Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

driver100

I wonder if very many people really care about the residual price when they lease a car? I also wonder how many people think about residual price when they buy a car. One of my Florida friends from Canada has a 2014 XTS and he wants to buy a new XT5. The XT5 is $70k (priced a little high for what seems to be a very good car...but, not one that gets lots of praise) and his Cadillac dealer is only offering him $22000 for his trade-in....talk about low residual.

OTOH, my friend who leased a 2015 Honda Fit can buy out the Fit in about a year for $9000, and it will have about 8000 miles on it. He has been paying about $300 a month for 36 months...but, he will have a good used car for under $10K.

Getting back to residual on a lease, probably 80% of people just care about the monthly payment- my guess.

stickguy

on a buy, a fair number of people pay attention to depreciation, the way you would think about residual if you are buying it. On a lease? Almost no one, because they don't plan to buy the car, so it is essentially meaningless.

nyccarguy

Residuals mean a lot.  To me, if I'm buying a car I want one with a strong resale value.  This way i never have to worry about being under water if I want to trade it in.  

If I'm looking to lease, I want a vehicle with a high Residual (inflated or otherwise) because that means my payments will be lower.

Right now I'm at a crossroad with our 2011 4WD Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation.  It is paid off and has over 101,000 miles on it.  It's required a decent amount of maintenance since we paid it off back In May 2016.  I just had the alternator and battery replaced last week (thank g-d it died in the driveway).  It is going to need a lot of expensive maintenance in the next 4,000 miles or so (t-belt, tensioner, h2o pump, spark plugs, coolant flush, brake fluid, oil, differential fluid, transmission fluid) plus it makes a terrible grinding noise when making low speed turns when the wheel is cranked.

The Pilot fits our family perfectly.  A slightly bigger, newer body style would be even better.  They hold their value very well.  The Residual value from honda finance is 54% after 36 months/45K miles (with a 5% interest rate).  I've been quoted almost $600 per month for a $44K SUV.  I could finance it (0.9% for 60 months) and dump it in 3 years and come out ahead... but that's a big monthly nut.  I've priced out some used Pilots and get aren't that much cheaper than new ones. 

stickguy

I knew this was coming! Or, for the up front costs and 3/4 payments, bite the bullet, do everything, and plan to run it into the ground (at least 150K to make it worth while). And hope that nothing unexpected goes instead.

If you really are leasing, should at least shop the other options. Santa Fe might be cheaper. Or a Pathfinder. Stuff like that. But sounds like a better idea would be to take the cheap financing and buy it to keep. On the Honda, new not used.

suydam

The lease is $600 a month? Wow! What about buying a new one? What’s the trade in on your current Pilot? It does seem like it’s getting to be that time. A lot of repairs for a 7 year old vehicle.

stickguy

OK, playing with the calculator, and numbers don't fully make sense. the lease seems high, but regardless, you would still have the cash back out of the Pilot.

on a new one, seems that it is still 2017s so probably a good discount off the $44,460 MSRP. So, say can score a deal at about 40, Or be conservative, 41K. Add tax and tags, whatever that is. Say $3k. So, ballpark $44K . But, got a trade in! is that worth about 10K still? So now looking at about $33K loan, nothing OOP.

that at .9 is about $550-560/month. Plus you go up in goodies. Might save a couple bucks a month on gas. And, the $Ks due in repairs can go to other purposes. or the first 5 payments!

sda

Before I bought the new Michelins and had the thorough maintenance including timing belt, tensioner, water pump I asked what my wife would like to replace the Pilot with. An Audi Q5 was her reply but then said she likes her Pilot just fine and under no circumstances should I trade it or else !! I am impressed by how well it is holding up and still drives nicely. A minor emergency tonight. Though the battery tested out ok about 2 months ago, it failed suddenly this evening at my daughter's high school. No warning at all. I drove it yesterday and it started normally. An SOS call from the wife, luckily I was 15 minutes away and had jumper cables. We switched vehicles and I was able to get the battery replaced at 6:30 pm. It is an Interstate battery which I paid too much for, but had little choice given the circumstances. Hopefully no more surprises for a while. 108k

stickguy

if that was the OEM Honda battery, you did real good. My RDX just went, and that was a 2013 with only 42K on it (though with so many short hops, probably harder on the battery, plus colder temps).

dino001

suydam said:

The lease is $600 a month? Wow! What about buying a new one? What’s the trade in on your current Pilot? It does seem like it’s getting to be that time. A lot of repairs for a 7 year old vehicle.

