Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair



  • lcd1lcd1 Member Posts: 147
    I had an AC problem and I am still not totally satisfied with the performance of my AC. Now I know I'm not alone. Thanks for the postings.

    My current other problem is that the rear gate window makes noises when the truck goes over bumps or in a turn. The window does not seem to be well secured for flexes too much.

    I've had a problem with a sideview mirror that vibrates so much that it was useless above a certain speed. The mirror was loose, and the problem was corrected.

    The front window occasionally squeaks, or the squeak may be coming from the dash board.

    My truck is a '01 4x4 with only 8806 miles.
  • 19tb4619tb46 Member Posts: 5
    lcd1 Jul 23, 2002 11:30am

    What you are describing sounds like just minor adjustments for the mirror and rear window that should be handled. Be careful with the A/C as this could haunt you if not corrected. If you are not happy take it back. You may have some metal filings blocking your system, especially if your compressor had problems.

    By the way, I am getting my Seq. back today. My dealer has really been very good through out this whole mess. Toyota just needs to do a better job of communicating a problem exists and other issues so their dealers are better equipped to handle the upcoming issues. Good luck with your problems.
  • somakandansomakandan Member Posts: 14
    I am posting this Problem here. When I find the solution (either from the dealer or from other message boards), I'll post the solution, as well.

    Here is what I noticed...

    In my 2002 Sequoia (10K miles), when I drive, I have my center differential lock light blinking. This started to happen just last weekend. Its still blinking when I drive. In the past 5 months of use this never happened. The operation was normal - that is, the light blinks for few seconds during the shifting(2WD -> 4WD) process, and then it goes away - expected behavoir.
    Now, it blinks ALWAYS regardless of whether I am in 2WD or 4WD. It starts to blink as soon as I turn on the ignition and stays blinking until I turn off the ignition.

    I am going to take it to the dealer to check it out.

    Any ideas of what this could be?
    Anybody seen/heard about this before?
  • san6san6 Member Posts: 1
    We have a new 2002 Sequoia that makes a loud vibrating or humming noise (coming from the back left tire area) and is only noticeable after the engine shuts down. I called the dealer who told me it's the carbon (or charcoal) canister and not to worry about it. My friend who also owns a Sequoia doesn't seem to have this noise so I'm still concerned. Can anyone else confirm that they know what I'm talking about? It seems to go on for several minutes after the car shuts down.
  • physiochemphysiochem Member Posts: 22
    No idea what it is, but wanted to let you know that at least one other sequoia owner has the same noise!
  • petro33petro33 Member Posts: 192
    next time it makes a humming noise loosen the gas cap and see if it goes away. Mine will do this some times in hot weather. There some old discussions on this topic back about six months...
  • jrtannurajrtannura Member Posts: 18
    Have about 6000 miles on my 02 4x4... seem to get what I would describe as a catalytic converter,(rotten egg) smell in the car. Have tried different vent. settings with no change. Have tried different gas also. I cann't figure out how it is getting into the car. Anyone else have this happen? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  • sbudreausbudreau Member Posts: 1
    Two days ago the emergency light came on as I used the regular brakes and then the VSC lights came on and would not go off. Went to the Dealer and the service dept. said I only have 40% brake pads left and will need a brake job soon. Is this a problem with Sequoias? I know it's a heavy vehicle but shouldn't they put upgraded pads on them? I don't ride my brakes and I'm not a hard driver. Mostly suburban driving. Had 2 forerunners before this and never had any brake problems. Anyone else having this problem?
  • rph74rph74 Member Posts: 14
    Hi, I've been reading these posts, and I am a little reserved about buying a sequoia now. Do the A/C problems mainly affect the early models (2001), or has Toyota addressed the problem with an improved compressor? The brake rotor warpage is not too big of a deal to me, easily can be replaced myself, however, I don't want to deal with a bad A/C system!! Are most people satisfied with their cars here?
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Don't worry about the Sequoia!! The A/C problem was fixed in production many months ago! This is one SWEET machine that rides so smoothly with an engine and drivetrain that's reliable. On these discussion boards, you always see problems! Heck, you should see some of the stuff on even the Lexus boards. It's a good place to identify problem areas on certain models, but it's difficult to nail down what percentages of owners are actually seeing the problems. Simply use this website as one datasource. Also access the TSB's specific to each vehicle that you're interested in on the NHTSA website. Consumer Reports is also your best bet for objective analysis.
  • jrtannurajrtannura Member Posts: 18
    Great advise from raddboy... I've owned a number of landcruisers and toy. vans and have never regretted the decision. When the rare problem occurs, I can usually get it straightened out. Overall I have been very happy with the 02 Seq. Drove across I80 during the hottest days of summer and loved the AC... my family really likes the rear control. Good luck
  • rph74rph74 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for your input guys. I still think I'll be buying a Sequoia, probably when the 2003's come out, to ensure the A/C problem is resolved. I have to sell at least one of my cars anyway, so time is on my side that way. After owning imports the past few years (including a Lexus SC300 currently), I would probably find it difficult to spend big money on a domestic, as I have had problems with them in the past, including a 99 Alero. The fit and finish on Toyota's are certainly far superior to its competitors in my opinion, and durability of the drivetrain should be quite good, if past is any indicator. My Lexus has 129,500 miles but still runs like new, it is just unbelievable!!
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    You can check to see if your Sequoia has the A/C TSB installed by looking in the engine compartment and comparing it to this:
  • mudgedwardsmudgedwards Member Posts: 2
    We had a bad smell from our 2002 Sequoia w/ 25,000 miles. The dealership wasn't much help. We took it in, they couldn't make it smell so that kept it all day and gave it back. I thought it was a catalytic converter smell too. The dealer told me not to use ARCO gas. But we also had a slow leak in our back driver side tire. So when we went to get it patched my husband found that the wheel casing/bearing (not sure if that is the right term, hope you know what I mean) was totally dry and leaking grease.

