Kia Sedona (2005 and Earlier)

riders

Any idea how to get a vinyl dealer sticker off of my van without messing up the paint underneath? I'm leary of pulling the sticker off and using a solvent to remove the glue for fear that the clearcoat/paint will be affected. My dealer placed the sticker on my van, but put it on crooked. Kind of picky, I know, but it just seems to bother me everytime I look at it.

stever

You're not alone - lots of tips in the Badge/emblem removal techniques discussion.



Steve

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amyshubby

Kind of dead in here today.

hoyahenry

I am curious to know if you had any thoughts on, reaction to, or interest in the oil analysis post I made a few weeks ago?

No big deal, just thought it would have been of interest to you.

chrisbgood

I would never have thought to do an oil analysis -- seems like way, way to much detail for the average car owner.

I have two cars now (Dodge Caravan and Kia Sedona) and we do ~24,000 a year on the primary vehicle (was the Dodge for three years, now the Kia). We do regular oil changes. We do regular maintenance (balanced -- what the manufacturer recommends but not way overboard either). Why would I want/need an oil analysis? Not sure what it would tell me/how much it would cost/if it is worth it at all.

Perhaps if I went synthetic and longer oil change intervals?

hoyahenry

I do my own oil changes. So the cost of an oil change and an oil analysis is still less than a trip to quicky lube - and I feel better about the workmanship

Actually, this is the first one I've ever done on any car- a curiousity that developed in the maint forums, and was no doubt influenced by earning my private pilot license earlier this year. The engine, and how it is running and wearing, is a bit more critical in the flight environment.

There was also quite a bit of discussion in the early days of this forum on the engine manufacturer, design, strength, reliability, and on and on.

No, the average car owner probably doesn't need it done, but it can provide useful information about impending problems with seals and excessive wear that leads to catastrophic failure. The early detection of something amiss _may_ reduce the repair expense if a problem is detected early enough. ymmv

excelent3

Talked at my dealer today in La Crosse, Wi and the manager told me they are expecting the first of the 03's around mid October, due to the 3 week strike in Korea. Some minor changes he would not specify. Pricing will be slightly higher. The new Sorrento will also be out at about $7k less than comparable SUV's. It will be available in rear wheel, four wheel, or all-wheel drive versions. It will be interesting to see. Should be a hit based on price and warranty. The Sportage has been popular. The Sorrento will have the same motor and bullet proof transmission as the Sedona with a 3500lb towing capacity as was told to me. EX3

amyshubby

Looks like Kia is extending the 1k rebate, but they raised the finance offer to 3.9%.

xaf

bill124

Currently I am gettting the 15 miles to a gallon in town, it hasn't varied very much from this amount.

On the highway I get 22 to 26 miles per gallon, depending on traffic, the cruise control really improves the mileage on the highway. All of the long trips so far have been with 5+ people and fully loaded with luggage, coolers, strollers,...

So far this van has been much better in general than the GC I traded in to get the Sedona.

bill124

Thanks very much. That's ashame on the local mileage. Is there anything to attribute it to? I know in the case of the 2000-2001 MPV it's the high rev engine. Does better than the GC mean you are satisfied? Also, what did you pay and when?

bluedevils

hoyahenry, you're right that the oil analysis results are of interest to me. I guess I got a bit lazy and didn't pay much attention. What post was it?

I'm not convinced that the cost of analysis is justified. I suppose if it really did allow you to avoid certain repairs or problems, that would clearly justify the cost of the oil analysis. But that would be a tough argument to make, since it's probably pretty unlikely that you'd end up making such a pre-emptive discovery.

The other main benefit of analysis is the ability to increase oil change intervals due to increased knowledge about how well the oil is holding up. I prefer peace of mind associated with 3,000 mile oil and filter changes, so there's just not a whole lot of benefit TO ME in knowing how long I could extend the change interval.

hoyahenry

Like I said, just curious. The same applies to the analysis. I'll do it at the next oil change to see how things improve...out of curiousity. After that, I'll probably do one every once in a fanciful while.

bluedevils

hoya, I just re-read your analysis post #2186 a little more closely. The first column was 'typical wear levels' (for this specific engine, or just an all-vehicles average?), and the second column was wear levels from the sample oil in your Sedona?