$600 sounds about right. The MF at equivallent 5 percent is quite high, compared with 0.9% available. If he finances for 60 months at 0.9%, he should have decent equity after 3 years, even with zero down, so higher payment would give more flexibility in the future. Payments may be a bit higher, but this much, around $720-750, but considering rising rates, it may be worth it for the future. This is reason why I still haven’t found a lease I liked, when I shopped for my cars.

28firefighter

The Pilot has much stronger leases through some local credit unions. Better money factors and residuals. Problem is there are limited ones out there that do this, it’s not well advertised, and they sometimes have registration requirements. 

All of this discussion is making me think that, unless we look for one of the luxo SUVs that have subsidized leases, it’ll make more sense for us buy our big family hauler. 

suydam

@nyccarguy, sounds like you’re in the dilemma where you try to figure out whether to make the repairs and hope the vehicle is trouble free for another couple of years, or is this the beginning of the money pit. I’ve done both. I kept throwing $ at my daughter’s Camry because it was a pretty decent vehicle overall and repairs were cheaper than replacing it. On the other hand, I really didn’t want to sell the Vibe when I did because I knew we were moving within a year and I wanted to sell it just before we moved. But it had finally one expensive problem too many for me. And they had a Buick Encore on the lot at the right price so I let go of the Vibe. Which meant that when we moved, we sold the Accord instead, as we only wanted to drive 1 car cross country. So many scenarios to figure out! I can see a good case to be made either way.

isellhondas

My theory on car batteries is this. If it's five years old I replace it on MY terms rather than getting stuck somewhere. Oh, I know I could get another year or so out of it but I don't like getting stranded!

nyccarguy

Ideally, I'd like to cash out and use the $10K or so (hopefully) for home improvement projects.  It also doesn't mke sense to put $10K down on a car that holds its value well with 0.9% financing.  On the other hand, I really don't feel like making a $700 car payment right now.  I can afford it if I have to.

I looked into leasing through a credit union in NY with the help of @28firefighter.  The lease looked like it would have been about $470 per month which is a lot easier to swallow than almost $600, but residency restrictions apply.

28firefighter

@roadburner what are your thoughts on the 330e iPerformance?

pensfan83

28firefighter said:

All of this discussion is making me think that, unless we look for one of the luxo SUVs that have subsidized leases, it’ll make more sense for us buy our big family hauler. 

With the help of a trade in and a down payment we figure it will make the most sense to buy as well, particularly if we can pickup a 1 or 2 year old CPO luxury SUV with a 0% loan. It's hard to ignore some of those lease deals though, particularly when there's a lot of lease cash and/or dealer discounts on the table.

driver100

NYC; That is a dilemma most of us have faced before....do we make the big repair and hope there won't be another one soon to follow, or, do we put that repair money into a new car.

Few people consider that when they put money into their older car........it is still getting older and that makes the gap larger when you do eventually trade it in.

There isn't an exact answer that will work every time, but, from my observations, people who do the repairs usually don't come out ahead. That is especially true if they make a major repair, now have money invested, and come to a 2nd big repair....by then they have used up money that could have been put into a new car.

Just MHO.....I would look for a new car that comes in way under $600 if possible....consider KIA, Hyundai, Mazda whatever.......3 years of trouble free driving would be a big incentive to me. Just my 2 cents worth.

abacomike

Mr_Shiftright said:

abacomike said:

It was so warm (85 degrees) and very humid down here today I had to run The A/C in the condo.  It is supposed to be like this through Christmas. 

So you northerners might consider a quick trip down here for the holidays.  It was 80 degrees in Jacksonville - which is very warm for them this time of year.

Ok just send me your address and I'll be on the way. Hope you have enough spare rooms for all of us. 

Can I bring my pit bull?

Sorry, only “working” dogs allowed - but you are all more than welcome - just not all at once! 

tjc78

nyccarguy said:

Ideally, I'd like to cash out and use the $10K or so (hopefully) for home improvement projects.  It also doesn't mke sense to put $10K down on a car that holds its value well with 0.9% financing.  On the other hand, I really don't feel like making a $700 car payment right now.  I can afford it if I have to.

