Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

ab348

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

28firefighter

I don’t mess with springs under tension. I had someone out to replace it.

My opener is also on the way out so I’ll need to deal with that this week.

jmonroe1

ab348 said:

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

————————————————
OK, just for you.

You said one spring so that tells me you have the older design with a spring above each side rail. Those are easy to replace. Just leave the door in the UP position and use the good spring as a guide for how to replace the broken one. Then CLOSE the door to see if it works.

Then put the door back in the UP position and replace the good spring. It’s a good idea to change in pairs because the one that didn’t break is well on its way.

You’ll save money and by the time you called “the guy” and he gets there you’ll be on your second 6 pack.

When the door is in the UP position there is very little tension on the spring. I doubt you’d have to pull the spring more than 8 inches, which is very easy to do, to get the S hook off of the metal link attached to the wire rope on the spring that’s not broken.

In the time it takes to explain this you could be done.

Again, when replacing side springs make sure the door is in the UP position.

jmonroe

laurasdada

Condolences to the @carnaught family.
Our beloved mutt (LabraHound; Bassador) turned 14 recently, actual birthdate unknown but he adopted us in 2010 when he was estimated to be one.
He still gets walks of 1-3+ miles a day and that still isn't enough for him.

roadburner

laurasdada said:

Condolences to the @carnaught family.
Our beloved mutt (LabraHound; Bassador) turned 14 recently, actual birthdate unknown but he adopted us in 2010 when he was estimated to be one.
He still gets walks of 1-3+ miles a day and that still isn't enough for him.

Our dog is a 12 year old Australian Shepherd/Border Collie mix (verified by an Embark DNA test). People ask if he's a puppy became he is so active. He's killed several groundhogs and raccoons and continually chases any deer he encounters. We walked around the farm today for a couple of hours and he easily covered triple the distance that we walked. He doesn't slow down until around 10:00 pm.

laurasdada

If more people were dogs, the world would be a better place.

dino001

abacomike said:

Just received notice in the form of a certified letter that my HOA monthly fees are going up from $582 a month to $710 a month. I almost excreted a brick from my derriere. Last year, they went up from $500 to $582 a month. According to the rationale provided by the Condo Association, it is due to the Florida Law that now requires a minimum reserve for buildings 3 stories high or higher. Additionally, the insurance for each of the buildings increased 70% over the previous year - all due to the collapse of that condo on the oceanfront in Dania Beach two years ago. It also applies to buildings that are 30 years old or older.

From what I heard and read you may consider yourself lucky it's "only" 22 percent. There are cases, where HOA fees go up by multiples of the previous amounts (insurance and reserves PLUS immediate assessments). Basically people end up getting another mortgage overnight. I heard of thousands of dollars per month. This is an unfortunate result of decades of allowing condo associations to stick their heads into the sand and ignore real future costs by "deferring" reserves. This had to eventually end in tears (nobody will face reality of costs unless they are forced to), and Surfside calamity was the trigger. Add lack of effective building safety oversight, ability to "shop" for engineering opinions regarding required repairs and maintenance, etc. and there was obvious expiration date set at about 40-50 years from the first big condo boom in Florida of 70s.

It is also just about time when first insurance price increases finally pass through the state reviews (it takes some time to get them approved) after digesting the Surfside collapse by them. It is not exaggeration to say that if things continue this way parts of Florida may quickly approach New York City in terms of cost of living and the migration trend may actually reverse and flow into other states (Texas, No./So. Carolina, Georgia, etc), which have 30-40 years ahead of them before Florida's problems will show up. But our governor clearly has more important thing to do, like using power of his legislature to save our souls from eternal woke damnation. We clearly need that much more than keeping our homes...

venture

jmonroe1 said:

ab348 said:

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

————————————————
OK, just for you.

You said one spring so that tells me you have the older design with a spring above each side rail. Those are easy to replace. Just leave the door in the UP position and use the good spring as a guide for how to replace the broken one. Then CLOSE the door to see if it works.

