Toyota Sequoia Accessories and Modifications
Installed backup sensor this weekend. Maybe this info will be useful.
First off, forget the 20 minute professional install listed in the documentation. This is for a trunk with easy access to the backup light wires. It will take 3 to 4 hours for a good install in a Sequoia.
1. Remove panels on lift gate. These are held on with pin in hole connectors only. Use panel tool, wooden stick or taped screwdriver to pry edge of panels. The large panel is also lipped over the window seal so it will have to be pushed up when the connectors are popped loose.
2. Remove black metal insert. This will give you access to the sheet metal just behind the license plate. There are about 8 hex screws and two electrical connectors. Then the panel will pop off of 3 push connectors.
3. Now the painfull part. I could not find an existing access hole that would not allow wire to show around lic plate. I had to drill (ouch) large enough hole for wires. I suggest painting metal edge, use rubber grommet and silicone seal outsid only to prevent leaks and prevent trapping moisture in grommet.
4. Route wires from sensor, through bracket and then through lic plate and frame. NOTE: I suggest using plate frame with wide bottom to mount sensor. Then route wires through grommet (use silicone at end of install).
5. Be careful routing wires through lift gate. You will have to add extensions for power wires, but not sensor speaker wires. The sensor spkr can be mounted inside door. It is still loud enough. Route the wires following OEM wire path. NOTE!!!! pay attention to path for window to follow. If you cross the path with your wires, your sensor will work only until you roll the back window down the first time!
6. Fish the wires through existing rubber grommet on side of gate. Then run the wires up the existing wire path to the rubber pass through between gate and vehicle. It is a good idea to take the time to fish the wire through this rubber pass through. You need a firm wire, etc to make both bends.
7. There are three side panels to remove/displace on the side of the vehicle. These are harder to remove/replace and may deter you from trying this project.
8. Remove top inside trim panel. To do this, remove ceiling light plate by prying. Remove the two screws under this plate. The top panel will then pop off.
9. Remove the left quarter panel interior trim by removing the bottom door trim screws and lifting bottom door trim.
10. The cargo net connectors are tricky. Hold them around the edges and pull. The star piece will split in half toward you and you will pull out the center locking pin. Then the whole connector will come out. I broke one figuring this out.
11. The rest of the quarter panel trim will pop out. You need to have rear seat removed. You will probably drop/lose a couple of the U'shaped connector clips. Be prepared to buy a couple of clips before reinstalling panels!
12. Then you have to remove the middle left trim. Flip the cap open on seatbelt holder and remove seatbelt holddown bolt. Do this at your own risk!!!!! You need to be sure this bolt is retorqued to specifications for safety reasons. If anything, this information should warn you about what is entailed in the install, please don't let it entice you to do the install. I don't want that on my conscience (Thanks).
13. The black trim connectors are removed by pushing the center circle inward and then the whole connector will fall out. There are 3 of these on this panel, I think.
14. You can now run the wires down the inside edge of the vehicle. All wire routes should be along existing wire paths and should be cable tied to existing wire bundles, taking care not to add tension to any connections.
15. Using 3M splice connectors. The kind that might come with sensor kit, or the kind I use which are clamshells connectors that clamp around the wire and clip together while displacing insulation and then forming a female 1/4" spade connection to the wire. You can then plug a shrouded male 1/4" connector into it.
16. The backup light wires should be the following, but verify in your car by looking at actual backup light.
12V backup signal = Red w/blk stripe prior to final connector and Red w/blue stripe after final connector.
Ground = White w/blk stripe
17. Make wire connections and test by putting trans in reverse. Sensor should give acknowledgement beeps
18. Make sure wire runs have enough slack, are cable tied, do not interfere with door closure or back window roll-down path.
19. Replace interior panels and make sure all connectors are intact and snap well.
20. Replace seatbelt anchor and make sure torque is set to spec. Remember, this is at your own risk. I am not a professional or a Toyota rep, I am just relating my experience and I am not recommending anyone try this. And I am also scared of lawyers!!
21. Replace black metal panel in gate.
22. Install speaker on black panel. There is a handy indentation near door ECU. Bundle up excess wire, you might want to move speaker later.
23. Replace gate trim panels. Be sure to overlap the top of the main panel at the base of the window, push it down until seated.
24. On outside of vehicle you can mount bracket to lic plate frame with short bolts/washers. Make sure head of bolt is small enough not to interfere with module mounting onto bracket. Also make sure bolts don't scratch paint behind plate. (This is if you do not use the lic plate mounting holes on the top of the plate. I tried this location and the module seemed to be in the way and casting a shadow. I also wanted it closer to the bumper).
