.

Good advice on the spare tire. I've been meaning to remove it in the garage to get familiar.

Mighty Tite - We have been using these for a few months now. Some posts here in the past couple weeks have alerted me to potential risks of using Mighty Tite. I think one thing that might help is to make sure it's not super-tight, just "tight enough." I plan to buy one of these LATCH straps that some friends of ours recently used in our Sedona. It worked great.

3rd row floor mat - I need to ask my dealer about this. If nobody was getting one, that would be one thing. But some folks are, and some aren't (including me), and that makes no sense.

mikeymike01

Nice post, vanphan. I agree with bluedevils that if some folks are getting a 3rd row floor mat then we all should. I am going to e-mail Kia about this and will get back to everyone.

Your question: 7) Can't program the Homelink and my Sears rolling code opener. I noticed mikeymike01 had this same problem in post #342.

I finally figured it out by calling the Homelink 800 number. Since my Sears Craftsman garage door has the enhanced security codes (changing codes) and I assume you have a similar model, you need to press the red button located on the opener itself when doing the programming. If you still have problems I suggest you call the 800 number with a cordless phone and have your ladder to your opener ready and also have your Sedona nearby.

Good luck!

jondot

Regarding post 1442 by excelent3:

Just happened to have one I purchased at the dealer. It's a Kia P/No 2630035500. There is a "W" stamped on the bottom.

jondot

Good post vanphan. Regarding gas cap, mine is tethered, no need for a holder..I am confused regarding the replacement period for the timing belt. There was a post earlier by the host, I believe, which said Edmund's maintenance guide recommends change at either 90k or 105k miles, I forget which. I looked for the post but couldn't find it again. Did I miss a update on that subject?

yolo

My Genie rolling code is probably similar to the Sears. I had to remove the plastic cover to access the button to push for programming. Clear the Homelink per your manual and then push the button on your garage door opener (the opener itself and not the remote that came with it) and within 30 seconds, push the button you want to program on your homelink. A good tip is to push it and hold it for a few seconds. This is how you program the remotes that came with the opener too.

stever

Here's the info I got from our data guys about the timing belt interval:

steve_ Mar 25, 2002 6:13pm

(There are some other posts before and after about it too).

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

jondot

Thanks Steve; now you folks are in alignment with the manual. I sure don't understand how they can allow the longer interval for California!
Makes no sense especially if you consider the risk of a broken belt!!

bluedevils

"Thanks Steve; now you folks are in alignment with the manual. I sure don't understand how they can allow the longer interval for California!
Makes no sense especially if you consider the risk of a broken belt!!"

I look at this the other way around: why is it necessary for non-California owners to change their timing belt sooner? The short answer is, it probably isn't! The timing belt change is precautionary; typically upon replacement, the belt looks fine and likely would have gone much further without problem. But the catch is, ya never know.

bluedevils

The tether on the gas cap will keep it from falling off or getting lost, but it won't keep the gas cap from touching the side of the vehicle. I don't like the idea of gas touching the paint, or of the gas cap banging against the vehicle and possibly scratching it up.

Our '98 Isuzu Trooper has both a tether and a gas cap holder. The holder is a nice touch, but I haven't seen many vehicles with it.

vanphan

Exactly my point, bluedevils. My Grand Cherokee also has both a tether and a holder on the door. You'd think there would be an aftermarket holder one could attach to the door with double sided tape. You'd just have to make sure it would clear with the door closed. If anyone comes across such a thing, let me know. Thanks.

mikeymike01

From Kia's customer service:

-----Original Message-----
To: ca@kia.com
Subject: Sedona Floor Mats

Hello. I purchased a 2002 Kia Sedona EX with all options in December 2001.

Our Sedona did not come with 3rd row floor mats. I have spoke to other Sedona buyers who have received the 3rd row floor mats. My dealer said these 3rd row mats are not included with the minivan.

Can you please clarify if the Sedona EX and LX models should get the 3rd row floor mats as standard equipment?

Thank you.

----- Replied Message -----
From: Stapleton, Paul
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: Sedona Floor Mats

Thank you for your correspondence. Any customer who purchased the vehicle prior to February 2002 will not get a third row mat. The third row mat was just introduced to the public in February of 2002. You may speak with your selling dealership regarding purchasing the mat.

Thank you
Kia Motors America

mikeymike01

My Sedona EX manual (page 7-4) states the Engine Timing Belt is to be replaced as part of NORMAL MAINTENANCE (Schedule 1 in the manual) at 60,000 miles or 96,000 kilometers.

This is for normal maintenance and not the severe maintenance schedule. This is different than what's been stated in recent posts. Am I misinterpreting the manual?

Thanks.

yolo

I bought on Feb 14th and mine still didn't have the 3rd row mat. I will send Kia an e-mail and see what they say. Kia should send everyone a mat that bought before Feb. It just doesn't make sense that some of the same model year get them and some don't. Maybe they were not ready to ship with earlier Sedonas but that doesn't justify Kia leaving the earlier buyers stranded with no 3rd row mat no matter what the circumstance is/was. Kia needs to step up, imo. I have an EX with all 6 options and I feel cheated for not getting the 3rd row mat. Anyone else pissed at this response like I am?

mcperr

1. Thumping Front Tires: Our Hankooks do the same thing over expansion joints and highway cracks. I assume that it is just due to stiff sidewalls and not-too-expensive standard tires. Really smoothens out with a bit more weight in the van.
2. Wind Noise: You should perhaps get this checked out by you dealer. Our EX with sunroof is extremely quiet at highway speeds. Someone mentioned a while back that the position of the front roof rack cross member can cause wind noise that is heard throught the sunroof. Try moving it back a bit.
3. Timing Belt R&R at 60k: this appears to be the standard period for engines with belt-driven cam shafts whether or not the belt is worn. Not all engines will self-destruct if the timing belt breaks. Need to check with a Kia mechanic.
4. Third-Row Mats: We purchased our EX in August of last year and received all the mats. But then, Canadians do not get the first-aid kit.

mcperr

Just bought the printed version of the Sedona review in the April Car & Driver issue. All Sedona owners and prospective purchasers should buy the magazine just to get the picture of the underside of the van in the article. This is one tough van. All suspension and structural components are heavier guage or stronger steel than other vans. Note the solid steel braces from the frame rails to the front suspension subframe. No wonder the van is extremely rigid.