It sounds like one of two things may have happened to your replaced AC unit. Some metal filings from the previous compressor may have been left(inadvertantly) in the system which has finalling found it's way back to your new compressor, thus causing it to seize. Another thought is that because these TSB parts were so hard to find a few months ago, you may have received a new compressor but NOT the new suction tube which is really the HEART of the AC TSB. You can identify this by looking at this picture http://www.kevinhawk.com/toytsb.jpg and comparing it to your Sequoia. For your front rotors, there is another TSB (BR005-02)which addresses this problem. Rumor has it that this will soon become a full blown recall, but it includes new calipers, rotors and miscellaneous parts. This TSB is applicable to VIN numbers higher than 5TD*T##A#2S136792. Since your rotors have already been grinded once, you would receive new rotors. I know it's frustrating to have these problems with ancillary systems (thank god it's not the drivetrain!) but Toyota has indeed acknowledged these problems and produced fixes!
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My current other problem is that the rear gate window makes noises when the truck goes over bumps or in a turn. The window does not seem to be well secured for flexes too much.
I've had a problem with a sideview mirror that vibrates so much that it was useless above a certain speed. The mirror was loose, and the problem was corrected.
The front window occasionally squeaks, or the squeak may be coming from the dash board.
My truck is a '01 4x4 with only 8806 miles.
What you are describing sounds like just minor adjustments for the mirror and rear window that should be handled. Be careful with the A/C as this could haunt you if not corrected. If you are not happy take it back. You may have some metal filings blocking your system, especially if your compressor had problems.
By the way, I am getting my Seq. back today. My dealer has really been very good through out this whole mess. Toyota just needs to do a better job of communicating a problem exists and other issues so their dealers are better equipped to handle the upcoming issues. Good luck with your problems.
Here is what I noticed...
In my 2002 Sequoia (10K miles), when I drive, I have my center differential lock light blinking. This started to happen just last weekend. Its still blinking when I drive. In the past 5 months of use this never happened. The operation was normal - that is, the light blinks for few seconds during the shifting(2WD -> 4WD) process, and then it goes away - expected behavoir.
Now, it blinks ALWAYS regardless of whether I am in 2WD or 4WD. It starts to blink as soon as I turn on the ignition and stays blinking until I turn off the ignition.
I am going to take it to the dealer to check it out.
Any ideas of what this could be?
Anybody seen/heard about this before?
Hope that helps.
Thanks in advance.
I went with these new brakes because I was experiencing the rotor warping problem.
I've been running with them for about a month and they seem great. Time will tell on these, but for now the braking is great and they look good too.
I have experienced this problem before on other vehicles with ABS but it normally occurs immediately after you start the vehicle (which is when I am assuming you are having the prob). When the vehicle first starts, the ABS system goes through an initialization routine, where it checks the ABS actuators/solenoids on each brake caliper, just to make sure everything is working correctly. During this test, the pressure on the brake fluid in the master cylinder cycles, which causes the brake pedal to vibrate momentarily. Once the ABS check cycle has been completed (about 5-10 secs), then the vibration should stop on the brake pedal. Technically, this same phenomenon should occur regardless of the transmission position (D,N or R). Is your problem only evident immediately after starting the vehicle? Hope this helps.
Thanks in advance.
Glad to hear that the brake prob has been SOLVED. I think it was Colonel Mustard with the Candlestick in the Ballroom! As far as your oil goes, on any new vehicle, the components on an engine wear considerably more in the first few thousand miles, commonly known as the 'break-in period' than most any other period. During this time, essentially, all of the metal components in the engine are getting used to their new environment inside the engine, specifically the rings on the pistons. As this occurs, the metal from the piston rings (and other components), actually 'shed' very small metallic particles (e.g. metal-dust) as the metallic pieces rub against each other and become new neighbors. Even tho the engine has plenty of oil in it, this 'abrasion' still occurs on a very small scale. This abrasion also occurs over the life of the engine (a.k.a. engine wear), but it's more evident during the break-in period. As the metal dust gets created, the oil slicks it away to the filter, which may or may not catch the very fine particles. If it doesn't catch them, then they get recirculated into your engine and can cause additional abrasion, which is bad. This being the case, most owners manuals urge replacing the oil after about 3000 miles, once the break-in period is pretty much over. After that, oil changes are according to the owner's manual, but I prefer every 3500 miles, period. Sorry for the dissertation. Hope this helps as well. Regards.