I looked into leasing through a credit union in NY with the help of @28firefighter.  The lease looked like it would have been about $470 per month which is a lot easier to swallow than almost $600, but residency restrictions apply.

It's a bit long in the tooth, but have you considered the outgoing Enclave? Mine was near 50K and all in with zero (not even first payment) I'm at 515 a month. That was swallowing 6 payments on my 2015 (OK, really 2 GM picked up the tab for the other 4).

It's huge inside and rides like a rolling bank vault. I'm sure there are plenty left.

imidazol97

abacomike said:

Sorry, only “working” dogs allowed - but you are all more than welcome - just not all at once! 

Will we need to rent a car or will yours be available? I'm sure I can figure out how to put it in DRIVE.

snakeweasel

driver100 said:

NYC; That is a dilemma most of us have faced before....do we make the big repair and hope there won't be another one soon to follow, or, do we put that repair money into a new car. Few people consider that when they put money into their older car........it is still getting older and that makes the gap larger when you do eventually trade it in. There isn't an exact answer that will work every time, but, from my observations, people who do the repairs usually don't come out ahead. That is especially true if they make a major repair, now have money invested, and come to a 2nd big repair....by then they have used up money that could have been put into a new car. Just MHO.....I would look for a new car that comes in way under $600 if possible....consider KIA, Hyundai, Mazda whatever.......3 years of trouble free driving would be a big incentive to me. Just my 2 cents worth.

On a car that has generally been worry free I would feel comfortable with a somewhat large repair bill. This would be based on the fact that the car is reliable and the repair should keep it going for a while longer. 

It comes to a choice of putting the money into a car I already own and have a year or two or more payment free driving or use the money as a down payment and start making monthly car payments again.

Now if the car is old and high mileage or it is nickel and dimeing me to death then that's a different story. 

oldfarmer50

nyccarguy said:

Ideally, I'd like to cash out and use the $10K or so (hopefully) for home improvement projects.  It also doesn't mke sense to put $10K down on a car that holds its value well with 0.9% financing.  On the other hand, I really don't feel like making a $700 car payment right now.  I can afford it if I have to.

I looked into leasing through a credit union in NY with the help of @28firefighter.  The lease looked like it would have been about $470 per month which is a lot easier to swallow than almost $600, but residency restrictions apply.

Put your Honda on CL for a thousand more than book value and then negotiate the flakes down to what it's actually worth. Hondas go for crazy money.

That grinding in the turns sounds live a CV joint.

ab348

snakeweasel said:

On a car that has generally been worry free I would feel comfortable with a somewhat large repair bill. This would be based on the fact that the car is reliable and the repair should keep it going for a while longer. 

It comes to a choice of putting the money into a car I already own and have a year or two or more payment free driving or use the money as a down payment and start making monthly car payments again.

Now if the car is old and high mileage or it is nickel and dimeing me to death then that's a different story. 

The difficulty is that sometimes a "good" vehicle quickly becomes one where everything starts to go wrong at a certain point and then it is no longer such a good vehicle. I'm not sure how you can predict that.

Economically it often makes little sense to buy new even if the existing vehicle needs a few thousands in repairs - after all that is only a few months payments on a new one. But at some point the mind starts to say "enough".

houdini1

oldfarmer50 said:

abacomike said:

qbrozen said:

nyccarguy said:

I'll second that!  As well as the state & local tax deduction!  My bill for the year is over $9,700

I just went and looked at the proposed changes (in rough format). http://www.businessinsider.com/tax-brackets-2018-trump-tax-plan-chart-house-senate-comparison-2017-11

The increase in standard deduction is not near enough to offset my mortgage interest deduction; however, our tax bracket is dropping 3% overall. I would THINK that would all work out to about a wash. BUT I'm looking at my last year's return and, for some reason, that overall tax the software calculated for me works out to 24.68%, while I was in the 28% bracket. So color me thoroughly confused. If i take the table at face value and compare to last year's return, I'd be paying about $6k more. $500/mo is not small change!

Since Social Security becomes fully taxable under the proposed plans, retired folks will be hurt quite a bit.  These tax plans are for the wealthy taxpayers and business and corporations. My taxes go up, not down after looking at the proposed bills, and my income is upper middle class for a single individual.  

My SS is taxed 85% as it is so unless you're in abject poverty ($30k or so) there's not much difference.