    Hope that helps.
  • doudoudiddoudoudid Member Posts: 76
    if there is no new A/C TSB installed, can we ask for one? mine 2002 bought at 2001 august, will it be already taken care of?
  • jrtannurajrtannura Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the "bad odor" idea... did you ever get it fixed and if so how?
  • low_ball_88low_ball_88 Member Posts: 171
    I have a 2002 LTD with only 2500 miles. I noticed that when I put the car in reverse and my foot is on the brake pedal, the pedal seems to give a little and makes a grunting sound. This only happens when I put in into gear (Reverse or Drive). Has anyone experience this before? Is it normal?

    Thanks in advance.
  • bdkellerbdkeller Member Posts: 3
    Back in July I posted (#95) that I purchased new drilled and slotted front rotors with carbon/kevlar pads. I also paid to have the rotors cyrogenically treated.

    I went with these new brakes because I was experiencing the rotor warping problem.

    I've been running with them for about a month and they seem great. Time will tell on these, but for now the braking is great and they look good too.
  • ch4emitrch4emitr Member Posts: 2
    I have experienced this problem before on other vehicles with ABS but it normally occurs immediately after you start the vehicle (which is when I am assuming you are having the prob). When the vehicle first starts, the ABS system goes through an initialization routine, where it checks the ABS actuators/solenoids on each brake caliper, just to make sure everything is working correctly. During this test, the pressure on the brake fluid in the master cylinder cycles, which causes the brake pedal to vibrate momentarily. Once the ABS check cycle has been completed (about 5-10 secs), then the vibration should stop on the brake pedal. Technically, this same phenomenon should occur regardless of the transmission position (D,N or R). Is your problem only evident immediately after starting the vehicle? Hope this helps.
  • low_ball_88low_ball_88 Member Posts: 171
    Thanks ch! It only happens when I start the vehicle. Thanks again for the technical analysis of the problem. I was worry that my brakes where loose or something. BTW, I have the vehicle for over 3 1/2 months and have not changed the oil yet because I was waiting til I get to around 5000 miles. Is this a good idea or should I change it regardless of mileage but changing every 3-4 months intervals.