any advice will be greatly appreciated
dealer called last week, my order has come in. i told them i may wait for another year to see what happen before i decide whether or not to replace it. they said it's up to me, but they also mentioned the compressor in general is also a problem, but it hadn't got to TSB yet.
is replacing the suction tube a big deal? if not, i might just ask them to replace just the tube. what should i do? i live in California, it's not hot like desert, but i hate to know it may break down when i go on a long trip in some hot weather, or it happens after my 3/3600 miles warranty.
I was surprised at the extent of the damage given the very slow speed I was travelling. The plastic was torn vertically at the rear face and the plastic rivets on the right side popped.
I was told by the dealer that the bumper needs to be replaced at a considerable cost.
Any suggestions to repair the tear and to pop the rivets back into their place?
As a comparison: a few years ago, I was rear ended by a car while driving a 1983 Jeep Grand Wagoneer with a metal bumper. There were some minor scratches on the bumper but the front of the offending car showed considerable damage. I question the wisdom of putting plastic bumpers on offroad capable vehicles like the SR5 4x4 which cannot withstand the rigors of offroad driving. Any comments?
Got a 2002 Sequoia new from dealer on Sept. 3, 2002. Beautiful machine, super quiet, smooooth on the drive home. Best vehicle we ever purchased.
All has been well till a few nights ago. Kinda bizarre, but suddenly I noticed a barely audible 'whir' from what I assume is the tranny. I have the 4wd SR5 model. Anyways, two nights ago, it seemed to progress from this barely audible 'whir' to more of a grumble. There also definitely is some kinda vibration and rumbling type sound which you can feel pulsing periodically (like every one two seconds) beyond just the background vibration and noise. Not loud, but annoying for sure.
Maybe I am hyper-sensitive now, but is sure seems like the engine is also louder than it was when we bought it. Kinda a tappa-tappa sound when giving it some gas to gently accelerate.
A co-worker rode with me to get some lunch yesterday and immediately commented what the heck is the problem. So it is reassuring to know it just isn't me.
I am surprised that a smooth and quiet machine now is not smooth and not as quiet as when purchased. It has 600 miles on it now and I have followed the 'break in' recommendations in the manual to a 'T'.
Anyone else with similar experiences or stories of friends w/ same problem?
I am starting the process w/ Toyota, starting with my dealer and working with them to get the vehicle in and thoroughly checked out. I also called Toyota Customer Assistance to open a case #. I guess I also should follow the brochure in the owner's manual about my state's Lemon Law stipulations 'in case' this blows out of control. Sure hope that route never materializes.
All I know is that this isn't ordinary for a vehicle.
Also does your engine tick after you shut it off? I have heard up north someone say like a tap, and tick...
Starting to worry...
As far as the ticking goes after turning it off, that's very normal. It's the external engine components (exhaust manifold sheild and others) contracting during the cool down process. This will actually become less pronounced after the engine gets through a few heat cycles.
One thing I might share--- at 500 miles we were about 150 miles from home at 10:00 at night we had a problem with loss of power and lights going dim and battery light coming on --- I call the salesman that sold us the car at home (he gave us his home number and said if we had any kind of problem to call him direct) so we did--- he brought us a new sequoia and a wrecker and we headed home. At the shop the next day they found that a wiring harness had burned and the had to order the parts to fix the problem-- mean while I we drove another new sequoia I can except new things have some problem as long as your dealer will help you out and keep my wife on the road--- just a small comment for you guys ---bdk
Also, something freaked me out the other day..I had my rear windows open and the front windows closed..once I hit about 30 - 40mi the car sounded like it was really vibrating so much so, I had a ringing in my ears..Then I closed the windows and opened my front;'s and then I opened all the windows and no problems. Only with the rear only open..So strange.. My hubby said it was probably air pressure ..Have you or anyone else noticed this...
P.S.. I love this truck despite the few annoyances..lol.
Thanks for your quick response.....
Did Toyota also made the brake rotors bigger?