25. I put some self adhesive weaterstripping foam on the back of the lic plate to keep it from rattling when closing the gate.
26. Leave some slack wire behind plate so the plate can be moved/positioned without pulling more wire out.
27. Silicone seal grommet and wire entrance on outside only.
28. Mount sensor to bracket. Make sure it is angled downward toward bumper. NOTE: Due to the angle of the lift gate mounting area, I may put spacers in to point the sensor even more downward, I have tested enough to determine this.
29. You should now be ready to test/use sensor. There is a potentiometer on the back of the sensor for sensitivity adjustment. Refer to instructions.
Let me know if you have any specific questions. I hope this helps you decide whether you would like to install a sensor on your Seq or not. Good Luck.
First off, forget the 20 minute professional install listed in the documentation. This is for a trunk with easy access to the backup light wires. It will take 3 to 4 hours for a good install in a Sequoia.
1. Remove panels on lift gate. These are held on with pin in hole connectors only. Use panel tool, wooden stick or taped screwdriver to pry edge of panels. The large panel is also lipped over the window seal so it will have to be pushed up when the connectors are popped loose.
2. Remove black metal insert. This will give you access to the sheet metal just behind the license plate. There are about 8 hex screws and two electrical connectors. Then the panel will pop off of 3 push connectors.
3. Now the painfull part. I could not find an existing access hole that would not allow wire to show around lic plate. I had to drill (ouch) large enough hole for wires. I suggest painting metal edge, use rubber grommet and silicone seal outsid only to prevent leaks and prevent trapping moisture in grommet.
4. Route wires from sensor, through bracket and then through lic plate and frame. NOTE: I suggest using plate frame with wide bottom to mount sensor. Then route wires through grommet (use silicone at end of install).
5. Be careful routing wires through lift gate. You will have to add extensions for power wires, but not sensor speaker wires. The sensor spkr can be mounted inside door. It is still loud enough. Route the wires following OEM wire path. NOTE!!!! pay attention to path for window to follow. If you cross the path with your wires, your sensor will work only until you roll the back window down the first time!
6. Fish the wires through existing rubber grommet on side of gate. Then run the wires up the existing wire path to the rubber pass through between gate and vehicle. It is a good idea to take the time to fish the wire through this rubber pass through. You need a firm wire, etc to make both bends.
7. There are three side panels to remove/displace on the side of the vehicle. These are harder to remove/replace and may deter you from trying this project.
8. Remove top inside trim panel. To do this, remove ceiling light plate by prying. Remove the two screws under this plate. The top panel will then pop off.
9. Remove the left quarter panel interior trim by removing the bottom door trim screws and lifting bottom door trim.
10. The cargo net connectors are tricky. Hold them around the edges and pull. The star piece will split in half toward you and you will pull out the center locking pin. Then the whole connector will come out. I broke one figuring this out.
11. The rest of the quarter panel trim will pop out. You need to have rear seat removed. You will probably drop/lose a couple of the U'shaped connector clips. Be prepared to buy a couple of clips before reinstalling panels!
12. Then you have to remove the middle left trim. Flip the cap open on seatbelt holder and remove seatbelt holddown bolt. Do this at your own risk!!!!! You need to be sure this bolt is retorqued to specifications for safety reasons. If anything, this information should warn you about what is entailed in the install, please don't let it entice you to do the install. I don't want that on my conscience (Thanks).
13. The black trim connectors are removed by pushing the center circle inward and then the whole connector will fall out. There are 3 of these on this panel, I think.
14. You can now run the wires down the inside edge of the vehicle. All wire routes should be along existing wire paths and should be cable tied to existing wire bundles, taking care not to add tension to any connections.
15. Using 3M splice connectors. The kind that might come with sensor kit, or the kind I use which are clamshells connectors that clamp around the wire and clip together while displacing insulation and then forming a female 1/4" spade connection to the wire. You can then plug a shrouded male 1/4" connector into it.
16. The backup light wires should be the following, but verify in your car by looking at actual backup light.
12V backup signal = Red w/blk stripe prior to final connector and Red w/blue stripe after final connector.
Ground = White w/blk stripe
17. Make wire connections and test by putting trans in reverse. Sensor should give acknowledgement beeps
18. Make sure wire runs have enough slack, are cable tied, do not interfere with door closure or back window roll-down path.
19. Replace interior panels and make sure all connectors are intact and snap well.
20. Replace seatbelt anchor and make sure torque is set to spec. Remember, this is at your own risk. I am not a professional or a Toyota rep, I am just relating my experience and I am not recommending anyone try this. And I am also scared of lawyers!!