What I want to see is how Capital Gains will change. Right now, at my modest income level my Capital Gains are pretty much tax free unless I sell so much of my investments that it boosts my income way up. I'd hate to be paying 20% from dollar one.


OF, I don't think SS will be taxed at 100% under new plan, but we won't know for sure until we actually see what passes.

nyccarguy

snakeweasel said:

driver100 said:

NYC; That is a dilemma most of us have faced before....do we make the big repair and hope there won't be another one soon to follow, or, do we put that repair money into a new car.

Few people consider that when they put money into their older car........it is still getting older and that makes the gap larger when you do eventually trade it in.

There isn't an exact answer that will work every time, but, from my observations, people who do the repairs usually don't come out ahead. That is especially true if they make a major repair, now have money invested, and come to a 2nd big repair....by then they have used up money that could have been put into a new car.

Just MHO.....I would look for a new car that comes in way under $600 if possible....consider KIA, Hyundai, Mazda whatever.......3 years of trouble free driving would be a big incentive to me. Just my 2 cents worth.

On a car that has generally been worry free I would feel comfortable with a somewhat large repair bill. This would be based on the fact that the car is reliable and the repair should keep it going for a while longer. 

It comes to a choice of putting the money into a car I already own and have a year or two or more payment free driving or use the money as a down payment and start making monthly car payments again.

Now if the car is old and high mileage or it is nickel and dimeing me to death then that's a different story. 

Thanks for your input @snakeweasel. I do value your opinion. To answer your question, yes our Pilot has been worry free and very reliable. I have maintained it well and replaced anything that even seems to be wearing out. According to @qbrozen, our resident expert of used car values it is worth somewhere between $10,000 & $10,500 as a trade in (currently with 105,000 miles).

My original plan was to pay it off in 5 years and keep it for 10 years (or 150,000 miles). The 10 year mark is about 3 1/2 years away. In the next 4,000 miles or so, it is going to need about $2,700 in maintenance and repairs. I'm sure at some point it will need tires around the 120K mark ($1000). Probably front struts around there too. So right now I'm staring down the barrel of over $4,000 in repairs on a vehicle worth $10K and depreciating we put more miles on it. Then there is the "unknown." I don't think the transmission or transfer case is going to grenade anytime soon.

I think the easiest thing to do is put the $10K down and finance a new Pilot Touring AWD for 60 months at 0.9%. I'll be covered bumper to bumper for 36K miles and powertrain for 60K miles.

suydam

oldfarmer50 said:

nyccarguy said:

Ideally, I'd like to cash out and use the $10K or so (hopefully) for home improvement projects.  It also doesn't mke sense to put $10K down on a car that holds its value well with 0.9% financing.  On the other hand, I really don't feel like making a $700 car payment right now.  I can afford it if I have to.

I looked into leasing through a credit union in NY with the help of @28firefighter.  The lease looked like it would have been about $470 per month which is a lot easier to swallow than almost $600, but residency restrictions apply.

Put your Honda on CL for a thousand more than book value and then negotiate the flakes down to what it's actually worth. Hondas go for crazy money.

That grinding in the turns sounds live a CV joint.

To sell privately you’d have to fix it first to get any money more than a trade in. When it has expensive problems, you’re better off trading it in. Even better if they have something on the lot that you like. It’s a good time of year to get a deal too.

oldfarmer50

abacomike said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

snakeweasel said:

abacomike said:

It was so warm (85 degrees) and very humid down here today I had to run The A/C in the condo.  It is supposed to be like this through Christmas. 

So you northerners might consider a quick trip down here for the holidays.  It was 80 degrees in Jacksonville - which is very warm for them this time of year.

Ok just send me your address and I'll be on the way. Hope you have enough spare rooms for all of us. 

Can I bring my pit bull?

Sorry, only “working” dogs allowed - but you are all more than welcome - just not all at once! 

Can I bring my comfort cat?

My in laws just took off for Orlando. Not sure if they made it with the snafu in Atlanta.

roadburner

28firefighter said:

@roadburner what are your thoughts on the 330e iPerformance?