According to folks who know about this analysis stuff, I think you really need to keep doing the analysis, and see the trends that develop, in order to reap the benefit.

It's good to hear that the oil indicated better-than-average (read: "less") engine wear.

From what I can tell, our Sedona does not burn/consume any oil. Not sure if that's relevant to the discussion on analysis, though.

hoyahenry

I think you have the columns reversed. Reading left to right, it goes:

Metal Sedona Average

My understanding is that the average provided by the lab is an overall average for motor oil that has been subjected to 3500 mi of use.

I think I've gotten a benefit already knowing that the engine is exhibiting normal wear at a relatively young age when it could still be in a break-in phase.

grandtotal

From what I can tell, our Sedona does not burn/consume any oil.

I too am used to engines which do not burn any oil between changes. Now obviously I know that my engines do burn some oil, it's intentional, and yet the level does not drop between changes. Why is that? Is it that the oil collects contaminants at roughly the same rate as oil is burnt? Or is it that the amount actually burnt by a modern engine is so small that the effect on oil level is virtually negligible?

xaf

The in town mileage is probably due to the weight of the van, little bit heavier than the competition.

The only thing I miss from my GC is the souped up stereo system, but I don't get many chances to listen to Pink Floyd with the kids in the van. I bought my van in Canada, where I am currently living, It worked out to about $20,000 US including taxes,... for the fully loaded EX (sunroof, leather,...) I didn't have much time to negotiate the price, as the GC I traded in was preparing to wheeze and stop working.

I've had the Sedona for 4 months, and almost 4,000 miles. My only complaint is that my favorite driving sunglasses don't fit in the holder provided. My latest discovery was a little slot on the drivers side, perfect for putting the security card that I only need when I drive through the gate at work.

The Town Hall discussions helped me choose the Sedona, and have helped to figure out some of the tricks that are needed to remove and replace the seats in the van (without resorting to swearing).

Hope this info helps

bbailey9999

Could someone please direct me to previous posts regarding problems removing rear bench seats. Over the weekend, could not get the driver side seat to release when pulling strap. Passenger side worked fine. Our sedona is four & a half months old and I have removed the affected seat once or twice before without problem. Dealer is about an hour away so I'd like to avoid a warrenty trip if possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

xaf

I couldn't find the post that helped me fine tune the removing and replacing of seats, But I do remember that a seat that stuck on me was not properly in place when I tried to remove it.

I find it easiest to remove the head rest and fold the seat before removing it. Replacing it I usually open up the seat, and it slides in easily.

Someone else posted a more through explanation, keep looking.

klambert

Hi. Was reading "hoyahenry"s posts about oil issues, and wondered if any other Sedona owner has had a problem with a leaky oil pan? I took mine in to Jiffy Lube for a 3,500 mile oil change, and the tech told me I had oil collecting around the pan (it wasn't leaking onto pavement or anything). Took van to dealer and they had it six days! Replaced seal around pan. Now it's time for another oil change -- we'll see what happens. Also, I, too, have the problem with acceleration hesitation after van has been sitting awhile and the A/C is on. Took to dealer and they adjusted the "computer." Seemed OK for a bit, but now doing it again. This could become a safety issue when you're pulling out into traffic and your vehicle doesn't want to move! Hope I didn't buy a "lemon," 'cause it sounds like everyone else is not having problems with their Sedona. I, too, got rid of a '96 Caravan with 60K-plus miles (and lots of problems) for the Sedona, thinking Kia's really trying to improve quality, and for the great warranty and financing. I love the van other than these two problems encountered (and I only have 9,000 miles on it)! Thanks for any input.

hoyahenry

Took to dealer and they adjusted the "computer."

You need to make sure that they flashed (as in installed new software) the power control module. This only addresses a problem when the engine is dead cold. I can't tell by your reference to A/C, but if the problem re-occurs depending on the length of the traffic light or stoppage, you might have a bad PCM or some other problem altogether. :< (I think someone did have a PCM that went bad.)

Hopefully, the new seal around the oil pan will have seated properly and that issue will be gone.