    Thanks in advance.
  • ch4emitrch4emitr Member Posts: 2
    Glad to hear that the brake prob has been SOLVED. I think it was Colonel Mustard with the Candlestick in the Ballroom! As far as your oil goes, on any new vehicle, the components on an engine wear considerably more in the first few thousand miles, commonly known as the 'break-in period' than most any other period. During this time, essentially, all of the metal components in the engine are getting used to their new environment inside the engine, specifically the rings on the pistons. As this occurs, the metal from the piston rings (and other components), actually 'shed' very small metallic particles (e.g. metal-dust) as the metallic pieces rub against each other and become new neighbors. Even tho the engine has plenty of oil in it, this 'abrasion' still occurs on a very small scale. This abrasion also occurs over the life of the engine (a.k.a. engine wear), but it's more evident during the break-in period. As the metal dust gets created, the oil slicks it away to the filter, which may or may not catch the very fine particles. If it doesn't catch them, then they get recirculated into your engine and can cause additional abrasion, which is bad. This being the case, most owners manuals urge replacing the oil after about 3000 miles, once the break-in period is pretty much over. After that, oil changes are according to the owner's manual, but I prefer every 3500 miles, period. Sorry for the dissertation. Hope this helps as well. Regards.
  • lupgalupga Member Posts: 8
    my dealer said if I'm worry about the ac problem, they can order the whole AC unit from toyota and replace it for me under warranty. should i do that? my ac is working fine so far.

    any advice will be greatly appreciated
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    It's not the WHOLE unit that has the problem. It's just the suction tube that needs replacing unless the compressor has already imploded. Have you checked your suction tube design to see if it's up to date?
  • lupgalupga Member Posts: 8
    i checked with toyota customer service, according to their info. the new suction tube has only been replaced at the beginning of 02. mine 02 bought in august 01. so it's unlikely the new tube. also i checked it with the picture, it doesn't like the new suction tube.

    dealer called last week, my order has come in. i told them i may wait for another year to see what happen before i decide whether or not to replace it. they said it's up to me, but they also mentioned the compressor in general is also a problem, but it hadn't got to TSB yet.

    is replacing the suction tube a big deal? if not, i might just ask them to replace just the tube. what should i do? i live in California, it's not hot like desert, but i hate to know it may break down when i go on a long trip in some hot weather, or it happens after my 3/3600 miles warranty.
  • pebrupebru Member Posts: 10
    I damaged the rear bumper of my SR5 4x4 while backing up offroad at no more than 1 mph. The bumper made contact with a tree just to the left of the right reflector.

    I was surprised at the extent of the damage given the very slow speed I was travelling. The plastic was torn vertically at the rear face and the plastic rivets on the right side popped.

    I was told by the dealer that the bumper needs to be replaced at a considerable cost.

    Any suggestions to repair the tear and to pop the rivets back into their place?

    As a comparison: a few years ago, I was rear ended by a car while driving a 1983 Jeep Grand Wagoneer with a metal bumper. There were some minor scratches on the bumper but the front of the offending car showed considerable damage. I question the wisdom of putting plastic bumpers on offroad capable vehicles like the SR5 4x4 which cannot withstand the rigors of offroad driving. Any comments?
  • seymourveeseymourvee Member Posts: 1
    Got a 2002 Sequoia new from dealer on Sept. 3, 2002. Beautiful machine, super quiet, smooooth on the drive home. Best vehicle we ever purchased.

    All has been well till a few nights ago. Kinda bizarre, but suddenly I noticed a barely audible 'whir' from what I assume is the tranny. I have the 4wd SR5 model. Anyways, two nights ago, it seemed to progress from this barely audible 'whir' to more of a grumble. There also definitely is some kinda vibration and rumbling type sound which you can feel pulsing periodically (like every one two seconds) beyond just the background vibration and noise. Not loud, but annoying for sure.