Then put the door back in the UP position and replace the good spring. It’s a good idea to change in pairs because the one that didn’t break is well on its way.

You’ll save money and by the time you called “the guy” and he gets there you’ll be on your second 6 pack.

When the door is in the UP position there is very little tension on the spring. I doubt you’d have to pull the spring more than 8 inches, which is very easy to do, to get the S hook off of the metal link attached to the wire rope on the spring that’s not broken.

In the time it takes to explain this you could be done.

Again, when replacing side springs make sure the door is in the UP position.

jmonroe

I have had one spring break, but mine is the torsion bar above the header. There is a spring on each side.

jmonroe1

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

ab348 said:

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

————————————————
OK, just for you.

You said one spring so that tells me you have the older design with a spring above each side rail. Those are easy to replace. Just leave the door in the UP position and use the good spring as a guide for how to replace the broken one. Then CLOSE the door to see if it works.

Then put the door back in the UP position and replace the good spring. It’s a good idea to change in pairs because the one that didn’t break is well on its way.

You’ll save money and by the time you called “the guy” and he gets there you’ll be on your second 6 pack.

When the door is in the UP position there is very little tension on the spring. I doubt you’d have to pull the spring more than 8 inches, which is very easy to do, to get the S hook off of the metal link attached to the wire rope on the spring that’s not broken.

In the time it takes to explain this you could be done.

Again, when replacing side springs make sure the door is in the UP position.

jmonroe

I have had one spring break, but mine is the torsion bar above the header. There is a spring on each side.

————————————————
I never saw that type of installation before. Do you have a door that’s very heavy? It would be interesting to see if the door would still work if the torsion spring broke while the two side springs were still good.

jmonroe

imidazol97

venture

jmonroe1 said:

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

ab348 said:

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

————————————————
OK, just for you.

You said one spring so that tells me you have the older design with a spring above each side rail. Those are easy to replace. Just leave the door in the UP position and use the good spring as a guide for how to replace the broken one. Then CLOSE the door to see if it works.

Then put the door back in the UP position and replace the good spring. It’s a good idea to change in pairs because the one that didn’t break is well on its way.

You’ll save money and by the time you called “the guy” and he gets there you’ll be on your second 6 pack.

When the door is in the UP position there is very little tension on the spring. I doubt you’d have to pull the spring more than 8 inches, which is very easy to do, to get the S hook off of the metal link attached to the wire rope on the spring that’s not broken.

In the time it takes to explain this you could be done.

Again, when replacing side springs make sure the door is in the UP position.

jmonroe

I have had one spring break, but mine is the torsion bar above the header. There is a spring on each side.

————————————————
I never saw that type of installation before. Do you have a door that’s very heavy? It would be interesting to see if the door would still work if the torsion spring broke while the two side springs were still good.

jmonroe

No side springs. It's as shown in imidazol97's diagram. Door is not very heavy. When one breaks it's hard to open. I don't know if the other one interferes or not. I just call the guy.

They are very careful when they replace one. They stick a rod in a hole and turn the spring so many times. They put a chalk mark on it and wind it up. I don't know all the details. They always come and look at it and go back to the shop to get what they need. I assume there are different strength springs. I imagine if it let loose it would do a job on you.

andres3

dino001 said:

abacomike said:

Just received notice in the form of a certified letter that my HOA monthly fees are going up from $582 a month to $710 a month. I almost excreted a brick from my derriere. Last year, they went up from $500 to $582 a month. According to the rationale provided by the Condo Association, it is due to the Florida Law that now requires a minimum reserve for buildings 3 stories high or higher. Additionally, the insurance for each of the buildings increased 70% over the previous year - all due to the collapse of that condo on the oceanfront in Dania Beach two years ago. It also applies to buildings that are 30 years old or older.