My experience on repair duration for a warranty item (actually 2) was similar, but they were searching for an electrical glitch, so I can be a bit more understanding - they took their time and did it right. Subsequently, they found out that the module that controls those system had gone bad (I suspect it overheated). That discovery also extended the repair time, but still better than having to go through the hassle of mutliple visits.

klambert

hoyahenry -- I'll probably be calling the dealer again, and will ask them about "flashing the PCM." Once the vehicle gets going and warms up, the hesitation goes away. It seems to happen at the first start of the day, or after it's been sitting in the parking lot at work all day, so the engine is cold. I do leave the A/C on when I shut the engine off, so it is on when I start up, as is the radio and sometimes the headlights. Should I be turning all these accessories off each time I turn the vehicle off? I hope it's not a bad PCM -- that's what caused me to trade in my Caravan -- they said I needed a new body control module, at $600, to correct strange electrical problems. As far as the oil pan situation, I think they did get it seated right (after calling the KIA hotline and finding out it had to sit for 24 hrs. before starting it up), but the reasons for the six-day stay also included a bolt that broke off somewhere, causing them to have to reassmble what they'd already disassembled, plus the mechanic bumped his head on the vehicle on the last day and had to be rushed to the ER. What a circus! Needless to say, I'm now taking the van back to the wonderful dealer I bought it from (about a 45-min. drive) instead of the one that's only 15 min. from my house. Think it's OK to have oil changed by a quickie place? I go to Jiffy Lube. They're the ones that noticed the leak.

hoyahenry

You can get the TSB number from alldata.com that describes the hesitation problem. The problem described in your previous post is exactly the same as the symptoms I had.

Now, I've only got ~5900 miles on mine. I'd be curious to know how many miles on your van since the PCM was supposedly adjusted last.

As for accessories, headlights I leave on auto, mostly, and radio I typically leave on. I try to avoid leaving the A/C on. I believe, subject to discussion, that leaving the A/C on places an extra load on the starter and engine during the cranking phase.

I do my own oil changes....

klambert

It's been 7 weeks today since I had the thing adjusted; mileage change is probably about 2,000 -- we put on around 1,400 on vacation last month. Thanks for the info on the TSBs. I'll check it out.

hoyahenry

on the PCM flash. It's been 2 months and 2000 miles exactly. I'll keep an eye on the hesitation, but so far have not noticed anything similar.

stever

Sedona Earns Strategic Vision Award



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excelent3

Word is getting out. No Sedonas for sale here in the upper midwest until '03's arrive. I am very pleased with my EX. One major coplaint though I have is the nominal scratch resistant quality of the plastic used at the tailgate and througout the interior, it mars so easily. Any harder object will scratch/score this plastic. My tailgate area looks like a 10 year old vehicle already, just from the minimal cargo I have hauled. That's my biggest gripe...it really devalues the van for resale. On the other hand I love the solid road feel this van offers and the power. My tires won't make it to 40K, sometimes it hard NOT to have a little fun... the van screams! EX3

banddexpress

We just got a dealership in the Topeka Ks. area so I went to test drive I actually felt like it did better then any of the other vans I tested. The honda had more room inside but I can get an ex for around 20 grand fully loaded the lx honda was going to cost 25k however I don't know about the basic warranty it seems like alot of stuff is only covered for the first 2 years 24k instead of hyundais bumper to bumper. Was wondering if you know if the 03 are going to have anything different.

minivanfrank

After looking at most of the alternatives I have definately decided to go with the Sedona. My dilemma - buy a 2002 or wait for the 2003. I can't seem to find out when the '03's are going to be out (my dealer said Jan 03 - that didn't seem right). I would also like to know what is going to be new for '03. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. I understand that the 1,000 rebate might not be offered for '03 but that remains to be seen.

excelent3

According to my dealer here in the Midwest who is a "stand alone" dealer meaning they sell nothing but Kia's. It is a franchise dealership, (of which Kia is pushing hard to establish more of), the new Sedonas are expected to be out in mid to late October. There was a 3 week strike in Korea which delayed the release. He also mentioned that the rebates will likely be discontinued, due to the high demand for the Sedona. Some slight tweeks/changes will be made, but that is not being disclosed. There will also be a "modest" price increase. With all the awards and accolades that the Sedona has recieved, it's no wonder the demand is so high, it increases the value of our vehicles also. EX3

minivanfrank

Thanks for that info - 4 to 6 week wait for the '03 isn't too bad - I just hope that the price increase isn't too great.

pete1222

Hi,

Does anyone know if the EX comes with Mich. tires
or the Korean tire found on the LX?
From what I've read it seems that the Korean tire is sub-par and tends to "whine".
Thanks,
Pete

hoyahenry

At least on mine. I know the tires are different on the LX. Both are of Korean origin, however.