21. Replace black metal panel in gate.
22. Install speaker on black panel. There is a handy indentation near door ECU. Bundle up excess wire, you might want to move speaker later.
23. Replace gate trim panels. Be sure to overlap the top of the main panel at the base of the window, push it down until seated.
24. On outside of vehicle you can mount bracket to lic plate frame with short bolts/washers. Make sure head of bolt is small enough not to interfere with module mounting onto bracket. Also make sure bolts don't scratch paint behind plate. (This is if you do not use the lic plate mounting holes on the top of the plate. I tried this location and the module seemed to be in the way and casting a shadow. I also wanted it closer to the bumper).
25. I put some self adhesive weaterstripping foam on the back of the lic plate to keep it from rattling when closing the gate.
26. Leave some slack wire behind plate so the plate can be moved/positioned without pulling more wire out.
27. Silicone seal grommet and wire entrance on outside only.
28. Mount sensor to bracket. Make sure it is angled downward toward bumper. NOTE: Due to the angle of the lift gate mounting area, I may put spacers in to point the sensor even more downward, I have tested enough to determine this.
29. You should now be ready to test/use sensor. There is a potentiometer on the back of the sensor for sensitivity adjustment. Refer to instructions.
Let me know if you have any specific questions. I hope this helps you decide whether you would like to install a sensor on your Seq or not. Good Luck.
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Comments
This was an AutoPark. You might also contact them. They might have mounting suggestions that are easier than mine.
One other thing: It's stamped right on the all-weather mats not to put them over existing (carpeted) floor mats -- so I removed standard front and rear carpeted mats. But the third row carpeted mat extends all the way back to the tailgate, so I left that one in, and put the AW mats on top of it.
I put the driver AW in for all time and I plan to swap out the other AW for the carpet ones whenever I have muddy soccer feet, etc. in the plans.
http://www.toyota-parts.com/page2.html
Go through the quiz (select "accessories"), then pick "all-weather mats".
Show your dealer those prices and ask him to match them. If not, order them from the site.
I haven't seen anything good for the cargo area yet. I may just cut up some old linoleum (just kidding).
But I did make a cargo liner for my wife's previa out of clear plastic carpet runner material (with the anti-slip knobs on the backside). It has worked great for 10 years, and I'll probably do the same for the Sequoia.
Cargo liner cost ~$100 from Premiere Motoring, but someone posted on Sequoia solutions that they got it cheaper (~$90) from Cabellas (not in their catalog, but apparently they have it in stock).
It has optional cut-outs that correspond to the holes in the factory carpet. You can leave them in to have the liner hold water, or you can cut them out to be able to use the 3rd row seats.
I had the same trouble on the jcwhitney site. They don't have the cargo liner anywhere on the web.
I had to get the number from a catalog. You can still order it on the web using the "place catalog order" function.
The stock number should be 760197. When you enter this the "76" will trigger a bunch of questions about your particular car type. With normal shipping you should receive it in just under two weeks.
The backup sensor is working as advertised. It has come in handy in a couple of parking garages. I have noted a couple of things. (1) Don't get overconfident on "non-car" items. I don't know if the performance is as reliable on tricycles, etc. (2) As the manual says, there are blind spots in the coverage area. If someone has to rely on this type of device for a lot of backing up in tight spaces, it would be wise to use two or three across the back to get complete coverage. A single unit install works best on things directly behind you and not as well for things that you might only hit with a corner of the bumper.
Thanks for the help.
The company doing this is Ultra Trim, located at Gardenia, CA. Phone #: 800-610-1117. Installed cost will vary. If you get a referral from a local dealer who uses their service, the cost would be $750 installed..
Good luck
Dij
Feed back please.....
takes 15 minutes. Just follow instructions. Just curious...Using the United Buying Services, were you furnished invoice and MSRP?
I had one on my old Ford Expedition and liked it much. It was contoured and curved to the shape of the hood and sat up high so you could easily clean underneath it with a towel. I couldn't locate the manufacturer's name on the bug deflector. This is what I am looking for on my Sequoia. Any recommendations?
I have had my car for 1 week and already have 2 window dings. Any suggestions? Does a hood deflector help?
road debris. One our recent vacation trip my previously virgin windshield encountered atleast
six rocks causing a number of let me call them "crazes" (not cracks or stars). I am more
concerned about the front bumper and grill. There are atleast as many rock chips there
as on my windshield and the plastics and paint used there does not seem to be particularly
"rock resistant". C'est la vie!