    Maybe I am hyper-sensitive now, but is sure seems like the engine is also louder than it was when we bought it. Kinda a tappa-tappa sound when giving it some gas to gently accelerate.

    A co-worker rode with me to get some lunch yesterday and immediately commented what the heck is the problem. So it is reassuring to know it just isn't me.

    I am surprised that a smooth and quiet machine now is not smooth and not as quiet as when purchased. It has 600 miles on it now and I have followed the 'break in' recommendations in the manual to a 'T'.

    Anyone else with similar experiences or stories of friends w/ same problem?

    I am starting the process w/ Toyota, starting with my dealer and working with them to get the vehicle in and thoroughly checked out. I also called Toyota Customer Assistance to open a case #. I guess I also should follow the brochure in the owner's manual about my state's Lemon Law stipulations 'in case' this blows out of control. Sure hope that route never materializes.

    All I know is that this isn't ordinary for a vehicle.
  • trustgodtrustgod Member Posts: 4
    Purchased 9/12/02: Excellent overall, but vibration from inside roof line approx. 5 inches behind dome light. We have a moonroof that is quiet, but appears Toyota did not insulate between the interior roof line and the outside metal. If I use my one finger and push up on the interior roof the vibration stops..Please help.. Besides the dealer, where could I take my vehicle to have this reviewed..Live in San Diego
  • allocca2allocca2 Member Posts: 7
    I just bought my 2002 SR5 a week ago.. I notice everything..So far recently sounds like when your in a bus and things vibrate, very annoying..Anyone else here it??? Maybe same problem as seymourvee up there...

    Also does your engine tick after you shut it off? I have heard up north someone say like a tap, and tick...

    Starting to worry...
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    The Sequoia actually rides like a dream...most of the time. I think you are correct that you definitely feel a pretty good bump when you hit a place in the road that catches both rear wheels at the same time. This is really inherant to the rear axle design instead of having fully independent suspension. The Sequoia is certainly the smoothest full size SUV I've ever driven considering that it's built on a truck frame.

    As far as the ticking goes after turning it off, that's very normal. It's the external engine components (exhaust manifold sheild and others) contracting during the cool down process. This will actually become less pronounced after the engine gets through a few heat cycles.
  • bkendr00bkendr00 Member Posts: 1
    I am a new owner (2weeks). SUV has a great ride and operates better than any other car I have had.

    One thing I might share--- at 500 miles we were about 150 miles from home at 10:00 at night we had a problem with loss of power and lights going dim and battery light coming on --- I call the salesman that sold us the car at home (he gave us his home number and said if we had any kind of problem to call him direct) so we did--- he brought us a new sequoia and a wrecker and we headed home. At the shop the next day they found that a wiring harness had burned and the had to order the parts to fix the problem-- mean while I we drove another new sequoia I can except new things have some problem as long as your dealer will help you out and keep my wife on the road--- just a small comment for you guys ---bdk
  • allocca2allocca2 Member Posts: 7
    I agree that this suv rides awesome..I guess I'm used to driving a car and not body on frame design.

    Also, something freaked me out the other day..I had my rear windows open and the front windows closed..once I hit about 30 - 40mi the car sounded like it was really vibrating so much so, I had a ringing in my ears..Then I closed the windows and opened my front;'s and then I opened all the windows and no problems. Only with the rear only open..So strange.. My hubby said it was probably air pressure ..Have you or anyone else noticed this...