There's no whine on the Hankook - they offer a great ride, as long as the pressures are adjusted from shipping spec (~45lbs to the 35lbs indicated on the door sticker).

bluedevils

I believe the specific model is RA07. The specs on the tire are actually pretty good - if I remember, the wear rating is 420, Traction rating is A and Temperature is B. Also, the tires are H speed-rated, which is generally an indicator of better performance than a standard S- or T-rated tire. Our Sedona has only 8,000 miles on it, so it's still too early to tell how long the tires are likely to last. No complaints here about the tires. Yes, I would have preferred Michelins, but you can't get everything top-of-the-line when paying a bargain basement price.

bluedevils

A couple months after we bought our Sedona, I dropped the right rear seat on the plastic strip along the bottom rear of the cargo area. On a recent service visit to the dealer (our first at 7 months and 7,500 miles of ownership) to have a few minor things corrected, the dealer didn't balk at replacing this under warranty. Understandably, they had to order the part so we need to make another appointment to have it installed.

You might try asking your dealer about it - e.g. 'This plastic is really wearing fast. I don't think it's acceptable. Is there anything you can do?' Who knows, they might have no problems replacing it under warranty.

pete1222

I agree bluedevil, its a great value regardless of the tires. We've heard (twice) a "thumping" sound (a bit like a helicopter) and thought it might be the Korean tires. We're heading out on vacation in the morning so we'll see if it happens again. Thanks...
Pete

excelent3

Thanks for the insight on possible plastic replacement. I guess its worth a try to inquire regarding warranty. My back end looks awful beat up already, excessive. This plastic seems awful soft, the slightest friction will deliver a scrape.

The EX's most often came with the RA07 Hankooks which I agree with Bluedevils is a good tire. The LX's generally seem to come with the Kumho's. But I have seen the Hankooks on the LX's also. I believe the Hankooks are a better tire, at least from what my research gathered before I purchased the Sedona. The Kumho's, as I recall were more slippery on wet surfaces. I now have almost 14K on my Sedona's Hankooks and I am already starting to question what I will replace them with, I mostly likely will not go with the Hankooks. The Sedona could use some help in the handling department, tend to lean and roll to much for my taste. I have been very impressed with the Yokahama touring tires. Also, I had a very good experience with Dayton Daytona's, which I recently put on my Toyota Previa, a great value for an H rated, performance tire at about $300 for a set of 4. Handling was vastly improved and the ride was softer, but yet very firm. They also had a very nice, noticeably wider "footprint" in the same size as the original tire, which one would think should offer better cornering and manueverablility. I have to say, my Previa would have run circles around the Sedona in the handling department, because of it's mid engine configuration, center of gravity was superior, and the weight of the vehicle was also a factor at 3700lbs, the Sedona is at 4709 lbs. EX3

jlngwr

I have an LX with Kumho tires - I must agree with ex3, they are more slippery on wet surfaces than I would like. Fast starts leave you spinning your tires. I haven't had to try a fast stop yet (no ABS). Hankooks are a good tire, we have them on our Geo Prizm after the awful Goodyears fell apart. I've also had the Yokohamas in the past and they are a great tire. Will definitely consider them when replacements on the Sedona are needed.

twotonesedona

I just received the survey in the mail from JD Power and Assoc. They didn't send any free oil change, not even a dollar. I think I will use their postage paid envelope to let them know that my time is valuable. Any other suggestions? I still love our 02 EX with 1000 miles on it

xaf

It's true, the people buying the Sedona are a little more frugal than average, regardless you must fill out the form. Otherwise all those fanatical Honda and Toyota owners will get all the awards again.

Just think of how happy you will be when your van is blessed with another award, and what all the hoopla does to the resale values.

Remember, this form is an investment in the future value of your van. and being cheap every penny counts.

stever

I fill out a 5 minute (non-auto) survey every other month. I get $10 to do so. Othewise, forget it!

Steve
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xaf

and here I thought you had an unbiased opinion.

stever

You got me ;-). I let my salesguy fill out my survey in exchange for a tank of gas too (he was pretty good though).