From what I heard and read you may consider yourself lucky it's "only" 22 percent. There are cases, where HOA fees go up by multiples of the previous amounts (insurance and reserves PLUS immediate assessments). Basically people end up getting another mortgage overnight. I heard of thousands of dollars per month. This is an unfortunate result of decades of allowing condo associations to stick their heads into the sand and ignore real future costs by "deferring" reserves. This had to eventually end in tears (nobody will face reality of costs unless they are forced to), and Surfside calamity was the trigger. Add lack of effective building safety oversight, ability to "shop" for engineering opinions regarding required repairs and maintenance, etc. and there was obvious expiration date set at about 40-50 years from the first big condo boom in Florida of 70s.

It is also just about time when first insurance price increases finally pass through the state reviews (it takes some time to get them approved) after digesting the Surfside collapse by them. It is not exaggeration to say that if things continue this way parts of Florida may quickly approach New York City in terms of cost of living and the migration trend may actually reverse and flow into other states (Texas, No./So. Carolina, Georgia, etc), which have 30-40 years ahead of them before Florida's problems will show up. But our governor clearly has more important thing to do, like using power of his legislature to save our souls from eternal woke damnation. We clearly need that much more than keeping our homes...

I had a condo previous to my home and it was only 11 units, but I was on the 3-person board. Responsibly managed, like by someone like me, HOA dues were increased ahead of time before the proverbial crap hits the fan. It's not like I was speculating about the future, the writing was clearly on the wall that our reserves were not enough, and if you don't take some pain now, you'll have a lot more pain later.

If I was ever in the market for a condo, the reserves account is one of the first things I'd look at after the current monthly dues. I believe CA has a law that you can't increase the dues more than 20% per year, but of course, the way around that is a "Special Assessment."

imidazol97

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

ab348 said:

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

————————————————
OK, just for you.

You said one spring so that tells me you have the older design with a spring above each side rail. Those are easy to replace. Just leave the door in the UP position and use the good spring as a guide for how to replace the broken one. Then CLOSE the door to see if it works.

Then put the door back in the UP position and replace the good spring. It’s a good idea to change in pairs because the one that didn’t break is well on its way.

You’ll save money and by the time you called “the guy” and he gets there you’ll be on your second 6 pack.

When the door is in the UP position there is very little tension on the spring. I doubt you’d have to pull the spring more than 8 inches, which is very easy to do, to get the S hook off of the metal link attached to the wire rope on the spring that’s not broken.

In the time it takes to explain this you could be done.

Again, when replacing side springs make sure the door is in the UP position.

jmonroe

I have had one spring break, but mine is the torsion bar above the header. There is a spring on each side.

————————————————
I never saw that type of installation before. Do you have a door that’s very heavy? It would be interesting to see if the door would still work if the torsion spring broke while the two side springs were still good.

jmonroe

No side springs. It's as shown in imidazol97's diagram. Door is not very heavy. When one breaks it's hard to open. I don't know if the other one interferes or not. I just call the guy.

They are very careful when they replace one. They stick a rod in a hole and turn the spring so many times. They put a chalk mark on it and wind it up. I don't know all the details. They always come and look at it and go back to the shop to get what they need. I assume there are different strength springs. I imagine if it let loose it would do a job on you.

One of my axial springs broke last summer. Luckily the Cruze was outside when it happened. My door is insulated double layer aluminum. Too heavy to lift with onlyl one spring assisting. The guy replacing the spring(s) did it without ever lifting the door, even with my Malibu only a few inches from the door. AND he talked on the phone to another tech that he apparently was mentoring or helping with some other kind of installation. The same company did the replacement of our 72 inch swinging patio doors.

Also lucky is that our 2.5 car garage has a regular access door to the side of the garage, so tech could go in and out easily as he worked. Otherwise he would have had to tramp through the house to get to the garage.

I replaced both springs. It's like bending a paper clip repeatedly to break it when these spring wind tight and relax. If one broke, the other will break as soon as the tech leaves the driveway if I only replaced one spring! Lol.

jmonroe1

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

venture said:

jmonroe1 said:

ab348 said:

JM, maybe re-edit that post to get rid of the error and clarify your instructions. If it was me that needed to do the job I’d be confused.