    P.S.. I love this truck despite the few
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Yeah, if you roll the rear windows down by themselves you get wonderful air pressure reverberation. It's normal and happens in a lot of vehicles. Hey, if you've got a headcold, it's great for popping the ears! :^)You'll also notice sometimes when driving with the rear window down a slight odor of ammonia. This too is common on the Sequoia and is a product of Toyota's achieving ULEV(Ultra-low Emissions Vehicle) certification on the Sequoia. I read a technical document somewhere that described how this ammonia by-product was produced under certain conditions in the catalytic converter. No big deal...
  • allocca2allocca2 Member Posts: 7
    I feel alot better understanding this air pressure situation.. whew..

    Thanks for your quick response.....
  • will4271will4271 Member Posts: 187
    I noticed that the '03 has bigger rims (17") on most model except the base. It used to be only 16".

    Did Toyota also made the brake rotors bigger?
  • physiochemphysiochem Member Posts: 22
    Vehichle: 2002 Sequoia LTD 4X4
    Mileage: 27,000
    A few months ago, I started noticing that the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and below during idle. The dealer checked sending unit, gauge and did a manual pressure check - all checked with in normal specifications. Problem, however, continued. Eventually, both sending unit and gauge were replaced and problem went away. About two weeks ago, same problem returned with one change. Now at idle, accerleration, and highway speed, needle will fall below zero and even fall to the rest postion (as if the ignition switch was off) and stay there for long periods of time - occasionally rising to normal values and then droping to the rest position. This message is not meant to reflect negatively on the dealership - they have been very helpful with this problem. My concerns are: 1)If a problem does indeed exist with in the engine and it can not be solved, I may be at risk for long term damage and significant out-of-pocket expense and 2) when it comes to resale or trade-in time, how will I explain an oil pressure gauge reading of zero at highway speed - even though the dealer says that the truck is fine and there is nothing more to do. I know I would not buy it! I would like some sound advice on how I can protect my truck and my investment.
    Willis Scott Mozingo
    P.S. Yes, the engine has oil!
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    It is NOT NORMAL for the oil pressure gauge to read that low!! Best scenario is that the engine oil pressure is fine and that you're just receiving a bad reading. Your comment about what to do if the truck can't be fixed should never be spoken. Your Sequoia is under warranty and should be fixed whether it is the sending unit, gauge or any other part of the system! Your attitude towards the dealership should be that this situation is UNACCEPTABLE. I know you feel that the dealership is working in earnest to resolve the problem, but it's time to cover your "[non-permissible content removed]". Keep records of EVERYTHING that has been done to the truck as well as timelines. Keep taking the SUV back to the dealer until the gauge is reading properly 100% of the time and readup on the applicable lemon laws for your state. That being said, it sounds like you have an intermittent problem with a wiring harness.
  • missemisse Member Posts: 22
    I picked up my '01 6/1/2001. Biggest problem: we've already put 41,000 miles on it! I am a full-time Mom and we have 2 vehicles in the family. We replaced a Lincoln Town car, my road-touring/kid hauling vehicle. We used to use our Chevy truck for camping, rough roads, and towing our heavy fishing boat, but the 4WD, reliability, better braking, better turning radius, and covered cargo space retired the truck for recreation.

    Changed the oil/lubed regularly and did maintenance checks. Only "problem" was a wimpy antenna: hit some low-hanging leaves and bent it back like a match stick. Toyota was not pleased with me, but they replaced it under warranty and I turn off the radio on shady streets (just kidding:-).

    I had to rework the brakes last week - but after reading some of these posts, I feel 40K was pretty good. We did have the wearing in-brake light phenomenon at 15,000 miles, but a bit of fluid fixed that. Front tires (original Dunlops) are wearing on the outside, but tires are probably close to being replaced.