I really like it; it's reasonably quick and can return north of 50 mpg depending on your average commute, driving conditions, and how often you plug it in. One of our sales advisors was leasing one for his wife and it was averaging 49 mpg. I delivered virtually all of the iPerformance(PHEV) vehicles at my store so shoot me any other questions you have!

nyccarguy

oldfarmer50 said:

nyccarguy said:

Ideally, I'd like to cash out and use the $10K or so (hopefully) for home improvement projects.  It also doesn't mke sense to put $10K down on a car that holds its value well with 0.9% financing.  On the other hand, I really don't feel like making a $700 car payment right now.  I can afford it if I have to.

I looked into leasing through a credit union in NY with the help of @28firefighter.  The lease looked like it would have been about $470 per month which is a lot easier to swallow than almost $600, but residency restrictions apply.

Put your Honda on CL for a thousand more than book value and then negotiate the flakes down to what it's actually worth. Hondas go for crazy money.

That grinding in the turns sounds live a CV joint.

I don't think Honda sells the CV Joints separately. The Good Year place that just replaced the alternator told me that I'd have to replace the whole axle. The Pilot has 101K miles, not 105K miles. I don't want to fix the axle, then try and sell it with the condition that it is going to NEED spark plugs, a water pump, timing belt, & tensioner in 4,000 miles. I'd rather trade it in.

tjc78

nyccarguy said:

oldfarmer50 said:

nyccarguy said:

Ideally, I'd like to cash out and use the $10K or so (hopefully) for home improvement projects.  It also doesn't mke sense to put $10K down on a car that holds its value well with 0.9% financing.  On the other hand, I really don't feel like making a $700 car payment right now.  I can afford it if I have to.

I looked into leasing through a credit union in NY with the help of @28firefighter.  The lease looked like it would have been about $470 per month which is a lot easier to swallow than almost $600, but residency restrictions apply.

Put your Honda on CL for a thousand more than book value and then negotiate the flakes down to what it's actually worth. Hondas go for crazy money.

That grinding in the turns sounds live a CV joint.

I don't think Honda sells the CV Joints separately. The Good Year place that just replaced the alternator told me that I'd have to replace the whole axle. The Pilot has 101K miles, not 105K miles. I don't want to fix the axle, then try and sell it with the condition that it is going to NEED spark plugs, a water pump, timing belt, & tensioner in 4,000 miles. I'd rather trade it in.

I was in the exact same scenario with my Grand Marquis... it was a great running car but needed about the same level of work you describe (all maintenance items)

Front and rear Brakes
Spark Plugs
Transmission Service
Tires all around

I just figured it was time to parts ways. It served me well, but I didn't want to put any more money into it. I cashed out and did a cheap lease.

snakeweasel

nyccarguy said:

driver100 said:

NYC; That is a dilemma most of us have faced before....do we make the big repair and hope there won't be another one soon to follow, or, do we put that repair money into a new car. Few people consider that when they put money into their older car........it is still getting older and that makes the gap larger when you do eventually trade it in. There isn't an exact answer that will work every time, but, from my observations, people who do the repairs usually don't come out ahead. That is especially true if they make a major repair, now have money invested, and come to a 2nd big repair....by then they have used up money that could have been put into a new car. Just MHO.....I would look for a new car that comes in way under $600 if possible....consider KIA, Hyundai, Mazda whatever.......3 years of trouble free driving would be a big incentive to me. Just my 2 cents worth.

On a car that has generally been worry free I would feel comfortable with a somewhat large repair bill. This would be based on the fact that the car is reliable and the repair should keep it going for a while longer. 

It comes to a choice of putting the money into a car I already own and have a year or two or more payment free driving or use the money as a down payment and start making monthly car payments again.

Now if the car is old and high mileage or it is nickel and dimeing me to death then that's a different story. 

Thanks for your input @snakeweasel. I do value your opinion. To answer your question, yes our Pilot has been worry free and very reliable. I have maintained it well and replaced anything that even seems to be wearing out. According to @qbrozen, our resident expert of used car values it is worth somewhere between $10,000 & $10,500 as a trade in (currently with 105,000 miles). My original plan was to pay it off in 5 years and keep it for 10 years (or 150,000 miles). The 10 year mark is about 3 1/2 years away. In the next 4,000 miles or so, it is going to need about $2,700 in maintenance and repairs. I'm sure at some point it will need tires around the 120K mark ($1000). Probably front struts around there too. So right now I'm staring down the barrel of over $4,000 in repairs on a vehicle worth $10K and depreciating we put more miles on it. Then there is the "unknown." I don't think the transmission or transfer case is going to grenade anytime soon. I think the easiest thing to do is put the $10K down and finance a new Pilot Touring AWD for 60 months at 0.9%. I'll be covered bumper to bumper for 36K miles and powertrain for 60K miles.