————————————————
OK, just for you.

You said one spring so that tells me you have the older design with a spring above each side rail. Those are easy to replace. Just leave the door in the UP position and use the good spring as a guide for how to replace the broken one. Then CLOSE the door to see if it works.

Then put the door back in the UP position and replace the good spring. It’s a good idea to change in pairs because the one that didn’t break is well on its way.

You’ll save money and by the time you called “the guy” and he gets there you’ll be on your second 6 pack.

When the door is in the UP position there is very little tension on the spring. I doubt you’d have to pull the spring more than 8 inches, which is very easy to do, to get the S hook off of the metal link attached to the wire rope on the spring that’s not broken.

In the time it takes to explain this you could be done.

Again, when replacing side springs make sure the door is in the UP position.

jmonroe

I have had one spring break, but mine is the torsion bar above the header. There is a spring on each side.

————————————————
I never saw that type of installation before. Do you have a door that’s very heavy? It would be interesting to see if the door would still work if the torsion spring broke while the two side springs were still good.

jmonroe

No side springs. It's as shown in imidazol97's diagram. Door is not very heavy. When one breaks it's hard to open. I don't know if the other one interferes or not. I just call the guy.

They are very careful when they replace one. They stick a rod in a hole and turn the spring so many times. They put a chalk mark on it and wind it up. I don't know all the details. They always come and look at it and go back to the shop to get what they need. I assume there are different strength springs. I imagine if it let loose it would do a job on you.

————————————————
That looks like the standard installation for a torsion spring operated garage door.

I have a double door too and the spring on mine is about 3 inches in diameter and the pipe is about 1 inch in diameter.

There are different strength springs and the colored line on the spring designates the spring strength.

When the spring breaks the pipe contains the spring. Which as I understand it is better than relying on a 1/8 inch wire rope that passes through the center of the springs on the side mounted spring design.

The disadvantage of the torsion spring design is when the spring breaks. Most people ain’t gonna mess with that sucker whereas side springs are a piece of cake to replace.

jmonroe

28firefighter

Mine look like what are pictured above.

And of course our opener failed this morning - I'm sure that's no coincidence.

stickguy

I need to ask what the new house will have. Hopefully the torsion springs. That is going to be an 18’ single door so I assume plenty heavy! Need to also make sure they get. Heavy duty enough opener.

ab348

My buddy who moved up country built a lavish garage for his car collection and ceiling- mount belt drive door openers just wouldn’t do. His are mounted on the wall next to or above the door itself and it seems to roll the door up and down directly somehow.

imidazol97

What I'd like is the opener that sits on the end of the torsion rod on the wall adjacent to the door tracks.

I put on torsion springs two changes ago. It's very simple when you consider the laws of physics. I had two
steel rods that fit into the holes on the flanges at the end of each spring. You loosen the nut that holds it to the rod. You start twisting the spring using one steel rod and then the other. Always be careful not to stand in front of where the steel rod would be thrown if you slipped in your process. Very simple. LOL

BTW the last two times I called "THE GUY" and let him do it. That was about 5 or7 years ago and then last summer.

It's so easy, your wife can do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2udM-E2kxNA

ab348

imidazol97 said:

What I'd like is the opener that sits on the end of the torsion rod on the wall adjacent to the door tracks.

Yes, that what my countrified friend has.

stickguy

I have seen that. Makes a lot of sense. The bar that the springs turn fits into the opener, like an axle going into a differential. No belt or chain.

venture

stickguy said:

I need to ask what the new house will have. Hopefully the torsion springs. That is going to be an 18’ single door so I assume plenty heavy! Need to also make sure they get. Heavy duty enough opener.

If the spring is right, you don't need a powerful opener. I said that to the owner of our local Overhead Door company and he said, "Most people don't know that".

venture

imidazol97 said:

What I'd like is the opener that sits on the end of the torsion rod on the wall adjacent to the door tracks.