    We just encountered our first real problem. Similar to the oil gauge posts, my fuel gauge has twice gone to below Empty, with half a tank of gas, and stuck there. Several weeks ago, truck was parked on an incline facing downhill for 2 days without moving (I know it's hard to believe I could put 40K on it in a year and still have it sit quiet for a day or two, but it's true). I drove about 10 miles and it did not budge much. Filled the tank (just in case someone stole my gas, hard to believe with the protection it has) and it took half a tank and the needle popped up to full. Chalked it up to odd parking. Last week, turned it off with half a tank. Turned it on, gauge reads less than empty. Any thoughts?
  • cindilcindil Member Posts: 18
    I have had the same problem as you stated with the wind noise with my back windows down. My 4 year old son had opened up the back window on the highway and the car was vibrating so bad from the wind that the passenger seat was literally bouncing back and forth. The noise actually hurt my ears. I had that problem with my Nissan Max also. The dealer told me that it is caused by the way the wind enters the vehicle. They said for me to roll the window up a little and it should take care of it. It does seem to help.
  • triple_btriple_b Member Posts: 7
    My two cents to the Problems discussion... Have had my '02 Sequoia for 14 months now, 25k miles on it. AC compressor froze at 16,500 miles, 5 months ago. Dealership had my truck for 32 days waiting for parts. Meanwhile I worked with Toyota Corp. to get me in a Sequoia loaner instead of the Trooper that had given me. Was able to get a 6yr/75k extended warranty for my trouble. Rotor vibration/warping at 19k, around 3 to 4 months ago. Dealer resurfaced without an issue, and haven't had any problems since. Now at 25k, AC compressor completely froze, AGAIN! Working with Toyota Corp. and dealer Customer Care rep., before bringing truck in to determine timing, loaner, etc. I really do enjoy my truck, but this is getting frustrating. Seriously considering my options at this point.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Cross posted to the Sequoia forum....

    It sounds like one of two things may have happened to your replaced AC unit. Some metal filings from the previous compressor may have been left(inadvertantly) in the system which has finalling found it's way back to your new compressor, thus causing it to seize. Another thought is that because these TSB parts were so hard to find a few months ago, you may have received a new compressor but NOT the new suction tube which is really the HEART of the AC TSB. You can identify this by looking at this picture and comparing it to your Sequoia.

      For your front rotors, there is another TSB (BR005-02)which addresses this problem. Rumor has it that this will soon become a full blown recall, but it includes new calipers, rotors and miscellaneous parts. This TSB is applicable to VIN numbers higher than 5TD*T##A#2S136792. Since your rotors have already been grinded once, you would receive new rotors.
    I know it's frustrating to have these problems with ancillary systems (thank god it's not the drivetrain!) but Toyota has indeed acknowledged these problems and produced fixes!

  • mjb18mjb18 Member Posts: 1
    I just had my Sequoia in for its 15,000 check-up. The milage is at 16,000. I was informed that I had 10% left on my brake pads and $370 to replace. I have never had to replace my brakepads on my other vehicles this quickly. I am also concerned with the wear on my tires.

    I enjoy my sequioa--with two teenage boys who play hockey and a little girl, it accomadates our family beautifully.

    We also experience the situation with the back windows down. It scared my to death the first time. Toyota should inform their customers of this.
  • rcall1rcall1 Member Posts: 1
    My Sequoia started having some weird electrical problems about 3000 miles ago (28000) and has been to the dealer several times. The first problem is with the feature that allows the windows to be opened or closed for about 45 sec after the engine is turned off. Opening the front doors de-powers the windows, while opening the back doors shouldn't. 9 out of 10 times everything works great but occasionally, when one of the kids opens the back door I can't raise or lower the windows. The other problem is the back window has twice refused to open or close when tried with the key or switch but will work fine again the next day, ie., when I get to the dealer. Toyota just says "could not duplicate"
  • malu808malu808 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 SR5 with 18,000 miles on it. I was wondering if anyone else's parking brake has lock-up on the vehicle? Ever since that occurred and Toyota claimed to have fixed the problem, I have been experiencing more problems with the brakes and additional problems not related to brakes. The vehicle has been in and out of the service department about six times already. First, they said the parking brake was rusted, the pad had rusted to rotor. Which they insisted that I tow a boat and drive the vehicle in water. What does this mean? I can't drive the vehicle in the rain. I told the service manager, that I don't have a boat nor did I drive it in water. Now, when I apply the brake hard there's a groaning or grunting sound. I had this confirmed with the so called lead mechanic from the dealership were i purchased the vehicle on a road test on 10/7/02 have not seen my vehicle since. I'm in the process of pursuing on filing a lemon law to have my vehicle replaced.