(hey, I'm not going to do their market research for them for free!).

Steve
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heckmanv

9/16/02 I have driven my 2002 Sedona 7,600 miles since February. Find the steering very stiff and my arms, shoulders are always tensed as I turn to right or left or even just correcting it slightly as I drive down the highway. I have read that some reviewer described it as "reluctant" steering. Does anyone else feel this? yesterday I went to the dealer and drove a different EX and the steering was freer. The salesman drove it and then my Sedona. He agreed. I have some arthritis and fibroymyalgia which is really aggravated by this effort required to steer and turn. But they could only start all over and resell me this car (without the 3 yr 0% financing I have now). Of couse, I can't afford to do that. And they depreciated it by $3,500 for this period of time and miles.

I do love it and my silver car gets lots of compliments. I am in process of checking to see if each of the two cars have the same tires. I believe I have the Hankok, but am going down to check now, after reading above comments.

heckmanv

Correction to posting #2344. I have the Kumho tires on my EX.

jondot

heckmanv,ever hear of the lemon law? That should be a fixable problem! If they can't fix it, you can get your money back with a moderate charge for the miles on the vehicle. Go get'em!!

deno1

I have a 2002 Sedona EX (loaded)which I bought in July 2002. I have put 6,500 miles on it since then. When I operate the van cold I hear a whining noise that seems to be in the transmission. I also note that when I shift into gear there is a hesitation prior to the wheels engaging. The same is true from reverse to drive and visa versa. Has anyone else noticed this? I also noted (and you can check this on your vans) that when I start out driving while the engine and transmission are cool my RPM's are at 2500 RPM while in cruise at 69 miles per hour. After the engine and transmission come up to temperature (usually after 3-5 miles) they will drop down to 2300 RPM. This is not being caused by the O/D not engaging, but, appears to be slippage in the transmission when cold. Has anyone else experienced any of these symptoms or is this normal behavior on this 5 speed transaxle? Overall I have been very pleased with this automobile and find the performance and ride to be exceptional evan when compared to more expensive vehicles. As a side note and to show you a real leap of faith I live in North Dakota where there are zero KIA dealers. My dealer is in Minnesota about 260 miles from where I live.

blueskiesabove

deno1

I hear you about taking a leap of faith when you bought your van and having the closest dealer 260 miles away. We are seriously considering buying a new Sorento and our nearest dealer is about 120 miles away. I'm not sure if we should as I have read some real horror stories about kia's past vehicles problems and could not imagine having to drive so far all the time to get it worked on. Especially when their are GM dealers on every other block.

Hmmmm

alexbeth

I am dealing on a Sedona EX with every option. According to Edmunds pricing, Invoice is $21,400. MSRP is $24,100. The salesman at the dealer tells me he "isn't sure" where Edmunds is getting their numbers because there is only $1,200 - $1,400 Markup on the vehicle "according to the invoices that he sees". Salesman is very nice and doesn't pressure us at all. Just don't know what to believe. The salesman or the Edmunds pricing. I want to be in a new van by month end and have narrowed my choices to the Sedona and MPV. MPV pricing is easy as my workplace has the X-Plan thru Ford and I can get the MPV for a few hundred under invoice. Any info on current pricing or what people have paid would be appreciated.

hoyahenry

I cannot say that I have noticed higher RPMs in highway cruise. I have noticed plenty of cars that run higher RPMs when cold versus warm. It's typically more noticeable when the vehicle is not in motion. I suspect the fuel/air mixture is adjusted for the cold engine operating temperature resulting in higher RPMs, not that there is a slippage in the transmission.

I would also say that there is a pause in the transmission selection process as you describe, but again, I haven't noticed that it is unusual compared to other vehicles I have driven.

I think the folks over on the transmission and maintenance boards would be able to shed some light on the exact mechanics/physics involved. I certainly do not hear a whirring noise in the transmission of our EX.

Which reminds me: We did travel on one county road in Michigan for a good ten miles where I thought we were going to have a problem. I had an unusual vibration in the accelerator pedal that made me greatly concerned -- turned out to be just that particular road. I think they paved it with more sand embedded in the tar for traction.

banddexpress

I was told the same thing. The dealer even had an invoice for me to look at and the prices didn't match.