I put on torsion springs two changes ago. It's very simple when you consider the laws of physics. I had two
steel rods that fit into the holes on the flanges at the end of each spring. You loosen the nut that holds it to the rod. You start twisting the spring using one steel rod and then the other. Always be careful not to stand in front of where the steel rod would be thrown if you slipped in your process. Very simple. LOL

BTW the last two times I called "THE GUY" and let him do it. That was about 5 or7 years ago and then last summer.

It's so easy, your wife can do it.

It's much nicer to watch than to do it.

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

I have seen that. Makes a lot of sense. The bar that the springs turn fits into the opener, like an axle going into a differential. No belt or chain.

————————————————
I’m pretty sure I saw that type of garage door opener when @breld showed some pics of his 6 car garage a good while back after he moved in. Ask him to get you a few close ups and while you’re at it ask him how he likes it.

I don’t know anyone with that type of installation nor how much they cost.

jmonroe

stickguy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X9AU8CLcnU&pp=ygUdd2FsbCBtb3VudCBnYXJhZ2UgZG9vciBvcGVuZXI%3D

jmonroe1

venture said:

imidazol97 said:

What I'd like is the opener that sits on the end of the torsion rod on the wall adjacent to the door tracks.

I put on torsion springs two changes ago. It's very simple when you consider the laws of physics. I had two
steel rods that fit into the holes on the flanges at the end of each spring. You loosen the nut that holds it to the rod. You start twisting the spring using one steel rod and then the other. Always be careful not to stand in front of where the steel rod would be thrown if you slipped in your process. Very simple. LOL

BTW the last two times I called "THE GUY" and let him do it. That was about 5 or7 years ago and then last summer.

It's so easy, your wife can do it.

It's much nicer to watch than to do it.

————————————————
I can’t get over (really I don’t believe it) that one of the subsequent videos showed a guy installing 2 torsion springs that he charged $1165.xx but then he gives a 10% discount. Whoopy, I don’t think I paid that much for my new double door installation about 10 years ago. The guy is actually a salesman trying to get you to sign up for his garage door training program so you can make a couple million dollars a year doing garage door repairs, yeah right.

In a way that’s kind of clever because I never saw a video do that before.

jmonroe

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X9AU8CLcnU&pp=ygUdd2FsbCBtb3VudCBnYXJhZ2UgZG9vciBvcGVuZXI%3D

————————————————
I don’t get all the hype about how quiet a garage door opener is. I care less about how quiet a garage door is than I do about how quiet my dishwasher is. But if that’s your thing go for it. Frankly, I want to know when my garage door is moving.

jmonroe

stickguy

it does make a difference when your bedroom is over the garage! But yeah, if the garage is off by itself, not a big deal.

tjc78

Our bedroom is above and behind the garage and you can hear it loud and clear.

stickguy

one good thing about that. In a few years when the kids are trying to sneak in late, you will know!

jmonroe1

stickguy said:

it does make a difference when your bedroom is over the garage! But yeah, if the garage is off by itself, not a big deal.

————————————————
My living room is above the garage. That room is rarely used (so glad the furniture gets to hear it. It cost enough so it should be able to do more than just sit there and look pretty).

A lot of homes today have very high garages with nothing above it other than space for storage. I wouldn’t mind a garage like that.

jmonroe

qbrozen

stickguy said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X9AU8CLcnU&pp=ygUdd2FsbCBtb3VudCBnYXJhZ2UgZG9vciBvcGVuZXI%3D

holy cow. That's exactly what I need. I have been fighting for many days trying to get my old chain opener to work with this type of torsion opener on my new garage doors. At one point, the cables popped out, springs unsprung, and the door came crashing down. Insulated 11' x 9' door is REALLY heavy! The impact bent the lower panel.

stickguy

there was also a comparison test of different brands on youtube if you want to go look for it.

qbrozen

Ordered one last night. I have myQ for my other garage so I wanted to stick with that program. Getting a Chamberlain unit. Just one to make sure it works for me, then I’ll get the other.

imidazol97

Pet complaint.
Grub hub and uber eats delivery drivers parking in handicap spaces to pick up food at Chick Fil A.