Many years ago we had a 90somethimg Saturn that was pushing 200K miles. This car was starting to worry me when I found out I needed a couple grand in repairs. Since it was so old and high mileage we dumped that very fast. 

Now with the Chrysler bring 10 years old with just under 125K miles anything short of a complete drive train failure would get repaired. 

oldfarmer50

This is the car I wanted more than a Mustang back in the day. Is that a fair price? 23k miles sounds hard to believe.



https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/1968-mercury-cougar-xr7-gt/6396065044.html

stickguy

nice looking Cougar. If legit as described, seems like a good deal. But I always hated the Ford 2 spoke steering wheel, and the AT handle and console box I can't stand either. Get a 3 spoke shelby wheel and a 4 speed stick in there, and then we got something!

driver100

abacomike said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

snakeweasel said:

abacomike said:

It was so warm (85 degrees) and very humid down here today I had to run The A/C in the condo.  It is supposed to be like this through Christmas. 

So you northerners might consider a quick trip down here for the holidays.  It was 80 degrees in Jacksonville - which is very warm for them this time of year.

Ok just send me your address and I'll be on the way. Hope you have enough spare rooms for all of us. 

Can I bring my pit bull?

Sorry, only “working” dogs allowed - but you are all more than welcome - just not all at once! 

Does it include a free breakfast in the morning?

stickguy

my thoughts on the keep/dump dilemma, it depends on what you need it for. If it is my car, that is mostly local running around, I can live with a higher miles but clean car. But, for the family truckster, I don't have the same tolerance. That is the one that I have to fee comfortable packing up to the gills, and driving a long way often at night or lousy weather. That one I want a bit newer and lower miles.

The Pilot is right in that gray area. If it was the 2nd car, getting maybe 5K miles a year locally, keep it. But since that is the one that gets stuffed every summer for a lap around the south, might be better off just getting the new one now. Even if, on spreadsheet, it makes less sense financially.

buying vs. leasing? Always a debate, but in this case, sounds like they prefer to have something to keep long term. So, either buy the Pilot for the duration, or lease something heavily subsidized (Enclave, Santa Fe, Pathfinder, whatever has the room needed and best deal).

stickguy

rolling in the VW I almost leased last month. Got a 2017 SE loaner while the sport is in for service. Actually a really nice car. Surprisingly quick with the 1.4T. Roomy and comfy. Pretty well loaded. Definitely a good deal. I would have been fine with one I guess on a cheap lease. Just nothing exciting.

Since her car is in, my daughter has confiscated the Elantra. After driving around in it for a day, she said that she really likes it. Faster than the Jetta. Likes the steering better. Definitely a bit firmer ride (I noticed that too today, since I was driving the sport). Comparable cars, but very different feel.

if I end up wanting to flip in next summer, she seems more than happy to take it off my hands.

driver100

oldfarmer50 said:

This is the car I wanted more than a Mustang back in the day. Is that a fair price? 23k miles sounds hard to believe.



https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/1968-mercury-cougar-xr7-gt/6396065044.html

Love that car and it was a little nicer looking than it's Mustang sister. The only concern I have is the sentence "We believe this California Black Plate car to have just 23000 actual miles and it shows." I am more distrustful than I should be, according to my wife, but the words "we believe" are kind of weasel words which won't mean much in a court of law if you find out it has 230000 miles on it. Why can't they verify it? I bet they would keep records on a car like that.

btw....my wife got one of those emails from USPO that said there was a package at the post office that couldn't be delivered, we just had to open the pdf file and give them some information. It is nice to be trusting, but, these days you can't be.

jmonroe

oldfarmer50 said:

This is the car I wanted more than a Mustang back in the day. Is that a fair price? 23k miles sounds hard to believe.



https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/1968-mercury-cougar-xr7-gt/6396065044.html

Owner says, "We believe this California Black Plate car to have just 23000 actual miles and it shows", but how many miles do you believe it actually has?