A few months ago, I started noticing that the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and below during idle. The dealer checked sending unit, gauge and did a manual pressure check - all checked with in normal specifications. Problem, however, continued. Eventually, both sending unit and gauge were replaced and problem went away. About two weeks ago, same problem returned with one change. Now at idle, accerleration, and highway speed, needle will fall below zero and even fall to the rest postion (as if the ignition switch was off) and stay there for long periods of time - occasionally rising to normal values and then droping to the rest position. This message is not meant to reflect negatively on the dealership - they have been very helpful with this problem. My concerns are: 1)If a problem does indeed exist with in the engine and it can not be solved, I may be at risk for long term damage and significant out-of-pocket expense and 2) when it comes to resale or trade-in time, how will I explain an oil pressure gauge reading of zero at highway speed - even though the dealer says that the truck is fine and there is nothing more to do. I know I would not buy it! I would like some sound advice on how I can protect my truck and my investment.
Willis Scott Mozingo
P.S. Yes, the engine has oil!
Changed the oil/lubed regularly and did maintenance checks. Only "problem" was a wimpy antenna: hit some low-hanging leaves and bent it back like a match stick. Toyota was not pleased with me, but they replaced it under warranty and I turn off the radio on shady streets (just kidding:-).
I had to rework the brakes last week - but after reading some of these posts, I feel 40K was pretty good. We did have the wearing in-brake light phenomenon at 15,000 miles, but a bit of fluid fixed that. Front tires (original Dunlops) are wearing on the outside, but tires are probably close to being replaced.
We just encountered our first real problem. Similar to the oil gauge posts, my fuel gauge has twice gone to below Empty, with half a tank of gas, and stuck there. Several weeks ago, truck was parked on an incline facing downhill for 2 days without moving (I know it's hard to believe I could put 40K on it in a year and still have it sit quiet for a day or two, but it's true). I drove about 10 miles and it did not budge much. Filled the tank (just in case someone stole my gas, hard to believe with the protection it has) and it took half a tank and the needle popped up to full. Chalked it up to odd parking. Last week, turned it off with half a tank. Turned it on, gauge reads less than empty. Any thoughts?
It sounds like one of two things may have happened to your replaced AC unit. Some metal filings from the previous compressor may have been left(inadvertantly) in the system which has finalling found it's way back to your new compressor, thus causing it to seize. Another thought is that because these TSB parts were so hard to find a few months ago, you may have received a new compressor but NOT the new suction tube which is really the HEART of the AC TSB. You can identify this by looking at this picture http://www.kevinhawk.com/toytsb.jpg and comparing it to your Sequoia.
For your front rotors, there is another TSB (BR005-02)which addresses this problem. Rumor has it that this will soon become a full blown recall, but it includes new calipers, rotors and miscellaneous parts. This TSB is applicable to VIN numbers higher than 5TD*T##A#2S136792. Since your rotors have already been grinded once, you would receive new rotors.
I know it's frustrating to have these problems with ancillary systems (thank god it's not the drivetrain!) but Toyota has indeed acknowledged these problems and produced fixes!
I enjoy my sequioa--with two teenage boys who play hockey and a little girl, it accomadates our family beautifully.
We also experience the situation with the back windows down. It scared my to death the first time. Toyota should inform their customers of this.
Has anyone ever filed a lemon law with Toyota?
I know that in 2001 this was discussed in Sequoia Solutions forum. Reportedly, some have had their 01 VSC modules replaced with 02 modules, and have reported much less premature engagement of VSC as a result. However, these threads are now unavailable since there was a major systems crash according to one of the forum's moderators.
I searched this Town Hall and now find that others have experienced and discussed this problem as well:
Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #8 23 Apr 2001 slickrock
Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #5 21 Apr 2001 fishcar
Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #4 21 Apr 2001 ka5ljb
Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #42 01 Nov 2001 curtcurtiss
Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #55 30 Nov 2001 dorene1
Have any of you successfully resolved your problem on this issue?
the front bumper and side cladding. In my opinion, the cause of this is the soft plastic used
for the bumpers and cladding. Rocks just dig right in. Conversly, the interior plastics are
too hard and prone to scratching with sharp objects as well. I am comparing these to my 1996
4-Runner Ltd. that also has plastic cladding, is black in color, and is relatively scratch free,
both interior and exterior for a vehicle that is 6 years old.