That's along with some clearly capable folks with handicap parking mirror hangers, which likely belonged to a relative.

Do I start carrying an electric drill?

A couple weeks ago a Chem Tech or similar name lawn service parked in one.

mjfloyd1

@imidazol97 said:
Pet complaint.
Grub hub and uber eats delivery drivers parking in handicap spaces to pick up food at Chick Fil A.

That's along with some clearly capable folks with handicap parking mirror hangers, which likely belonged to a relative.

Do I start carrying an electric drill?

A couple weeks ago a Chem Tech or similar name lawn service parked in one.

I saw the same as a college student picked up food at Chick Fil A. I pointed out to him that he had parked in a handicap space. He said “I’m sorry”. I replied that he was both sorry and pathetic…

explorerx4

One of my kids had a small rant about electric cars,
"What's the point of having a car you can't drive anywhere?".
They had set up some group outing to Milwaukee, about 90 miles away.
2 of the group have Tesla's but didn't want to drive because they thought they couldn't make the trip without a stop for charging.
Guessing range anxiety since any Tesla model should be able to go 250-300 miles, as far as I know.

kyfdx

explorerx4 said:

One of my kids had a small rant about electric cars,
"What's the point of having a car you can't drive anywhere?".
They had set up some group outing to Milwaukee, about 90 miles away.
2 of the group have Tesla's but didn't want to drive because they thought they couldn't make the trip without a stop for charging.
Guessing range anxiety since any Tesla model should be able to go 250-300 miles, as far as I know.

Sounds more like a math issue..

driver100

explorerx4 said:

One of my kids had a small rant about electric cars,
"What's the point of having a car you can't drive anywhere?".
They had set up some group outing to Milwaukee, about 90 miles away.
2 of the group have Tesla's but didn't want to drive because they thought they couldn't make the trip without a stop for charging.
Guessing range anxiety since any Tesla model should be able to go 250-300 miles, as far as I know.

I'd probably have range anxiety too;
2023 Tesla Model Y
260 to 330 mi battery-only
--------------------------------------------

2022 Tesla Model 3
272 to 358 mi battery-onl
--------------------------------------------

2023 Tesla Model S
320 to 405 mi battery-only
----------------------------------------
Let's say the guys have Teslas with a range of 300 miles. You should only charge them up to 80%, so that reduces the 300 to 240 miles. It shouldn't go below 5% charge that makes the range 225 miles. If you are using the heater, a/c, wipers, radio or if you get caught in a traffic jam that could easily cost 10% more....that is below 200 miles. You have to leave some charge for getting to a charging station and hope they have a working charger.
btw, Tesla over calculated their mileage figures too

A supercharger would take about an hour to charge the cars....but superchargers will probably degrade the battery if you use them too often.

It is easier and you'll have less anxiety if you go in an ICE car.

snakeweasel

@jmonroe1 said:
————————————————
Hope you kept the old pedals you removed with plans to buy new in the Spring.

jmonroe

Well I am thinking of getting floorboards for the beast.

———————————————— When you’re finished with that we’d like to see it. jmonroe

It would look something like this.

tjc78

Charging to 80% is a good practice, but if you need the range charging to 100% once in awhile isn’t hurting anyone.

Ninety miles one way with 250+ miles on a charge wouldn’t bother me at. It’s not like there wouldn’t be several chargers along the way

We drove the new electric over 200 miles the first weekend without charging it.

kyfdx

More likely the guys with the Teslas didn’t want to drive.. 😂

cdnpinhead

kyfdx said:

Sounds more like a math issue..