    Has anyone ever filed a lemon law with Toyota?
  • movanmovan Member Posts: 32
    Toyota and I are meeting with a 3rd party arbitrator next week regarding my complaint that my 01 Sequoia Ltd has an unsafe condition. Specifically, when turning right into traffic from a standing start and accelerating to merge, I lose power just when I need it!

    I know that in 2001 this was discussed in Sequoia Solutions forum. Reportedly, some have had their 01 VSC modules replaced with 02 modules, and have reported much less premature engagement of VSC as a result. However, these threads are now unavailable since there was a major systems crash according to one of the forum's moderators.

    I searched this Town Hall and now find that others have experienced and discussed this problem as well:

    Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #8 23 Apr 2001 slickrock
    Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #5 21 Apr 2001 fishcar
    Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #4 21 Apr 2001 ka5ljb
    Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #42 01 Nov 2001 curtcurtiss
    Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions #55 30 Nov 2001 dorene1

    Have any of you successfully resolved your problem on this issue?
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Movan, remember that this is a TRAC problem, not VSC. VSC has to do with the Vehicle Skid Control which controls YAW, not traction. Although the two systems may be tied together, you might have some problems in arbitration if you don't refer to the proper system. Legalese and all that. Hey, good luck to you! I hate that this has practically ruined your ownership of the Sequoia. I absolutely love mine and couldn't imagine driving any other full size SUV.
  • rishyjorishyjo Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2001, 2WD, Limited with 25K miles, and I love it! However, the paint job seems a little flimsy. My last Toyota was 12 years old when it was sold and the paint held up great! I am a little surprised that this paint job is so weak(it has a ton of nicks and chips from regular, normal driving) . Anyone else have a paint job problem?
  • trdsctwotrdsctwo Member Posts: 67
    I also have not been satisfied with the durability of the paint. I have a number of rock chips on
    the front bumper and side cladding. In my opinion, the cause of this is the soft plastic used
    for the bumpers and cladding. Rocks just dig right in. Conversly, the interior plastics are
    too hard and prone to scratching with sharp objects as well. I am comparing these to my 1996
    4-Runner Ltd. that also has plastic cladding, is black in color, and is relatively scratch free,
    both interior and exterior for a vehicle that is 6 years old.
  • arcticmanarcticman Member Posts: 26
    Brought my 02 ltd. in for tire rotation and mentioned to the svc. manager that my 94 4runner had a better paint job than my Seq. He agreed and said that environmentalists (via the fed. govt.) pressured the auto industry to stop using lead based paints. As a result the paint used in vehicles today is less durable than in previous years. How true this is I don't know. I do know that the paint job on my 40 thousand dollar SUV is a big disappointment. I have an appt. next month to replace rear tranny seal that started weeping at 6000 miles. Anyone else with this minor(?) problem?
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    Most of the chipping problems stem from EPA changes. I believe that most of the paint today is water based and cures very hard, making it brittle. I highly doubt that the soft plastic contributes to this, if anything, it would provide some absorbsion. The best thing you can do is put on a 3M clear bra. My 02 Maxima has it and it does an excellent job and I just did my new 02 Sequoia.
  • cindilcindil Member Posts: 18
    The other day when we were backing up a hill and turning the wheel, we experienced a terrible noise from the front of the vehicle. The next two days I had a similar noise when turning right (at the same corner). These are the only times I have heard this noise (I have 1,400 miles on my Sequoia). I just took it in to have it looked at and they are saying that the noise is caused when VSC kicks in. It sounds like a grinding noise. Has anyone else experienced this? Also, when VSC kicks in, does your dashboard tell you? Thanks,
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