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Of course, a simple push button would be better. My first car, a 1949 Chevrolet, had a push button for the starter. Everything goes in circles!
High rates. Transparency. I set up the ability to transfer in and out of my checking account. So to move money I move from savings to checking and then set up a withdrawal to Ally.
Phone calls to them? Answered quickly by knowledgeable people.
A couple of things about setting up a new account to open another CD are strange: it's actually like opening an additional account but my info is already there as soon as it's started.
My local national/regional bank that I've used for a long time had a paltry savings rate through the previous malais administration with artificially low interest rates which made the interest on the national debt lower than it should have been and looking better. But kept earnings on the liquid part of a portfolio woefully low. Ally was always worth the move. The other option was the stock market which was bouyed up only by the ultra low interest. But it was productive to move cash equivalents to Ally.
I'm looking for an additional online bank, so I'm open to what others are finding here.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Be that as it may, one may have inadvertently made the right decision, by NOT getting hired.
Another one is coming due in a couple of months at Santander, so we will see how that goes.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Short answers !
EXAMPLE: (15 MY old, @ $12.3k) 2004 Honda Civic, sold CHEAP for a X country move @ $4K. (aka., cash money) 2018, 250,000 miles (16,700 miles per yr.)
= $.0332 per mile driven: DEPRECIATION/ownership.
-$553.yr /-$46.11 mo. ownership.
So why would you want to pay the above, when you can easily lease/pay $2,844 yr,/$237 a mo, or $42,660 ?🤑
OCI’s @ 20,000 miles.
One thing in your favor is that there is a good market for family size CUV's.
You could the post the details over on RWTINV and someone (Q
I was lucky to drift into a job secondary to farming that provided a pension and ultimately health insurance. Now between that pension, social security and my retirement job I make more than I ever did working full time+++.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Anymore, one of the/more important reasons to work to owning one’s own business/es is/are (multiple) employer health care.
As a trade in your car is probably worthless to the dealer (at least that’s what they’ll say) but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have value. Particularly a Honda which sometimes brings prices that are mythical.
For example here’s what a search on CL came up with.
https://nh.craigslist.org/ctd/d/manchester-2010-honda-pilot-ex-w-dvd/6864445692.html
There were many more with higher miles for not much less.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
USED car sales were app 39.2 M + per yr.
The way I see it, the very best 2/3rds of it's life is over...you are paying for the last third which is going to be by far....the worst third.......and that is if you are lucky and it holds up.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/d/lawrence-2010-honda-pilot/6859211116.html
I wouldn’t pay those prices but that’s just me.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Personally, I like to bail out while the car is still running well and I can get my money out of it. I don't think you save that much trying to get another year out of it if you run into repairs....I would rather avoid the hassle. Totally a personal choice.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
I can't explain it.....I don't know how this happened and why I have the key and not the chain part that had the war amps key return tag on it.
It was in a drawer where I keep my receipts. All I can think of is I was in a rush, I did have some receipts I threw in the drawer, I must have put the key in the drawer at the same time.
My birthday is coming up, maybe I will ask for one of those GPS key finders.
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
2017 MB E400 , 2015 MB GLK350, 2014 MB C250
Rates have remained about the same over the past 3 months and in some cases rates have dropped a little.
But I have to remain conservative now - no more stock markets for me.
2024 Genesis G90 Super-Charger
An unintended major repair has to be considered but I thought Hondas could go farther without that happening. Depends on your risk tolerance. On one end you have driver100 who gets night sweats once the warranty expires...on the other you have me who is willing to roll the dice as long as all the wheels are still attached.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Rates have remained about the same over the past 3 months and in some cases rates have dropped a little.
But I have to remain conservative now - no more stock markets for me.
How about bonds? MLPs? Munis?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
PS - firms like Vanguard offer some very good funds mixing conservative dividend paying stocks with corporate bonds that generally pay better interest rates than government bonds. However, all bonds can gain or lose principal value (price you paid for the bond) inversely to rates. e.g. if interest rates go up, bond principal will go down and vice versa. If you decide to get into bonds, learn about "duration" to better understand this.
I have signed up for my company’s stock purchase program. It is a very strong one. No restrictions on selling, and it went up something like 30% in the first quarter this year. So when my purchas went through at the end of the quarter, I got that Jan 1 price along with an additional 10% discount. Not bad.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I dabbled in individual stocks and found it wasn’t for me since you can’t really expect good information from brokers (think used car salesman) and I didn’t have the inclination to spend hours and hours in research myself.
Now I have everything in a plethora of Vanguard funds which gives me some nice dividends and capital appreciation over the long term which keep up or beat inflation.
Since 2009 I’ve averaged 10% a year. Enough for me.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
That is, those who are relatively well off, ($1 to $5 million net worth) but don't feel like or live like a millionaire. Oh well, middle class millionaires get no respect especially those of us chasing CD rates.
If I had a $600 unscheduled maintenance bill on a Honda Pilot with 136,000 miles, I’d pretty close to demand they cover it, warranty or NOT.
Your 2nd paragraph can be better, easily seen by CPMD: aka., $cost per mile driven.
I used a 2004 Honda Civic @ $ .0332 CPMD: depreciation. With NO $ figures, unnecessary fear, negative doubt & lack of precision are spread.
I would be beyond rapacious if I let a daughter go to doctoral studies/ school, 2,600 miles away with an unreliable & non durable car, even with 250,000 miles. Was/is this car durable and reliable? You be the judge.
What an event to witness. I am proud of him!
Go Tiger!
2024 Genesis G90 Super-Charger
I ran the financial calculators (before each of two kids were born, years ago obviously) & decided on Vanguard Index 500 (15.9 % over 10 years +) as one option. By itself, the yields paid for eachs’ choices of universities, both under/graduate studies. One daughters’ company paid for her industry driven MBA. The other received an undergraduate stipend.
One can Google their own calculators, if they don’t like this one.
http://www.financialcalculator.org/investing/interest-calculator
I'll second the Vanguard recommendations. Low fees, many sound options to choose from, I put some rainy day money in there a while back, not high risk funds, and have still done well, well at least if one doesn't compare it to housing, healthcare, and tuition etc inflation.
The Honda’s numbers have been since long in the history book. Honda’s consumables are really nothing over the European’s.
Given my "retirement" last year, I've been sorting things out since, and this year I'm going to take the whole Fidelity fund and move it to Vanguard, along with getting rid of every cent of Honeywell stock.
Not that I'm not bitter. . .much.