Math involves geometry, algebra or calculus, among other things. When people take basic arithmetic and guild it with the lily of "math" it makes my teeth hurt.

As do many other things.

kyfdx

cdnpinhead said:

kyfdx said:

Sounds more like a math issue..

Math involves geometry, algebra or calculus, among other things. When people take basic arithmetic and guild it with the lily of "math" it makes my teeth hurt.

As do many other things.

How about the word, pedantic?

snakeweasel

cdnpinhead said:

kyfdx said:

Sounds more like a math issue..

Math involves geometry, algebra or calculus, among other things. When people take basic arithmetic and guild it with the lily of "math" it makes my teeth hurt.

As do many other things.

You mean it gives you cavities?

houdini1

carnaught said:

jmonroe1 said:

carnaught said:

Very sad day in the Carnaught family. Son’s cherished 7 y.o.Boston Terrier has gone to the Rainbow Bridge 🥲.

————————————————
That’s rough. 7 is way too young for a dog. Was there an ongoing problem or was this a sudden occurrence?

jmonroe

The pup was going blind over the last 1-2 mos and in the last 24-36 hrs sleeping almost constantly, just out of it, would not take water plus rolling his eyes, probable seizures. He was the sweetest, best disposition and mellow dog.

Many thanks to you and others for your comments, condolences.

Condolences. We lost our pup (13 years old) a year ago. I haven't had the heart to get another one yet.

28firefighter

@explorerx4 said:
One of my kids had a small rant about electric cars,
"What's the point of having a car you can't drive anywhere?".
They had set up some group outing to Milwaukee, about 90 miles away.
2 of the group have Tesla's but didn't want to drive because they thought they couldn't make the trip without a stop for charging.
Guessing range anxiety since any Tesla model should be able to go 250-300 miles, as far as I know.

Sounds like someone didn’t want to drive.

oldfarmer50

These spam posts are getting to be a real problem on platforms like YT. I can’t look at the comments section without half of them being from some bot promoting a bogus financial advisor who is going to make me a millionaire if I just give them my money.

I’m guessing they have discovered AI systems which post this nonsense everywhere for little cost to them.

kyfdx

oldfarmer50 said:

These spam posts are getting to be a real problem on platforms like YT. I can’t look at the comments section without half of them being from some bot promoting a bogus financial advisor who is going to make me a millionaire if I just give them my money.

I’m guessing they have discovered AI systems which post this nonsense everywhere for little cost to them.

We don't get a lot of them, here. Most are promoting car websites on the other side of the world, so mostly useless to anyone that would have the misfortune of stumbling into this conversation.

laurasdada

oldfarmer50 said:

These spam posts are getting to be a real problem on platforms like YT. I can’t look at the comments section without half of them being from some bot promoting a bogus financial advisor who is going to make me a millionaire if I just give them my money.

I’m guessing they have discovered AI systems which post this nonsense everywhere for little cost to them.

Bogus? Uh oh...

dino001

driver100 said:

Let's say the guys have Teslas with a range of 300 miles. You should only charge them up to 80%, so that reduces the 300 to 240 miles. It shouldn't go below 5% charge that makes the range 225 miles. If you are using the heater, a/c, wipers, radio or if you get caught in a traffic jam that could easily cost 10% more....that is below 200 miles. You have to leave some charge for getting to a charging station and hope they have a working charger.
btw, Tesla over calculated their mileage figures too

A supercharger would take about an hour to charge the cars....but superchargers will probably degrade the battery if you use them too often.

It is easier and you'll have less anxiety if you go in an ICE car.

Add cold/hot weather and the range drops by much more than 10 percent. That's one of the issues with EVs - the range numbers are not exactly reliable. Something that gets better with length of the ownership - with time the owner will figure out how to interpret "range" message on the dashboard depending on the circumstances, but in comparison with ICE vehicles that range of the range (pun intended) is just too wide for a normal person that is too busy with living their life to notice that 100 miles on the dashboard just turned into 70 after going only 10 or 15 miles.