Under the darkness of night, I can sell you Mrs. j's beloved 2012 Subie Legacy Limited 6 cyl., that just ticked over 30,600 miles yesterday, for $16,500 and I know that is the true mileage. I can also assure you that its original Ice Silver Metallic paint job shines at least as good as that repainted Grecian Gold Cougar.

Just give me some time to figure out how I can slip away for a few hours some night without Mrs. j knowing I've gone off to sell her car.

jmonroe

qbrozen

I don't blame them for their "claim" of the miles. I would never make a definitive claim if I had not witnessed it firsthand or had very consistent records from new. I doubt they have either.

If it is all they say it is, seems too cheap. They are describing a #3+ car at the price of a #4.

28firefighter

roadburner said:

28firefighter said:

@roadburner what are your thoughts on the 330e iPerformance?

I really like it; it's reasonably quick and can return north of 50 mpg depending on your average commute, driving conditions, and how often you plug it in. One of our sales advisors was leasing one for his wife and it was averaging 49 mpg. I delivered virtually all of the iPerformance(PHEV) vehicles at my store so shoot me any other questions you have!

I may have an opportunity to lease a former loaner very very cheap - stupidly cheap - on a 24 month lease. Since I work from home now, the 14 mile plug-in range is perfect because that covers most of my daily errands.

Curious about the trunk space though and whether it could fit a stroller in the back with some gear.

fintail

5 digit odometer, 50 year old car apparently with no mileage-related documents - you'll never prove it at 23K or 123K or 223K.

I am a little concerned about a low mileage car needing paint, as people love original surfaces these days. If it had sun damage, I would expect the interior to be likewise, maybe they have both been replaced.

abacomike

driver100 said:

Mr_Shiftright said:

abacomike said:

It was so warm (85 degrees) and very humid down here today I had to run The A/C in the condo.  It is supposed to be like this through Christmas. 

So you northerners might consider a quick trip down here for the holidays.  It was 80 degrees in Jacksonville - which is very warm for them this time of year.

Ok just send me your address and I'll be on the way. Hope you have enough spare rooms for all of us. 

Can I bring my pit bull?

Sorry, only “working” dogs allowed - but you are all more than welcome - just not all at once! 

Does it include a free breakfast in the morning?

Always! 

oldfarmer50

fintail said:

5 digit odometer, 50 year old car apparently with no mileage-related documents - you'll never prove it at 23K or 123K or 223K.

I am a little concerned about a low mileage car needing paint, as people love original surfaces these days. If it had sun damage, I would expect the interior to be likewise, maybe they have both been replaced.

Yeah, the milage is the thing that sends up flags for me too.

I guy I worked with bought a 65 T-bird with listed low mileage and it ran good so he didn't even test drive. First time he changed the oil he discovered it had been filled with motor honey and now smoked like a California wild fire. Had to have the engine rebuilt.

Mr_Shiftright

oldfarmer50 said:

This is the car I wanted more than a Mustang back in the day. Is that a fair price? 23k miles sounds hard to believe.



https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/1968-mercury-cougar-xr7-gt/6396065044.html

Actually for a GT with the Marauder 390/325HP option, and in apparently very nice shape, I'd say a hell of a bargain there at that price. There's another $5K in the car if it's as advertised.

driver100

Is this the same one.....it is advertised at $59900!


1968 Mercury Cougar

stickguy

certainly seems to be. so, OF found another CL scam? I need to stay off of there if I ever want another used car!

and based on Shifty's comment, low 20's would be all da monet. So I am guessing that $60K is just a tad out of line.

driver100

I like a more original look...........

stickguy

I prefer this style.

Mr_Shiftright

stickguy said:

certainly seems to be. so, OF found another CL scam? I need to stay off of there if I ever want another used car!

and based on Shifty's comment, low 20's would be all da monet. So I am guessing that $60K is just a tad out of line.

Oh great, so we went from low end ridiculous to high end ridiculous. I suppose if that Cougar were really minty we could look at $30K.

$59K? Seller should get ready to sing Happy Birthday to it every year. Maybe he thinks it's a GT-E? (428 cid).

oldfarmer50

driver100 said:

Is this the same one.....it is advertised at $59900!


1968 Mercury Cougar

Yep, looks like a scam. The one you found is down on Long Island not Albany. The CL ad has no phone number either which is suspisious.

Well I'd still like one, just not that one, especially for $60k.

tbirdmarco

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iq8IRBNb8kc